tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-79326135591978770442024-03-19T06:40:00.398+05:30Trekking and Photography in the HimalayaSujoy Das, founder of South Col Expeditions, leads treks and photo workshops in the HimalayasSujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.comBlogger531125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-55307869409115978102024-03-09T12:43:00.002+05:302024-03-09T18:14:13.025+05:30Kilimanjaro Climb | Dr Ajmal Sobhan<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMYI-LiyYh0z4xnOKbRoRoOI1TYFPl0NoDjvHZnox_FZayYwCgrG21zHzXHObgR3vuspddtCjcWjumOGEU6I5wOiClS6y9RgXbwPLQKdFcoIGNqSX9Uk1f0BqJpgTAuiKfiK-P3bPmYjImNI0Cd-Ax0Ll6y2FqieQurCGRCG-6r0zGrjasVMaE2dlvALV/s2016/IMG_6922.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJMYI-LiyYh0z4xnOKbRoRoOI1TYFPl0NoDjvHZnox_FZayYwCgrG21zHzXHObgR3vuspddtCjcWjumOGEU6I5wOiClS6y9RgXbwPLQKdFcoIGNqSX9Uk1f0BqJpgTAuiKfiK-P3bPmYjImNI0Cd-Ax0Ll6y2FqieQurCGRCG-6r0zGrjasVMaE2dlvALV/w640-h480/IMG_6922.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the start of the climb the Lemosho Gate</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span style="color: #073763;"><i><b>Ajmal Sobhan from Newport News, Virginia, is a retired surgeon, former marathon runner with many treks under his belt. In this guest post Ajmal describes his climb of Kilimanjaro the tallest free standing mountain in the world and one of the seven summits. </b></i></span></p><p>-<b>Kilimanjaro: The agony and the ecstasy</b></p><p>Before going to Tanzania, I must have watched a dozen or more YouTube videos on Kilimanjaro. Most of them gave a good packing list, shots optional or mandatory, different routes some tougher and some easier. Not many described the level of difficulty related to age and experience, and none described the sad state of the trails when the rain practically destroys any safe pathways other than using common sense or relying on the experience of the guides.</p><p> Practically none of those videos prepared me for what was to come. I had never been to Africa nor had I summitted any mountains. All the experience I had involved trekking not climbing. Most of the treks were in Nepal, Colorado, the AT (Appalachian Trail), and one in India (Green Lakes, Kangchenjunga, Sikkim).<span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p> Hiking or trekking is not trivial, but summiting is altogether a different ball of wax. Besides the elevation, and the need for sticks, gaiters, micro spikes, and 4-5 layers of clothing for the expedition (in the upper levels), the most unpredictable factor is the weather. Being caught in torrential rain, or snowfall, or sleet, can make or break any climb. Adjusting to the four climatic zones of Kilimanjaro: rain forest, heather moorland, alpine desert, and arctic zone, require a constant change of apparel. No one can really predict the micro weather at the upper altitudes. During a climb duration of 6 to 8 days, the prospects of having to encounter and then adjust to, alterations of local mountain weather of such radical nature, takes a toll on the body, no matter how fit. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9DewsCVyvFt-VL9ue1soTEjD0eHk8nqhXFT62IpzYtuQNiDjOWfhpu4VqiSaieGiORATTlJrUsyNWKV8UXrPCPeeJbKSm3U3EjlBfc9dn6Pt8UPH3VWt96qOkJ6-4MWD8oEQqpOq07e4to6VPouV9jQFBcZ0DHbjx66cTfManN6zU-HA02e1wD8bxKDA/s2016/IMG_7111.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU9DewsCVyvFt-VL9ue1soTEjD0eHk8nqhXFT62IpzYtuQNiDjOWfhpu4VqiSaieGiORATTlJrUsyNWKV8UXrPCPeeJbKSm3U3EjlBfc9dn6Pt8UPH3VWt96qOkJ6-4MWD8oEQqpOq07e4to6VPouV9jQFBcZ0DHbjx66cTfManN6zU-HA02e1wD8bxKDA/w640-h480/IMG_7111.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of the Barranco wall with Kilimanjaro behind</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>I chose not to go with any of the multiple companies that one can find on the internet, relying instead on my good friend Sujoy Das - a veteran trekker and a photographer, to organize one. Sujoy also runs a company of his own, <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">South Col Expeditions,</a> arranging treks in Nepal, and in India. I also wanted to be among folks I am familiar with. Sujoy hooked up with a local Tanzanian company that provided us with excellent mountain guides and porters. On arrival at Arusha from Addis Ababa (Capital of Ethiopia), we were met at the hotel by Achmed, the owner of the local company, a Brit/German gentleman married to a Tanzanian lady, who has lived there for the last 25 years. He had a bustling business, but Covid took a toll, and he is now trying to rekindle his business with tours of the Serengeti as well as Kilimanjaro. Achmed is a man of many talents, fluent in Swahili, English and several other languages, sat down with us at the hotel and downed 6 beers in a few hours, and told us many of his tales spanning three continents over a 40-year span. </p><p>Our team of six included three young men in their mid 20’s - all PhD students (electrical engineering); two early sixties gentlemen – Sujoy (the tour operator) and Srijit (a business executive); and me, brazenly testing my longevity at the age of 75. Among the three young men Aaron and Andrew are identical twins from Cornell and Rahul is from UC Berkley. It was fascinating to see how fit they were, their zeal for adventure, be it climbing or other sports, and just as brilliant in their professional life which was still unfolding. Between the young and the old, it was a good mix and we bonded well with each other, and were concerned and sensitive to each other’s needs. What surprised me was the number of support staff needed to manage the 6 climbers - 24 in all. One might ask why so many. Putting up tents, porta potty's, setting up a kitchen, cooking food, and serving it, requires a lot of toil as you continue going up and up the mountain. The care they provided was essential to sustain us and to prevent something bad from happening. These chores were clearly impracticable for (amateur) climbers to do by themselves. There was more than one occasion that the help of the guide in crossing a particular ridge, cliff, or a bridge was vital for our safety. The two main guides: Ben and Bryson, were men in their 40s, having taken groups like us to the top, many times.</p><p>We chose the Lemosho route as it provides more time (8 days) and generally has a 90 percent success rate in summiting the mountain. It is one of 5 routes to reach the summit, and we wanted to be prudent and cautious in our venture considering our age variance and stamina levels. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ZycigzDmeAZAVRFJyHaqASX2s5YLZm94GRVhqyvReUqLdQI_AYdArpogGVNqksFw6FtkHA5ZWVzazsKA7riKk515xmDIkxV68X0xjSgE5ebvgO8YytT7ySGfLIzB075HTNeOg36gtc9RmC87fRYnBUJ5ZQA_7H2OTYnNZ8qrDx35tvR8ffx8ZJOv4YaI/s2016/IMG_6986.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ZycigzDmeAZAVRFJyHaqASX2s5YLZm94GRVhqyvReUqLdQI_AYdArpogGVNqksFw6FtkHA5ZWVzazsKA7riKk515xmDIkxV68X0xjSgE5ebvgO8YytT7ySGfLIzB075HTNeOg36gtc9RmC87fRYnBUJ5ZQA_7H2OTYnNZ8qrDx35tvR8ffx8ZJOv4YaI/w640-h480/IMG_6986.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our three guides Head Guide Ben, Bryson and Dennis - without them there would not have been a summit</td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <p></p><p> Starting at 2,389 meters, our first leg took us from the Lemosho glades (where we arrived by Jeep) , to Big Tree camp in about 3 hours on the first day at 2785m. On the second day we climbed to Shira One camp at 3504 meters in 6 hours. The tropical rain forest was lush and one could breathe the fresh oxygen released by the trees. From Shira 1 to Shira 2, we left the rain forest and entered Mooreland across the Shira Plateau. We only gained 340 meters to help us to acclimatize that day. </p><p>From Shira 2, we moved from the Shira Plateau to the Lava Tower at 4,672 meters. We continued on to the Barranco Camp at 3,986 meters for the night = the purpose being again to acclimatize. From the Barranco camp we had to climb the formidable Barranco Wall, a large slab of rock with few spots for a foothold. One needs to spread eagle oneself and cross it slowly (with a hand stabilization by the guides). Any slip does not take you all the way down, but the roll could cause you considerable damage. From Barranco Camp we crossed over a steep ridge to drop down to Karanga Valley at 4,036 meters. