Wedged between the Himalayas and shuttered
Tibet, lies an ancient Buddhist kingdom within the borders of Hindu Nepal.
The kingdom of Lo.
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Nothing much has changed since then. Sheltered behind 26,000 ft. high peaks, the Lobas
continue to live a centuries old existence, farming, raising livestock and
preserving their ancient faith. Today, this domain of approximately 13
settlements is the last bastion of pure Tibetan culture, its monasteries the
finest example of Buddhist art, and Ame Pal’s capital the best-preserved
medieval fortification in the world.
Till the 1950’s the only route into Mustang was on horseback via
treacherous passes. Now, a
Chinese road extends from Lhasa to Kathmandu, daily flights bring in a gaggle
of tourists. Before a way of life
disappears forever, eight Southcol Expedition trekkers including me, embark
on a 7-day, 64km climb from Jomsom airstrip (9000 ft.), northwards to Lo Manthang (12,400ft.).
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As the Tara Air,
16-seater lifts off, Pokhara’s lake and green fields slip away, melting into
puffy clouds. Within minutes the skies
darken as we tunnel between the world’s two greatest mountain ranges at wingtip
distance. The Annapurna Peak metamorphoses into her fabled fish tail, while
across the aisle, the east face of Dhaulagiri, 26,000ft of dazzling beauty
floats past the windows. Below us the light-speckled Kali Gandaki River, its plunging
gorges, valleys and tributaries, bisect the terrain. Half-an-hour later we are in Jomsom, a brown,
barren, rocky desert.
