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| The mighty Arun river at Karticke Ghat from the bridge - Tumlingtar is one hour from here by jeep |
"For dreadfulness naught can excel
The prospect of Bung from Gudel;
And words die away on the tongue
When we look back at Gudel from Bung."
H W Tilman - Nepal Himalaya 1950
After completion of our Ama Dablam Base Camp trek with our South Col Expeditions group I decided with one of my guides to head down to Tumlingtar from Lukla to assess the trek route as well as the new roads which had come in from different directions. I wanted to establish whether this route still remained a viable trekking entry or exit to the Solukhumbu region. The detailed day wise itinerary of my trek is given below.
October 30 2023
After seeing my group off on the Lukla to Kathmandu flight, we left Lukla 8 45 am following the trail next to the airport and headed down to Surkhe. In about thirty minutes we reached a bridge over a khola (river). The trail then remained flattish for 15 min passing some village houses and then there was a steep downhill section on steps to reach the junction for Chaurikharkha. Soon after we stopped at a sunny lodge for tea around 2300 m and before us we could see the long climb to Paiyan. We reached Surkhe about 10-15 am (1 hr 30 min walk from Lukla). On the way we passed signs advertising jeeps to Phaplu and Salleri and onwards to Kathmandu.
We left Surkhe around 10 -30 am – initially there was a steep climb to Ratabane for 30 minutes – the trail then continued to climb in a fairly steep uphill for about an hour to the single lodge of Pakhepani at 2715 metres which we reached around 11 50 am and stopped again for a tea break.
We left Pakhepani around 12 noon but our progress was slowed down by many mule caravans travelling both up and down to Lukla and Namche and down to Thamdanda which is now the road head for Phaplu. We entered the first lodges of Paiyan at 1 15 pm and the main lodges near the school at around 1 45 pm - it took us around 5 hours from Lukla with stops. The altitude of Paiyan was 2778 metres where we stopped for lunch.
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| The jeep road under construction between Thamdanda and Surke |
After lunch we left Paiyan at 2 30 pm and the path followed the broad trail for about 15 min and then went up a very steep trail up the hill - apparently the old trail was closed as a new jeep road was being built to connect Thamdanda to Surkhe. There used to be along old sign on a rock with an arrow saying Arun Valley on the left of the trail but we never saw this sign or the junction. We could see parts of this new road under construction and possibly jeeps would soon be at Surkhe in the next year or so. This was one of the worst trails I had been on – it was extremely muddy, slippery and steep primarily due to the mule trains and their droppings making it very smelly as well -it took about 2 hours of difficult walking to reach the lone lodge of Khari la 3050 metres where we decided to stop for the night at a basic lodge.
Lukla to Surke 1.5 hours; Surkhe to Pakhepani 1.5 hours; Pakhepani to Paiyan 2 hours; Paiyan to Khari la 2 hours.
October 31 2023
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| The morning view from Khari La 3150m |
We woke up in the morning to an excellent view from the lodge - you could see as far as Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang in the Gokyo region. We had breakfast and then left around 7.20 am. We followed the new broad road for about 3 minutes until we found a short cut trail on the left through the forest to Kharte.
It was a good and enjoyable walk and in one hour we reached a single tea shop losing altitude steadily. From here we could clearly see the Jiri trail and saw across the valley Kharikhola, Bupsa and the Traksindo pass on the hill. We continued to descend and reached the solitary Summit hotel very well located at Kharte in 1 hr 20 min 2635m altitude where we stopped in the sun for a cup of tea.
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| The Summit Hotel at Kharte - very good location and view |
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| The new jeep road and the old trail just below the pass of Pangum La towards Shibuche |
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| The Namaste lodge at Shibuche - it is now possible to reach here in one day from Bupsa and head to Mera Peak |
We left Shibuje after lunch at 2-55 pm – there was a knee crunching descent to 2000 m at Inkhu khola near the bridge – there were two local homes there more like porters bhattis - we stayed there in one of them – there was no electricity or solar. We reached Inkhu khola at 4 40 pm – we could see the bridge below us and on the opposite side across river is Gaikharkha.
Khari La to Pangum 4 to 4.5 hours; Pangum to Shibuche 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs; Shibuje to Inkhu Khola 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs.
November 1 2023
We left the Inkhu Khola lodge at 7 30 am crossed the river on a sturdy suspension bridge and then started the climb steeply. We passed a solitary house and then reach another two houses in 45 min – we were told that this spot is called Gaikharka at 2265m. From here it was a relentless 1 hr up to 2680m at Najidingma which we reached around 9 am and stopped for tea at one of the lodges – there are three lodges here and all functional – one of them Najing Namaste Lodge was building a new set of rooms in cottage style. There is no phone signal at Inkhu Khola and also at Najindingma.
