Lukla to Tumlingtar Trek | October - November 2023

 

The mighty Arun river at Karticke Ghat from the bridge - Tumlingtar is one hour from here by jeep

 "For dreadfulness naught can excel

The prospect of Bung from Gudel;

And words die away on the tongue

When we look back at Gudel from Bung."

H W Tilman - Nepal Himalaya 1950

After completion of our Ama Dablam Base Camp trek with our South Col Expeditions group I decided with one of my guides to head down to Tumlingtar from Lukla to assess the trek route as well as the new roads which had come in from different directions. I wanted to establish whether this route still remained a viable trekking entry or exit to the Solukhumbu region. The detailed day wise itinerary of my trek is given below.

October  30 2023

 After seeing my group off on the Lukla to Kathmandu flight, we left Lukla 8 45 am  following the trail next to the airport and headed down to Surkhe. In about thirty minutes we reached  a bridge over a khola (river). The trail then remained flattish for 15 min passing some village houses and then there was a steep downhill section on steps to reach the  junction for Chaurikharkha. Soon after we stopped at a sunny lodge for tea  around 2300 m and before us we could see the long climb to Paiyan. We reached Surkhe about 10-15 am (1 hr 30 min walk from Lukla). On the way we passed signs advertising jeeps to Phaplu and Salleri and onwards to Kathmandu.

 We left Surkhe around 10 -30 am – initially there was a steep climb to Ratabane for 30 minutes – the trail then continued to climb  in a fairly steep uphill for about an hour to the single lodge of  Pakhepani at  2715 metres which we reached around 11 50 am  and stopped again for a tea break. 

 We left Pakhepani around  12 noon  but our progress was slowed down by many mule caravans travelling both up and down to Lukla and Namche and down to Thamdanda which is now the road head for Phaplu.  We entered the first lodges of Paiyan at 1 15 pm and the main lodges near the school at around  1 45 pm - it took us around  5 hours from Lukla with stops. The altitude of Paiyan was 2778 metres where we stopped for lunch. 

The jeep road under construction between Thamdanda and Surke

 After lunch we left Paiyan at 2 30 pm and the path followed the broad trail for about 15 min and then went up a very steep trail up the hill - apparently the old trail was closed as a new jeep road was being built to connect Thamdanda to Surkhe.  There used to be along old sign on a rock  with an arrow saying Arun Valley on the left of the trail but we never saw this sign or the junction. We could see parts of this new road under construction and possibly jeeps would soon be at Surkhe in the next year or so.  This was  one of the worst trails I had been on – it was extremely muddy,  slippery and steep primarily due to the mule trains and their droppings making it very smelly as well  -it took about 2 hours of difficult walking to reach the lone lodge of Khari la 3050 metres where we decided to stop for the night at a basic lodge. 

Lukla to Surke 1.5 hours; Surkhe to Pakhepani 1.5 hours; Pakhepani to Paiyan 2 hours; Paiyan to Khari la 2 hours. 

October 31 2023

The morning view from Khari La 3150m 

We woke up in the morning to an excellent view from the lodge  - you could see as far as Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang in the Gokyo region. We had breakfast and then left around 7.20 am. We followed the new broad road for about 3 minutes until we found a short cut trail on the left through the forest to Kharte. 

 It was a good and enjoyable walk and in one hour we reached a single tea shop losing altitude steadily. From here we could clearly see the Jiri trail and saw across the valley Kharikhola,  Bupsa and the Traksindo pass on the hill.  We continued to descend and reached the solitary Summit hotel very well located at Kharte in 1 hr 20 min 2635m altitude where we stopped in the sun for a cup of tea. 

The Summit Hotel at Kharte - very good location and view

 We left  Kharte around  9 am and the  trail again  plunged down to a river to  cross bridge in 15 min, the second  bridge 5 min after and another third bridge in 45 min. From this bridge, the trail climbed  in 15 min reach a tea shop at 2525m and a mane wall. There was a stiff 30 minutes last climb which took us to Pangum 2900 m which we reached at 11 25 am and stopped for a cup of noodle soup. There were a number of lodges in Pangum all operational – we stopped at Hotel Pangum Inn.

