Looking south from the high point of Dorji-La over the North Sikkim plateau |
Prologue
In the summer of 1987 I was extremely lucky to
receive the hospitality of the Indian Army to trek from Lachen upto Cholamu Lake , the source of the river
Teesta in North Sikkim . This road is now jeepable and the army uses the
road for ferrying materials, supplies etc. to their higher camps. Travel
companies from Gangtok also arrange permits for tourists and take them up from
Lachen for the day upto Thangu and Gurudongmar Lake . However, it is a bone-jarring ride and to
enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery, the sweeping views across the North Sikkim plateau towards Tibet and the plethora of bird
and animal life in the Trans Himalayan region, this trek is highly recommended
but I am sure it is permit restricted at the moment.. The trek starts in the southern side of
the Himalayas at Lachen and crossed the
Himalayan watershed at Giagong where it enters the Trans Himalaya. The trail
them travels along the North Sikkim plateau with the plains of Tibet to the north and the main
Himalayan range to the south. On the way to Cholamu it passes the sacred lake of Gurdongmar which is a place of worship
for the Sikhs.
I was able to climb upto the
army high point at Dorji la, which is a peak about 5650 metres north east of
Cholamu lake. It was mid June, the onset of the monsoon. To the north of Dorji la
the plateau of Tibet stretches for miles as far as the eye can see a brown
barren wasteland. And to the south the high
point looks down the Lachung valley and in the distance, flickering flashes of
lightning could be seen far below lighting up the valley in the midst of the
inky night. It was a surreal experience as though one was seated at one of high
points of the globe.