Green Lakes Trek Zemu Valley | Sikkim

Photo from the Zemu Valley with the peaks courtesy www.himalayan-info.org

The north east  base camp of Kangchenjunga in the Zemu Valley has been "out of bounds" due a rigid permit system imposed by the Government of India and Sikkim. However, if you can manage the hassles associated with getting the permits then it is one of the most rewarding walks in the Himalaya. South Col  has trekked this route twice the last time in October 2014. The details of the route are below:

October 27^th 2014 Gangtok to Lachen 2750 metres 6-7 hours

We left Gangtok on a sunny autumn morning with Kangchenjunga floating in the clouds. The road followed the North Sikkim highway and we followed the valley of the Teesta river all the way to Chungthang where the permits were checked. Travelling along this road I thought of the early pioneers like Paul Bauer, Douglas Freshfield, and Vittorio Sella who has walked along Teesta valley on their way to Lachen. We stayed the night at the very luxurious and comfortable Apple Orchard Hotel.

October 28^th 2014 - Drive Lachen to Zema and then trek Zema to Tallem 3250 metres  4½ hrs.

 The morning was cold and cloudy and the group had breakfast at Apple Orchard at 8 AM and left by 9.30 AM.  There was a problem with one of our vehicles so we walked part of the way until Zema.  There was another problem at Zema about the weight of porter loads but this was also sorted out. We left Zema at 10.30 AM after receiving Khadas for our full group.   The trail went down from Zema to the river and there were a lot of landslides to be crossed on the trail in the first two hours – the upper trail has been damaged by landslides and the current lower trail follows the Zemu Chu river. In many sections there is no trail and the path requires clambering from boulder to boulder using both hands. There is a steep section like a chimney which needs to be climbed up with cascading water spraying the trekker from a nearby waterfall.  We stopped for lunch around 1.20 PM in a clearing near the river. There is a proper trail after lunch which climbs above the Zemu Chu through some very pleasant forest of ferns and rhododendrons. Just before the camp site of Tallem, the trail passes through a large meadow which at this season had plenty of dried flowers. It would have been a spectacular site in summer. Tallem was reached around 3 PM – the walk took 4½ hours with a half hour lunch stop. The weather remained cloudy in the evening with low mist covering the tree tops.

Vittorio Sella | Mountain Photographer

Jannu from Chunjerma

Today 28th August 2017 is the 158th birth anniversary of the great mountain photographer Vittorio Sella. 

Vittorio Sella  was an Italian photographer and mountaineer, who took photographs of mountains which are regarded as some of the finest ever made. 

Sella was born in Biella in the foothills of the Alps and acquired his interest in Alpinism from his uncle, Quintino Sella. He made a number of significant climbs in the Alps, including the first winter ascents of the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa, and the first winter traverse of Mont Blanc. He took part in several expeditions further afield, including three to the Caucasus (where a peak now bears his name), to Mount Saint Elias in Alaska, to the Rwenzori in Africa, and the 1909 expedition to K2 and the Karakoram. The latter three expeditions were in the company of Luigi Amedeo, Duke of the Abruzzi. Sella continued to climb into his old age, and made his last attempt on the Matterhorn at seventy six. The attempt failed when one of his guides was injured in an accident.

The high quality of Sella's photography was in part due to his use of 30×40 cm photographic plates, in spite of the difficulty of carrying bulky and fragile equipment into remote places. He had to invent equipment, including modified pack saddles and rucksacks, to allow these particularly large glass plates to be transported safely. His photographs were widely published and exhibited, and highly praised; Ansel Adams, who saw thirty-one that Sella had presented to the US Sierra Club, said they inspired "a definitely religious awe". Many of the photographs he took were of mountains which had not been previously recorded and so have historical as well as artistic significance; for example by recording the retreat of glaciers in the Rwenzori mountains in Central Africa.