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6_dZ5_fZWS4go9ZPQdoOzklu7nxn9H80tmWU5S_3py8eDgSBfuE5HKopIoD-T3cOzL4OZrJ1Ob092w2nKhI59eL55hQ6S0iXAR-J2zyWMeTqWlveBXdj288WCBtJqPIhLkcwoSqshSVwizmQHhA-7jeLnTW_ZfYuKGlGEKKugEsisbPBWW6NkAE2GW_a/s2016/IMG_6980.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv6_dZ5_fZWS4go9ZPQdoOzklu7nxn9H80tmWU5S_3py8eDgSBfuE5HKopIoD-T3cOzL4OZrJ1Ob092w2nKhI59eL55hQ6S0iXAR-J2zyWMeTqWlveBXdj288WCBtJqPIhLkcwoSqshSVwizmQHhA-7jeLnTW_ZfYuKGlGEKKugEsisbPBWW6NkAE2GW_a/w640-h480/IMG_6980.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail along the Shira Plateau</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>We left the cold desert landscape, and we could now behold the glaciers not too far away from the valley. From Karanga Camp (4,200 meters), we crossed over the Barafu and are now on our way to Kosovo Camp at 4,870 meters, this being a 6-7 hour push uphill. We had already crossed day 5. This is where one hits the pedal to the metal, but ever so gently. From Kosovo Camp via Stella Point to Uhuru Peak is the ultimate push (day 6). We started at midnight after a rest for 5 hours and good hydration, and it was a continuous uphill push: 6 hours to Stella Point and 1.5 more hours to Uhuru Peak. As we went up we were on a combination of ice and snow. You need gaiters and microspikes for traction, and 5 layers of clothing. Thankfully, the ice was mostly powdery and not a frozen mass. But each time we put our foot into powdery ice, our foot sank, sometimes to the knees. We followed the guide in a single file, each of us with a headlamp. The old among us would halt the journey every 10 minutes or less to catch our breath, or drink some water, as our heart rate could easily be close to 150/min. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKNFYArG5QuIIYyq6wteoHd-FcIwNEcuprnAsVRCB7cLEyKnJH2QdaJtS3yfmTr_YizyUB4X6V3c7Z4HjnP7a_8N4txDDkhihAHtkvsLZ6J-x4H66k3E7XB50GyHslW1dOsgWK34ykYnv2_3SKU2AOZuLI3ELpm0LASwa2lBaJUUmHL1h2e9EAQTSKOi1/s1712/IMG_7149.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1712" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdKNFYArG5QuIIYyq6wteoHd-FcIwNEcuprnAsVRCB7cLEyKnJH2QdaJtS3yfmTr_YizyUB4X6V3c7Z4HjnP7a_8N4txDDkhihAHtkvsLZ6J-x4H66k3E7XB50GyHslW1dOsgWK34ykYnv2_3SKU2AOZuLI3ELpm0LASwa2lBaJUUmHL1h2e9EAQTSKOi1/w566-h640/IMG_7149.jpg" width="566" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit January 12th 2024 at around 7 am</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>It was sheer serendipity that by the time we reached Uhuru, the sun shone bright, there was no snow or rain falling. Out of the last 24 hours of the journey, it was 12 hours of constant movement, up and down. One had to keep moving, not due to stored energy, but for the adrenalin rush, from the excitement of being up there. </p><p>This was arguably the most exhausting and tiresome climb for me personally. There were times when I was ready to surrender, but something told me "Do not stop", and keep moving I did. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PhbSpk4yVY0Gl6RsUjV45SrRRp2zK-CezaR_t7gEcn8_iHlrohTdw7ZPENByRlIRVxY5cheSqwXFGfSrGhwsb_-IYubR2xbsPOXrDhfTSX9kc8AwmKbaH5xpjcup-mamMFvCZTxtZ7ndgCajbbGkTIvEkGjmjhfjGwm5P2inTYhayg9symYinpDgRRhR/s1106/kili.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1106" data-original-width="750" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4PhbSpk4yVY0Gl6RsUjV45SrRRp2zK-CezaR_t7gEcn8_iHlrohTdw7ZPENByRlIRVxY5cheSqwXFGfSrGhwsb_-IYubR2xbsPOXrDhfTSX9kc8AwmKbaH5xpjcup-mamMFvCZTxtZ7ndgCajbbGkTIvEkGjmjhfjGwm5P2inTYhayg9symYinpDgRRhR/w434-h640/kili.jpg" width="434" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p>Once we reached the peak (Uhuru), we were lucky to have clear sunlight with less than super-cold temperatures to bear ( around 20 Fahrenheit) . The view from the top was spectacular, matching everything one could imagine, and more. To see clouds sitting silently below and the vastness of the skyline itself was both ethereal and spiritual. But one cannot get too engrossed in the moment, because breathing at over 19,000 ft can become a problem after 30 minutes. Of course, all climbers lined up to take a picture in front of the sign which welcomes you to the top of the tallest free-standing mountain in the world.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh061hVXRiSCYu13KiI4eLF1ZX4jRpIGFGralinpBTs1zr2xcy7LzPUTnvOqz3r_C7oQihxmAs1ReRlIh5s5Gp6IW7ii08ixZVMdWpZ3hOX5ABg9JNNOleDo5zEAI6LnGVFhsuQp9_O-xDpzSWLYR4RAi9UZ-5x2iA2ls6m85osSqRYh8uYX6mmgUyhwkjc/s2040/e03570d4-e17b-4337-a017-789267f2e5d0.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2040" height="482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh061hVXRiSCYu13KiI4eLF1ZX4jRpIGFGralinpBTs1zr2xcy7LzPUTnvOqz3r_C7oQihxmAs1ReRlIh5s5Gp6IW7ii08ixZVMdWpZ3hOX5ABg9JNNOleDo5zEAI6LnGVFhsuQp9_O-xDpzSWLYR4RAi9UZ-5x2iA2ls6m85osSqRYh8uYX6mmgUyhwkjc/w640-h482/e03570d4-e17b-4337-a017-789267f2e5d0.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The rough and rocky terrain below Lava Tower due to the inclement weather and rains</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>After taking a snapshot of ourselves, we were on our way down. We reached Kosovo camp in 5 hours. After a quick box lunch, we were on our way down again. It was another 4 hours to Millennium Camp. The trails had been all washed away by a torrential downpour earlier, and it was treacherous climbing downhill. Out of the last 24 hours of the journey, it was 12 hours of constant movement, up and down.</p><p>It is amazing what group strength implies: between the six of us encouraging and supporting each other, and under the ever-watchful eyes of the guide and the porters upon us, none of us contemplated surrendering to total exhaustion. Personally, my body suffered more so due to the restrictive diet I am subscribed to (vegetarian), together with a stomach bug, poor sleep, and under-hydration, to boot. Getting in and out of the tent in damp, moist conditions are less than pleasant. It was annoying to say the least, but not enough for me to say "I give up!" I and others did fall a few times, but other than minor bruises (and a bruised ego) we did alright. </p><p>By the time we reached Millennium Camp, Srijit and I were spent, the trail had been washed away ,and what was left was mud, rocks and puddles of water. It was only five hours from our transport pick point to the hotel. Srijit and I decided to take a chopper. We had accomplished what we set out to do. It meant little to torture the body further. We listened to our body and felt no guilt.</p><p> The routes/passageways in the Himalayan Range are far well demarcated. Lodges dot the route all the way up to the Everest Base Camp, and the food is more conducive for people hailing from the Subcontinent. But we were in Africa and had to quickly adapt to the realities here.</p><p>Now, on to a short commentary on <b>Climate change and the plight of the Porters</b>: </p><p>Over the last hundred years, it is estimated that 70 percent of the ice cap (glaciers) atop Kilimanjaro have just disappeared, out of sight. Where there used to be gigantic ice caps once, now show desert rocks and boulders in their place. It is shocking how quickly this has come about. The devastating telltale signs of global warming and the reckless carbon footprints we humans have wrought upon the fragile ecosystem of our habitat we call the Earth, are plainly in sight for one to bemoan. The vanishing ice cap, whether it is atop a mountain, or that residing in the Arctic Ocean, will mean that soon these regions will become veritable ‘deserts’ bereft of their natural assets. The glaciers provide water for subsistence lower down the mountains. The arctic ice cap, for hundreds of millions of years, provided a stable climate system to the Earth as a whole. Now with an irreversible recession of this ice cap in progress, one only expects an alarming rise in sea levels around the world, setting in motion mass migration of the humans to higher grounds, in the process; and wreaking colossal misery on all forms of life. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM_NKmep32vKytlpcpBvlaqI2P4V2FOeF9NTfzy5Mk999yAL-RkaAeQWTrthIKW4FumX0Rmblko5SUslVZiRhxKzVaT6OBEo3xvbLgRt8hs53i45qPP7HPPKRyiTc-BXaaNYS5qxHpD6A1nk0dDzndcL4CA2HTSX8gnNJ_x8Uy4U9izIv7DvDOXnWqZBqR/s2016/IMG_7031.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM_NKmep32vKytlpcpBvlaqI2P4V2FOeF9NTfzy5Mk999yAL-RkaAeQWTrthIKW4FumX0Rmblko5SUslVZiRhxKzVaT6OBEo3xvbLgRt8hs53i45qPP7HPPKRyiTc-BXaaNYS5qxHpD6A1nk0dDzndcL4CA2HTSX8gnNJ_x8Uy4U9izIv7DvDOXnWqZBqR/w640-h480/IMG_7031.