With a view to extend the Poon Hill trek by a few days we decided to go a recce of a new route to Dobato and Muldai View Point – the Muldai route can be extended to Khopra Ridge as well.
February 28th 2023 - Flight Kathmandu to Pokhara drive to Ghandrung
Our Buddha Air flight to Pokhara was at 7.55 am but when we reached the airport we were told that there are not enough passengers for two flights so they sent us on the earlier flight at 7 30 pm. The flight was uneventful with views of Langtang, Ganesh Himal and then Himalchuli and the Manaslu group. Finally just before Pokhara the Annapurnas and Macchapuchare came into view through the early morning fog. We landed at the new Pokhara airport which is big and very swanky with all the modern amenities and facilities. Our jeep ride to Kimche below Ghandrung took around 1 hr 45 min and we then started the walk to Ghandrung. Kimche is around 1700 metres and in an hour we reached Ghandrung which is 1980 metres. I was quite shocked to see the rapid urbanization of this beautiful village. Gone are the slate roofed houses and lodges - ugly new brick and concrete constructions are mushrooming all over the village some three storeys high- there is construction materials piled up everywhere destroying the old charm and beauty of this once upon a time Himalayan village. We walked up past our earlier lodges Milan and Gurung Cottage both which seemed to be quite congested and surrounded by new buildings in a state of semi construction and decided to stay at the Ghandrung Eco Lodge which thankfully had a better view and an open aspect - tomorrow we walk to Tadapani.
Pokhara to Kimche by jeep 1 hour 45 min to 2 hours; Kimche to Ghandrung trek 1 hour ; Ghandrung 2032m 28 22 34N 83 48 26 E
Ncell and NTC both working at Ghandrung 4G reception; Dal Bhat Rs 500 Black Tea Rs 80
March 1 2023 Ghandrung to Tadapani 2690m
It was a reasonably clear morning and we saw the mountains from our lodge. I walked down to old Ghandrung village before breakfast to get a photo of the older houses fast vanishing with the mountains. We left around 9-10 am after breakfast. The trail climbed up gradually and in about 35-40 min reached the famous Lonely Planet Lodge which has now added several new rooms. The location is excellent with the mountain views. The trail then started climbing gradually through the forest - in some sections there were some steep climbs - in about an hour it reaches a small bridge across the river and from here on stone steps it climbs very steeply for about 30-40 minutes to reach the lodges of Baisikharka around 2500 metres. This is a welcome tea break and you can catch your breath for a bit before starting out for Tadapani. The trail initially climbs steeply out of Baiskharka again on stone steps in the forest. In about half an hour the steep climbing is done and you reach a resting place in a meadow. From here the gradient eases and it is a fairy level walk with a few ups and downs - the last five minutes it climbs again and enters Tadapani with around 5-6 lodges.
Ghandrung to Lonely Planet Lodge 35 to 40 min; Lonely Planet Lodge to Baisikharka 1 hr 30 to 40 min; Baisikharka to Tadapani 1 hour. Tadapani 2690m 28 23 49 N 83 45 55E
NTC working at Tadapani but not data - most lodges here have wifi
Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black Tea Rs 80
It rained quite heavily last afternoon - Nepal has been receiving some rain last few days after more than four months. There was also a heavy hailstorm in the evening and the weather finally cleared up at night when the moon came up. The morning was crystal clear and we left for Dobato after breakfast at 7.55 am. The trail was through the forest and we found the first rhododendrons had started to bloom. The trail climbed initially and then descended before climbing again in about an hour to reach a ridge at around 2800 metres - the trail is well marked with blue and white markers - there is a stone Chautara which serves as a resting place. Take the right trail from here with the blue markers and in about another 20 minutes reach another larger stone Chautara with a sign Tadapani 8 and a small meadow with views of Annapurna South, Huinchuli and Machapuchare. From here there is a steep climb to the first lodge called Heaven View Top Lodge at Meshar Danda about 2950 metres and two hours from Tadapani. The lodge was closed and after a brief water stop we carried on. The trail did an initial steep climb before levelling out and a final last climb brought us to the Hillside lodge at Isharu in about 40 minutes at an altitude of around 3100 metres. We stopped for a tea break here and then carried on climbing steeply again in 15 minutes to the upper Isharu Green Hill lodge. Passing this lodge the trail started climbing again and in about 30 minutes reached a small shed with a place to worship called Kirumsi Baraha. From here we started walking through snow which was due to the heavy downpour yesterday - in the shadow areas most of the snow had frozen over and parts were quite slippery. We plodded on through the snow following the blue and white markers climbing all the way through the forest. As we came closer to Dobato the weather started packing up and clouds rushed up the valley - soon it was back to white out conditions. Finally, in about 1 hr 30 min from Isharu we came to the lodges of Dobato and stopped at Mt Lucky. Within half an hour it started to rain and hail again.
