This review was first published in The Hindu on August 7th 2021
In 1921, around
seventy odd years later, the British launched the first expedition to find the
route to the mountain. But, the extraordinary
events which took place in between remain largely unknown, other than through
some books on Tibet, The Great Game and early Himalayan expeditions.
In his book, Storti brings this all together and conjures up a racy narrative with larger than life characters that tells this story starting with an audacious mission to Lhasa in 1903 by Sir Francis Younghusband which in fact unlocked the key for the British to claim Everest as their own mountain.
In 1893 Younghusband and Charles Bruce were walking
across the polo grounds in Chitral on the North West Frontier when they
conjured up a plan to sneak into Tibet and explore the region around Everest.
This plan finally saw the light of day in 1921.
Lord Curzon, who
arrived in India in 1899 as Viceroy, was instrumental in the sending the
Younghusband Mission to Lhasa. Curzon remained obsessed with Tibet and was a
part of Great Game between Britain and Russia. He was determined to reach Tibet
before the Russians did. In 1904 Younghusband finally entered Lhasa, but not
before the British troops had mowed down hapless Tibetans using machine gun fire
at a spot called Guru, south of Gyantse.
From 1904 to 1913, Storti chronicles the
explorations of Cecil Rawling, John Noel and Alexander Kellas, three of the
most important players in the early history of Everest.
Rawling was
sent by Younghusband to cross and map eight hundred miles of Tibet in 1905. Rawling and map maker Charles Ryder, of the
Survey of India, crossed a 5000 metre pass, the Kura La, and were possibly the
first Westerners to see Everest “Towering up thousands of feet, a glittering
pinnacle of snow… a giant amongst pygmies.” The expedition then dropped down to
the Tingri plains which would later become the main route to the base of the
mountain.
Captain John
Noel, a gifted photographer and cinematographer, decided in 1913 without
permission of the Lhasa Government to leave Darjeeling and search for Everest.
Relying on the maps of Sarat Chandra Das, one of the Pundits, who had been into
Tibet in 1887 and 1891, Noel entered Tibet through the Choten Nyima La in north
Sikkim but was unfortunately stopped by the Dzongpen of Tinki and his men but
not before Noel got a tantalizing view of Mount Everest around forty miles
away.
Alexander Kellas, the reticent Scottish
chemist, has always been overshadowed by
likes of Mallory, Bruce and Norton, but Everest historian Walt
Unsworth wrote of Kellas “in terms of Himalayan experience he was the greatest
of all.”
He undertook eight Himalayan expeditions
between 1907 and 1921 and made five first ascents of peaks in north Sikkim including Pauhunri, Kangchenjau and Chomiomo, assisted solely by sherpa porters.
But the most fascinating part of Kellas’s journey
was his photographs from the Kharta and Kama valleys east of Everest in 1913
even though there is no official record of his entering Tibet. These
photographs were presented in a Royal Geographical Society lecture by John Noel
in 1919 which fired the British imagination and set the ball rolling for the
first expedition to Everest. Charles
Bell, who was British India’s “de-facto ambassador to Tibet”, managed to convince the 13th Dalai
Lama to grant permission to the British.
Storti’s fascinating tale now comes to a climax with
the Everest Reconnaissance Expedition of 1921. As George Mallory had said “ It
would be necessary in the first place to find the mountain.”
The 1921 expedition did just that leaving Darjeeling
on a wet May morning, entering leech infested and rain drenched Sikkim,
crossing the Jelep La into the cool dry air of the Chumbi valley in Tibet, and
travelled north and then west to Khamba Dzong, Tingri and finally up the
Rongbuk valley. From this now famous viewpoint, Mallory and Bullock were the
first Westerners to see that huge
uninterrupted view of the north face of Everest. In Mallory’s words “The
highest of the world’s great mountains… has to make but a single gesture of its
magnificence to be lord of all.”
In the final
chapter, Storti brings to life the oft overlooked role of Oliver Wheeler, the
map maker, who discovered the approach to the north col of Everest, 7020m, through the East Rongbuk
Glacier, which was the highest point reached by the expedition.
Immaculately researched and presented, The Hunt for Mount Everest, which was
forty years in the making, fills a valuable gap in the early history of Everest
and is recommended reading for all Everest historians and aficionados.
For more photographs of Everest and other peaks in the Himalaya do visit www.sujoydas.com
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