Sella died in Biella in 1943. His collection of photographs is now managed by the Sella Foundation (Fondazione Sella) in Biella. Some pictures of Sella are exhibited in the Museo Nazionale della Montagna "Duca degli Abruzzi"in Turin. [ From Wikipedia }

Some of Sella's photographs are below: 

Siniolchu and Little Siniolchu from the Zemu Valley 1899

Muztagh Towers Karakoram

Siniolchu Zemu Valley 1899

Camp Zemu Valley 1899

Glacier near Mont Blanc

Chardon Glacier 1888

In the words of Ansel Adams “Knowing the physical pressures of time and energy attendant on ambitious mountain expeditions, we are amazed by the mood of calmness and perfection pervading all of Sella’s photographs. In Sella’s photographs there is no faked grandeur; rather there is understatement, caution, and truthful purpose… Sella has brought to us not only the facts and forms of far-off splendours of the world, but the essence of experience which finds a spiritual response in the inner recesses of our mind and heart.”

Useful Links:

http://www.sujoydas.com/SujoyDas/Vittorio-Sella

https://www.adventure-journal.com/2011/02/pioneering-photographers-vittorio-sella/

Green Lakes Trek in North Sikkim

Off limit to trekkers for many years and rigidly controlled by a permit system, few have made it to the north east base camp of Kangchendzonga. I was fortunate to make two visits to Green Lakes, once way back in 1987 along with an Assam Rifles expedition to Kangchenjunga and again in 2014 leading a South Col trek to the Zemu Valley. These photographs are from the 2014  trek to this magical valley! For a route of this trek do visit http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/green-lakes-trek-in-north-sikkim/

The north east face of Kangchenjunga from above the Green Lakes Base Camp

The forest between Jakthang and Yabuk

Siniolchu as seen from my tent at Rest Camp

Walking from Rest Camp to Green Lakes

Langpo Peak

The Zemu Glacier

The Twins at the back and Tent Peak in front

Useful Links

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Forests-of-the-Zemu-Valley/

http://www.outlooktraveller.com/photo-features/sikkim-kanchenjunga-base-camp-trek-in-pictures-1007363  

Green Lakes Trek: Panorama from Rest Camp

South Col Expeditions trekked the route to the north-east base camp of Kangchenjunga in the Zemu Valley, North Sikkim. Here is a video from  our Green Lakes trek which gives a good idea of the terrain and the vews




Green Lakes is controlled by a strict permit system which some times takes months to get. However, those who are tenacious enough to follow this up usually get the permit and will be rewarded with a superb trek through pristine country.

The forests of the Zemu valley are quite amazing as are the mountains.

This was my second visit to Green Lakes after 1987 and I was saddened to see that the fair size pool of water had now dried up and become a small muddy pond.

For more information on the Green Lakes trek please visit the following links

http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/green-lakes-trek-in-north-sikkim/

http://www.sujoydas.com/SujoyDas/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-the-Ze/

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Forests-of-the-Zemu-Valley/

Green Lakes| The Forests of the Zemu Valley

In November 2014, a small team from South Col Expeditions trekked the Zemu Valley in North Sikkim.  Other than the spectacular mountain views which surrounds the valley on all sides, I found the forests to have an amazing wealth of plant life. This short photo essay shows  the forests of the Zemu Valley :

For more photos of the Zemu Valley and the Green Lakes trek do visit

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Forests-of-the-Zemu-Valley

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-/

Green Lakes Trek: North Sikkim, Outlook Traveller April 2015

The photo essay below was published in Outlook Traveller April 2015 issue.

For the full essay please do visit http://www.sujoydas.com/SujoyDas/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-the-Ze/

For more details about the Green Lakes trek do visit  www.southcol.com and for photographs of the Himalaya do visit www.sujoydas.com

The Green Lakes Trek in the Zemu Valley, North Sikkim

A team from South Col Expeditions, trekked to the north east base camp of Kanchenjunga in the Zemu Valley  in October-November 2014. Here is  the day wise  description of the route and the trek schedule:

THE ROUTE

Day 1: Gangtok to Lachen by road 

The drive from Gangtok to Lachen takes around six hours with a lunch stop at Mangan or Rang Rang Bridge.

