As we approached Kurseong the mist rolled in. The window boxes of the houses in Tung and Sonada were full of geranuims and hydrageas. The tea estates of Margarets's Hope and Castleton were green and lush. The fresh smell of the rain on the pines, the white out at Ghoom, the dogs asleep on the roadside and to top it all the toy train suddenly trundling past at Batasia blowing it's whistle at full throttle through the white out gave the drive it's own flavour. The entire journey done after so many years was quite spectacular not to mention the rosy cheeked kids chasing each other in front of white and red cottages with washing laid out to dry in the brief intermittent spells of sunshine.
We passed Ghoom around noon and drove into Darjeeling a while later. I noticed that large concrete buildings covered the entire hillside cheek by jowl with each other. The traffic was terrible to say the least. Large four-wheel drive vehicles like Innovas, Scorpios and Safaris dominated the roads forcing the pedestrians against the walls of the sidewalks. The fumes from these vehicles clogged the air leading to an atmosphere which was far removed from the clean, crisp air of the mountains.
Darjeeling was once famous for it's walks like the Calcutta Road, Jalapahar, Auckland Road, Hermitage etc. most of which have been overrun by continuous traffic and walking is now a chore not a pleasure.
We stayed at the Classic Guest House, formerly known as Dant Kothi. It is located just below the Mall on the eastern side and has a fine view of the valley and is very quiet.
And, what of Kangchendzonga? " The Five Treasures of the Great Snows" remained behind a stubborn haze which refused to lift during our visit. I used to wake up every morning at dawn and look outside the window in vain. The last morning before we were leaving, we saw the tips of this great mountain floating high above the town from the "Observatory round", the scale as impressive as always. After so many years it did take my breath away! Within seconds it was gone, a brief fantasy viewed from a town which we would all like to remember as still being the "Queen of the Hills". Some photographs of Darjeeling follow:
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Kangchendzonga from Sandakphu on a November afternoon |
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North Point, St Josephs College, Darjeeling |
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Mendang opposite the Classic Guest House |
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Lloyds Botanical Gardens |
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Glenarys |