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climate change and unseasonal rains on Kilimanjaro in January</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>In the wake of the catastrophic climate change, existential threats to human survival would become imminent all around the globe. Take for example, the plight of the mountain porters in and around Kilimanjaro, just as a microcosm of the global problem at hand. </p><p>The displacement of many porters needed for any climb means scampering for alternate employment for them. 50,000 climbers per year with a porters-to-climber ratio of 4 to 1 means Tanzania (one of the poorer countries in Africa) depends heavily on such tourism (the Serengeti attracts even more tourists). The porters like the sherpas in Nepal, earn a pittance for a backbreaking job of hauling heavy loads atop mountains. Just as in Nepal, the government here in Tanzania is also complacent when it comes to the plight of the porters. These porters are in the age group of 18 - 30 and have fallen off the education track. The tour guides freely admit that they do not want their children to follow in the footsteps of their fathers. There is no Edmund Hillary here, who created the Himalayan Trust for the Nepalese sherpas, which built schools, hospitals, and airfields, to make the lives of the sherpa halfway decent. Without a conscious effort in place to immediately reduce our carbon footprint, we recklessly leave behind only a humongous disaster for posterity to languish in.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ssy6z2pp2qdp3mtN6wdu1p0b9dbnCE5WOrN43I97ccscExGH8HNivaB8nnMj4U66STUOzQeNZCVnGpH8PFEffHmRp9Kil5LuHKr6h4FrHOblRwNh8k4QV3v54MWrq623DInKYeue1LqxBxoQHf62Zf8KWFSnE3eUJIoJK8isMMdjLWMIBPvOgUQEFFzH/s2016/IMG_7104.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2016" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ssy6z2pp2qdp3mtN6wdu1p0b9dbnCE5WOrN43I97ccscExGH8HNivaB8nnMj4U66STUOzQeNZCVnGpH8PFEffHmRp9Kil5LuHKr6h4FrHOblRwNh8k4QV3v54MWrq623DInKYeue1LqxBxoQHf62Zf8KWFSnE3eUJIoJK8isMMdjLWMIBPvOgUQEFFzH/w480-h640/IMG_7104.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porters climbing the Barranco wall</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>People often wonder why some of us take such risks like wanting to summit a mountain, run a marathon, do a triathlon, swim the English Channel, or even jump off a plane. Humans have always craved adventure. Risk-taking is wired into our DNA. It is just not a physical thrill alone; nor is it the manifestation of acumen, tenacity and resilience as the visible attributes of a mental construct alone; but it is something more, perhaps far beyond - likely, it is spiritual, in the sense of ‘touching God’ Himself.</p><p>Coming back to our mundane existence: despite limitations imposed by it on the scope of our life, we humans often have ventured to go far and beyond. In doing so without being reckless, we have been rewarded with something that is immeasurable. While during adversity, tragedy, or a dire situation, one is often thrown into a realm beyond one's proverbial zone of comfort. There, tenacity, physical and mental prowess become essential to one’s survival. Tenacity is rarely inborn - it requires discipline, and a conscious effort, and grit, that need to be cultivated. We know that one cannot acquire strength without an effort, willpower without a focus, and grit without being stoical. If one can go beyond body and mind, there are no limit to one's potential in navigating this difficult life process. After all, one needn’t be a superman to realize it. Just being an ordinary one, with a motto ‘never give up', will do it!</p><p><b>Ajmal Sobhan January 2024</b></p><p><span style="color: #073763;"><b>For more information on our treks and photo workshops in the Himalaya and beyond do visit</b></span></p><p><a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></p><p><b><span style="color: #073763;">For more photographs on Kilimanjaro do visit this link</span><span style="color: #20124d;"> </span></b></p><p> <a href="https://www.sujoydas.com/Africa/Kilimanjaro">https://www.sujoydas.com/Africa/Kilimanjaro</a></p><p><br /></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Kilimanjaro, Tanzania-3.0674247 37.355627299999988-31.377658536178846 2.1993772999999877 25.242809136178845 72.511877299999981tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-3214279905607749432023-12-13T12:51:00.002+05:302023-12-21T13:02:07.058+05:30Everest and the Khumbu Region | Updates October - November 2023<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTJEJqY09a5y6P0q6PfxHsQKz7rJjVz9yPz1tje-5PY38x6K4S7OmlkeGQ-QwO1-vzCiZjQVVwNM6XdUTpnQ-lR3VDDaCdKA-6b0w236Ou2hwSi0To1R9vcdye8sKVGlJ208mdlcLHUoO3QsYOGqWEmkz2lSyfIQtqK5X9pnE1ECn2blMW_yY_-EBOPTg/s1500/IMG_E6247.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQTJEJqY09a5y6P0q6PfxHsQKz7rJjVz9yPz1tje-5PY38x6K4S7OmlkeGQ-QwO1-vzCiZjQVVwNM6XdUTpnQ-lR3VDDaCdKA-6b0w236Ou2hwSi0To1R9vcdye8sKVGlJ208mdlcLHUoO3QsYOGqWEmkz2lSyfIQtqK5X9pnE1ECn2blMW_yY_-EBOPTg/w640-h480/IMG_E6247.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Everest, the Lhotse wall and Ama Dablam from the high route between Phortse and Pangboche </td></tr></tbody></table><p>I was in the Khumbu for around three weeks in October – November 2023. Here are some updates which would be useful for trekkers in the coming year.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Trek Card</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal">There is a trek card now which is issued at Lukla. You can apply online for the trek card uploading your passport soft copy and your photo at <a href="https://trekcard.app/registration">https://trekcard.app/registration</a> When you reach Lukla you can get the trek card by paying Rs 2000 at the Lukla checkpost. The Sagarmatha Park fees continue to be paid at the Monjo checkpost. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCk8yuTsJdjT9gEUpkqJ27sSgH9yWsFa0QxBDRvThowUw7JWYpXbjLfGsA2_m-A6k0wL3KfxbcZLn0fJF3m4Mod6hlkKwYLMUkANLgI5HGOoRHoxIONrTT1GB_CT7Ggd4suUl0-u3YhsmZRTGDP29qnkUUjfSJOYLEPrd267eu1e8_HXsgIvb9wKyL6AKu/s1500/Everest%20and%20Khumbu%20Oct%20Nov%20231.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1500" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCk8yuTsJdjT9gEUpkqJ27sSgH9yWsFa0QxBDRvThowUw7JWYpXbjLfGsA2_m-A6k0wL3KfxbcZLn0fJF3m4Mod6hlkKwYLMUkANLgI5HGOoRHoxIONrTT1GB_CT7Ggd4suUl0-u3YhsmZRTGDP29qnkUUjfSJOYLEPrd267eu1e8_HXsgIvb9wKyL6AKu/w640-h512/Everest%20and%20Khumbu%20Oct%20Nov%20231.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">Mobile Connectivity</b></p><div style="text-align: left;">I noticed that both Ncell and NTC are working in the Everest region now. In Phortse there are both NCell and NTC towers so communicated is much improved. Dingboche, Chukung, Lobuche, Dzongla, Thangnak and Gokyo continue to be problem areas where you have to depend on wi-fi connectivity (see below).</div><p class="MsoNormal"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">WIFI</b></p><div style="text-align: left;">There are two types of wifi connectivity now – the old Everest Link cards offering Rs 3000 for 50 GB of data and the new Air Link offering Rs 700 for 24 hours use. Both are available at all lodges en route but I was told that the new Air Link is better even though it is more expensive.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLh8zfJ9K1PdfSBWMT3xmX4Ppi1DtgHZ6ctOX1UdxzlzSdbR5NGSsnSnGNCa6z_cI-Y11d9mx1jjJiipdijL_D3D2tiTS-pZYTIwGD5oGjbUIlJvFH_IILAoG3lxzft4LLhxaj9UIdfkMhBvBhMq0QHvopH4APc1CxEVw4WPce3oBKaAxqqKwHFrCETNuU/s825/air%20link.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="825" height="394" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLh8zfJ9K1PdfSBWMT3xmX4Ppi1DtgHZ6ctOX1UdxzlzSdbR5NGSsnSnGNCa6z_cI-Y11d9mx1jjJiipdijL_D3D2tiTS-pZYTIwGD5oGjbUIlJvFH_IILAoG3lxzft4LLhxaj9UIdfkMhBvBhMq0QHvopH4APc1CxEVw4WPce3oBKaAxqqKwHFrCETNuU/w640-h394/air%20link.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Costs</span></b></p><div style="text-align: left;">There has been an all-round increase in costs of both rooms and meals on the Everest trek. In Namche Bazar, for example, deluxe rooms with hot showers and en-suite toilets and would cost between $30 to $50 a night. In other locations like Monjo / Pangboche/ Devoche etc. rooms with attached toilets would be around $20-25 a night (exception is Rivendell Devoche $50 a night for their top end rooms). The cost of meals is also up – Black tea could range between Rs 100-200 per cup depending on the location and Dal Bhat (vegetarian) could also be between Rs 800-1200 depending on the location. In Namche a cup of high end coffee in the bakeries would be around Rs 500-600 and a slice of apple pie would be about the same. Daily budgets for meals only could be around $30-40 excluding beer, coke, sprite, apple pies, etc. Rooms would be extra depending on where you stay.