Sikkim | Phoktey Dara Trek November 2020 with South Col Expeditions

Kangchenjunga range from Rinchinpong/Kaluk West Sikkim 

 The Chiwabhanjan  Phoktey Dara Trek October 30th to November 8th 2020

October 30th 2020

After more than ten months since our last trek in December 2019, a South Col Expeditions team took a leap of faith and with proper protection and sanitization against covid 19 decided to do a small trek route in West Sikkim. The route popularly known as Phoktey Dara offers a dress circle view of Kangchenjunga and three other 8000 metre peaks Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. The route straddles the border of India and Nepal. After navigating the airports of Calcutta and Bagdogra with double masks, shields and sanitisers, we started around 1.40 pm in the afternoon from Bagdogra airport. The city traffic was heavy and we got to Sevoke and the Coronation bridge in about an hour. 

 Soon the Teesta was next to us but the Teesta dam project had changed the entire complexion of the river. It was now a silent reservoir, eerie and still. Nothing moved nothing stirred. There were no rapids no noise of the river rushing down from the high glaciers making its way to the plains of Bengal. The environmental degradation due to the Teesta project will definitely have a lost lasting impact on this region and unfortunately we could not prevent it. Soon after Rambi Bazar we entered the landslide zone and the road was ravaged after the monsoon. Going was slow and traffic also heavy. Finally around 3.50 pm we entered Teesta Bazar and crossed the bridge and headed to Melli passing the Kalimpong turn off. We crossed the Melli bridge in ten minutes and showed our Sikkim Tourist registration cards at the check post. There was no other covid related checking like temperature or any other self declaration. Sikkim does not require any covid negative certificate at present. The road from Melli to Jorethang which used to be a beautiful drive along the Rangeet has also been badly damaged by landslides- it took us an hour to reach Jorethang around 5.10 pm and we decided to stop by the Legship bridge for a quick meal for of delicious momos and soup.  We left Joretang at 5.30 pm in the dark and headed up to Reshi - on our right higher up we could see the lights of Namchi. Sikkim has a very strong electrification programme and I believe almost all villages big or small have now been given electricity. Around 7 pm we finally entered Rinchinpong and were greeted by an incredible sight - it was full moon night Lakshmi Purnima and the moon was shining bright and clear on the Kangchenjunga range from our lodge room - the Ghonday Resort. In front were the twin towns of Gayzing and Pelling brightly illuminated with flickering lights and the headlamps of the passing jeeps. It was an amazing view and the clarity after the monsoon was also incredible.

Bagdogra to Melli 2 hours 25 min; Melli to Jorethang 1 hour; Jorethang to Rinchinpong/ Kaluk 1 hour 30 min.

31st October  2020 - Rest day at Kaluk

1st November 2020 - Uttarey to Chitrey

We left Kaluk at around 8 am on another fine crystal clear autumn morning with all the peaks visible. Passing Dentam we saw the famous Sikkim Alpine Cheese factory which we plan to visit on our way  back - we reached Uttarey around 9 am - we went to the Police Station to show our permits and were told that we needed three passport photos - we managed to get the photos taken in a shop across the Police Station. Finally at around 10 am we were off. We followed the road pass the Police Station for about 20 minutes and then passed a rainbow trout hatchery. Soon after this there is a bridge and before the bridge on the left side is a short cut trail into the forest. This is the trail you must take to Chitrey do not continue on the main road. The trail was damp and the stones moss covered - we saw a beautiful pink orchid clinging to a tree with moss laden branches - it was a typical Sikkim forest. Within 10 minutes you come to another bridge with prayer flags - do not cross that bridge continue along the trail which climbs steadily. In about 75 minutes you cross another wooden bridge and soon after reach the gates of the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary.  The Airtel 4G signal begins to get weaker from here and eventually in an hour or so fades away. From here the trail climbed steadily through a dark forest without any sun reaching the forest floor - in about 90 minutes from the gate you cross another bridge - just before this is the only sunny patch on this section of the trail and we stopped for lunch here in the sun. The trail then makes a steep climb for about 30 minutes and reaches a sign which says Sanctuary Gate 2000 metres - I presume it refers to the lower gate which we passed. In another 30 minutes the trail levels off and enters a clearing with a large SSB para military camp which is in fact Chitrey 2668 metres. The camping site is above the SSB camp.