 Day 2: Lachen (2700 m) to Zema by road and then trek to Tallem (3250 m) (5–6 hours)

The road continues along the North Sikkim Highway to Zema for half an hour. From Zema, take the trail west along the right bank of the Zemu Chu through landslide debris and boulders which can be quite difficult. After around three hours of walking, the boulders end and there is a clearing which serves as a lunch stop near the river. The trail then leaves the valley and climbs steeply through the forest to reach Tallem in about an hour.

Day 3:  Tallem to Jakthang (3430 m) (3 to 4 hours) 

This is a short day and Jakthang is reached by lunchtime. Soon after leaving Tallem, cross the Lhonak Chu on a temporary log bridge and then follow the path along the river for an hour. The path then climbs through the forest for an hour until a saddle is reached from where the trail drops for about half an hour and crosses two small streams. It then levels off and enters the clearing of Jakthang with a ruined hut which can be used for cooking and shelter.  

 Day 4: Jakthang (3430 m) to Yabuk (4040 m) (41/2 to -51/2 hours)

 Follow the trail out of Jakthang along the river for about twenty minutes. The path then climbs to a small saddle where there is an indistinct trail going to the right to Muguthang. Do not take this right fork but instead  go left and down to a stone bridge over the river which is visible  from the top. From the bridge follow the well defined trail through rhododendron forests climbing gently for about two hours with the Zemu Chu on your left. The path then leaves the river and makes a sharp ascent for about an hour and reaches a broad meadow at the edge of the tree line with a ruined double storied hut which is Yabuk.

Day 5: Acclimatization day at Yabuk (4040m)  

You can spend the rest day walking up the valley, bird watching or just lazing at camp.  

 Day 6: Yabuk (4040 m) to Rest Camp (4500 m) (4-5 hours)  

From Yabuk walk across the meadow and then start climbing to a small pass at the head of the valley which should take about seventy five minutes. From the pass the first view of the Zemu peaks are visible. Fifteen minutes later you reach a broad meadow which is Sona Camp. The trail then climbs for an hour and reaches a broad river bed covered with white stones. From here a climb across scrub and dwarf rhododendron forest for another hour reaches a clearing with some ruined stone shelters which is the Rest Camp across the valley from Siniolchu.

 Day 7: Rest Camp (4500 m) to Green Lakes (5050 m) (4 to 5 hours)  

The trail to Green Lakes is often indistinct and a guide who has trekked this route before is essential.  Leave the Rest Camp walking through scrub and moss with your feet often sinking into the brush. In 30 minutes you will reach a river bed with some streams flowing across. Cross the river bed and reach a grassy meadow in about ninety minutes. The path then climbs gently before reaching another river bed which you should follow for around 30 minutes. Another level meadow is reached and at the end of the meadow is the Zemu glacier just below,  a fascinating view point. Swing sharp right at this point and again navigate through brush/grass/scree on a faint trail for an hour walking to the end of the valley which is the Green Lakes camp.

Day 8: Rest Day at Green Lakes 

Spend the day lazing in the sunshine and watching the peaks. The more intrepid can climb the hill behind the camp for about an hour or so to come to a high point with magnificent views both towards Kangchenjunga as well as down the valley. The Zemu Gap that links the Zemu valley to the Talung valley is clearly seen from this high point.

 Day 9: Green Lakes (5050 m) to Yabuk (4040 m) (5-6 hours)

It is possible to make the march from Green Lakes to Yabuk in one day, as the trail is mostly downhill. More intrepid trekkers and porters could try to reach Jakthang on the same day.

 Day 10: Yabuk (4040 m) – Tallem

The march down to Tallem would take about five hours and drop in altitude is welcome.