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCxS80GUr85bJH_ZRSV6rPAeoHAsRTi_Wo-oqzBPk0HP25dWTVT66fLWasAN6tfe1tacNHPYOuje5S_i0agtfv1MiTSbrT32LW3woHT8eK18dNiebGXxV8NY94cNAIzbBO2vXPpUxHWXeL6gqn34Ja_tDlWZ5GlXlDxwtdfBEPZDeYSCA5isNXDZ3HFXjr/s2000/Everest%20and%20Khumbu%20Oct%20Nov%2023.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="2000" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCxS80GUr85bJH_ZRSV6rPAeoHAsRTi_Wo-oqzBPk0HP25dWTVT66fLWasAN6tfe1tacNHPYOuje5S_i0agtfv1MiTSbrT32LW3woHT8eK18dNiebGXxV8NY94cNAIzbBO2vXPpUxHWXeL6gqn34Ja_tDlWZ5GlXlDxwtdfBEPZDeYSCA5isNXDZ3HFXjr/w640-h512/Everest%20and%20Khumbu%20Oct%20Nov%2023.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Lodges</span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">There are lodges with attached toilets in all the main night stops now except Gorak Shep, Chukung, Dole, and Thagnak on the main trails. Dzongla too has the Green Valley Lodge with some rooms with atatched toilets. If you stop in the smaller places like Pangka, Dugla, etc you will also not get rooms with attached toilets.</div><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Helicopters</span></b></p><div style="text-align: left;">There are helicopters flying all day but the cost of helicopter flights have also increased significantly e.g. Namche to Kathmandu is $3200 (5 pax) and Gokyo to Kathmandu is $3500 (4 pax); Namche to Lukla is $750 (5 pax). For more helicopter information please contact Easy Flight Travel in Namche +977 9852850192.</div><p class="MsoNormal"><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejcZGZWGEvKO1MAAn8T_VNPX2_YLMtO1H2Hq1AGsYHQ1bhZRkH32Y6vHnTci3Ro2yp49OiHpe6gOuG80YrIW-PkhdpCnja0JBvgDJkKEsoJbdp39dg9rYwGgotbXKo9dBZNe2LzXapOGhDlEeuY_jLOpS09PtLako2aqP9z-UrmgMjfHiqkw-U-XUIx7n/s1500/IMG_6168-001.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="1500" height="432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgejcZGZWGEvKO1MAAn8T_VNPX2_YLMtO1H2Hq1AGsYHQ1bhZRkH32Y6vHnTci3Ro2yp49OiHpe6gOuG80YrIW-PkhdpCnja0JBvgDJkKEsoJbdp39dg9rYwGgotbXKo9dBZNe2LzXapOGhDlEeuY_jLOpS09PtLako2aqP9z-UrmgMjfHiqkw-U-XUIx7n/w640-h432/IMG_6168-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Trails</span></b></p><div style="text-align: left;">There has been an all round improvement in the trails due to the work done during covid by the Pasang Lhamu Municipality. I found that many of the sections which needed work earlier have been repaired like-<br />Phortse to Pangboche high route – railings on exposed sections, new steps.<br />Toktok to Benkar – new railings and steps<br />Pangka to first lake of Gokyo – New trail built on the exposed sections including railings<br />Sanasa to Mongla – new steps and railings on the first part of the trail out of Sanasa<br />Devoche to Pangboche – new bridge and also new trail up to the entrance gate of Pangboche</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpLwq-dh8w5n0jKkIEURM7AV7MOL32l-vYvbZyqZ5HUuWW2nMQoOKEE4UyqrOt8n87SYmpi9pUKnyWKuTr9sbEo0rYlIonlmnPhnooqz1Z51XcEOTWJKGET_GDqfAgLXDwfPLMbjHVWyDUaeWBQkncvFfvl_e6CEOysJuSn-gbdTVaKyzs4Mj_xjys_g92/s1500/IMG_6233-001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpLwq-dh8w5n0jKkIEURM7AV7MOL32l-vYvbZyqZ5HUuWW2nMQoOKEE4UyqrOt8n87SYmpi9pUKnyWKuTr9sbEo0rYlIonlmnPhnooqz1Z51XcEOTWJKGET_GDqfAgLXDwfPLMbjHVWyDUaeWBQkncvFfvl_e6CEOysJuSn-gbdTVaKyzs4Mj_xjys_g92/w480-h640/IMG_6233-001.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">Tengboche Monastery</b></div><div style="text-align: left;">There is an entrance ticket now to the monastery of Rs 300 per tourist. The monastery also has timings for entry and is not open all day any longer.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-W7YEBSl7l73BiryGKqNh3ekt1sSVOusL-8VA3AV8tk5wulx0OccE_FRex2P4WGrwDdzUeeKdeX9AI9itUSdbINdmWMYlXwfdjNWDiXkE2C5dVkyKhDl9CR1jZKXm8Y2Nxokv2Hb9nJzIWPjd2IZ4YJk2LaGCy9eCSv6soWAFZeYPw6I6FP6e2eWz06n/s2015/IMG_6303.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1367" data-original-width="2015" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH-W7YEBSl7l73BiryGKqNh3ekt1sSVOusL-8VA3AV8tk5wulx0OccE_FRex2P4WGrwDdzUeeKdeX9AI9itUSdbINdmWMYlXwfdjNWDiXkE2C5dVkyKhDl9CR1jZKXm8Y2Nxokv2Hb9nJzIWPjd2IZ4YJk2LaGCy9eCSv6soWAFZeYPw6I6FP6e2eWz06n/w640-h434/IMG_6303.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">For Indians – Indian Currency no longer welcome </span></b></div><div style="text-align: left;">As an after effect of the demonetization of Indian currency and also the withdrawal of Rs 2000 notes in India this year, Nepal is wary of accepting Indian currency. In Kathmandu the unofficial rate of exchange of Rs 100 Indian notes in 1.5 not 1.6 as per official India- Nepal exchange rate. Money changers also are reluctant to change Indian rupees. In the trekking lodges in the Khumbu most will not accept Indian rupees so Indian tourists should not bring Indian rupees in cash to Nepal. They would be better off drawing money from a Nepal ATM using their debit cards.</div><p class="MsoNormal">For more information about our treks and photo workshops please visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></p><p class="MsoNormal">For more photographs of the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-32548470317551218482023-12-12T10:46:00.012+05:302023-12-12T14:04:02.661+05:30Lukla to Tumlingtar Trek | October - November 2023<p> </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4RT8BZaBVMvwTXSQkMT_cHlOtn2VTT-rLI6B_jIHK0xYmjDgHOZqs2_73zaB2inv9zSO_lCrjU83jynPoKMRcR2rTIMp3PtbVrNkR1lZGFKvMPD6v0KOW2LaEBthno1f3xF1tGBOvsqv0zrFg3LUQl43qSwlD4ojAA09D3YSA474ReG4QvQWYSjmjGGiq/s1200/IMG_6480.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4RT8BZaBVMvwTXSQkMT_cHlOtn2VTT-rLI6B_jIHK0xYmjDgHOZqs2_73zaB2inv9zSO_lCrjU83jynPoKMRcR2rTIMp3PtbVrNkR1lZGFKvMPD6v0KOW2LaEBthno1f3xF1tGBOvsqv0zrFg3LUQl43qSwlD4ojAA09D3YSA474ReG4QvQWYSjmjGGiq/w640-h480/IMG_6480.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mighty Arun river at Karticke Ghat from the bridge - Tumlingtar is one hour from here by jeep</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #222222;"> </span><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b><i>"</i><i>For dreadfulness naught can excel</i></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>The prospect of Bung from Gudel;</b></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>And words die away on the tongue</b></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; text-align: center;"><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>When we look back at Gudel from Bung."</b></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #222222;"><b>H W Tilman - Nepal Himalaya 1950</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">After completion of our Ama Dablam Base Camp trek with our <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">South Col Expeditions</a> group I decided with one of my guides to head down to Tumlingtar from Lukla to assess the trek route as well as the new roads which had come in from different directions. I wanted to establish whether this route still remained a viable trekking entry or exit to the Solukhumbu region. The detailed day wise itinerary of my trek is given below.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">October 30 2023</b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> After seeing my group off on the Lukla to Kathmandu flight, we left Lukla 8 45 am following the trail next to the airport and headed down to Surkhe. In about thirty minutes we reached a bridge over a khola (river). The trail then remained flattish for 15 min passing some village houses and then there was a steep downhill section on steps to reach the junction for Chaurikharkha. Soon after we stopped at a sunny lodge for tea around 2300 m and before us we could see the long climb to Paiyan. We reached Surkhe about 10-15 am (1 hr 30 min walk from Lukla). On the way we passed signs advertising jeeps to Phaplu and Salleri and onwards to Kathmandu.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yaQI9S5HI8x-H6B5MXnXUqSGg4Dcr6Xb_g7H_3jeg2ZuEPUbFRtBQQswLUeE7mqOBiDtaBkEVT51XDy-MFukL4BG1tfpS9b0WjBLhUd_JfDCYeYIDmS6IRtXi8i_scKwU9AW8mOaB-6co9uKk813tN3-jB6GRg0i8f0DtrPxaBZh-0SsMU8DGQynfpQ0/s1200/IMG_6322.