Kangchenjunga North and South Base Camps Nepal - Part II by Ashesh Ambasta

 

9/11/2024: on Selele La (4,480m), the first of the three passes enroute to Tseram. 
From left to right: Back row: Deepak, Ashesh, Pravin, Daniel & Purno;  Front row: Bhuvan & Bhakto

Ashesh Ambasta is a seasoned trekker and photographer who has done a number of treks with South Col Expeditions.  In late October and November 2024, Praveen Gupta, Deepak Chandnani, Daniel Bayer and Ashesh trekked to both the north and south base camps of Kangchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world, from the Nepal side. In this evocative account with wonderful images Ashesh shares  their experience of this outstanding trek still relatively unspoilt. 

The first part of his journey to the north base camp Pangpems  is documented here   https://sujoyrdas.blogspot.com/2025/05/kangchenjunga-north-and-south-base.html

Here is the second and final  part to the south base camp  Kangchenjunga, Oktang. 

For more photos of the trek do visit https://photos.app.goo.gl/QPHbCH7XxFn9Q29d8

The other side of Kanchenjunga from Oktang

8/11/24: Selele (4,250m): The camp site is ideally located in a bowl, surrounded by hills on three sides. A small stream cuts through the campsite. Today, there was bright sun and no wind, both welcome from the coldness of Lhonak and Ghunsa.

We began the second phase of our trek to the South Base Camp from Ghunsa. We were once again amid pine forests, which gave way to gorgeous rhododendron and juniper thickets, picture-perfect meadows interspersed with enchanting landscapes of streams with wooden bridges suffused in perfect morning sunlight.  Halfway to Selele, we crossed the treeline; the only vegetation now was clumps of grasses on wind-swept hills all the way to the third pass enroute to Tseram. The track to Selele La (4,480m), the first pass, was slippery since the rocks and boulders were under a layer of snow and ice in some places, especially on the last stretch to the pass. 

9/11/24: Selele to Tseram (3,870m): We crossed three passes on the way to Tseram. The path to Selele La (4,480m), the first pass, was slippery and dicey since the rocks and boulders were under a layer of snow and ice in some places, especially on the last stretch.

 From the top of the col, we could see the hazy shape of Makalu in the north. Sinion La (4,646m), the third pass, offered spectacular views. The slope fell away from us, plunging down to Simbuwa Khola, emerging from the snout of the Yalung glacier in the west. From the valley rose mighty snow-covered ranges playing hide-and-seek with the thick clouds that were gathering rapidly. The snow glinting golden in the afternoon sun, offering a heavenly sight.

8/11/24: Selele (4,250m): The NW edge opens out towards the Yalung glacier, providing an uninterrupted view of high mountains.  By late afternoon we were blessed with the sight of clouds rising up the valley and racing towards us.

After an initial climb, the ramble to Oktang was mainly through a valley with high escarpments to the east and the Yalung glacier to the west. To the west, we occasionally caught glimpses of the Kabru massif. 

9/11/24: From Sinion La (4,646m), the third pass, the trail plunged to Simbuwa khola, which emerges from the snout of the Yalung glacier in the east. In front of us were snow-covered peaks that played hide-and-seek through the thick clouds. Occasionally, we crossed limpid pools fed by ice-melt from the upper slopes.

 The first halt on the way to Oktang is Ramche where we had a clear and wonderful view of Rathong peak in the west and Boktoh in the NE. Kanchenjunga becomes visible in all its glory a kilometre away from Ramche to the north, the snow-covered wall shimmering in the sun. The path led up to the bank of the moraine from where we got an ariel view of the Yalung glacier, a tortuous river of ice, boulders, glacial lakes and debris, making its way down from the Kanchenjunga South. Up ahead on the ridge was a memorial of stones, swathed in prayer flags fluttering furiously in the strong wind, and several plaques of climbers who had not made it back. A sobering reminder that the mountains can be unforgiving.

10/11/24: Oktang (4,580m): The trail leads to the bank of the moraine with the Yalung glacier below us, making its way from Kanchenjunga South.  The views of the high peaks were spectacular. including the four Kangchenjunga peaks.  

While we could not make it to the south BC because of a recent landslide, we were not too disappointed. The sky was a vivid blue and the high peaks were clearly visible. To the NW, in a straight line stood the two Yalung Khang peaks, followed by the Kanchenjunga Main, Central and South peaks, surely a rare alignment of such high peaks. To the west, directly in front of us, were the four Kabru peaks, soaring straight up from where we stood. What more could we ask for?

The journey back home

12/11/24: Tortong (2,904m) to Kengsra (2,229m): The route back followed the Simbuwa khola, a steep river gorge, with the rain-battered trail causing landslips. In several places it was under a thick tangle of broken branches, roots, and uprooted trees.

Having met our main objectives and having been on the road for nearly two weeks, the mood was clearly shifting to the trip's closure. The steep descent was once again through thick pine forests. All along, the route followed the Simbuwa Khola, a steep river gorge with the trail battered in several places due to landslips or interrupted by picturesque waterfalls. In several places the path was under a thick tangle of broken branches, roots and uprooted trees, compelling us to exercise utmost caution in where we put our feet. The track took us though the Red Panda conservation area (unfortunately, we did not sight any).

13/11/24: Kengsra to Ranipul (1,728m): After a gentle descent, we reached the roadhead from where we drove to Taplegunj, the first stage of our journey back to Kathmandu.

From Ranipul we began the bone-rattling journey to Bhadrapur, eventually flying into Kathmandu late in the evening. Thus ending an unforgettable trek, the afterglow of which still endures. 

For more details about our treks and photo workshops do visit  www.southcol.com 

For photos of the Himalaya do visit www.sujoydas.com