The new jeep road and the old trail just below the pass of Pangum La towards Shibuche

We departed at 12 noon and  in 15 min met a jeep road under construction – the trail criss crossed this jeepable road a number of time climbing steadily and reached  the pass of Pangum La ( Satu La) at 3175m. There was a large scale destruction of rhododendron forest near the top of the pass due to the road construction.  -  30 min from the pass are two lodges at Tokphikharka 3000m on the road.  We again stopped for tea at Everest Summit Lodge Topikharkha.  We continued to follow the road for 10 min and then suddenly the road just ended in a dead end. Next to that was the trail and descending steeply we reached the lodges of Shibuche - Namaste and Zambala are the two lodges of choice. We reached  Shibuje at 1.40 pm altitude 2800m and had a long lunch break at Namaste as dal bhat had to be prepared. 

The Namaste lodge at Shibuche - it is now possible to reach here in one day from Bupsa and head to Mera Peak

 

We left Shibuje after lunch at 2-55 pm – there was a  knee crunching descent to 2000 m at Inkhu khola near the bridge – there were two local homes there more like porters bhattis  - we stayed there in one of them – there was  no electricity or solar. We reached Inkhu khola at 4 40 pm – we could see the bridge below us and on the  opposite side across river is Gaikharkha.

Khari La to Pangum  4 to 4.5 hours; Pangum to Shibuche 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs; Shibuje to Inkhu Khola 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs. 

November 1 2023

 We left the Inkhu Khola lodge at  7 30 am crossed the river on a sturdy suspension bridge and then started the climb steeply. We  passed a solitary house and then reach another two houses in 45 min – we were told that this spot is  called Gaikharka at 2265m. From here it was a  relentless 1 hr up to 2680m at Najidingma which we reached around 9 am and stopped for tea at one of the lodges – there are three lodges here and all functional – one of them  Najing Namaste Lodge was building a new set of rooms in cottage style.  There is no phone signal  at Inkhu Khola and also at Najindingma.  

 We left Najin at 9 25 am – the path was initially level and then climbs very steeply in the  last 30 min to the Surkie la at 3065m  in about 1 hr 15 min from Najin. We reached the pass at 10 45 am -  beautiful views over the middle hills and  rhododendron forests. 

We left the pass around 11am  - 15 min below  we passed some local houses and one basic lodge Silichong view lodge at 2960m where we stopped for tea. 

 From the lodge at 11- 30am we followed a  big broad downhill path through beautiful rhododendron forests and  in one hour reach an old chorten where a new house is being built 2680m. From here it is about 30 minutes down to Khiraule where a new Gompa is  being built. We reached Khiraule at around 1 pm and stopped for lunch at the lodge near the gompa. altitude 2540m. 

Old chorten and mane wall on the trail just above Khiraule

From the lodge at Khiraule many new roads criss crossing the valley can be seen. The road from Bung to Khiraule is operational and we saw motor bikes coming up to Khiraule using this road. 

After a very good dal bhat at the gompa lodge, we left  Khiraule at 2 -15pm for Bung. The trail and new road criss cross many times and you have to be careful to take the old trail when it appears as otherwise you will be on the much longer road - we reached upper Bung around 4-15 pm but the old lodges like  Kala Pattar and Mera Peak had vanished near the school. The new jeep road  had a whole lot of motor bikes and jeeps parked including repair shops in upper Bung  - terribly dusty and depressing- there were some porter like bazaar hotels which  also looked totally unattractive on this main street  -  there was no check post either to check the permits because we been told that we may have to take the Makalu Barun permit. With the new road the entire appearance of Bung had changed. We continued down towards the river hoping to get a lodge at lower Bung - the absence of trekking traffic had also  killed the old  trekking lodges of Bung. We found a Nepali hotel Namaste 10 minutes  from the bridge and with no option stayed there at 1488m altitude.