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1200" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8yaQI9S5HI8x-H6B5MXnXUqSGg4Dcr6Xb_g7H_3jeg2ZuEPUbFRtBQQswLUeE7mqOBiDtaBkEVT51XDy-MFukL4BG1tfpS9b0WjBLhUd_JfDCYeYIDmS6IRtXi8i_scKwU9AW8mOaB-6co9uKk813tN3-jB6GRg0i8f0DtrPxaBZh-0SsMU8DGQynfpQ0/w640-h512/IMG_6322.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span><a name='more'></a></span><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> We left Surkhe around 10 -30 am – initially there was a steep climb to Ratabane for 30 minutes – the trail then continued to climb in a fairly steep uphill for about an hour to the single lodge of Pakhepani at 2715 metres which we reached around 11 50 am and stopped again for a tea break. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> We left Pakhepani around 12 noon but our progress was slowed down by many mule caravans travelling both up and down to Lukla and Namche and down to Thamdanda which is now the road head for Phaplu. We entered the first lodges of Paiyan at 1 15 pm and the main lodges near the school at around 1 45 pm - it took us around 5 hours from Lukla with stops. The altitude of Paiyan was 2778 metres where we stopped for lunch. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRLyKJBTKbokJ7ScevXb6bARv_jCoD5k0VRVxV48GYi08844w-0AwV0HJK_ceid6B852qoTMRBoLQ3DCSh63Cd8MhHXAmbU_QS4_bH1a1fQdDLJMeu6WPnVLyUpxv2bCXX8UlbfnxoVxgwoEXV3XuNm7rZJ4I5ko5s-KIKQRzfrIMyKFe-4GQgK91kR-r/s1200/IMG_6323.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimRLyKJBTKbokJ7ScevXb6bARv_jCoD5k0VRVxV48GYi08844w-0AwV0HJK_ceid6B852qoTMRBoLQ3DCSh63Cd8MhHXAmbU_QS4_bH1a1fQdDLJMeu6WPnVLyUpxv2bCXX8UlbfnxoVxgwoEXV3XuNm7rZJ4I5ko5s-KIKQRzfrIMyKFe-4GQgK91kR-r/w640-h480/IMG_6323.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jeep road under construction between Thamdanda and Surke</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> After lunch we left Paiyan at 2 30 pm and the path followed the broad trail for about 15 min and then went up a very steep trail up the hill - apparently the old trail was closed as a new jeep road was being built to connect Thamdanda to Surkhe. There used to be along old sign on a rock with an arrow saying Arun Valley on the left of the trail but we never saw this sign or the junction. We could see parts of this new road under construction and possibly jeeps would soon be at Surkhe in the next year or so. This was one of the worst trails I had been on – it was extremely muddy, slippery and steep primarily due to the mule trains and their droppings making it very smelly as well -it took about 2 hours of difficult walking to reach the lone lodge of Khari la 3050 metres where we decided to stop for the night at a basic lodge. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">Lukla to Surke 1.5 hours; Surkhe to Pakhepani 1.5 hours; Pakhepani to Paiyan 2 hours; Paiyan to Khari la 2 hours. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>October 31 2023</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjGF5YLBaX2HTSDMupj29D4vmmSEBIvYuKlKul6uyfmkm0a9r0hTqRbVZQhPlbWSJyXOQgMnO_hwQ4mogSBfEwnEYoVxAvUY9_DlxyrHPJ7FRlCzYKB29MZQxWiapF1d_m7RlXmrhrkroF7MXRSpA2ueNE5Ui5Fuz5oAuoFqPs0RN2i-poKFcliPk1Yhp5/s1200/IMG_6336.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="1200" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjGF5YLBaX2HTSDMupj29D4vmmSEBIvYuKlKul6uyfmkm0a9r0hTqRbVZQhPlbWSJyXOQgMnO_hwQ4mogSBfEwnEYoVxAvUY9_DlxyrHPJ7FRlCzYKB29MZQxWiapF1d_m7RlXmrhrkroF7MXRSpA2ueNE5Ui5Fuz5oAuoFqPs0RN2i-poKFcliPk1Yhp5/w640-h378/IMG_6336.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The morning view from Khari La 3150m </td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We woke up in the morning to an excellent view from the lodge - you could see as far as Cho Oyu and Gyachung Kang in the Gokyo region. We had breakfast and then left around 7.20 am. We followed the new broad road for about 3 minutes until we found a short cut trail on the left through the forest to Kharte. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> It was a good and enjoyable walk and in one hour we reached a single tea shop losing altitude steadily. From here we could clearly see the Jiri trail and saw across the valley Kharikhola, Bupsa and the Traksindo pass on the hill. We continued to descend and reached the solitary Summit hotel very well located at Kharte in 1 hr 20 min 2635m altitude where we stopped in the sun for a cup of tea. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9A8Jas6x09zzwM9VlEcTeONpDyq6m9GAjRsdHTU_JjoQLhZo8wP4h8SRVcxcngGzr7VK588Mb4AnReGFrf1JbNBOg8MCwZ7wQdTL8UMLZkMjtJNJhnZ3nhyphenhyphenvp50Oa_6RzJcHe7uzQ_KvVyvjcPPLIR1X_jabEiLn49uJbX6rUkbRnxLMAAptpSURKHKK/s1200/IMG_6341.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ9A8Jas6x09zzwM9VlEcTeONpDyq6m9GAjRsdHTU_JjoQLhZo8wP4h8SRVcxcngGzr7VK588Mb4AnReGFrf1JbNBOg8MCwZ7wQdTL8UMLZkMjtJNJhnZ3nhyphenhyphenvp50Oa_6RzJcHe7uzQ_KvVyvjcPPLIR1X_jabEiLn49uJbX6rUkbRnxLMAAptpSURKHKK/w640-h480/IMG_6341.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Summit Hotel at Kharte - very good location and view</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #222222; text-align: left;"> We left Kharte around 9 am and the trail again plunged down to a river to cross bridge in 15 min, the second bridge 5 min after and another third bridge in 45 min. From this bridge, the trail climbed in 15 min reach a tea shop at 2525m and a mane wall. There was a stiff 30 minutes last climb which took us to Pangum 2900 m which we reached at 11 25 am and stopped for a cup of noodle soup. There were a number of lodges in Pangum all operational – we stopped at Hotel Pangum Inn.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #222222; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AvS_gKOhLGK1JOro2hGBZBFUw3YjhLlV9AViuUYkegAVxtHpsspa87tUDAQZrfsFwMWNShhyphenhyphenf-zunm9k9BBrEaqVVsvhgEh9YZLZ1dq0pDongxxsnCzYJdQj3wGJ_s7I2ZlBDOWGJIuTUfcc231qU-NQQ3lQEkihNU4YQViHobfSwMOhBY_eubifMhYI/s1200/IMG_6353.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AvS_gKOhLGK1JOro2hGBZBFUw3YjhLlV9AViuUYkegAVxtHpsspa87tUDAQZrfsFwMWNShhyphenhyphenf-zunm9k9BBrEaqVVsvhgEh9YZLZ1dq0pDongxxsnCzYJdQj3wGJ_s7I2ZlBDOWGJIuTUfcc231qU-NQQ3lQEkihNU4YQViHobfSwMOhBY_eubifMhYI/w640-h480/IMG_6353.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new jeep road and the old trail just below the pass of Pangum La towards Shibuche</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222; text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="color: #222222; text-align: left;">We departed at 12 noon and in 15 min met a jeep road under construction – the trail criss crossed this jeepable road a number of time climbing steadily and reached the pass of Pangum La ( Satu La) at 3175m. There was a large scale destruction of rhododendron forest near the top of the pass due to the road construction. - 30 min from the pass are two lodges at Tokphikharka 3000m on the road. We again stopped for tea at Everest Summit Lodge Topikharkha. We continued to follow the road for 10 min and then suddenly the road just ended in a dead end. Next to that was the trail and descending steeply we reached the lodges of Shibuche - Namaste and Zambala are the two lodges of choice. We reached Shibuje at 1.40 pm altitude 2800m and had a long lunch break at Namaste as dal bhat had to be prepared. </span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCbcFu4N_ViYiceBE-T9kQPrjwAoiLRu7I56HYJ2RSLZwM55gIl7JG-si1WC03zOwYEiQtaP5kobPrxqbWWdzRv-NK-VBMRyCedhmIsEL6M8URqE2vX2GfmbzjfL7rXIEUzCET-wSXXoF4HugE5_6guohZmDBAIwj91kwCxCjSKmsDmHxZk8wbAYjEtqI/s1200/IMG_6359.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoCbcFu4N_ViYiceBE-T9kQPrjwAoiLRu7I56HYJ2RSLZwM55gIl7JG-si1WC03zOwYEiQtaP5kobPrxqbWWdzRv-NK-VBMRyCedhmIsEL6M8URqE2vX2GfmbzjfL7rXIEUzCET-wSXXoF4HugE5_6guohZmDBAIwj91kwCxCjSKmsDmHxZk8wbAYjEtqI/w640-h480/IMG_6359.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Namaste lodge at Shibuche - it is now possible to reach here in one day from Bupsa and head to Mera Peak</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"> </span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We left Shibuje after lunch at 2-55 pm – there was a knee crunching descent to 2000 m at Inkhu khola near the bridge – there were two local homes there more like porters bhattis - we stayed there in one of them – there was no electricity or solar. We reached Inkhu khola at 4 40 pm – we could see the bridge below us and on the opposite side across river is Gaikharkha.