The Great Lakes is one of the signature treks in Kashmir and has become extremely popular especially in the busy summer season of July and August. There have been reports that in late July this year there were more than four hundred trekkers on the trail at one time! However, our South Col Expeditions team went in second half of August 2021 and we did not encounter many groups - the rush had eased by then. This is very rewarding trek and more so if done in the shoulder seasons - last week of June and last week of August into mid September.
The trek is usually done in six days - some of the days are long and tedious - but we did the route in seven days breaking up the first day into two days for better acclimatisation as we were flying straight into Srinagar and then driving immediately to Sonamarg. This approach gave a gentle start to the walk and was appreciated by all our trekkers.
The timings for the walk was recorded on Strava by one of our trekkers Dr Rajesh Tope and these screenshots are included here for reference. It should be noted that the timings recorded by Strava are the actual walking timings so stops for rest, lunch, photographs etc. should be added.
Day 1 Srinagar to Sonamarg Altitude: 2670m Time taken: 3 hours drive -
We fly into Srinagar by noon and then after quick lunch we drive from Srinagar airport to the base camp at Sonamarg which is called Shitkadi.Night at Shitkadi campsite.
Day
2 Sonamarg (Shitkadi) to Shekdur (Tabletop) Altitude: 3250m Steep Ascent 5.8 km short day
·
Time taken: 3 hours - within the
first 15-20 min into the trek we come to the meadows. A steady uphill climb of
approx. 1½ hrs brings us at the level of the Army Camp. We further
climb to the ridge and crossover and pass through meadows and Maple &
Silver Birch forests to reach our beautiful campsite for the day. Dinner and
overnight stay at camp in Shekhdur also known as Tabletop.
Day
3 Shekdur (Tabletop) to Nichnai Altitude: 3,680 m short day
· Time taken 3-4 hours, 5.7 km moderate.
A steady uphill 15 min. climb from our campsite followed by ½ hr of more
or less flat walk through Silver Birch forest and another 20 – 30 min.
Walk gently down to the stream in Nichnai Valley. The route from here onwards
initially is through a rocky terrain, later on interspersed with meadows. From
the stream it takes about 2½ hrs steady climb to reach Nichnai Base camp. We camp in the flowery meadows of Nichnai.
Day
4 19th Aug Nichnai to Kishansar/Vishansar Valley
Altitude: 3,650 m
·
Time: 6 hours, 10.28 kms Moderate. 1.5 hours of gradual ascent
followed by an hour-long climb to the pass. A steep descent from the pass for
about an hour easing off into a flat walk.
·
We ascend into the Kishansar/Vishansar
Valley—a beautiful valley with two lakes resting soothingly before two lofty
mountain peaks. The lakes abound with colourful trout fish. Both of these lakes
have a religious significance and they drain into Kishanganga River that
meanders through Gurez valley.
Day 5 Kishansar/Vishansar Valley to Gadsar Altitude: 3650m
Time
taken: 7-8 hours, 15 kms Moderate. 1.5-2 hours of steep ascent followed by
1 hour of steep descent, easing off into a level walk.
·
We enter into the Gadsar Valley over
Gadsar pass. The pass gives a view of both Kishansar/Vishansar valley on one
side and the Gadsar valley on the other. Enchant yourself with long wavy
meadows dotted with multi-coloured flowers. The Gadsar Valley is famous for its
lake and sinking watersand. We pitch the tents beside a shimmering canal that
comes out of the Gadsar Lake. Legends say the water and fish from the Gadsar
Lake have healing powers.
Day 6 Gadsar to Satsar Altitude: 3,600 m
· Time taken: 5-6 hours, 14 kms Moderate; 1.5 hours of steep ascent followed by a level walk.
Day 7 Satsar to Nandkol Altitude: 3,587 m Time taken: 6 hours, 9 kms Difficult.
30 minutes each of gradual ascent and descent followed by a steep ascent for about 45 and then by a steep descent. Similarly ascending and descending trail all the way through.
Day
8 Gangabal to Naranag Altitude: 2,271 m
Time taken: 6-7 hours, 14 kms
Moderate. A mix of ascents and descents for 6 km followed by a very steep
descent all the way down. We lose 1300 metres in the day. On the last day of
the trek, we descend into the Naranag valley. The same day we will drive
to Srinagar for the night stay.
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