Inkhu Khola to Najindingma 1hr 30 min to 1 hr 45 min; Najindingma to Khiraule 4 hours; Khiraule to Bung 2 hrs (upper Bung) and 2.5 hours lower Bung.

November 2 2023 

We left Lower Bung at  7. 20 am and walked  down to river 1350m in 20 min -  we then climbed up a  beautiful trail next to a fast flowing stream all the way up to 1975m reach Gudel at  9 30 am. This was a spectacular walk with views of Bung across the valley and the gorge of the  mighty Hinku khola below. We found Gudel to be a  beautiful village with many  children going to school – the  three lodges here all  good  unlike Bung – Kopila,  Namaste and Sunrise.  We made a long stop at Gudel sitting in the sun outside Kopila lodge and having tea and biscuits. 

Typical house at Gudel with the signs to Bung and the Salpa Pass

 We left Gudel 11 30 am  for Sanam. The trail climbs to the top of the village through very pretty terraced fields and then skirts the hill and then begins a steady climb with a view of a  prosperous  Rai village below the trail. 

The village of Gudel - one of the nicest villages on the trail

 After 2 hours of steady climbing it meets the main jeep road at around 2425m. We followed this road for around 30 min to reach the small village of Nimchola  2550m with a small Gompa where we took a tea break. However, this jeep road not functioning due to many landslides but has sadly obliterated the walking trail.  Fom here in 15 min the road reached a school and here the road ends - the trail then follows the old forest path for about one hour from the school climbing steeply at times until finally we reach Sanam at around 4 pm altitude 2850m. As we entered Sanam we found a brand new lodge no name with a blue roof  nice new rooms clean toilet run by a Sherpa couple - this was the best lodge of the trek for us and is highly recommended. At the time of our visit the lodge had no nameplate the Sherpa couple were trying to find a name! 

Waterfall on the trail between Nimchola and Sanam

Bung to Gudel 2 hrs Gudel to Nimchola 2 hr 30 min Nimchola to Sanam 1 hr 15 min we stopped in Gudel for 2 hrs

November  3 2023

 After the best night on the whole trek, we left Sanam at 6am walking past a few lodges and then through the  forest – a flattish  walk and in 40 min reach a blue roof house with a sign pointing to Sanam and Chachaling. This is Wacka altitude 2712m from here the trail climbs to the pass. 

 We left Wacka  at 6 50 am and in  about 20 minutes reached a  huge rock with a sign 1 hr Salpa and and  arrow. In reality its about 1.5 hours from here. The trail then came to a bridge in 15 min at  2900m from here trail climbs steeply through the forest until it reaches the pass at 8 45 am 3350 metres.

The old chorten on the Salpa Pass

 From here there is a view towards Numbur and Karyolong – it is the watershed of the Solukhumbu district to the north and the Bhojpur district to the south. There is huge chorten at the pass and a tea shop as well. After a break for tea and biscuits we left the pass at  9 25 am heading down steeply through pristine rhododendron forest and reached a meadow with some shacks at 3050m possibly Guranse in 45 min. It was deserted. 

 We sat on the meadow in the sun for some time and then left Guranse at 10 15 am reached Bilbate 2900m in 20 min – there were a  few houses here and a local Mera hotel for porters and tea. 

The forest between Bilbate and Thulo Phokte

We left Bilbate at 10 40 am – the trail climbed up and skirted a hillside for about 20 minutes before re-entering the forest and then proceeded steeply downhill. It was a very beautiful walk to Tholo Phoktey through rhododendron forests and a lot of flowers as well. Thankfully there was no road construction on this side as yet so we could really enjoy the walk. Finally after losing altitude steadily we stopped at Thulo Phoktey 2325 metres for lunch at 12-30 pm where we found two lodges, both very basic. 

We continued down the hill after lunch through typical villages houses with orange marigolds in full bloom and children playing the courtyards. It was also paddy harvesting season so work was going on in the fields in the mellow autumn sunshine. Far below we could hear the horn of jeeps and trucks making their way down the Arun valley on the road to Tumlingtar. 

