MAKALU BASE CAMP NOVEMBER 14- 27 2025
A South Col Team did the Makalu Base Camp trek in November 2025. The trek to 4870m ranks as one of the hardest that I have done in my forty years of trekking in India and Nepal. The trails are unforgiving and tricky with steps most of the way coupled with landslide boulder sections and slippery snowfields requiring micro spikes. Descents and ascents of 1400 metres are par for the course in Makalu - for those of you who have been to the Khumbu it’s like climbing or descending 2.5 Namche hills in one day. To top it all the accommodation is basic to say the least and the food restricted to Dal Bhat, noodle soup and eggs. There are no menus here - say goodbye to the cappuccinos and apple pies of the Khumbu and Annapurna. The fierce late November cold with primitive heating in the dining area and icebox like rooms made the trip even more challenging. Makalu is definitely not for the faint hearted. Having said that the average age of our six man team was 65 years so hats off to all of them for this huge effort 👏👏👏👏
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| Everest, Lhotse, ChoOyu and Makalu from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar flight |
The fastest approach is the flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar as of now only one flight a day Buddha Air in the morning. From Tumlingtar you can drive to Khandbari, Num and now to Seduwa. The road after Khandbari is rough a dirt track and so is the track from Num to Seduwa. There is also a bus from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar which would take very long maybe the whole day across Nepal. The jeep cost Mahindra Bolero or Tata Sumo reserved jeep is around NPR 21,000-24,000 from Tumlingtar to Seduwa.
We went in off season mid November and hence many of the lodges were not full. But by and large there are few lodges – some places like Dobato has one lodge only with about 12-15 rooms which is bi- g most of the other locations like Khongma had around 8-10 rooms in each lodge. In season which is possibly April and October the lodges would get busy. We carried two tents but did not have to use them. We found there was no system of booking rooms in lodges as there was no phone connectivity – on the way up we did book some lodges for the way but mostly we used to send our porters ahead to get the better rooms, if possible.
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| Lodge room at Makalu Base Camp, Yak Lodge |
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| Lodge room at Yangle Kharka |
There are no attached toilets on this route and very few western toilets either. The toilets are usually outside the main lodge building area and there is no running water either. Water is usually provided in a drum which is replenished from time to time.
The meals available in most of the lodges were very basic confined to eggs, porridge, dal bhat, noodles, sometimes muesli. There were no menus in most of the lodges except Yak Lodge Makalu Base camp which did have an extensive menu.
Phones and Wifi
There was no WIFI after Seduwa. In Num and Seduwa there were phone signals on both NTC and Ncell but no data 4G or 3G. In and above Danda Kharka there was a signal sometimes 4G. On the passes above Khongma notably Khongma la and Ghungru la we did get intermittent signals including some data which suddenly vanished. Beyond this there was no more connectivity. The lodges we found had some sort of wireless radio connectivity by which they could relay messages from lodge to lodge. Possibly messages when someone is ill or needs evacuation can be relayed from lodge to lodge in this fashion down to Seduwa where the normal NTC Ncell will work.
The trail to the base camp other than the upper reaches beyond Yangle Kharka is mostly on steps which have been built by the Makalu Barun National Park. In fact the climb from Tashigaon to Khongma which is 1400 metres of relentless ascent and of course descent on the way back, is all on stone steps making it very difficult for the knees.
Trek Numbers
I visited the office of the Makalu Barun National Park in Seduwa before starting the trek and saw the record for the number of trekkers in 2025. The total number of trekkers from January 1 2025 to 15 November 2025 was 1225 only including 577 Nepali trekkers. The majority of these trekkers were in April and October.
Permits
We needed only the Makalu Barun National Park permit which we obtained from the National park office in Seduwa. No other permit was required. A guide is not mandatory on this trek either.
14 November 2025
The flight to Tumlingtar from Kathmandu was delayed in the morning due to the usual fog in Tumlingtar which usually lifts around 10 am. We landed around 12 noon after an excellent view of all the high mountains including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu. We had arranged two jeeps for our team and porters – Mahindra Bolero four wheel drive. The jeep ride to Khandbari on a black top road took 35 -40 min and at Khandbari 1030m we stopped for lunch for an hour, dal Bhat at a roadside restaurant. We left Khandbari at 1-40 pm, the road was black top for 15 min and then on rough dirt track road to Num - in about an hour we climbed to 1900 metres on a very dusty track at Chichila bazar for a tea break from where Chamlang was visible through the afternoon clouds. The road then climbed to 2200m to a saddle and then finally descended to the small town of Num at 1530m. We stopped at the Sherpa Guest house at Num which was towards the end of the town. The lodge had wifi though both Ncell and Nepal Telecom were working here. There was two toilets one western and one shower room
as well.