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">Khari La to Pangum 4 to 4.5 hours; Pangum to Shibuche 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs; Shibuje to Inkhu Khola 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">November 1 2023</b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> We left the Inkhu Khola lodge at 7 30 am crossed the river on a sturdy suspension bridge and then started the climb steeply. We passed a solitary house and then reach another two houses in 45 min – we were told that this spot is called Gaikharka at 2265m. From here it was a relentless 1 hr up to 2680m at Najidingma which we reached around 9 am and stopped for tea at one of the lodges – there are three lodges here and all functional – one of them Najing Namaste Lodge was building a new set of rooms in cottage style. There is no phone signal at Inkhu Khola and also at Najindingma. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRggZVa51z8eipl4yvA8NEPXi2mHMGK6amcmUI45PNFB-u5rD9WaxUdYpSkyq1ncdgqByDi8nyZv_cBeouBJBLIgug1zuP3JMyud9g666S0na-Iw_Hvxq0GzpzVb7wmw6TahtkTgem_PFGQ8aWQZ0Wa2FXo5Qk0Js_wMOrCI1F25-zgjYHc7LV1EPceyl1/s1200/IMG_6377.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRggZVa51z8eipl4yvA8NEPXi2mHMGK6amcmUI45PNFB-u5rD9WaxUdYpSkyq1ncdgqByDi8nyZv_cBeouBJBLIgug1zuP3JMyud9g666S0na-Iw_Hvxq0GzpzVb7wmw6TahtkTgem_PFGQ8aWQZ0Wa2FXo5Qk0Js_wMOrCI1F25-zgjYHc7LV1EPceyl1/w640-h480/IMG_6377.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> We left Najin at 9 25 am – the path was initially level and then climbs very steeply in the last 30 min to the Surkie la at 3065m in about 1 hr 15 min from Najin. We reached the pass at 10 45 am - beautiful views over the middle hills and rhododendron forests. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We left the pass around 11am - 15 min below we passed some local houses and one basic lodge Silichong view lodge at 2960m where we stopped for tea. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> From the lodge at 11- 30am we followed a big broad downhill path through beautiful rhododendron forests and in one hour reach an old chorten where a new house is being built 2680m. From here it is about 30 minutes down to Khiraule where a new Gompa is being built. We reached Khiraule at around 1 pm and stopped for lunch at the lodge near the gompa. altitude 2540m. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge7k2bgl-Zc-1e45IcC4kTMDM9oRxCAwweGsgUueYK2OJJPTrahl1_Ir2fcf2oer7TOMcBBMUkuC4LBKzTiJCVrWiGWXeFlY3dELXHfI76tkrldVHtmHJ3P4IWS2DtcBtsLm-RxOfda0NY2WzO4sffXnAANrCpsJO_7ifY2PIdqFAjuS4zNJChs95CwuEf/s1200/IMG_6390-001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge7k2bgl-Zc-1e45IcC4kTMDM9oRxCAwweGsgUueYK2OJJPTrahl1_Ir2fcf2oer7TOMcBBMUkuC4LBKzTiJCVrWiGWXeFlY3dELXHfI76tkrldVHtmHJ3P4IWS2DtcBtsLm-RxOfda0NY2WzO4sffXnAANrCpsJO_7ifY2PIdqFAjuS4zNJChs95CwuEf/w640-h480/IMG_6390-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old chorten and mane wall on the trail just above Khiraule</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">From the lodge at Khiraule many new roads criss crossing the valley can be seen. The road from Bung to Khiraule is operational and we saw motor bikes coming up to Khiraule using this road. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">After a very good dal bhat at the gompa lodge, we left Khiraule at 2 -15pm for Bung. The trail and new road criss cross many times and you have to be careful to take the old trail when it appears as otherwise you will be on the much longer road - we reached upper Bung around 4-15 pm but the old lodges like Kala Pattar and Mera Peak had vanished near the school. The new jeep road had a whole lot of motor bikes and jeeps parked including repair shops in upper Bung - terribly dusty and depressing- there were some porter like bazaar hotels which also looked totally unattractive on this main street - there was no check post either to check the permits because we been told that we may have to take the Makalu Barun permit. With the new road the entire appearance of Bung had changed. We continued down towards the river hoping to get a lodge at lower Bung - the absence of trekking traffic had also killed the old trekking lodges of Bung. We found a Nepali hotel Namaste 10 minutes from the bridge and with no option stayed there at 1488m altitude.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">Inkhu Khola to Najindingma 1hr 30 min to 1 hr 45 min; Najindingma to Khiraule 4 hours; Khiraule to Bung 2 hrs (upper Bung) and 2.5 hours lower Bung.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">November 2 2023 </b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We left Lower Bung at 7. 20 am and walked down to river 1350m in 20 min - we then climbed up a beautiful trail next to a fast flowing stream all the way up to 1975m reach Gudel at 9 30 am. This was a spectacular walk with views of Bung across the valley and the gorge of the mighty Hinku khola below. We found Gudel to be a beautiful village with many children going to school – the three lodges here all good unlike Bung – Kopila, Namaste and Sunrise. We made a long stop at Gudel sitting in the sun outside Kopila lodge and having tea and biscuits. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_6GuOTlfWM17B2PSRZc7T0zinPSs5cBc5qYAj2P7QJtVf_I-SO6yRnWxHAyia6N_7Z1msyO34N_1u0XDwGr4reihLMg6Y_TSRclMznHoToUIAAnOawKOHT3t5BJKsSsXM91OjEUOfTSCTdY5jFKf5EW_7cafW8PHxXl3YwUEJB4G4X7XaJ4kQJZWPnmb/s1200/IMG_6412-001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX_6GuOTlfWM17B2PSRZc7T0zinPSs5cBc5qYAj2P7QJtVf_I-SO6yRnWxHAyia6N_7Z1msyO34N_1u0XDwGr4reihLMg6Y_TSRclMznHoToUIAAnOawKOHT3t5BJKsSsXM91OjEUOfTSCTdY5jFKf5EW_7cafW8PHxXl3YwUEJB4G4X7XaJ4kQJZWPnmb/w640-h480/IMG_6412-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typical house at Gudel with the signs to Bung and the Salpa Pass</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> We left Gudel 11 30 am for Sanam. The trail climbs to the top of the village through very pretty terraced fields and then skirts the hill and then begins a steady climb with a view of a prosperous Rai village below the trail. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz7wvbwjiIVSB9oT9wEikNKRwG0QXuVLKkf4cVPkXknpMy9EejMXqncowMpapashCbqAvv5-ROuZQR4wTrceF0_n1lgB9u3IokGJCmKWCgprrruiHO5ujX3OVi0AvJt3Wy420EnmGzn9cazTCuhJmhq-eW61I5Xz_3VaWRPtA6OE6AhhXBsWpQn0zABfAI/s1200/IMG_6420-001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz7wvbwjiIVSB9oT9wEikNKRwG0QXuVLKkf4cVPkXknpMy9EejMXqncowMpapashCbqAvv5-ROuZQR4wTrceF0_n1lgB9u3IokGJCmKWCgprrruiHO5ujX3OVi0AvJt3Wy420EnmGzn9cazTCuhJmhq-eW61I5Xz_3VaWRPtA6OE6AhhXBsWpQn0zABfAI/w640-h480/IMG_6420-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The village of Gudel - one of the nicest villages on the trail</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> After 2 hours of steady climbing it meets the main jeep road at around 2425m. We followed this road for around 30 min to reach the small village of Nimchola 2550m with a small Gompa where we took a tea break. However, this jeep road not functioning due to many landslides but has sadly obliterated the walking trail. Fom here in 15 min the road reached a school and here the road ends - the trail then follows the old forest path for about one hour from the school climbing steeply at times until finally we reach Sanam at around 4 pm altitude 2850m. As we entered Sanam we found a brand new lodge no name with a blue roof nice new rooms clean toilet run by a Sherpa couple - this was the best lodge of the trek for us and is highly recommended. At the time of our visit the lodge had no nameplate the Sherpa couple were trying to find a name! </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybiKsvZAoZgllHP2a1rFSWmEbuAJ_pDO4Ew-S23ZMKwgqw2PSXphyphenhyphenIWOUVQwnzxZ52a4uqBLvrwKYeNQjHo3jG_i4na3e8jL2y8qXMRV051s5t-eaYYQWNSoDqjexR1D5DWk6YGg7E9P21eeKonBkdI0YxzmQPyE7cRCT8IhvD31yKXKOD7DA-7oBJd6S/s1200/IMG_6429.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjybiKsvZAoZgllHP2a1rFSWmEbuAJ_pDO4Ew-S23ZMKwgqw2PSXphyphenhyphenIWOUVQwnzxZ52a4uqBLvrwKYeNQjHo3jG_i4na3e8jL2y8qXMRV051s5t-eaYYQWNSoDqjexR1D5DWk6YGg7E9P21eeKonBkdI0YxzmQPyE7cRCT8IhvD31yKXKOD7DA-7oBJd6S/w640-h480/IMG_6429.