Green Lakes Trek in North Sikkim

Off limit to trekkers for many years and rigidly controlled by a permit system, few have made it to the north east base camp of Kangchendzonga. I was fortunate to make two visits to Green Lakes, once way back in 1987 along with an Assam Rifles expedition to Kangchenjunga and again in 2014 leading a South Col trek to the Zemu Valley. These photographs are from the 2014  trek to this magical valley! For a route of this trek do visit http://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/green-lakes-trek-in-north-sikkim/

The north east face of Kangchenjunga from above the Green Lakes Base Camp

The forest between Jakthang and Yabuk

Siniolchu as seen from my tent at Rest Camp

Walking from Rest Camp to Green Lakes

Langpo Peak

The Zemu Glacier

The Twins at the back and Tent Peak in front

Useful Links

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-

http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Forests-of-the-Zemu-Valley/

http://www.outlooktraveller.com/photo-features/sikkim-kanchenjunga-base-camp-trek-in-pictures-1007363  

Kangchenjunga and Makalu | Sixty Years since the First Ascent

Kangchenjunga as seen from above Green Lakes in the Zemu Valley, North Sikkim

It is sixty years since the first ascent of Kangchenjunga in 1955. Kangchenjunga was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of a British expedition followed by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather the next day. They stopped short of the summit as per the promise given to the Chogyal that the top of the mountain would remain inviolate. But the route from the Zemu valley shown in this photograph remained unclimbed until an Indain expedition led by Col "Bull' Kumar summitted the peak from the north east spur in 1977. This was only the second ascent of the mountain. This was the same difficult route that had beaten the Germans under Paul Bauer in 1929 and 1931. But, as far as I know, the east face direct route on Kangchenjunga is still waiting  for world class alpinists. This may remain one of the last great unclimbed faces in the Himalaya!

Makalu as seen from the Rhenjo La pass above the lakes of Gokyo

It is sixty years since the first ascent of Makalu in May 1955.A spectacular mountain it is not seen very often from the Everest region. Makalu was first climbed by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy on May 15th 1955. They were part of a  French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sardar Gyaltsen Norbu summitted  on May 16th 1955  followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the 17th May. This was an amazing achievement at the time to have the majority of expedition members summit, especially on such a difficult peak. Prior to this time, summits were reached by 1-2 people at most with the rest of teams providing logistical support before turning around and heading home. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. The trek to Makalu base camp from Tumlingtar is a route which is also not very popular in the Nepal Himalayas mainly due to the long approach to the mountain. 

Apple Orchard, Lachen

On a recent visit to Lachen in North Sikkim, I had the good fortune of spending one night at the Apple Orchard Resort. Situated high above the town, near the monastery the resort is the best place and location to stay in Lachen.

Beautifully done up rooms, large and spacious with wood paneling fits in well with the decor of the region.

Every attention has been given to small details like tea and coffee machines in the room, abundant hot water, heaters for the cold and a lot more.

Contact
www.theappleorchardresort.com
Phones:  +91 94748 37640 
Tripadvisor reviews
http://www.tripadvisor.in/Hotel_Review-g1787696-d1785126-Reviews-Apple_Orchard_Resort-Lachen_Sikkim.html#REVIEWS

Flowers of the Yumthang-Yume Samdong Valley, North Sikkim

In June 2014, I returned to Sikkim after many years. The purpose of my visit was to make the preliminary arrangements for a  South Col trek to Green Lakes in October 2014,  but after that I spent three days in North Sikkim photographing the flora of the Lachung valley. It was mid June and the monsoon had just started. The lower valley from Lachung to Yumtang which is between 9,000 and 11,000 feet had completed flowering but the upper valley especially near the meadows of Yume Samdong were spectacular. Here are some images from this visit - I am not too sure of the names so if there are any botanists they can correct me if I am wrong!

Rhododendron campanulatum var - aeroginosum  

The scenic Yumthang valley

Rhododendron campylocarpum flowers near a stream

Himalayan Blue Poppy - Meconopsis Horridula

Meconopsis Regia?

Rhododendron campanulatum

Rhododendrons in bud

Primula Denticulata

For more photos of Sikkim flora please do visit  http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/Sikkim-Flora 

Primulas below the Lhonak La Pass, North Sikkim

In the summer of 1987, I think it was late May, I walked with Brigadier Sidhu and Major B V Naresh of the Indian Army from Thangu in North Sikkim to the village of Muguthang in the Lhonak Valley. The route to Lhonak leads over the high Lhonak La pass which had a lot of snow even in  May. I remember reaching the top of the pass and then finding a sheer snow slope on the other side! Rather than cutting steps and walking down the snow slope, I just sat down on my bottom and slid down the slope reaching the bottom in record time!

About an hour after leaving Thangu we came to this  meadow at the bottom of the pass. . These primulas were blooming on the meadow.  Since that spring day in 1987, I have looked for these huge primulas elsewhere  in the Himalaya but am yet to find them  - they were perfection!

Looking at them, I was reminded of R.L. Holdsworth's comments in Frank Smythe's book The Valley of Flowers which I reproduce here.

" All of a sudden I realised that I was simply surrounded by primulas. At once the day seemed to brighten perceptibly. Forgotten were all pains and cold and lost porters. And what a primula it was! All over shelves and terraces it grew often with roots in running water. At the most it stood six inches high, but it's flowers were enormous in stature and ample in number.... In all my mountain wanderings I had not seen a more beautiful flower than this primula....."

My sentiments as well on seeing these primulas bloom below the pass on that misty May morning with snow threatening!
For more photographs of the Sikkim Himalaya please do visit http://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya

Sikkim Tourism: Entrance of Lachung Monastery, North Sikkim