Day 11: Tallem to – Lachen (2700 m) (3 hours) trek and then to Gangtok by road

From Tallem retrace your steps to Zema, which is the road head.  Have an early lunch in Lachen and then drive back to Gangtok the same day and reach in time for dinner.

It is possible to do the trek in 10 days Gangtok to Gangtok if you skip the rest day at Green Lakes.

For more photographs of the Green Lakes trek do visit  http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-/

The Mountains of the Zemu Valley, North Sikkim

A South Col Expeditions team trekked the Zemu Valley and the Green Lakes Kangchenjunga base camp in October-November 2014. The spectacular valley has an array of impressive peaks both named and unnamed and possibly some still to be climbed! Here is a black and white essay on some of the peaks of the valley.

Kangchenjunga north east spur and face from the Green Lake plain

Twins on the left and Nepal Peak in front 

Siniolchu from Rest Camp 4450m

Simvu (left). the Zemu Gap and Kangchenjunga (right)

Langpo peak to the north west of Kangchenjunga

Unnamed peaks east of Simvu

Green Lakes, North Sikkim: Kangchenjunga 1987 and 2014

The photograph on the left was taken in May 1987 and the one of the right in November 2014 from more or less the same location. The lake is now dry and the red line in both photos show how the angle of the moraine of the glacier has also changed.

In the summer of 1987, I was fortunate to join an Assam Rifles expedition to Kanchenjunga led my Major General Kukreti. I was very keen to reach Green Lakes the base camp of the expedition in the Zemu Valley.

So finally in May 1987, I made it to Green Lakes and spend a few days with the expedition, photographing in and around this fascinating valley.

At that time, I decided that I would one day bring a team of trekkers to the Zemu Valley to see this fabulous dress circle of peaks.

It took me twenty seven years to realise my dream. Finally, on 3rd November 2014, our team of seven trekkers reached the Green Lakes base camp on a sunny afternoon.

I walked up to the spot where I had photographed the reflection of Kanchenjunga in the waters of the lake. To my shock I found that the lake had dried up! Where I had seen an expansive sheet of water was now a rocky mud flat!

This was the first time in my life that I had been actually exposed to retreating glaciers and the effects of climate change first hand.

It was a very sobering experience. Other than a small muddy pool there is no water left at Green Lakes.

It is possible that this pool will also soon dry up and then the last water source will have vanished ending the possibility of camping there.

It will also make it very difficult for future mountaineering expeditions who use Green Lakes as a base camp for climbing different peaks in the valley.

The photograph below taken from a high point above the Green Lakes base camp shows the dried up Green Lake and the muddy pool to the left. The peaks are to the east of Kangchenjunga and the Zemu Glacier is below.

Ten Great Books on the Himalaya

This is my personal list of ten "must read" books on the Himalaya in no particular order!

 

In 1934, Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman made an amazing  exploratory attempt and reached the fabled Nanda Devi sanctuary in the Garhwal Himalaya. Noted mountaineer Hugh Ruttledge and former Commissioner of the erstwhile United Provinces described the Nanda Devi massif as “ a seventy mile barrier ring on which stand 12 measured peaks over 21,000 feet high. The Rishi Gorge, rising at the foot of Nanda Devi and draining an area of some 250 miles of snow and ice has carved for itself what must be one of the most terrific gorges in the world. So tremendous is the aspect of the Rishi Gorge that Hindu mythology described it as the last earthly home of the Seven Rishis. Here if anywhere, their meditations might be undisturbed”. The two climbers assisted by the indomitable sherpa Angtharkay and his team  made an dramatic exit from the sanctuary via Sunderdhunga khal.   Subsequently in 1936, Bill Tilman and Noel Odell summited the peak.  These two books now released together give an insight into the exploration of the Nanda Devi basin and as well as the climb. One of my favourites!