Uttarey to Barsey Rhododendron Gate 1 hr 30 min  Gate to Bridge for lunch 1 hr 30 min Bridge to Chitrey 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min.

Uttarey 1924 metres Chitrey 2668 metres  27 16 9N 88 2 26 E metres average time 4 hours distance 7.7 km

2nd November 2020 Chitrey to Chiwabhanjan to Kalijhar

Peakfinder - mountains from Phoktey Dara 

It was a sunny morning at Chitrey and luckily the sun hit our tents soon after 6 am so we warmed up in no time. We had breakfast in the sun and then left around 8.30 am for Chiwabhanjan. The climb to Chiwabhanjan is relentless- it goes up stone steps with little relief. In about 30 minutes we reached a spot from where we could see the SSB camp of Chitrey below and this spot also has an Airtel 4G signal. The climb continues up the steps till Chiwabhanjan is reached in around 1 hr 45 min to 2 hours - the altitude is around 3135 metres. We had to show our permits at the Police Checkpost and they asked for another set of passports photos so do carry at least three passport photos with you. The weather unfortunately had started to pack up when we left Chiwabhanjan with clouds rolling up the valley and the wind was also picking up. The trail was travelled south east below the SSB camp skirting the hill and soon we came across the Nepal Police Post with the Nepal flag flying  - it was a much easier  walk skirting the hillside with mild ups and downs passing through a beautiful rhododendron forest - I spotted the rhododendron Dalhousie  not that common in Sikkim and immortalized in Hooker’s Himalayan Journals. This part of the trail would be a riot of colour in the spring late March to mid  April when rhododendrons of different colours would be in bloom. One hour from Chiwabhanjan there is a trail junction - do not take the smaller trail going uphill but continue on the level trail going straight - the rhododendron forest continues far below to the west you can see a new road which is trying to link Uttarey to Chiwabhanjan. In about 30 minutes you reach another trail junction which was a sunny pleasant spot where we stopped for lunch - again here take the larger uphill trail don't follow the smaller trail on the left. If you look up here on the right you can see a hill top that is Phoktey Dara. Follow the uphill trail for about 30-40 minutes to reach the camp site of Kalijhar 3462 metres. Unfortunately that afternoon and evening the wind had picked up and there was white out conditions at our camp - we could not see any views and we spent the afternoon in our tent reading and staying warm hoping for a clear morning tomorrow- while we were setting up out tents at Kalijhar we suddenly spotted a Nepal Police patrol making a round of the area - they were within Indian territory which apparently is quite common for both sides while they patrol the border.

Chitrey to Chiwabhanjan  3135 metres 27 16 15 N 88 1 54 E 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs - 2 km Chiwabhanjan to Kalijhar 3462 metres 27 14 57 N 88 2 6 E   2 hr 30 min 3 km

November 3rd 2020

The night was one without any sleep - a storm with high wind speeds raged over Kalijhar - the tent poles were bending and straightening up with the wind and the incessant roar of the wind was most difficult and frightening at times. I got up a number of times to put rocks on the sides to anchor the tent and the fly sheet better - luckily we survived the night and the tent lasted the storm.  Both our dining tent and toilet tent had collapsed in the storm. The morning was clear with the wind having come down a bit and across the valley from us was the Kangchenjunga range in all its glory.  We decided to walk up to Phoktey Dara a viewpoint above Kalijar to see both Kangchenjunga and the Nepal peaks. The walk took 40 minutes and we saw the Kanchenjunga view which is similar to the one from Sandakphu but closer. Further to the west we could look into the valleys of Nepal while higher up the peaks of Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang and Baruntse were visible. It was earlier mentioned that Everest could be seen from here but it was hidden behind the bulk of Makalu. We had planned to spend a rest day at Kalijhar but when we returned back to camp the wind was still raging and we decided to have breakfast and head down to Thulo Dhap for the night. We left  Kalijhar a little after 11 am and the trail continued to skirt the hillside - far below we could see another SSB camp and looking back we could see Chiwabhanjan. The first part of this trail is beautiful with the Kangchenjunga range right across the valley. In about 30 minutes the trail leaves the ridge and plummets down into the valley through rhododendron forests. In about 45 minutes of leaving Kalijhar you reach a pleasant clearing in the forest which can serve as a rest spot. After this the trail continues a relentless descent through the forest reaching the camp site of Thulo Dhap  in a meadow with a stream running near the camp in about 2 hours from Kalijhar.

