In the late seventies, Lhotse was the first of his 8000 metre peaks and his memory from the summit looking down on the great South Wall remained with him for the rest of his life.
Jerzy completed his climbs of all the 8000 metre peaks within eight years - no mean feat! His notable 8000 metre ascents included a winter ascent of Kanchenjunga and a new route on Manaslu.
But the unclimbed south face of Lhotse continued to haunt him and finally in October 1989 he attempted the wall. Sadly, at around 8300 metres a second-hand rope he had picked up in a market in Kathmandu snapped during the climb plunging him to his death.
His life story is available in this fascinating book My Vertical World http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0898863449/everestnews
The memorial at Bibre in the Imja valley in the shadow of the Lhotse wall tells the story of Kukuczka and the other south face heroes.
The south wall of Lhotse as seen from Pangboche after a evening snow storm. The houses of Shomare can be seen in the foreground |
Gorgeous page. I love how you cut out the stamped sentiments. Great.
ReplyDeletePolish climbers have always been at the forefront of hard Himalayan climbing under the most extreme conditions and without the benefit of what the more affluent western alpinists enjoyed. Jerzy Kukuczka was one of its most driven and brilliant exponents.
ReplyDeleteI could not agree with you more Alok!
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