Showing posts with label Gangtok. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gangtok. Show all posts

Sunday, February 15, 2015

The Green Lakes Trek in the Zemu Valley, North Sikkim




A team from South Col Expeditions, trekked to the north east base camp of Kanchenjunga in the Zemu Valley  in October-November 2014. Here is  the day wise  description of the route and the trek schedule:

THE ROUTE

Day 1: Gangtok to Lachen by road 
The drive from Gangtok to Lachen takes around six hours with a lunch stop at Mangan or Rang Rang Bridge.

 Day 2: Lachen (2700 m) to Zema by road and then trek to Tallem (3250 m) (5–6 hours)
The road continues along the North Sikkim Highway to Zema for half an hour. From Zema, take the trail west along the right bank of the Zemu Chu through landslide debris and boulders which can be quite difficult. After around three hours of walking, the boulders end and there is a clearing which serves as a lunch stop near the river. The trail then leaves the valley and climbs steeply through the forest to reach Tallem in about an hour.

Day 3:  Tallem to Jakthang (3430 m) (3 to 4 hours) 
This is a short day and Jakthang is reached by lunchtime. Soon after leaving Tallem, cross the Lhonak Chu on a temporary log bridge and then follow the path along the river for an hour. The path then climbs through the forest for an hour until a saddle is reached from where the trail drops for about half an hour and crosses two small streams. It then levels off and enters the clearing of Jakthang with a ruined hut which can be used for cooking and shelter.  

 Day 4: Jakthang (3430 m) to Yabuk (4040 m) (41/2 to -51/2 hours)
 Follow the trail out of Jakthang along the river for about twenty minutes. The path then climbs to a small saddle where there is an indistinct trail going to the right to Muguthang. Do not take this right fork but instead  go left and down to a stone bridge over the river which is visible  from the top. From the bridge follow the well defined trail through rhododendron forests climbing gently for about two hours with the Zemu Chu on your left. The path then leaves the river and makes a sharp ascent for about an hour and reaches a broad meadow at the edge of the tree line with a ruined double storied hut which is Yabuk.

Day 5: Acclimatization day at Yabuk (4040m)  
You can spend the rest day walking up the valley, bird watching or just lazing at camp.  

 Day 6: Yabuk (4040 m) to Rest Camp (4500 m) (4-5 hours)  
From Yabuk walk across the meadow and then start climbing to a small pass at the head of the valley which should take about seventy five minutes. From the pass the first view of the Zemu peaks are visible. Fifteen minutes later you reach a broad meadow which is Sona Camp. The trail then climbs for an hour and reaches a broad river bed covered with white stones. From here a climb across scrub and dwarf rhododendron forest for another hour reaches a clearing with some ruined stone shelters which is the Rest Camp across the valley from Siniolchu.

 Day 7: Rest Camp (4500 m) to Green Lakes (5050 m) (4 to 5 hours)  
The trail to Green Lakes is often indistinct and a guide who has trekked this route before is essential.  Leave the Rest Camp walking through scrub and moss with your feet often sinking into the brush. In 30 minutes you will reach a river bed with some streams flowing across. Cross the river bed and reach a grassy meadow in about ninety minutes. The path then climbs gently before reaching another river bed which you should follow for around 30 minutes. Another level meadow is reached and at the end of the meadow is the Zemu glacier just below,  a fascinating view point. Swing sharp right at this point and again navigate through brush/grass/scree on a faint trail for an hour walking to the end of the valley which is the Green Lakes camp.

Day 8: Rest Day at Green Lakes 
Spend the day lazing in the sunshine and watching the peaks. The more intrepid can climb the hill behind the camp for about an hour or so to come to a high point with magnificent views both towards Kangchenjunga as well as down the valley. The Zemu Gap that links the Zemu valley to the Talung valley is clearly seen from this high point.

 Day 9: Green Lakes (5050 m) to Yabuk (4040 m) (5-6 hours)
It is possible to make the march from Green Lakes to Yabuk in one day, as the trail is mostly downhill. More intrepid trekkers and porters could try to reach Jakthang on the same day.

 Day 10: Yabuk (4040 m) – Tallem
The march down to Tallem would take about five hours and drop in altitude is welcome.

Day 11: Tallem to – Lachen (2700 m) (3 hours) trek and then to Gangtok by road
From Tallem retrace your steps to Zema, which is the road head.  Have an early lunch in Lachen and then drive back to Gangtok the same day and reach in time for dinner.

It is possible to do the trek in 10 days Gangtok to Gangtok if you skip the rest day at Green Lakes.

For more photographs of the Green Lakes trek do visit  http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-/

Thursday, December 4, 2014

Trekking Stores in Gangtok: Climate Zone



On my recent visit to Gangtok en route to the South Col trek to Green Lakes in North Sikkim, I was pleasantly surprised to see a number of new trekking stores in the town.  One of them, I visited, Climate Zone, located on Tibet Road was well stocked and had a very pleasant owner Tashi Namgyal.

