Namche to Gokyo to Phortse to Pangboche to Namche October 2021
Route details and timings for this route is below
October 21 Namche to Dole
We left Namche on a sunny clear morning after
the rain with all the peaks visible - the broad trail mostly level with a few
ups and downs was a lovely walk with all the peaks from Taboche to Thamserku
visible including Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We reached the beautiful Ama
Dablam Lodge at Kyanjuma in about less than two hours with many photography
stops on the way. After a tea break at the lodge we started out for Mong la.
Within five minutes there was a sign posted trail junction - the upper trail
went to Gokyo and the lower trail to Everest Base Camp. A new trail had been
constructed in the initial part of the climb with proper hand railings and
steps - this steep climb took about half an hour with mesmerizing mountain
views all around. On reaching the top there was a small resting spot from where
Mongla could be seen as well as the trail leading upwards. We followed the
trail climbing uphill contouring the hillside and had great mountain views all
the way. We stopped for lunch at the Hilltop lodge in Mongla. After lunch we
started out on the rapid descent to Phortse Tenga. The trail dropped fairly
sharply for the first 20 minutes before easing out into a gentler descent - in
about an hour from Mongla we came to the two lodges of Phortse Tenga and the
trail diversion which was marked - the upper trail led to Dole and the lower
trail led to Phortse. The Dole trail initially climbed very gently and in about
20 minutes reached the Dole National Park check post where the permits are
checked. Soon after the trail crosses a waterfall and then begins to climb
steeply fir about 30 minutes before the trail levels off and reaches a resting spot
with a stone bench which provides a welcome break. After this the climb
continues through the rhododendron forest. Across the valley the village of
Phortse is your constant companion in about an hour another waterfall is
reached and ahead you can see the trail contouring up the hillside. Finally the
trail skirts the hillside takes a turn and the lodges of Dole come suddenly
into view.
Namche 3450m to Kyanjuma 3615m 27 49 22N 86 43
52E 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs Kyanjuma to Mongla 3980m 27 50 22N 86 44 12E 2 hrs
Mongla to Phortse Tenga 1 hour to 1 hour 15 min Phortse Tenga 3650m to Dole
4110m 27 52 4N 86 43 50 E
2 hrs to 2 hrs 15 min
October 22nd Dole to Macchermo
We woke up to another clear morning - there was
frost outside so the temperature must have fallen below zero Celsius- the
Everest link wifi connection was not working and the Ncell connection without
data was working on top of the hill above Dole. We started out around 8 40 am
and immediately started climbing the hill above Dole. In around 20 minutes we
reached a small pass with prayer flags - the trail continues to climb up and
reaches another small pass ahead you can see the Mountain View Hill Top Lodge
Lhabharma which is reached in another 30 minutes - all around are dazzling
views of the mountains in a 360 degree circle. From the lodge pass another two
small houses and then after the bend see the long broad flattish trail for
about 30 minutes - turn the last bend and see below the grazing flats of Luza
with the blue roofs of the Kangtega View Lodge a good tea stop. From Luza cross
the grazing flats and climb up the hill - the trail again flattens out until
there is a final climb to a small pass and you can see the lodges of Macchermo
below.
Dole to Lhabharma 4280m 27 52 30N 86 4330E 1 hr
to 1 hr 15 min Lhabarma to Luza 4320m 27 53 37N 86 43 6E 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min
Luza to Machermo 4450m 27 54 11N 86 42 55E 45 min to 1 hr
October 23 Machhermo to Gokyo
We left Machermo around 8 am on another very
clear morning - the path immediately climbed steeply to a small pass in around
20 minutes where there was another 360 degree view of the mountains - the path
went downhill for a while and the lodges of Pangka could be seen ahead. In
about 30 minutes we came to a small meadow - both the trails up and flat along
the valley lead to Pangka. We stopped at the newly built Cosy Inn which also
had rooms for a night stay and was unlikely to be very busy as Pangka is
usually a tea or lunch stop. 15 minutes after leaving Pangka there is a sign
post marking the trail on the other bank of the river to Phortse. The trail
then climbed gently in around 30-40 minutes to a resting spot marked as Nigere.
From here the real climbing started up a narrow staircase and a rocky chimney
for about 30 minutes until it reached a metal bridge across the foaming river.
There is a one bar Ncell signal right in the middle of the bridge which
disappeared as soon as we crossed the bridge. From here the trail leveled out
and within ten minutes reached the first lake of Gokyo which often has excellent
reflections of Cho Oyu in the still greenish waters. From the first lake the
path continued to wind up the valley and the second lake soon comes into view -
from here in another 45 minutes you reach the third lake and the lodges of
Gokyo with the stupendous views.
Machhermo to Pangka 4500m 27 55 30N 86 42 31E 45
min to 1 hr Pangka to Ngire 4510m 30 minutes Ngire to First Lake 4700m 27 55
53N 86 42 27E 45 min First Lake to Second Lake 4734m 27 57 02N 86 41 58E 30 min
Second Lake to Gokyo 4740m 45 min.