We left Najin at 9 25 am – the path was initially level and then climbs very steeply in the last 30 min to the Surkie la at 3065m in about 1 hr 15 min from Najin. We reached the pass at 10 45 am - beautiful views over the middle hills and rhododendron forests.
We left the pass around 11am - 15 min below we passed some local houses and one basic lodge Silichong view lodge at 2960m where we stopped for tea.
From the lodge at 11- 30am we followed a big broad downhill path through beautiful rhododendron forests and in one hour reach an old chorten where a new house is being built 2680m. From here it is about 30 minutes down to Khiraule where a new Gompa is being built. We reached Khiraule at around 1 pm and stopped for lunch at the lodge near the gompa. altitude 2540m.
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| Old chorten and mane wall on the trail just above Khiraule |
From the lodge at Khiraule many new roads criss crossing the valley can be seen. The road from Bung to Khiraule is operational and we saw motor bikes coming up to Khiraule using this road.
After a very good dal bhat at the gompa lodge, we left Khiraule at 2 -15pm for Bung. The trail and new road criss cross many times and you have to be careful to take the old trail when it appears as otherwise you will be on the much longer road - we reached upper Bung around 4-15 pm but the old lodges like Kala Pattar and Mera Peak had vanished near the school. The new jeep road had a whole lot of motor bikes and jeeps parked including repair shops in upper Bung - terribly dusty and depressing- there were some porter like bazaar hotels which also looked totally unattractive on this main street - there was no check post either to check the permits because we been told that we may have to take the Makalu Barun permit. With the new road the entire appearance of Bung had changed. We continued down towards the river hoping to get a lodge at lower Bung - the absence of trekking traffic had also killed the old trekking lodges of Bung. We found a Nepali hotel Namaste 10 minutes from the bridge and with no option stayed there at 1488m altitude.
Inkhu Khola to Najindingma 1hr 30 min to 1 hr 45 min; Najindingma to Khiraule 4 hours; Khiraule to Bung 2 hrs (upper Bung) and 2.5 hours lower Bung.
November 2 2023
We left Lower Bung at 7. 20 am and walked down to river 1350m in 20 min - we then climbed up a beautiful trail next to a fast flowing stream all the way up to 1975m reach Gudel at 9 30 am. This was a spectacular walk with views of Bung across the valley and the gorge of the mighty Hinku khola below. We found Gudel to be a beautiful village with many children going to school – the three lodges here all good unlike Bung – Kopila, Namaste and Sunrise. We made a long stop at Gudel sitting in the sun outside Kopila lodge and having tea and biscuits.
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| Typical house at Gudel with the signs to Bung and the Salpa Pass |
We left Gudel 11 30 am for Sanam. The trail climbs to the top of the village through very pretty terraced fields and then skirts the hill and then begins a steady climb with a view of a prosperous Rai village below the trail.
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| The village of Gudel - one of the nicest villages on the trail |
After 2 hours of steady climbing it meets the main jeep road at around 2425m. We followed this road for around 30 min to reach the small village of Nimchola 2550m with a small Gompa where we took a tea break. However, this jeep road not functioning due to many landslides but has sadly obliterated the walking trail. Fom here in 15 min the road reached a school and here the road ends - the trail then follows the old forest path for about one hour from the school climbing steeply at times until finally we reach Sanam at around 4 pm altitude 2850m. As we entered Sanam we found a brand new lodge no name with a blue roof nice new rooms clean toilet run by a Sherpa couple - this was the best lodge of the trek for us and is highly recommended. At the time of our visit the lodge had no nameplate the Sherpa couple were trying to find a name!
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| Waterfall on the trail between Nimchola and Sanam |
Bung to Gudel 2 hrs Gudel to Nimchola 2 hr 30 min Nimchola to Sanam 1 hr 15 min we stopped in Gudel for 2 hrs
November 3 2023
After the best night on the whole trek, we left Sanam at 6am walking past a few lodges and then through the forest – a flattish walk and in 40 min reach a blue roof house with a sign pointing to Sanam and Chachaling. This is Wacka altitude 2712m from here the trail climbs to the pass.
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| The old chorten on the Salpa Pass |
From here there is a view towards Numbur and Karyolong – it is the watershed of the Solukhumbu district to the north and the Bhojpur district to the south. There is huge chorten at the pass and a tea shop as well. After a break for tea and biscuits we left the pass at 9 25 am heading down steeply through pristine rhododendron forest and reached a meadow with some shacks at 3050m possibly Guranse in 45 min. It was deserted.
We sat on the meadow in the sun for some time and then left Guranse at 10 15 am reached Bilbate 2900m in 20 min – there were a few houses here and a local Mera hotel for porters and tea.
