Sikkim | Phoktey Dara Trek November 2020 with South Col Expeditions

Kangchenjunga range from Rinchinpong/Kaluk West Sikkim 

 The Chiwabhanjan  Phoktey Dara Trek October 30th to November 8th 2020

October 30th 2020

After more than ten months since our last trek in December 2019, a South Col Expeditions team took a leap of faith and with proper protection and sanitization against covid 19 decided to do a small trek route in West Sikkim. The route popularly known as Phoktey Dara offers a dress circle view of Kangchenjunga and three other 8000 metre peaks Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. The route straddles the border of India and Nepal. After navigating the airports of Calcutta and Bagdogra with double masks, shields and sanitisers, we started around 1.40 pm in the afternoon from Bagdogra airport. The city traffic was heavy and we got to Sevoke and the Coronation bridge in about an hour. 

 Soon the Teesta was next to us but the Teesta dam project had changed the entire complexion of the river. It was now a silent reservoir, eerie and still. Nothing moved nothing stirred. There were no rapids no noise of the river rushing down from the high glaciers making its way to the plains of Bengal. The environmental degradation due to the Teesta project will definitely have a lost lasting impact on this region and unfortunately we could not prevent it. Soon after Rambi Bazar we entered the landslide zone and the road was ravaged after the monsoon. Going was slow and traffic also heavy. Finally around 3.50 pm we entered Teesta Bazar and crossed the bridge and headed to Melli passing the Kalimpong turn off. We crossed the Melli bridge in ten minutes and showed our Sikkim Tourist registration cards at the check post. There was no other covid related checking like temperature or any other self declaration. Sikkim does not require any covid negative certificate at present. The road from Melli to Jorethang which used to be a beautiful drive along the Rangeet has also been badly damaged by landslides- it took us an hour to reach Jorethang around 5.10 pm and we decided to stop by the Legship bridge for a quick meal for of delicious momos and soup.  We left Joretang at 5.30 pm in the dark and headed up to Reshi - on our right higher up we could see the lights of Namchi. Sikkim has a very strong electrification programme and I believe almost all villages big or small have now been given electricity. Around 7 pm we finally entered Rinchinpong and were greeted by an incredible sight - it was full moon night Lakshmi Purnima and the moon was shining bright and clear on the Kangchenjunga range from our lodge room - the Ghonday Resort. In front were the twin towns of Gayzing and Pelling brightly illuminated with flickering lights and the headlamps of the passing jeeps. It was an amazing view and the clarity after the monsoon was also incredible.

Bagdogra to Melli 2 hours 25 min; Melli to Jorethang 1 hour; Jorethang to Rinchinpong/ Kaluk 1 hour 30 min.

The Dzongri Goecha La Trek in Sikkim

Magnolia blossoms on the trail near Bakhim - Pandim and Jobonu  in the background

 “Our moon was almost full.. the nearer snows were but faint and indistinct, while between their pale shadowy masses the whole peak of Kangchenjunga was fully illuminated as by a heavenly searchlight. The rock and ice were transfigured into a silver shrine, a visionary emblem of purity and aspiration. The worship of Kangchenjunga at that moment seemed very reasonable service." Round Kangchenjunga by Douglas Freshfield 1899.

                                                                                                                                          

Sikkim offers some of the finest trekking country in the Himalaya. The concept of “tea house trekking", with lodges for travellers en route, which is very popular in Nepal has not yet developed in Sikkim.  Even so, it is possible to arrange porters, tents and food with the support of local trekking companies/guides for this trek.    

Seasons: The peak trekking seasons are April-May and October-November. It is possible to trek outside these seasons, but the winter months of December and January can be very cold above 3000 metres and trails are often snow bound. The monsoon months, June to September, are wet and leech infested but this is a good time to see the flowers in bloom especially on the high altitude meadows.

This is undoutably the most popular trek in Sikkim and famed for its superb mountain views, a floral spectacle in summer, birds and views of pristine forest. 