"It’s a preposterous plan. Still, if you do get up it, I think it’ll be the hardest thing that’s been done in the Himalayas.’ So spoke Chris Bonington when Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker presented him with their plan to tackle the unclimbed West Wall of Changabang – the Shining Mountain – in 1976. Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker made it to the summit from base camp without any sherpa support. The duo designed  hammocks to sleep every night as the sheer west face of the mountain would not provide a ledge to pitch a tent! Hauling their own supplies and equipment up the mountain, this was probably the most outstanding achievement of their climbing careers. Sadly in 1982  both climbers were lost heading for the summit of Everest on the north east ridge over 8000 metres. Boardman is an outstanding writer and this is one of the most gripping books in mountaineering history.



In 1931 while descending from  from a successful expedition to Kamet, Frank Smythe and R L Holdsworth entered a valley in the Himalaya on a wet monsoon day. In Holdsworth's words " All of a sudden, I realised I was simply surrounded by primulas. Forgotten were all the pains and cold and lost porters. And what a primula it was..  six inches high, its flowers were enormous for it's stature.. and in colour of the most heavenly French blue, sweetly scented." In 1937, Smythe returned to the Bhyundar valley and spent four happy months camping and climbing in the valley. At the end of the expedition, the team is also made a successful ascent of Mana Peak. In Smythe's words " so ended the the longest, grandest and hardest  mountain climb of our lives".




The 1963 the American Everest expedition had a number of firsts to their credit - the first climb of the West Ridge by Unsoeld and Horbein and the first traverse of the mountain as well as a high altitude bivouac on the slopes of Everest. Four climbers survived to tell the tale but at a dreadful cost - Unsoeld lost nine toes and Bishop six to frostbite. Jerstad and Horbein were lucky to get away unscathed. In  Everest- The West Ridge Horbein wrote "The night was overpoweringly empty. Stars shed cold, unshimmering light. The heat lightning dancing along the plains spoke of a world of warmth and flatness. The black silhouette ofLhotse lurked half-sensed, half-seen, still below. Only the ridge we were on rose higher, disappearing into the night, a last lonely outpost of the world." A tremendous read! 

There have been many books written about the Everest expeditions 1921, 1922 and 1924 but none as comprehensive and well researched as this six hundred odd pages thesis by Wade Davis! The book also  deals with World War I and the effect it had on the Everest climbers, an angle not explored earlier. The book throws up some interesting insights like the surveyor Oliver  Wheeler finding the route through the East Rongbuk glacier  to Everest and not  George Mallory!  For sheer detailing, meticulous research and fact finding, Wade Davis's book will be hard to beat! Highly recommended!

In 1973 the famous naturalist George Schaller accompanied by Peter Matthieson made a journey to the Crystal Mountain in  Western Nepal to research the bharal (blue sheep).  This book almost metaphysical in it journey, traces the route  to the Crystal  mountain, Shey and Phoksumdo lake and the land of Dolpo situated in the rain shadow of the Himalaya. . Matthiesen is  student of Zen Buddhism and book other than being an exploratory journey develops into a quest for the meaning of Being. Mattheisen says " Upon the path.... lies the yellow and grey blue feather of an unknown bird. And there comes a piercing intuition, by no means understood, that in this feather on the silver path, this rhythm of wood and leather sounds, ... sun and wind, and the rush of the river, in a landscape without past or future time- in this instant...transience and eternity, death and life are one."

In 1849, Joseph Dalton Hooker a British botanist accompanied by Dr Campbell made an exploration into remote Sikkim in search of the rhododendron and other flowers. This pioneering journey is told in two volumes and covers what must be the first  documented  survey of Sikkim. Not only did Hooker visit Western Sikkim including Dzongri and the Goecha la, he went from Choontam (now called Chungthang) all the way to the Tibetan frontier and then reached the high pass of Dongkya La from where he overlooked Cholamu lake and Tibet. I was fortunate enough in  the summer of 1987 to stand on another pass east of Dongkya la, the Dorji La and see a similar view which had prompted Hooker to say "... here the colourings are those of the fiery desert.. while the climate is that of the poles. Never in the course of all my wanderings, had my eye rested on a scene so dreary and inhospitable." For all lovers of Sikkim do not miss this book!