Kalijhar to Phoktey Dara 3610 metres 27 14 59 N 88 1 51 E 40 min up 25 min down Kalijhar to Thulo Dhap 2893 metres 27 14 52 N 88 3 11 E  2 hrs 3.5 km

November 4th 2020

The morning at Thulo Dhap was beautiful and clear with the mountains visible. We had planned a late start as we had a short day - it was also still with no wind a great change after the stormy night at Kalijhar. We left Thulo Dhap at around 9.25 am after pancakes and cheese omelettes for breakfast - the trail crosses the broad meadow where rhododendron bushes have been systematically planted for afforestation. It then begins a short steep climb through a forest for 20 minutes and reaches a sign saying Thulodhap 500 metres meant for Trekkers coming the other way - the trail then eases up and passes through a section with ferns and bamboo forest - the train then meanders through ups and downs before dropping sharply to a clearing in one hour from Thulodhap which is Hangeypani which does not have a mountain view.

We left Hangeypani at around 10 30 am - the trail climb for about 2 minutes to a small clearing with a chautara and then drops down for 15 minutes through a rhododendron and bamboo forest - it then levels out through gentle ups and downs and in about 45-50 minutes reaches another clearing with the view of the mountains behind which is Achaley 2876 metres.

From Achaley we decided to go further down and crossing the meadow we found on the right a small trail which goes onto Jorbutey and Barsey- if you are going to Uttarey take the straight trail in front. The trail now begins a steep drop through the forest losing altitude very rapidly and finally in an hour or so from Achaley it reaches a small meadow with a water source which is called Uttarpani where we decided to stop in the bright Autumn sunshine 2688 metres - 188 metres below Achaley and a very pleasant spot for a half rest day.

Thulo Dhap to Hangeypani  2860 metres 27 14 46 N 88 3 44 E 50 min to 1 hour 1.5 km Hangeypani    to Achaley  2876 metres 27 14 46 N 88 4 23 E  50 min 1.5 km Achaley to Uttarpani 2688 metres 27 15 2 N 88 4 41 E  1.5 km

November 5 2020 Uttarpani to Uttarey 1974 metres

It was a very cold and damp night at Utttarpani - perhaps because it was in the forest there was condensation on the tent and this resulted in the inner walls getting damp and our sleeping bags were also damp. When we woke up in the morning the outside tent walls had frozen so the temperatures had dropped below freezing. We could not dry the tent as we wanted to leave and it was packed in a damp condition. The sun came up thankfully and warmed us and we left around 8 40 am after breakfast. Like the previous day the trail continued to descend rapidly through the forest - the early morning backlight was spectacular illuminating the ferns, lichens, lianas and leaves in a translucent light. In about 75 minutes we reached a chautara on the left side of the trail and soon after that we reached a trail junction. The left hand trail is a direct short cut route which comes to Uttarey in about an hour whereas the right hand trail goes to the Hillary Tenzing Memorial Park and then reaches Uttarey walking through a scenic village route. We took the right hand path as we wanted to see the Park which had two huge gold statues of Tenzing and Hillary. From the Park we walked downhill through some very scenic village houses with corn drying in the sun marigold blossoms and white prayer flags fluttering in the sunshine. 

Uttarpani to Hillary Tenzing Park 2 hrs 20 min Hillary Tenzing Park to Uttarey 1 hr 30 min

NOTE 

As we had a number of extra days we took short walks every day but the route can be easily done in four days as under:

 Day 1 Uttarey to Chitrey;  Day 2 Chirtrey to Kalijhar;  Day 3 Kalijhar to Acchaley and finally Day 4  Acchaley to Uttarey. 

It is possibly easier to walk in the direction mentioned above from Uttarey  as other than the steep Chitrey to Chiwabhanjan section there is no major uphill on this route.

For more information on our treks and tours do visit www.southcol.com.

For photographs from the Himalayas do visit www.sujoydas.com