Monsoon in Sikkim

The rainy season in Sikkim begins in June and lasts till the end of September. It is a time when tourists and trekkers do not go to Sikkim. However for the intrepid who is willing to brave the rain and the leeches it is an extremely rewarding time to visit! The light is the monsoon is quite spectacular and the evening sunsets and clarity of the atmosphere after the rains is beautiful. High up on the Himalayan meadows flowers bloom in abundance while yaks and sheep graze on the luxuriant grasslands! Here are some photos from Sikkim in the monsoon and for more photos please do visit http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya

Outskirts of Gayzing, West Sikkim

Forest near Bakhim on the Dzongri trail

Martam paddy fields

Gangtok

Trail between Yuksam and Bakhim

Sikkim: Short Day Treks

Short Treks/ Day Walks There are a number of short one day and half day treks in Sikkim which are suitable for visitors who do not have the time to do the longer treks. 

1 Rabangla (2100 m) to Mainom Top (3200 m)

Time: one day Level: Moderate

Ideal Season: October to mid December and mid March to end May.

Location: South Sikkim

Getting there and out

By Road: The town of Rabangla is about three hours drive from Gangtok on the main highway that connects Gangtok with the district headquarters of West Sikkim Gyalsing. There are SNT bus services between Gangtok and Gyalsing, which leave in the morning (7 am) and go through Rabangla. The route would be Gangtok-Ranipul-Singtam- Temi Tarku-Rabangla. Alternatively, there are share jeeps from the jeep stand above MG Road and the Tourist Office. It is also possible to approach Rabangla from the other direction i.e. from Pelling or Gyalsing by taking a bus or a jeep- the time taken would be about two hours from Pelling and the route would be Pelling-Gyalsing-Legship-Kewzing-Rabangla. It is also possible to approach Rabangla from Siliguri by taking a bus or a jeep to Namchi (three hours from Siliguri), the district headquarters of South Sikkim and then taking a jeep from there (one and a half hours from Namchi). There are small hotels and lodges to stay at Rabangla, the best one being the cute Mt Narsing Resort with its wooden cottages. on the hillside.

Route: Walk through the main Rabangla bazaar past all the shops on both sides and follow the jeepable road for about 20 minutes. This is the road, which eventually leads to the Ralang monastery. The road begins to climb and after about 20 minutes there is a sign to the right proclaiming the entrance to the Mainom Wildlife Sanctuary. The trail now leaves the jeepable road and begins to climb steeply through the forest.. The four-hour steep climb along a well-trodden path brings the trekker to the top of Mainom, which towers above the town. During he spring season , especially March and April the rhododendron display is quite spectacular. On a clear morning the hill top has a view of the peaks of the Kangchendzonga range. The way down should not take longer than two hours.

2 Damthang (1650 m) to Tendong (2600 m)

Time : one day Level: Easy to Moderate

Ideal Season: October to mid December and mid March to end May.

Location: South Sikkim

Getting there and out

By Road : The town of Damthang is located fourteen kilometres away from Namchi, the district headquarters of South Sikkim on the Gangtok-Namchi (via Temi) road. It would be accessible from Gangtok on the Gangtok- Namchi bus or jeep service and the time taken would be about three hours. Damthang is also one hour away from Rabangla and so this trek can be combined with the Mainom trek described earlier. In fact, it is better to stay at Namchi or Rabangla and travel to Damthang to do the trek as there is no suitable accommodation at Damthang.

Route: Above Damthang, overlooking the South District headquarters of Namchi, there is a small flat stretch of land at an altitude of 2600 metres surrounded by lush green ancient forest, which is popularly known as the Tendong Hill. Follow the main road from the small town of Damthang heading northeast and then take the trail through the dense forests of the Tendong Sanctuary . Historically, this has been a place of recluse for Buddhist Lamas who spend years in meditation amidst the silent peaks. The view from the top of the Tendong Hill is something to be remember as it spans across plains of Bengal to the majestic heights of the Himalayan ranges.. The climb to Tendong takes about three hours from Damthang. Tendong is a fine viewing point: to the east is the Chola peaks, to the west Kanchendzonga and the Singalila range, to the north east can be seen the peaks of the North Sikkim plateau including Gurudongmar. The way down should take about an hour and a half.