Tadapani to Meshar Danda 2970m 2 hrs; Meshar Danda to Hillside Lodge Isharu 40 min; Isharu to Dobato 1 hr 30 - 1 hr 45 min.
Isharu 3100 metres 28 24 52 N 83 44 50E Dobato 3448m 28 25 24 N 83 44 14E
Very weak NTC reception at Dobato - the lodge had wifi which was not working - however at the Mulde View Point 45 min up there was NTC 4G reception
Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black Tea Rs 80
March 3 2023 Dobato to Mulde View Point to Ghorepani 2850m
The morning was clear and cold and we started out at 7-10 am after breakfast for Muldai View Point - the trail was steep and snow covered and we had to use micro spikes to prevent us from slipping. We reached Muldai in about 50 minutes and were greeted with a splendid view from the Dhaulagiri group right down to the Annapurnas and Machhapuchare. After shooting both photos and videos we left Muldai at around 8 50 am. The trail meandered around the hillside with views on both sides and in about an hour reached a small Chautara next to it was a sign pointing to Deorali on one side and Dobato on the other. The trail then started plunging down very steeply to the forest - due to the snow for the last two days the shady parts of the forest were full of snow and some parts were becoming icy. We continued to descend slowly using our micro spikes and sticks and in about one hour we came to the bottom - from here the trail followed a series of ascents and descents but the snow had ended and the walking was easier. Finally around 11 45 am we reached the lodges of Deorali where we stopped for lunch. We left Deorali at around 12 55 pm - the trail climbed initially for about 20 min and react a small pass on the ridge with prayer flags - from here there were a series of gentle ups and downs on the ridge - on a clear day there is are awesome mountain views from this ridge route but today it was covered in cloud. In about 50 minutes we reached a tea shop on the ridge with a Chautara and prayer flags. From here the trail drops in a series of steps for about 20 minutes until it reaches another Chautara - from here the sharp right trail goes to upper Ghorepani while the trail going straight goes to lower Ghorepani - finally around 3 pm we reached the lodges of Ghorepani after a long day. As the clouds had settled in we were denied a sunset view of the mountains.
Dobato to Mulde View Point 3627m 45 min to 1 hour; Mulde View Point to Deorali 3150m 3 hours ; Deorali to Ghorepani 2850m 2 hours
Deorali 3150m 28 23 49N 83 43 44N Ghorepani 2850m 28 24 10 N 83 41 57E
There was full NTC 4G reception at Ghorepani
Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black Tea Rs 80
March 4th 2023 Ghorepani to Banthanti 1900m and jeep to Pokhara
We left at 5 40 am in the morning for Poon Hill. The weather was foggy and misty - as we climbed up Annapurna South and Huinchuli came up through the clouds - we reached the top around 6 30 am - the sun was yet to come up - The huge mass of Dhaulagiri appeared through the clouds just the peak getting the golden Ray's of the sun. However the view was hazy not the usual crystal clear morning we had experienced in Muldai.
We left Ghorepani after breakfast around 9 15 am and continued down on a broad path with the odd rhododendron tree in bloom to Nagthanti in about 1.5 hours - we took a short break and then continued through the forest mainly losing altitude to the upper lodges of Banthanti - as we exited the forest we came upon a broad road for jeeps - this is the road down to Nayapul and then Pokhara - on the other side the road is being extended to Ghorepani which it may well reach in a couple of years putting an end to this trekking route as well. From Banthanti as the road was there we took a jeep to Pokhara and reached in 2.5 hours. However from Banthanti to Hillay the trekking trail and the infamous Ulleri steps are still undisturbed and are being used by a lot of Trekkers. After Hillay to Birethanti unfortunately you have to walk on the road.
Ghorepani to Nagthanti 1 hour 30 min; Nagthanti to upper Banthanti 1 hr 15 min; Banthanti to Hillay by jeep 45 min; Hillay to Pokhara 1 hour 45 min.
For more information on treks in the Himalaya do visit www.southcol.com
For more photographs and essays on the Himalaya do visit www.sujoydas.com
Thanks for sharing the beauty of nature with us. Keep exploring and sharing.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing this Article, beauty of nature. Keep exploring and sharing.
ReplyDelete