Ladakh | Phyang to Hunder Trek across the Lasermo La by Ashesh Ambasta

2 Sept 2023: Atop Lasermo La. Left to right -- Prasad, Ashesh, and Kunsal, and Stanzin (kneeling) posing for the regulation photo, clicked by Glory! 

 Ashesh Ambasta is a experienced trekker who has been with South Col Expeditions on numerous treks including many in Ladakh. In this guest post he recounts his experiences on the recently concluded Phyang to Hunder trek across the 5440 m high Lasermo La - from the Indus to the Nubra valley.

I am sure that trails in Ladakh never fail to amaze and delight trekkers. For starters, it is possible to experience what can truly be called wilderness treks barely a few hours from Leh. How cool is that? Then, there are the breathtaking vistas. Scarps with steep acclivities rise to dizzying heights on either side of the trails, which usually follow water courses resulting in narrow – and the only – bands of vegetation for miles on end, combined with multi-hued slope surfaces, all conspiring to produce enchanted, fairy-tale panoramas.  Not surprisingly, even though the Phyang to Hundar trek was my fifth in Ladakh with South Col  Expeditions, the anticipation gripped me well before I took off from Delhi.

30^th August to 1^st September, 2023

A fitting start to the trek was a visit to the sixteenth century Phyang monastery. It falls on the way to Murubok, where the road ends and the trail begins. The gompa itself is inspiring and we were fortunate to arrive at a time when the resident monks were in prayer in the main hall.  The sonorous chanting lulled us into a meditative and peaceful repose, an appropriate mood for the trek. 

30 Aug 2023: A propitious start to the Phyang-to-Hunder trek is a visit to the 16th century Phyang monastery.  This gompa is on the way to Murubok, where the road ends and the walking trail begins.

The initial three days of the trail comprised a steady climb of a total of 18 kilometres and an altitude gain of 2,800 ft to South BC Lasermo (16,300 ft). Camp 1 was at Murubok (13,630 ft), followed by Phyang Phu (15,560 ft) on Day 2. The trail flanked the left bank of what one presumes, was the Phyang river.  The dry, gravelly path was broken occasionally by grassy meadows.  Throughout the route, the trans-Himalayan Stok Kangri range lay behind us.  

31 Aug 2023: The strenuous climb leading up from the Phyang river towards Phyang Phu.

The campsites were all picturesque, located either on the riverbank or quite close to it. The only (minor) setback was when we found that the water source at the regular campsite of Phyang Phu had dried up. In fact, both Stanzin and Glory, our two guides, frequently remarked on the gradual retreat of several water bodies and the diminished flow of water in the streams and rivers along the trail.  Consequently, we had to walk several kilometres more than planned to reach a suitable campsite. But this turned out to be a blessing in disguise since, post lunch, a large herd of bharals descended to the bank across from us and remained there for several hours, allowing us loads of time to click pictures! These mountain goats are very shy, and it is not easy to catch a sighting. Talk about silver linings! 

31 Aug 2023: A large herd of bharals -- shy creatures and the snow leopard's favourite nibble-- had descended close to the bank across from our camp at Phyan Phu.

2^nd September 2023

The fourth day dawned clear, bright, and sunny. It was our big day – crossing the Lasermo La.  Clearly, Lady Luck was on our side! Sunrise at camp was by 6 am, which was wonderful since we could enjoy a warm breakfast and make an early start at 6.30 am.  The initial hour involved a steady but gentle climb, the trail snaking through stones and boulders strewn across the riverbed. But for the cairns placed at strategic locations, it would have been impossible to locate the route. The twisting and tortuous track then veered to the right of the valley into a wide defile, which seemed more like a scene from hell – a chaotic mess of broken rock segments and huge boulders that had been tumbling down the two slopes over the years. The right flank soared up to end in an ice-covered ridge. The left flank, the side leading to the pass, was formed of gravel and brittle rock. 

Half a kilometre into the defile led to a sort of knoll, an adjunct to the main slope on our left. Given the altitude, the climb up this hill – of not more than 200 ft – was quite strenuous. In retrospect, for me this may have been the most demanding part of the trail, given the elevation and the steep gradient of the slope.

The ascent levelled to a small flattish top. From here started a steady uphill traverse to the pass, no steep slopes on the way but just a steady increase in altitude.  The main challenge was to regulate our breathing to the rhythm of our steps. The narrow track, of dry, brittle mud and gravel, was also exposed to a sharp downhill drop on our right. About 50 ft below the pass, the trail, steeper than what we had covered so far, zigzagged its way up till we crested the top. 