Tumlingtar to Khandbari 35-40 min; Khandbari to Num 2 hrs 30 min
15 November 2025
We left Num at 8.15 am on a very steep and sometimes dangerous dirt track which dropped precipitously to the bridge across the river at 730m in 1 hour 50 min.The track then crossed the river on a Bailey bridge and then climbed again equally steeply in around 50 min to the village of Seduwa which we reached around 9-55 am at 1573m.
We went to the office of the Makalu Barun National Park and paid for our permits Rs 1500 for SAARC citizens and Rs 3000 for foreigners.
We then had some tea at the Makalu Barun hotel and left at 11 am for Tashigaon. The trail climbed on steps for about an hour through cardamom fields till 1830m and then joined a wide track which is possibly part of the new road being extended to Tashigaon. There was a sign saying Makalu Base Camp with an arrow which we followed for about 45 min to reach Chyaksedanda at 1940m - which has one tea house. There was Nepal Telecom 4G signal available here and we took a lunch break and had some noodle soup.
We left Chyaksedanda at around 1-30 pm following a damp forest path for 15 min, then met the road again and followed the road right up towards Tashigaon until we reached a small tea shop in one hour at 14 35 hours at 2020 metres. The trail then climbed up through a series of stone steps to finally reach two lodges - we stayed in the second lodge called Danphe Guest House which had a new building of three nice rooms and some rooms in the old building as well. We reached Tashigaon at 3-20 pm altitude 2180m. There is a faint Ncell and Nepal Telecom signal here but no data - voice calls sometimes if it connects. At Tashigaon dal bhat is Rs 600 and Black tea Rs 100.
Seduwa to Chyaksedanda 2 hours; Chyaksedanda to Tashigaon 2 hours
16 November 2025
We left Tashigaon at 7-45 am, the real start of the steep climb. It was a relentless climb on steps for 1400 metres in two parts, mainly through the forest. The path climbed steeply on stone steps crossed a wooden bridge over a waterfall and then climbed very steeply to reach a lone house with a chorten which says 2450m in one hour. We then climbed 20 min more to reach another house at 2595 metre where tea is available at 9-30 am. We left the tea shop at 9-55 am - the trail levels a bit and then crosses below a huge rock and starts climbing steeply again in 45 min to a Chorten and flags at 2830m. We reached Danda Kharka 2944 metres at 11.15 am approx. 3.5 hours from Tashigaon. There is NTC signal at Danda Kharka and on the way up to Kongma with 4G at some places. Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black tea 100 at the lodge at Danda Kharka.
We left Danda Kharka at 12.30 pm after lunch and the path climbs initially and then levels out - it makes a steep final climb to a tea house with a core national park sign at 3240m, where we stopped for a break in one hour from Dande Kharka. The climb continued relentlessly for another hour and thirty minutes on steps before reaching Khongma 3615m at 3-10 pm. We stayed at the first lodge in Khongma, Hotel View Point and Lodge, but there are two more up the trail all owned by the villagers of Tashigaon. At Khongma Dal Bhat Rs 600 Black Tea Rs 100
Tashigaon to Danda Kharka 3.5 hours; Danda Kharka to Kongma 2 hrs 45 min.
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| View from Khongma La |
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| Trail from Khongma la to Ghungru La |
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| Lodge Shiptonla |
November 18 2025
We left Dobato at 8-10 am and there was a knee crunching descent of 560m to 3300 m to the river in 1 hr 45 min, which we reached around 10 am. From here in about 20 min we followed the left bank of the river and climbed up to a set of prayer flags at 10.22 am and then starts the landslide area. This is a risky crossing and beware of rocks and falling boulders do not waste time to rest here. It took us approximately 1.5 hours to cross the landslide area at 11-50 am and at 3460m. After this in 30 min we reached the tea shop of Phemathang 3540m at 12-30 pm. There are some rooms in the tea shop which looked extremely basic. We had lunch in the sun and by the time we were leaving the sun was almost gone thanks to the high cliffs all around. Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black tea Rs 150 at Phemathang.
We left Phemathang at 1. 30 pm and arrived at Yangle Kharka 3620m at 3 pm. The stretch was a very pleasant walks along the river and through a forest with good views of Makalu and Shersong across the meadows. It was relief to end with this trail after the very hard day with the landslide crossing and long steep descent from Dobato. We stayed at the first lodge at Yangle Kharka which was fairly big with around 15-20 rooms spread over two buildings. Yangle Kharka was one of the coldest places we stayed in – in the morning in my room the water in a glass had frozen hard implying the temperature inside the room must have been well below 0 Celsius. Yangle Kharka Dal Bhat Rs 800 Black tea Rs
150
Dobato to Phemathang 4.5 hours; Phemathang to Yangla Kharka 1.5 hours.