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| The forest between Bilbate and Thulo Phokte |
We left Bilbate at 10 40 am – the trail climbed up and skirted a hillside for about 20 minutes before re-entering the forest and then proceeded steeply downhill. It was a very beautiful walk to Tholo Phoktey through rhododendron forests and a lot of flowers as well. Thankfully there was no road construction on this side as yet so we could really enjoy the walk. Finally after losing altitude steadily we stopped at Thulo Phoktey 2325 metres for lunch at 12-30 pm where we found two lodges, both very basic.
We continued down the hill after lunch through typical villages houses with orange marigolds in full bloom and children playing the courtyards. It was also paddy harvesting season so work was going on in the fields in the mellow autumn sunshine. Far below we could hear the horn of jeeps and trucks making their way down the Arun valley on the road to Tumlingtar.
We left after lunch 1-45 pm reached Jaubari Phedi 1535m in about 90 minutes in a knee crunching descent on steps. This was the of the trail – there was a jeepable track from here all the way down the valley.
Sanam to Salpa pass 2.5 to 3 hours; Salpa Pass to Bilbate 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min Bilbate to Thulo Pokte 2 hours; Thulo Phokte to Jaubari Phedi 90 minutes.
November 4 2023
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| The jeep stop at Jaubari Phedi |
We left Jaubari at 7 05 am by in a local jeep for Karticki ghat where we needed to cross the Arun river and change jeep. It was a nerve wracking 4 hour drive to Karticke reached at around 11 am. From here we crossed the mighty Arun river in a beautiful sea green colour to another jeep which brought us to Tumlingtar in one hour.
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| The morning 7 am jeep to Karticke Ghat from Jaubari Phedi about 4 hours drive |
Road Construction on the Lukla to Tumlingtar trek
There are a lot of roads on all sides which have already impacted this trek. I give below a list of roads some complete and some under construction. However, I gathered from the locals that there are no public jeeps operating as yet on some of these roads- mainly motor bikes are using them.
1. Salleri (Phaplu) to Dipli Ghat 3.5 hours; Dipli Ghat to Sotang 1 hour; Sotang to Bung 1.5 hours. Currently the bridge on the Dudh Kosi river has been washed away at Dipli Ghat but a temporary road is under construction.
2. Bung to Khiraule 45 min by jeep we found a lot of motor bikes parked both in Khiraule and Bung.
3. Bung to Cheskam – 40 minutes
4. Cheskam to Gudel – 1.5 hours
5. Kharikhola to Pangum – road under construction not complete in full
6. Pangum to Shibuje – incomplete road under construction
7. Gudel to Nimchala – 40 minutes by jeep road ends at a school soon after that
Mobile Connectivity
We found that other than a few pockets like Inkhu Khola, Gaikharka, Najindingma, Sanam the entire trail had good mobile signals both NTC and Ncell and in some places 4G signal as well. There are new mobile towers in Gudel giving good mobile coverage to that area.
Lodges
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| The traditional trekking lodge still exist at Paiyan |
The traditional trekking lodges still exist at Paiyan, Pangum, ShIbuje, Najindingma, Gudel and Sanam. At Bung the old lodges near the school like Kala Pattar and Mera have closed down – we could not find them. There are some Nepali hotels (porters bhattis) in Bung – we used one of them Namaste in lower Bung. In Khari la there is one lodge only which is functional.
However at other places like Inku Khola, Gaikharka, Thulo Phokte and Jaubari Phedi basic Nepal hotel exist which are not really suitable for trekking groups. The toilets are also rudimentary without running water in these places.
Costs
The cost of meals and a night stay varied between NPR 1500 to 2000 a day ( US$10 to 15) a day. There were no menus in many of the places and basically dal-bhat. Noodle soup, chappatis, eggs, chowmein were available. Some places did not have a facilty to charge phones or electricity/solar.
Other Trekkers on the trail
In the initial walk near Paiyan and Pangum we met some trekkers who were heading towards Mera peak but after this we met one solo trekker coming up from Tumlingtar and heading towards Lukla. At Gudel we met a Czech group also heading to Mera Peak. Other than this there were long walks through the forests for several hours where we sometimes passed a local or two.
Future of the Arun Valley route
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| The suspension bridge over the Inkhu Khola |
In my humble opinion, this route though beautiful does not have much of a future as an exit from the Everest region or an entry into Everest from Tumlingtar. The walk from Khiraule to Bung is not pleasant any more thanks to the road and the difficulty in finding the old trail which will soon disappear once the road becomes fully operational. Near Pangum too very soon you will be able to drive up from Kharikhola further truncating the trek. Those trekkers going to Mera Peak may continue on this route as far as Shibuche and then head onwards to Mera but the traditional route Lukla-Tumlingtar will alas not find many takers.
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