Tashi has been sourcing equipment from Kathmandu, the mecca of cheap trekking equipment and also from Wildcraft in India. He has a fairly good collection of sleeping bags, jackets, backpacks, boots etc.


I also found that he was stocking original Petzl headlamps from the US as well as Nalgene water bottles.


Tashi can be reached at 08116800921/03592-201220 and his store is open from 9.30 am to 8 pm Monday to Saturday.(karmaclizo@yahoo.com)


Thursday, August 8, 2013

Monsoon in Sikkim

The rainy season in Sikkim begins in June and lasts till the end of September. It is a time when tourists and trekkers do not go to Sikkim. However for the intrepid who is willing to brave the rain and the leeches it is an extremely rewarding time to visit! The light is the monsoon is quite spectacular and the evening sunsets and clarity of the atmosphere after the rains is beautiful. High up on the Himalayan meadows flowers bloom in abundance while yaks and sheep graze on the luxuriant grasslands! Here are some photos from Sikkim in the monsoon and for more photos please do visit http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya

Outskirts of Gayzing, West Sikkim


Forest near Bakhim on the Dzongri trail

Martam paddy fields

Gangtok

Trail between Yuksam and Bakhim

Monday, May 6, 2013

MIntokling Guest House: Gangtok

One of the better guest houses in Gangtok and located in a quiet part of the town below the gates of the Palace, Mintokling is run by the brother and sister duo of Pema and Tenzing. The guest house which was started in 1986 has twelve rooms overlooking a lovely garden rich in hydrangeas, rhododendrons and other exotic flowers. The personalised service given by the family ensures a high standard of hospitality and comfort.  Rooms are clean with plenty of hot water and fine views over the valley. To contact the guest house please do visit www.mintokling.com

The Mintokling Guest House with a view over the valley 



Rhododendron in bloom



Monday, April 22, 2013

Denzong Regency: Gangtok

On a recent visit to Gangtok, I was fortunate to stay for two nights at the Denzong Regency. This Welcome Group property owned by Thinlay Densapa of Bermiok is perched on a ridge above the Densapa house, Cherry Bank.  Commanding possibly one of the best view points in Gangtok it is only 1 km from the town but quiet and secluded. This mountain retreat  has 25 well appointed rooms all facing  Kanchenjunga.  Personal care and attention is a hall mark of this property. Very often the owner Mr Densapa makes his rounds of the hotel interacting with the guests and ensuring that they are comfortable and looked after. The young and dynamic Operations Manager,  Bikash Ghemraj spares no effort to ensure high standards of hospitality and service. To contact the hotel please do visit www.denzongregency.com.

Some of the rooms and part of the garden below

The portrait of Rai Bahadur Densapa, the father of the present owner of the hotel


The  spacious restaurant Mayal 

The lobby with large portraits of the Chogyals of Sikkim and other Sikkim memorablia

View from one of the room balconies overlooking the garden and a view of Gangtok town in the distance

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

The Skeleton Dancer of Enchey

 Today's Kolkata newspapers showed photographs of a young lama looking at his devastated home in Enchey monastery Gangtok. We hope that no major damage has been caused to the monastery. I photographed in Enchey on a number of occasions and the newspaper reports brought back memories of an event there many years ago.
Enchey monastery is located on a hilltop above the capital of Sikkim, Gangtok. I was standing on the first floor balcony of the monastery looking down at the courtyard. There was an interlude between the dances. A lama wearing a clown mask was trying his best to terrorize the children in the front rows who ran away from him at full speed screaming with merriment! In the field behind the courtyard, momos were being sold and eaten with rapid speed by the local population! Two stag dancers went around trying their best to collect a monastery donation from the crowd. It was late afternoon and the festivities were almost at a close. On the opposite hill the sun glinted off the roof of Rumtek, the premier monastery of the Kagyupa sect of Buddhism and home of the Karmapa. Suddenly, I spotted a skeleton dancer entering the arena with tremendous speed. He ran, galloped, and jumped with amazing dexterity. The crowd stared with amazement as he pirouetted around the  courtyard a number of times.  Jolted out of my reverie, I shot  a few photographs before he vanished as suddenly as he had come into the monastery!

Monday, September 12, 2011

Pang Lhabsol

Today is Pang Lhabsol: one of the important festivals in Sikkim. I was fortunate to experience the festival at Tsulakhang, the Palace Monastery in Gangtok many years ago. These are some of the photographs of the festival. 












Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Prayer Images

I was shooting a prayer service in a Wat (temple) in Bangkok last week when I suddenly realised that a lot of my photographs are linked to prayer and worship. The photo essay below shows some of them.
Wat Suthat, Bangkok


Wat Chakkrawat, Chinatown Bangkok

Angkor Wat, Cambodia 
Lingshed Monastery, Zanskar 
Entrance of Tashiding Monastery, Sikkim

Leh, Ladakh



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