Chamser Kangri, Mentok Kangri and Lungser Kangri

Tso Moriri

The area around the lake of Tso Moriri in Ladakh has a number of peaks crossing that magical height of 6000 metres and the three "Kangri's" listed below are without doubt the most popular.

In the season which is June to August there are a number of small groups who make attempts on these peaks often after a trek from Rumtse to Tso Moriri which is the perfect aid to acclimatisation.

So if you are looking to climb a peak in Ladakh and want to avoid the crowds of Stok Kangri then one of these may be ideal for you!

Chamser Kangri
The highest peak of the Chamser group is 6620 metres and the climb requires a base camp around 5000 metres which is a day's walk from Korzok village. Camp I is set up on a large plateau around 5700 metres and then Camp II around 6150 metres  from where the summit is reached in a day's hard push. However, this summer the Indian Army refused permission for Chamser Kangri due to security reasons and so many teams looked for alternatives in the region

There are three peaks in the Chamser group all of varying levels of difficulty. I exchanged some notes with Kuntal Joisher, who is presently on his way to climb a 8000 metre peak in Nepal, Manaslu.

This is what Kuntal says "Regarding Chamser, it's a beautiful mountain, with a super scenic approach trek to the base camp. I climbed Chamser right after I finished Rupshu trek and then Mentok. We completed the climb in 3 days and I was literally able to run up the mountain. The route from BC to summit is fairly steep and it's mostly a snow walk. There is no ice, or glacier, and in my case no crampons were required. It seems that this year every group that applied for Chamser climbing permit got rejected due to security concerns. The other beauty of Chamser is that it has 3 summits, Chamser 1 (which is the main summit), Chamser 2 (which is quite a difficult summit, and a technical one too), and then Chamser 3. Chamser 3 is a little over 6000 meters and offers a simple gradual trek to the summit. So if there is someone in your group with less experience, they can choose to go up Chamser 3. "

Lungser Kangri
The highest peak of the trio at 6665 metres, Lungser Kangri also shares the same Base Camp as Chamser Kangri on the grassy meadow called Kurchya around 5000 metres. There is a Camp I at 6100 metres on an open plateau and then Camp II at 6250 metres near a small lake. The last push on the summit ridge can be very tiring.

Mentok Kangri
Mentok Kangri lies south of the village of Korzok and the highest peak of the range is at 6250 metres.

Kuntal Joisher who has climbed Mentok comments:

"Mentok has multiple peaks (1,2,3) and each peak offers multiple routes up the summit. The route we chose up Mentok was a fairly technical one, and so our Sherpas went ahead and fixed lines. We then ascended the fixed lines on a fairly steep gradient ice wall. This involved quite a bit of cramponing and jumaring. We then accessed the summit ridge, which was quite exposed, narrow and rocky. Now, we could have taken a completely non ice/snow/rock route. This route is up a scree gully. So even though the route may sound easier, it's a horrendous route with constant rockfall.. In the end I ascended up the ice wall and rocky ridge, and descended down the scree gully, as I wanted a full traverse experience. Rest of the team descended the same way they went up."


Some Useful Links
Chamser Kangri by Micah Hansen
http://www.indietrekking.com/himalayan-trekking-guide/ladakh/chamser-kangri-chhamser-kangri

Chamser & Lungser Kangri
http://randomadventurez.blogspot.in/2012/09/chumser-lungser-days-1-to-8-on-chumser.html

Mentok Kangri by White Magic Adventure
http://www.whitemagicadventure.com/details/mentok-kangri-i-6250m.html