Jon Krakauer was a journalist with Outside Magazine and was sent to cover the guided Everest expedition as a part of Rob Hall's Adventure Consultants team in the summer of 1996. Krakauer summitted Everest and lived to tell the tale but other members were not so lucky. A fierce storm lashed Everest on 10th May 1996 and at the end of it five climbers lost their lives including highly respected guides Hall and Fischer. Krakauer's book which catapulted Everest from the ciy  realms of the Himalaya into the drawing rooms of the United States reads like a gripping thriller - it also dwells on decisions which can go horribly wrong at those rarefied altitudes leading to disastrous consequences. A good book to read after this is Anatoli Boukreev's Climb which presents Boukreev's account of the 1996 disaster.


In 1899, Douglas Freshfield accompanied by the famous Italian photographer Vittorio Sella set off from Darjeeling to make the first circuit of Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world.The team went up the Teesta valley and into the Zemu glacier. They could not cross the Nepal and Zemu Gaps due to the great storm of September 24th 1899. They then entered the Lhonak valley and crossed the Jonsong La into Nepal. They travelled through Ghunsa and crossed back into Sikkim through the passes of Chunjerma and Kang la reaching Dzongri and the Goeche La. Sella's magnificent photographs, especially of Jannu from Chunjerma and Siniolchu from the Zemu valley stand out even today. The book has been out of print  but I did see a reprint  it in Pilgrims bookshop in Kathmandu.

Included in" the 100 best adventure books of all time", Terray account of his climbs in the Alps and Himalayas make heady reading. He was a French climber who climbed Makalu in 1955 and Cerro  Fitzroy in Patagonia in 1962. He was also a member of Herzog's Annapurna 1950 expedition where with a Sherpa  he assisted Herzog and Lachenal down from the mountain. Terray returned to the forefront when he was part of the team who rescued four climbers from the north face of the Eiger in 1957. Possibly his best achievement in the mountaineering world was the first ascent of Jannu in 1962. After climbing Alaska's Mount Huntingdon in 1965, Terray said "If the conquest of a great peak brings moments of exultation and bliss, which in the monotonous, materialistic existence of modern times nothing else can approach, it also presents great dangers. It is not the goal of *grand alpinisme* to face peril, but it is one of the tests one must undergo to deserve the joy of rising for an instant above the state of crawling grubs." 

The Source of the Teesta Trek in North Sikkim: Lachen to Cholamu

Looking south from the high point of Dorji-La over the North Sikkim plateau

Prologue

In the summer of 1987 I was extremely lucky to receive the hospitality of the Indian Army to trek from Lachen upto Cholamu Lake, the source of the river Teesta in North Sikkim. This road is now jeepable and the army uses the road for ferrying materials, supplies etc. to their higher camps. Travel companies from Gangtok also arrange permits for tourists and take them up from Lachen for the day upto Thangu and Gurudongmar Lake.  However, it is a bone-jarring ride and to enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery, the sweeping views across the North Sikkim plateau towards Tibet and the plethora of bird and animal life in the Trans Himalayan region, this trek is highly recommended but I am sure it is permit restricted at the moment.. The trek starts in the southern side of the Himalayas at Lachen and crossed the Himalayan watershed at Giagong where it enters the Trans Himalaya. The trail them travels along the North Sikkim plateau with the plains of Tibet to the north and the main Himalayan range to the south. On the way to Cholamu it passes the sacred lake of Gurdongmar which is a place of worship for the Sikhs.

I was able to climb upto the army high point at Dorji la, which is a peak about 5650 metres north east of Cholamu lake. It was mid June, the onset of the monsoon. To the north of Dorji la the plateau of Tibet stretches for miles as far as the eye can see a brown barren wasteland.  And to the south the high point looks down the Lachung valley   and in the distance, flickering flashes of lightning could be seen far below lighting up the valley in the midst of the inky night. It was a surreal experience as though one was seated at one of high points of the globe. 