2 Sept 2023: The beginning of the climb to Lasermo La. Scarps with multi-hued surfaces and steep slopes rising to dizzying heights -- stunning landscapes common on most treks in Ladakh. Stanzin (in the foreground) waiting for the rest of the group, seen on the trail below him. 

The pass, with strings of prayer flags fluttering in the strong, icy cold wind, is a long saddle with the Lasermo glacier on the other side. And, as all the travel guides mention, we were on a cusp, flanked by the Indus and the Shyok valleys.  In the far distance, on a clear day the Karakoram range is visible through a shimmering white haze. 

After taking the regulation photos, we began the descent.  The first part of the downhill climb was a gradual for a couple of kilometres through the snow field of the glacier. Fortunately, because of the early start, the snow was still crisp, crunching comfortingly underfoot. Then followed a taxing trudge of a few kilometres through the ground moraine formed of ragged and jumbled heaps of rocks and boulders. This was the section demanding extra caution and care because even a momentary lapse of concentration could result in a twisted ankle, damaged knee, or a broken nose. Reaching the snout of the glacier finally was a big relief, especially to the knees, which take the brunt of the stress in such a terrain. 

The trail, formed mainly of gravel, gradually led to the Shyok river, fed by the snowmelt from the glacier we had just crossed. The walk thereafter was an easy ramble, mainly through grassy meadows and rocks bright with orange lichen. And, of course, everywhere we looked we saw tiny flowers in a profusion of colours.

The campsite, on a flat sandy area with a brook flowing close by, was a welcome sight. It had been a long day. We had started at 6.30 am and the first of us reached the North BC Lasermo La at 3.30 pm. We had covered nearly 16 kms, climbed up to a height of 17,890 ft, gaining nearly 1,600 ft in altitude, and then descended 1,800 ft to the camp at 16,100 ft.

3^rd – 4^th September, 2023

The walk from the North BC Lasermo La to Hundar Doksa, though very long, is largely through gorgeous countryside, barring a short stretch in the middle.  About halfway through the trek, the trail was obliterated by a cluttered accretion of blocks of rocks and boulders. However, the debris-covered ice surface was thick enough to enable secure footholds, as we weaved our way through this broken terrain.  The cause of this disruption was evidently a massive landslide, caused by heavier than normal rains, that had simply flattened the hillside! 

3 Sept 2023: Throughout the route to Hunder Doksa, water bodies shining diamond-bright were a welcome sight to behold. 

This arduous walk lasted for about an hour before we were once again walking along the scenic riverbank. so delightful and striking that it energises you, immediately lifts your mood and before you know it, you are smiling broadly.  The track, on the right bank of the river, meandered through lush green meadows, sodden with moisture. The water was crystal clear and sparkled whenever it caught the sun’s rays.  Wherever the valley widened out were limpid pools of transparent-as-glass water reflecting the brown slopes of the scarps, blue sky, and woolly clouds. The valley was flanked by rocky slopes soaring up majestically heavenwards, silhouetting the sky with forbidding shapes resembling fortresses and citadels.  Ahead, down the valley, the horizon was broken by high, snow-covered mountains. Every once in a while, a marmot would scurry towards its hole, disturbed from its reverie by us. An almost otherworldly feeling grips me when I am on such wilderness treks – a singular reason for my addiction to trails in remote areas. 

3 Sept 2023: After crossing the glacier and as we walked along the river bank towards Hunder Doksa, brightly coloured flowers of various shades became a regular feature

The final leg of our walk to the Hundar Doksa camp included a hairy scramble down a sun-baked slope seemingly comprising only crisp gravel and loose stones. This was one of the side adventures, a sudden decision leading to a departure from the script, that our head guide Tenzing is famous for!

It was a long day: we had set off at 8.30 am and arrived at 3.30 pm after covering nearly 21 kms, involving a descent of 3,000 ft, to 13,150 ft. 

3 Sept 2023: Hunder Doksa village across the Hunder river where we camped -- the first habitation after five days of being in the wilderness. Barley almost ready for harvest

After a well-earned sleep, we woke up to another bright, sunny morning on the penultimate day of our trek. We walked along a dusty but motorable road until we reached Wachen village and our awaiting vehicles.

So ended another memorable trek for most of us, thanks to the meticulous arrangements by South Col Expeditions. We were well looked after by our caring, patient and yes, witty guides – Stanzin, Glory and Kunsal – and Lhakpa , the cook from Nepal, who turned out flavoursome meal after meal under the most adverse of circumstances.  But to really enjoy and soak in the stunning sites, one must be lucky with the weather and hope that the trail is not teeming with trekkers.  We were blessed on both counts – bright sunny days and not a single group, apart from ours, throughout the trek!

All photographs copyright Ashesh Ambasta - for  more photographs of the trek please do visit

 

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