As we approached Kurseong the mist rolled in. The window boxes of the houses in Tung and Sonada were full of geranuims and hydrageas. The tea estates of Margarets's Hope and Castleton were green and lush. The fresh smell of the rain on the pines, the white out at Ghoom, the dogs asleep on the roadside and to top it all the toy train suddenly trundling past at Batasia blowing it's whistle at full throttle through the white out gave the drive it's own flavour. The entire journey done after so many years was quite spectacular not to mention the rosy cheeked kids chasing each other in front of white and red cottages with washing laid out to dry in the brief intermittent spells of sunshine.
We passed Ghoom around noon and drove into Darjeeling a while later. I noticed that large concrete buildings covered the entire hillside cheek by jowl with each other. The traffic was terrible to say the least. Large four-wheel drive vehicles like Innovas, Scorpios and Safaris dominated the roads forcing the pedestrians against the walls of the sidewalks. The fumes from these vehicles clogged the air leading to an atmosphere which was far removed from the clean, crisp air of the mountains.
Darjeeling was once famous for it's walks like the Calcutta Road, Jalapahar, Auckland Road, Hermitage etc. most of which have been overrun by continuous traffic and walking is now a chore not a pleasure.
We stayed at the Classic Guest House, formerly known as Dant Kothi. It is located just below the Mall on the eastern side and has a fine view of the valley and is very quiet.
And, what of Kangchendzonga? " The Five Treasures of the Great Snows" remained behind a stubborn haze which refused to lift during our visit. I used to wake up every morning at dawn and look outside the window in vain. The last morning before we were leaving, we saw the tips of this great mountain floating high above the town from the "Observatory round", the scale as impressive as always. After so many years it did take my breath away! Within seconds it was gone, a brief fantasy viewed from a town which we would all like to remember as still being the "Queen of the Hills". Some photographs of Darjeeling follow:
Glenarys |
Amazing photos, Sujoy ! Your words and images really brought back some deep childhood memories. Remember looking for Kanchenjunga through the mist from my Dada and Dadi's flat in Ajit Mansions (just off the mall) every morning. And the cherished visits to Glenary's, Keventer's, the Windermere hotel, the skating rink, the Planter's Club and so much else..........my father actually studied at North Point for a few years.
ReplyDeleteTook the family back to visit Darj a few years ago - I agree that it has just been totally ruined so for me it was a bittersweet visit. Will send you the piece I wrote after the trip - as much for myself as for anything else :)
i seem to have skirted around Darjeeling quite a bit.... Kalimpong, Kurseong,Gangtok, and other places on the way, but never Darjeeling. Your photographs make me want to visit. Spoilt or unspoilt, i want to visit that bakery!
ReplyDeleteThe first pic is just too awesome and beautiful. I have never been to the Darjeeling but now feeling like to visit it, specially when its so hot here in Delhi :)
ReplyDeletenice information,thanks for share it...
ReplyDeleteTrip to Darjeeling
Darjeeling is one of the best holidaying destinations in India. Visit the town on next vacation and pick from the best Darjeeling hotels with an best amenities. Popular for its sprawling tea industry, the hill station is the original home of Dorjees, Bhutias, Lamas, Lepchas, and Pradhans.
ReplyDeleteGreat post.
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