The lone lodge at Phemathang
November 19 2025
We left Yangle Kharka at 8-15 am, it was a sunny cold morning and in an hour we reached a crossing- the left trail goes to the Shiva Dara temple and the right makes a steep climb on steps for 30 min to reach a level point at 3900m. In 30 min from here we reached a yak kharka at 3960m in the sunshine and then in another 30 min reach the tea shop at Tadosa 4020m in about 2.5 hours from Yangle
Kharka.
We left Tadosa at 11. 45 am and almost immediately hit another landslide section for 30 min climbing uphill. The trail then climbs to a small teashop at 4170m at 12 25 pm. After this the climb continues up the slope and through boulders and eventually reached the bottom of the final climb at 1.20 pm at 4350 metres. The last push of 100 metres brings you up to the two lodges of Langmale Kharka at 4460m. The first lodge was closed for the season and we stayed at the second lodge Yak Hotel and Lodge. The afternoon was cloudy and cold with low visibility.
Yangle to Tadosa 2.5 hours Tadosa to Langmale 2 hours. Dal Bhat Rs 800 Black Tea Rs 150 at Langmale
November 20 2025
Fortunately the morning was sunny and clear - we left at 8-30 am from Langmale, a sunny climb gently in one hour to reach a bridge across the river. There were splendid views of the lesser peaks around the valley, Makalu was not visible. You don’t need to cross the bridge, continue to follow the trail and in about 2 hours we reached a flat plain at 4680m. A little way ahead Makalu appeared on the right skyline, the huge bulk of the mountain was slowly opening up for the first time and it was very impressive. The trail then crossed a boulder section with a small bridge and entered another meadow with a chorten and a tea house which was closed at Shersong 3720m at 10-55 am. From here the trail started climbing again for an hour and reached a point at 4900m from where you hit an icy section and micro spikes are needed from here to the base camp. It was around 12 30 pm - the next 45 minutes was mainly through snow and ice finally going down to the base camp visible on our left at 4870m. We reached MBC at 1-15 pm in 4 hrs 45 min. Sadly due to heavy unseasonal dumps of snow in early and late October in Nepal, both the two viewpoints Everest east and west were snowed over and not accessible. We stayed at the Yak Lodge at base camp which was owned by the Yak lodge owner at Langmale and run by his son. These rooms were better and there was a warm dining room with an extensive menu for the first time. The lodge owner told us that facilities at the base camp were better than further down the valley due to the large number of climbers using the base camp during the
climbing season.
Langmale to Makalu Base Camp around 4.5 to 5 hours Dal Bhat Rs 800 Black Tea Rs 150
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| You can see the red huts of Makalu Base Camp in the left middle of the photo |
Had the weather been good we had plans to walk up the valley towards the direction of the Swiss Base Camp but the morning was grey and threatening to snow. We decided to leave and get down into lower altitudes before the snow started. We had also a long day as we were planning to reach Yangle in the evening. We left Makalu base camp at 8-45 am Our timings were:
The weather continued to be bad with white out conditions and some light snowfall. Our timings were:
Phemathang 10 am crossed landslide by 11.25 am
Landslide 11-45 am Dobato 2.30 pm It had started snowing on our way back to Dobato and parts of the trail from the river to Dobato was snowed over.
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| Outside the lodge of Dobato before starting our walk down |
Keke La 10 am Shipton La 11.30 am – heavy snow on this section – 1 hr 30 min
Shipton la 12 noon Ghungru La 1.15 pm – 1 hr 15 min
Ghunrgru La 1.20 pm Khongma la 2.10 pm 50 min
Khongma La 2.20pm Khongma 3 pm – 40 min
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| Descending from Shipton la |
Today was the knee crunching 1400 metre descent to Tashigaon. Our timings on the descent were:
November 25 2025
This was the last day down and a fairly easy and pleasant walk. We left Tashigaon 8-40 am and got into Seduwa by 12 noon. We stopped for lunch in Seduwa and then drove down to Num and reached in about 2.5 hours.
We drove from Num to Khandbari to Tumlingtar which we reached by lunchtime.
Flight Tumlingtar to Kathmandu
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| Num to Khongma |
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| Khongma to Dobato |
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| Dobato to Langmale Kharka |
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| Langmale Kharka to Makalu Base Camp |