Ten Great Treks of the Indian Himalaya

This is a list of my personal ten great treks in the Indian Himalaya not in any specific order!

Green Lakes - the base camp of Kangchendzonga in North Sikkim  

Off limit to trekkers for many years and rigidly controlled by a permit system, few have made it to the north east base camp of Kangchendzonga. In the summer of 1987, supported by an Assam Rifles team who were climbing the peak, I reached the Green Lakes Base Camp in the Zemu Valley. The trek is around 8/9 days from Lachen (up and down) and has some stupendous views, rhododendrons and blue poppies, bharal grazing on the Green Lake plain and Siniolchu, that perfect mountain, visible from the Zemu glacier. The trek needs full support with tents, porters and food to be carried. It is on my agenda to take a South Col team to Green Lakes soon!

  

Dzongri and the Goeche La - the approach to Kangchendzonga from the south 
Much more accessible than the northern approach, Dzongri is an alpine meadow around 4000 metres near the glaciers of Kabru and Ratong commanding some superb views of the Sikkim Himalaya. The trek from Yuksam to the alp of Dzongri takes two days though some do it in three to aid acclimatisation. From Dzongri you can go both to the Goecha La pass following the Prek Chu river or make a rewarding detour to the HMI base camp at Chauringkhang below the peaks of Kabru and Ratong. The view of Kangchendzonga from the plain of Onglakthang before Samiti lake is stupendous especially if seen on a moonlit night!

Across Zanskar - Lamayuru to Padum and onto Darcha 
This could be the "ultimate trek" in Ladakh crossing seven passes in seven days from Lamayuru to Padum and then again  crossing Shingo-la  from Padum to Darcha. The trek traverses heights upto 5400 metres and drops to the valleys around 3500 metres. Sadly, the trek will soon be no more thanks to a road which is relentlessly being carved out along the banks of the Zanskar River from Nimu to Padum. So while the going is good I would advise to do this trek. Great views, fabulous country, the real "last Shangri-la" . Please visit  www.sujoydas.com/ladakh-zanskar for photographs of this trek.

The Nanda Devi Sanctuary 
This trek had been closed for many years in order to conserve the environment of the inner sanctuary. It is now open against a permit upto Dibrugheta - the inner sanctuary is still closed. The views of Nanda Devi from Dharansi Pass and Saini Kharak are indeed spectacular and Dunagiri dominates most of the trail from Suraithonta to Jhandidhar. Water is a problem on this route and you need a guide who is familiar with the terrain and water sources. The round trip Suraithonta-Dharansi Pass-Lata Kharak-Lata would take around 5-6 days. Full arrangements need to be made for tents, food, cook and porters on this route which can be done by several trekking agencies in Joshimath. 

Rupkund - The Mystery Lake 
The bugyals of the Garhwal are nowhere more beautiful than on the trail to Rupkund. Bedni Bugyal with its dress circle view of the Garhwal peaks is an idyllic campsite with lush meadows in the summer and monsoon. The trek would take around 7-8 days and there are some huts which could be used for shelter. We never had a tent and stayed in the huts and the rock caves of Baguabasa. It is possible to continue on from Rupkund and cross Juiragali and return to the valley via Kanol and Sutol. Porters and food would be a necessity on this route. For details please visit  http://www.roopkund.com/complete-trek-details.html

The Kuari Pass and Curzon's Trail 
It is now possible to reach the Kuari Pass from Joshimath in two/three days via the ski resort of  Auli, but, it is still rewarding to walk the Curzon trail from the village of Ghat across theKauri Pass and then descend to Joshimath. The pass made popular by the early British explorers to the Garhwal like Frank Smythe, Bill Tilman etc. commands an extensive view across the mountains of the Garhwal Himalaya. The full route would take around -5-6 days and post monsoon would be an ideal time to do this trek. The meadows between Kuari and Auli are home to the shepherds who graze their sheep and goats on the lush vegetation during the monsoon months. For details please visit  http://sadanandsafar.blogspot.in/2010/07/twin-treks-to-kuari-pass-and-nanda-devi.html