We left after lunch 1-45 pm reached Jaubari Phedi 1535m in about 90 minutes in a  knee crunching descent on steps. This was the of the trail – there was a jeepable track from here all the way down the valley. 

Sanam to Salpa pass 2.5 to 3 hours; Salpa Pass to Bilbate 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min Bilbate to Thulo Pokte 2 hours; Thulo Phokte to Jaubari Phedi 90 minutes.

November  4 2023

The jeep stop at Jaubari Phedi

We left Jaubari at 7 05 am by in a local jeep for Karticki ghat where we needed to cross the Arun river and change jeep. It was a nerve wracking 4 hour drive to Karticke reached at around 11 am. From here we crossed the mighty Arun river in a beautiful sea green colour to another jeep which brought us to Tumlingtar in one hour.  

The morning 7 am jeep to Karticke Ghat from Jaubari Phedi about 4 hours drive

Road Construction on the Lukla to Tumlingtar trek 

There are a lot of roads on all sides which have already impacted this trek. I give below a list of roads some complete and some under construction. However, I gathered from the locals that there are no public jeeps operating as yet on some of these roads- mainly motor bikes are using them. 

1. Salleri (Phaplu) to Dipli Ghat 3.5 hours; Dipli Ghat to Sotang 1 hour; Sotang to Bung 1.5 hours. Currently the bridge on the Dudh Kosi river has been washed away at Dipli Ghat but a temporary road is under construction.

2. Bung to Khiraule 45 min by jeep we found a lot of motor bikes parked both in Khiraule and Bung.

3. Bung to Cheskam – 40 minutes

4. Cheskam to Gudel – 1.5 hours

5. Kharikhola to Pangum – road under construction not complete in full

6. Pangum to Shibuje – incomplete road under construction

7. Gudel to Nimchala – 40 minutes by jeep road ends at a school soon after that

Mobile Connectivity

We found that other than a few pockets like Inkhu Khola, Gaikharka, Najindingma, Sanam the entire trail had good mobile signals both NTC and Ncell and in some places 4G signal as well. There are new mobile towers in Gudel giving good mobile coverage to that area.

Lodges

The traditional trekking lodge still exist at Paiyan

The traditional trekking lodges still exist at Paiyan, Pangum, ShIbuje, Najindingma, Gudel and Sanam. At Bung the old lodges near the school like Kala Pattar and Mera have closed down – we could not find them. There are some Nepali hotels (porters bhattis) in Bung – we used one of them Namaste in lower Bung. In Khari la there is one lodge only which is functional. 

However at other places like Inku Khola, Gaikharka, Thulo Phokte and Jaubari Phedi basic Nepal hotel exist which are not really suitable for trekking groups. The toilets are also rudimentary without running water in these places. 

Costs

The cost of meals and a night stay varied between NPR 1500 to 2000 a day ( US$10 to 15) a day. There were no menus in many of the places and basically dal-bhat. Noodle soup, chappatis, eggs, chowmein were available.  Some places did not have a facilty to charge phones or electricity/solar.

Other Trekkers on the trail

In the initial walk near Paiyan and Pangum we met some trekkers who were heading towards Mera peak but after this we met one solo trekker coming up from Tumlingtar and heading towards Lukla. At Gudel we met a Czech group also heading to Mera Peak.  Other than this there were long walks through the forests for several hours where we sometimes passed a local or two.

Future of the Arun Valley route

The suspension bridge over the Inkhu Khola

In my humble opinion, this route though beautiful does not have much of a future as an exit from the Everest region or an entry into Everest from Tumlingtar. The walk from Khiraule to Bung is not pleasant any more thanks to the road and the difficulty in finding the old trail which will soon disappear once the road becomes fully operational. Near Pangum too very soon you will be able to drive up from Kharikhola further truncating the trek. Those trekkers going to Mera Peak may continue on this route as far as Shibuche and then head onwards to Mera but the traditional route Lukla-Tumlingtar will alas not find many takers. 

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