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waterfall on the trail between Nimchola and Sanam</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">Bung to Gudel 2 hrs Gudel to Nimchola 2 hr 30 min Nimchola to Sanam 1 hr 15 min we stopped in Gudel for 2 hrs</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">November 3 2023</b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> After the best night on the whole trek, we left Sanam at 6am walking past a few lodges and then through the forest – a flattish walk and in 40 min reach a blue roof house with a sign pointing to Sanam and Chachaling. This is Wacka altitude 2712m from here the trail climbs to the pass. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4IbVGwr2pTge6IGF9JTj_N5tCN4QQHP67tl7a4wHt9WJJWmW4fjwaPC9V-7KzYh9RXc4IbLjCE5-lB5wtWChKpbwui3d67d6m_UXjpCpTI03Uiwn_MoWT1pvdR6ALUzKqMaj-9W7OMkEmWx3MhaFIXL7EiSvzAOzPnCg6wqGvwrpgTLBoG4gStSnnt-79/s1200/IMG_6439.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4IbVGwr2pTge6IGF9JTj_N5tCN4QQHP67tl7a4wHt9WJJWmW4fjwaPC9V-7KzYh9RXc4IbLjCE5-lB5wtWChKpbwui3d67d6m_UXjpCpTI03Uiwn_MoWT1pvdR6ALUzKqMaj-9W7OMkEmWx3MhaFIXL7EiSvzAOzPnCg6wqGvwrpgTLBoG4gStSnnt-79/w640-h480/IMG_6439.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><span style="color: #222222;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></p> We left Wacka at 6 50 am and in about 20 minutes reached a huge rock with a sign 1 hr Salpa and and arrow. In reality its about 1.5 hours from here. The trail then came to a bridge in 15 min at 2900m from here trail climbs steeply through the forest until it reaches the pass at 8 45 am 3350 metres.</span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5vE-qKVKbq9oKKYSRp3m4nSloHC_V9u2CI2XzhHt7CpTAKc_yQ_aPe8FW2MmAAiAOvMq24dCl8It4dx5plgqTuJcXEJy8oTWnos8iV1q9xJtBezb_tADE5kf4rCVj8DXWVER-e750HW_eoNZ6ToGCX5ZBVHwCwcVJ1FTEIxaZpfqmD7VtkiCl1m9tQsjA/s1200/IMG_6451.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="852" data-original-width="1200" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5vE-qKVKbq9oKKYSRp3m4nSloHC_V9u2CI2XzhHt7CpTAKc_yQ_aPe8FW2MmAAiAOvMq24dCl8It4dx5plgqTuJcXEJy8oTWnos8iV1q9xJtBezb_tADE5kf4rCVj8DXWVER-e750HW_eoNZ6ToGCX5ZBVHwCwcVJ1FTEIxaZpfqmD7VtkiCl1m9tQsjA/w640-h454/IMG_6451.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The old chorten on the Salpa Pass</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> From here there is a view towards Numbur and Karyolong – it is the watershed of the Solukhumbu district to the north and the Bhojpur district to the south. There is huge chorten at the pass and a tea shop as well. After a break for tea and biscuits we left the pass at 9 25 am heading down steeply through pristine rhododendron forest and reached a meadow with some shacks at 3050m possibly Guranse in 45 min. It was deserted. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;"> We sat on the meadow in the sun for some time and then left Guranse at 10 15 am reached Bilbate 2900m in 20 min – there were a few houses here and a local Mera hotel for porters and tea. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikdhQtUTFVtXjZYwI4Llsyl1Fmazr5pKTCiBvS5xr2vNtLuV7xMxObSkOjAy1xe2faXQRrWdAMOhImBN9LGKM2It3dJW1P86roSB65CciUM7pSs0R9cG-LqgvZkmNbM_49iHlnvSYXLLbGOaDgIT7sqIZtZGMpyuAixlC1J4-_-Ps03nUPEvW43oKXEfCs/s1200/IMG_6459.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikdhQtUTFVtXjZYwI4Llsyl1Fmazr5pKTCiBvS5xr2vNtLuV7xMxObSkOjAy1xe2faXQRrWdAMOhImBN9LGKM2It3dJW1P86roSB65CciUM7pSs0R9cG-LqgvZkmNbM_49iHlnvSYXLLbGOaDgIT7sqIZtZGMpyuAixlC1J4-_-Ps03nUPEvW43oKXEfCs/w640-h480/IMG_6459.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The forest between Bilbate and Thulo Phokte</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We left Bilbate at 10 40 am – the trail climbed up and skirted a hillside for about 20 minutes before re-entering the forest and then proceeded steeply downhill. It was a very beautiful walk to Tholo Phoktey through rhododendron forests and a lot of flowers as well. Thankfully there was no road construction on this side as yet so we could really enjoy the walk. Finally after losing altitude steadily we stopped at Thulo Phoktey 2325 metres for lunch at 12-30 pm where we found two lodges, both very basic. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9oPIu3dFJtBjWzPaLDXCdR0wjzRMXb9FX65IW5NeqqThvVwXST7ps5fWO5eNaB6syOU3txz-dVEinxy1GGP6mjvR-ygwHn1kywAu9cro-Y5xTAgpQgS40o8fVPEl-w4GzNPU26L-8FFwUCgZU9OHIhznsTrv3ZJnrd7C44kfbHfkyaORGGda-7Zlw04IR/s1200/IMG_6472-001.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9oPIu3dFJtBjWzPaLDXCdR0wjzRMXb9FX65IW5NeqqThvVwXST7ps5fWO5eNaB6syOU3txz-dVEinxy1GGP6mjvR-ygwHn1kywAu9cro-Y5xTAgpQgS40o8fVPEl-w4GzNPU26L-8FFwUCgZU9OHIhznsTrv3ZJnrd7C44kfbHfkyaORGGda-7Zlw04IR/w640-h480/IMG_6472-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We continued down the hill after lunch through typical villages houses with orange marigolds in full bloom and children playing the courtyards. It was also paddy harvesting season so work was going on in the fields in the mellow autumn sunshine. Far below we could hear the horn of jeeps and trucks making their way down the Arun valley on the road to Tumlingtar. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We left after lunch 1-45 pm reached Jaubari Phedi 1535m in about 90 minutes in a knee crunching descent on steps. This was the of the trail – there was a jeepable track from here all the way down the valley. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">Sanam to Salpa pass 2.5 to 3 hours; Salpa Pass to Bilbate 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min Bilbate to Thulo Pokte 2 hours; Thulo Phokte to Jaubari Phedi 90 minutes.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">November 4 2023</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b></b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdsxWJp8nJ1JJSTem1n8scASPElst_okCNuAhxCPgGsiQIuddgwkjP64QmM5JWFn2FrTi7xu0a7jV9SxWZEmcQ72YMZYMbHUlaNSVla1XdQoGpQ1QZw3Rxj3hBCGNwfNZ8FCyjVc70NqI7ZX8Ac0HSYjIJBqF-WxvPDRwefN9r54PUPcqWkM0jPimatLCp/s1200/IMG_6477.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdsxWJp8nJ1JJSTem1n8scASPElst_okCNuAhxCPgGsiQIuddgwkjP64QmM5JWFn2FrTi7xu0a7jV9SxWZEmcQ72YMZYMbHUlaNSVla1XdQoGpQ1QZw3Rxj3hBCGNwfNZ8FCyjVc70NqI7ZX8Ac0HSYjIJBqF-WxvPDRwefN9r54PUPcqWkM0jPimatLCp/w640-h480/IMG_6477.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The jeep stop at Jaubari Phedi</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We left Jaubari at 7 05 am by in a local jeep for Karticki ghat where we needed to cross the Arun river and change jeep. It was a nerve wracking 4 hour drive to Karticke reached at around 11 am. From here we crossed the mighty Arun river in a beautiful sea green colour to another jeep which brought us to Tumlingtar in one hour. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGHm7BsgNfWIVMpNr7aPXOh2nSf08YowTpPcGvbfI1fYapy0fKMNu1GWzZAuIyiMD3mgUNgfyw_5XajqBant9a8bNe3QJqaQ6G4koF113_dpryEm0YacVHX1SRb6OAzOXkikVjjVr_63EKzYRL2JPh7h44jJ9SLiHNXy36GkPbGSu3SxgOOfS92TM_QkpQ/s1200/IMG_6478.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGHm7BsgNfWIVMpNr7aPXOh2nSf08YowTpPcGvbfI1fYapy0fKMNu1GWzZAuIyiMD3mgUNgfyw_5XajqBant9a8bNe3QJqaQ6G4koF113_dpryEm0YacVHX1SRb6OAzOXkikVjjVr_63EKzYRL2JPh7h44jJ9SLiHNXy36GkPbGSu3SxgOOfS92TM_QkpQ/w640-h480/IMG_6478.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The morning 7 am jeep to Karticke Ghat from Jaubari Phedi about 4 hours drive</td></tr></tbody></table><b style="color: #2b00fe;"><br /></b><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">Road Construction on the Lukla to Tumlingtar trek </b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">There are a lot of roads on all sides which have already impacted this trek. I give below a list of roads some complete and some under construction. However, I gathered from the locals that there are no public jeeps operating as yet on some of these roads- mainly motor bikes are using them. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">1.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Salleri (Phaplu) to Dipli Ghat 3.5 hours; Dipli Ghat to Sotang 1 hour; Sotang to Bung 1.5 hours. Currently the bridge on the Dudh Kosi river has been washed away at Dipli Ghat but a temporary road is under construction.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">2.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bung to Khiraule 45 min by jeep we found a lot of motor bikes parked both in Khiraule and Bung.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">3.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Bung to Cheskam – 40 minutes</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">4.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Cheskam to Gudel – 1.5 hours</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">5.