3 Hillay (2750 m) to Barsai ( 3000 m)

Time : half day Level: Easy Ideal Season: March and April

Location: West Sikkim

Getting there and out:

By Road: The Barsai Rhododendron Sanctuary lies in the south west corner of the West Sikkim district., spread over 104 sq. km, across the razor sharp Singalila Range, which forms the natural international border with Nepal. Barsai is approachable from Hilley. Hilley is about an hour from Sombaria, which is about an hour’s drive from Jorethang. Siliguri to Jorethang will be about three hours and Gangtok to Jorethang about three and a half hours by share jeeps. It is not possible to reach Hilley directly from either Gangtok or Siliguri unless you book a full jeep. A Trekker's. hut exists in Barsai amidst the Rhododendron forests at 3, 000 metres commanding a glorious view of the Kanchendzonga Range. For tourists on a shoe string budget, dormitory facility with bedding is also available. The booking can be done from the Tourism Department, Gangtok or directly at Barsai if rooms are available.

Route: The bridle path from Hilley to Barsai heads due north along the Singalila ridge with views of the mighty Kanchendzonga right up ahead. The distance is around four kilometres and being a gradual climb should take about an hour and a half. It is possible to leave Hillay in the early morning and be back by lunch time but it is more interesting to stay at Barsai for a night to see the views and also enjoy the rhododendron forests. During March and April this part of the trail is ablaze with rhododendron blossoms and is a delightful day walk with stunning views.

4 Pemayangtse to Sangacholling Monastery

Time: half day Level: Easy

Ideal Season: October to May Location: West Sikkim

Getting there and out

By Road: The town of Pelling is about six hours drive from Gangtok. There are SNT bus services between Gangtok and Pelling, which leave in the morning (7 am). The route would be Gangtok-Ranipul-Singtam- Temi Tarku-Rabangla-Kewzing-Legship-Gyalsing-Pelling. . Alternatively, there are share jeeps from the jeep stand above MG Road and the Tourist Office. It is also possible to approach Pelling from Siliguri by taking a bus (SNT from the SNT Bus stand 11.30 am or a share jeep depending on the availability of passengers. The time taken would be around 5 to 6 hours. The route then would be Siliguri-Teesta Bazar-Melli-Jorethang-Legship-Gyalsing-Pelling. There are numerous hotels in Pelling and its is usually an acclimatization stop for a day before the Dzongri trek.

Route: This is a walk from Pemayangste to Sangacholling following the ridge, which joins the two monasteries. From Pemayangtse monastery follow the main road to Pelling which will take about half an hour of easy walking. The road is flat and on a good day there are brilliant views of the peaks right across the valley. From Pelling village walk upto the Pelling playing field cum helipad and then follow the trail on the southern side of the field. There is now a stiff one-hour walk upto Sangcholling. On a clear day the Darjeeling ridge can be seen to the south. To the north is visible all the peaks of the Kangchendzonga range as well as some of the most important monasteries in west Sikkim perched on the hill tops to the north and east, including Khechuperri, Pemayangtse and Dubdi.

Sikkim: Day Walks and Short Treks

Short Treks/ Day Walks There are a number of short one day and half day treks in Sikkim which are suitable for visitors who do not have the time to do the longer treks. 

Sikkim: The Unpublished Photographs

I spent around twelve years photographing in Sikkim and during this time I built up a very large collection of transparencies. Here are some of the photographs which were not published in the Sikkim book. Thanks to latest scanning technology they can be reproduced on the web. I hope to add some more of this work in the next few months.

The monastery of Ralang in South Sikkim on Guru Padmasambhava's birthday

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Prayers outside the Tsulakhang chapel on the day of the Queen Mother's funeral - March 1987

Rumtek monastery

 

Women bathe at a hot spring near Legship in south Sikkim known as Tatopani

Lal Market, Gangtok