The Singalila Ridge of Sandakphu and Phalut

Though it is possible to drive a landrover from Darjeeling all the way to Sandakphu in a bone jarring ten hour journey, the walk from Manebhanjan to Sandakphu and then along the ridge to Phalut is highly recommended. The trek can be done without porters or guides as there are lodges to stay and food is available. It is possible to return from Phalut via Gorkhey and Rimbick. The Singalila ridge is one of the few locations where four of the five highest mountains in the world are visible - Everest, Kangchendzonga, Lhotse and Makalu. It is possible to trek this route in winter as the altitude never crosses 3600 metres. 

The Lakes of Ladakh - Tso Kar and Tso Moriri 

The trek from Rumtse to Tso Kar and then onto Tso Moriri  which would take around 8-9 days is one of the great walks in Ladakh.The trek needs to be done with full support-  tent, ponies, cook and food. The trail passes through the high altitude plateau of Rupshu with a lot of wildlife en route - kiang (Tibetan wild ass), marmots, ladakh pika, red wolf, ducks and geese.  We attempted the trek in late September 2008 after heavy snowfall had covered  the Ladakh and Himachal mountains. Unfortunately we managed to reach only Tso Kar after which the snow conditions which were steadily getting worse put paid to our plans. August would be a good month for this trek before the onset of winter. It is necessary to have transport at Tso Moriri arranged as the bus to Leh is only twice a month!  For photographs please do visit http://www.sujoydas.com/Ladakh-and-Zanskar/Ladakh

The Source of the Ganga - Goumukh and Tapoban 

The trek from Gangotri to the source of the Ganga at Goumukh and then onto the high meadows of Tapoban and Nandanvan is one of the finest walks in the Garhwal. The views of Shivling, Bhagirathi peaks, Kedardome, Meru are outstanding from the Tapoban meadows. On a good day bharal (blue sheep) can be seen at very close distance. It is advisable to camp one night at Tapoban and another at Nandanvan before returning to Gangotri. The trek would take around seven to eight days return. Crossing the Gangotri glacier can be difficult if it has snowed recently so a guide could be useful.

The Pin Parvati Pass

The journey from Kulu valley into Spiti across the Pin Parvati Pass is not for the faint hearted. The pass is often snow bound even as late as June/July and snow flurries and storms in bad weather makes the crossing extremely difficult. Having said this, it is a very rewarding trek for a well equipped group with guide, porters, food, tent and proper equipment. The trek from the Kulu side starting at Pulga  should take around seven/eight days. For a trek diary please do visit http://runturn.blogspot.in/2006/12/pin-parvati-trek.html

For more details of treks in the Himalaya do visit www.southcol.com or www.facebook.com/southcolexpeditions

Vittorio Sella- Mountain Photographer

23^rd September 1899. A forty year old Italian photographer is standing on the Zemu Glacier in Northern Sikkim at an altitude of around 15,000 feet below the massive north east face of Kangchendzonga. It is five o’ clock in the morning, dark and bitterly cold. His large tripod is sunk in almost three feet of snow. It has been snowing for almost four days. From the north, a chill wind is blowing across the Green Lake plain biting into his tweed jacket. But Vittorio Sella, the legendary mountain photographer, is undaunted. He mounts his large forty pound plate camera on the tripod and slows pans it away from that sheer face of the third highest peak in the world. Sella carefully frames his photograph, inserts the two pound film plate and waits for dawn. And, as the first light touches Siniolchu, one of the satellites of Kangchendzonga, Sella presses the shutter to capture possibly the finest view of one of the most beautiful mountains in the world.