October 25th Gokyo to Phortse - long day
We left Gokyo early by 7 15 am - it was another
clear and crisp day - the walk down to the second lake took a leisurely 30
minutes photographing along the way and then in another 20 minutes we reached
the first lake - from here to the small bridge in 15 min. Here we managed to
get a one bar Ncell signal just possible to make a few calls. The walk downhill
followed on the steep staircase which took around another 30 minutes to the
spot signposted as Ngire. We then reached the signposted marked Phortse with a
bridge across the Imja Khola below - cross the bridge and follow the trail to
the blue lodge of Na which is seen across the river in about 30 minutes from
Ngire.
We took a tea break at the Cho La view lodge at
Na (the sign has disappeared) and then started out for Thare. The trail
initially remained fairly level across a very pleasant across a scrub forest in
autumn colours of red, orange, yellow and streams flowing across - this part of
the walk took around 30 minutes after which the trail started climbing up to
the Nima Friendship Lodge at Thare which was closed in about 90 minutes from
Na. By now it was almost noon so we decided to have our packed lunch. We had
not met a single local or Trekker on this trail so far and we would not meet
until we reached the outskirts of Phortse. After lunch we started the steep
climb to Thore - it was mostly uphill and took around 45 minutes to get to the
Kangtega View Lodge which was open in Thore. We stopped here for a welcome
break and a cup of tea. The trail then started meandering around the hill side
- it was a long and tiring walk of around 90 minutes before we reached the big
stupa above Phortse. Towards the end the trail had also been dug up so walking
was difficult. From here the trail followed the downhill path all the way to
the village of Phortse.
Gokyo to Na 2 hrs to 2 hrs 30 min Na to Thare 90
min Thare to Thore 45 min Thore to Big Stupa 90 min Big Stupa to Phortse 90 min
to 2 hrs.
Na 4370 m 27 55 0 N 86 42 59 E Thare 4300m 27 53
38N 86 43 38E Thore 4381m 27 53 11 N 86 43 58E Phortse 3825m 27 50 43N 86 44
56E
October 26th Phortse to Pangboche by the high route
We left late around 10 30 am as it was a short
day and the clients were very tired after the earlier long walk to Phortse. The
trail climbed up to the top of the village and then turned right climbing
steadily to the top of a small pass from where Tengboche monastery and the
lodges of Devoche could be seen. It then descended for some time before making
a very steep ascent on a stone staircase which again reached a high pint from
where the entire Imja valley, the village of Pangboche and Everest, the Lhotse
wall and Ama Dablam could be seen. From this high point the trail dropped
gradually circling the hill side in a number of bends before dropping down to
the lodges of Upper Pangboche- the monastery of Pangboche is on the way and
we'd visited it to find a prayer service in progress - the monk showed us the
famous Yeti scalp which was lodged in the monastery in safe custody. Ten
minutes from the monastery we descended to the lodges of lower Pangboche.
Phortse to Pangboche 3950metres 27 51 22 N 86 47
34E 3 hours 30 min to 4 hours
October 27 Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp 4500 metres
The information available on Ama Dablam Base
Camp on the Internet has mostly been sketchy and so I decided to go up with my
group to see the base camp and check the route and the new lodges built there.
We left Pangboche around 7 15 am walked to the end of the village and passed
the last Sonam Lodge. a little ahead of the Sonam Lodge there is a path going
down to the river - take this path and in 5-10 minutes you are down to a bridge
across the Imja Khola - cross the bridge and then start climbing steadily uphill
for 30-45 minutes to reach the ridge line - there are some multiple trails but
the general direction is uphill. Reach the ridge and swing left on a flattish
trail for about 15-20 minutes. This trail then drops into a broad meadow where
we found yaks grazing and a view to the west of Pumori on the Khumbu Glacier.
From this point Pheriche could also be seen. The trail then begins another long
climb turning to the right for about an hour mostly with rocks and boulders -
it crests another ridge line where you find a sign on a rock saying Lodge 5
min. It is actually 20-30 minutes from here to the lodges! Follow the trail
which again swings right and there are large white arrows on the rocks
indicating the route. Finally turn the last bend and on a meadow there are two
lodges and the tents of the Base Camp. The altitude reads 4500 metres - a climb
of approximately 550 metres from Pangboche which could take anything between
2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on your climbing speed.
There are two new lodges at the Base Camp - The
older Ama Dablam Base Camp lodge and the new Himalaya Lodge. Both the lodges
would be open in the spring and autumn season and would possibly close in
winter mid December to early March and again in the monsoon months June to mid
September. If you trek to the base camp it makes sense to stay the night to get
a chance to see the spectacular sunset views on Ama Dablam as well as Taboche
across the valley. You can always check in Pangboche if the lodges are open as
the lodge owners are from Pangboche.
Walking 15-20 minutes uphill from the lodges you
come to another flattish meadow where there are more tents - the main base camp
from where the climbers attempt the peak. While we were there Seven Summit
Treks had a group on the mountain and we could see the climbers through the
telescope moving very slowly on the final summit ridge.
Ama Dablam Base Camp is a good add on to an
Everest trek and it also helps acclimatisation. If you spend one night here you
can skip the extra night at Pheriche or Dingboche. The way down would be 2-3
hours depending on your downhill skills and can be hard on the knees.
Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp 4500 metres
2.5 to 3.5 hours up and 2 to 3 hours down.
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