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Kharikhola to Pangum – road under construction not complete in full</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">6.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pangum to Shibuje – incomplete road under construction</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">7.<span style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Gudel to Nimchala – 40 minutes by jeep road ends at a school soon after that</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Mobile Connectivity</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">We found that other than a few pockets like Inkhu Khola, Gaikharka, Najindingma, Sanam the entire trail had good mobile signals both NTC and Ncell and in some places 4G signal as well. There are new mobile towers in Gudel giving good mobile coverage to that area.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Lodges</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkgWtjeuMQ6glLwuTJBlDwTQv4VC_r5XLSF3zOyKAVJ6_Qk2yjZZm_AuQBRQX1L4JxX3-V7sVYQ4LBhy-YmvjwXL5chyphenhypheneO0Gk0qLm5mG6YOH7t0Gtt2t3G5lDzWyj3rMYvv5XrVyP-X8EMb2iQab6bVijVFrIdlFioUbmRlT4DuoRZUZX2SZW-wAywWPG/s1200/IMG_6330.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHkgWtjeuMQ6glLwuTJBlDwTQv4VC_r5XLSF3zOyKAVJ6_Qk2yjZZm_AuQBRQX1L4JxX3-V7sVYQ4LBhy-YmvjwXL5chyphenhypheneO0Gk0qLm5mG6YOH7t0Gtt2t3G5lDzWyj3rMYvv5XrVyP-X8EMb2iQab6bVijVFrIdlFioUbmRlT4DuoRZUZX2SZW-wAywWPG/w640-h480/IMG_6330.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The traditional trekking lodge still exist at Paiyan</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">The traditional trekking lodges still exist at Paiyan, Pangum, ShIbuje, Najindingma, Gudel and Sanam. At Bung the old lodges near the school like Kala Pattar and Mera have closed down – we could not find them. There are some Nepali hotels (porters bhattis) in Bung – we used one of them Namaste in lower Bung. In Khari la there is one lodge only which is functional. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">However at other places like Inku Khola, Gaikharka, Thulo Phokte and Jaubari Phedi basic Nepal hotel exist which are not really suitable for trekking groups. The toilets are also rudimentary without running water in these places. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Costs</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">The cost of meals and a night stay varied between NPR 1500 to 2000 a day ( US$10 to 15) a day. There were no menus in many of the places and basically dal-bhat. Noodle soup, chappatis, eggs, chowmein were available. Some places did not have a facilty to charge phones or electricity/solar.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Other Trekkers on the trail</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">In the initial walk near Paiyan and Pangum we met some trekkers who were heading towards Mera peak but after this we met one solo trekker coming up from Tumlingtar and heading towards Lukla. At Gudel we met a Czech group also heading to Mera Peak. Other than this there were long walks through the forests for several hours where we sometimes passed a local or two.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Future of the Arun Valley route</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5aSajidTNZ-DC65iKdhdukQH4NnBDBqI3Tsd91LI_CAAZCvh81S8pCRNiUmT4RRYazePNHQt991rFhxDg4a3pSOdclG5kYBcIwrzk9XXPR2Qb0kKe012xneNG4-cz3-Tvjo3rPODOayFZeivFhgs1mWD1WgLhINC6BN8Qj8-BsAGvPaIa2Qef676_pb2P/s1200/IMG_6367.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5aSajidTNZ-DC65iKdhdukQH4NnBDBqI3Tsd91LI_CAAZCvh81S8pCRNiUmT4RRYazePNHQt991rFhxDg4a3pSOdclG5kYBcIwrzk9XXPR2Qb0kKe012xneNG4-cz3-Tvjo3rPODOayFZeivFhgs1mWD1WgLhINC6BN8Qj8-BsAGvPaIa2Qef676_pb2P/w640-h480/IMG_6367.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The suspension bridge over the Inkhu Khola</td></tr></tbody></table><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">In my humble opinion, this route though beautiful does not have much of a future as an exit from the Everest region or an entry into Everest from Tumlingtar. The walk from Khiraule to Bung is not pleasant any more thanks to the road and the difficulty in finding the old trail which will soon disappear once the road becomes fully operational. Near Pangum too very soon you will be able to drive up from Kharikhola further truncating the trek. Those trekkers going to Mera Peak may continue on this route as far as Shibuche and then head onwards to Mera but the traditional route Lukla-Tumlingtar will alas not find many takers. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><span style="color: #222222;">For more photographs of the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a> and for details about our treks and photo workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white;"><br /></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0 Arun Valley Nepal28.394857 84.1240079999999890.084623163821152758 48.967757999999989 56.70509083617884 119.28025799999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-70147077460578395742023-11-23T14:30:00.001+05:302023-12-01T10:22:33.691+05:30Ladakh | Phyang to Hunder Trek across the Lasermo La by Ashesh Ambasta<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-mIwbYYlFE0HoDAgsEJ1nYZ011KVgLu_X-M3taJqJXFld5G52QHy9HCX8n5iTJ6F1ra_DK3leBJ7m9QKxzCuokot_7Px9GZ9O7rnYDFEBurHfNuFuv1lcAWbGl9dysGA9eqa6ONdbwIXN-dK1Zhl_qt9wVyRMO0E3OaKQ0k-5n9YnqV5iNUl1t8hicsky/s1413/PLH%2016.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1413" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-mIwbYYlFE0HoDAgsEJ1nYZ011KVgLu_X-M3taJqJXFld5G52QHy9HCX8n5iTJ6F1ra_DK3leBJ7m9QKxzCuokot_7Px9GZ9O7rnYDFEBurHfNuFuv1lcAWbGl9dysGA9eqa6ONdbwIXN-dK1Zhl_qt9wVyRMO0E3OaKQ0k-5n9YnqV5iNUl1t8hicsky/w640-h400/PLH%2016.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2 Sept 2023: Atop Lasermo La. Left to right -- Prasad, Ashesh, and Kunsal, and Stanzin (kneeling) posing for the regulation photo, clicked by Glory! </td></tr></tbody></table><p> <b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Ashesh Ambasta </span></b>is a experienced trekker who has been with <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">South Col Expeditions</a> on numerous treks including many in Ladakh. In this guest post he recounts his experiences on the recently concluded Phyang to Hunder trek across the 5440 m high Lasermo La - from the Indus to the Nubra valley.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">I am sure that trails in Ladakh never fail
to amaze and delight trekkers. For starters, it is possible to experience what
can truly be called wilderness treks barely a few hours from Leh. How cool is
that? Then, there are the breathtaking vistas. Scarps with steep acclivities
rise to dizzying heights on either side of the trails, which usually follow
water courses resulting in narrow – and the only – bands of vegetation for
miles on end, combined with multi-hued slope surfaces, all conspiring to produce
enchanted, fairy-tale panoramas. Not
surprisingly, even though the Phyang to Hundar trek was my fifth in Ladakh with
South Col Expeditions, the anticipation
gripped me well before I took off from Delhi. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>30<sup>th</sup> August to 1<sup>st</sup>
September, 2023</b></span><o:p></o:p></span></u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">A fitting start to the trek was a visit to
the sixteenth century Phyang monastery. It falls on the way to Murubok, where
the road ends and the trail begins. The gompa itself is inspiring and we were
fortunate to arrive at a time when the resident monks were in prayer in the
main hall. The sonorous chanting lulled
us into a meditative and peaceful repose, an appropriate mood for the trek. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOz1SGGcjwj7jYMo5JOMH_HaLOLBPtrOBpkYHyrZxl80zZJhzl6QzOeVHn-eHP1Xx_dbYZXJFlvnQOii0fRgxxtA64B5-YlJMEtjAm3EdvJN0DwpfnqvzzfTlsa_Wvsy5LzvpX-ooZ36EFcxwHkczoqNuWVIPUkAtjrhEN_Fr05JJ7vhxAZMFOIc6mMsUl/s1299/PLH%2001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1299" height="436" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOz1SGGcjwj7jYMo5JOMH_HaLOLBPtrOBpkYHyrZxl80zZJhzl6QzOeVHn-eHP1Xx_dbYZXJFlvnQOii0fRgxxtA64B5-YlJMEtjAm3EdvJN0DwpfnqvzzfTlsa_Wvsy5LzvpX-ooZ36EFcxwHkczoqNuWVIPUkAtjrhEN_Fr05JJ7vhxAZMFOIc6mMsUl/w640-h436/PLH%2001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">30 Aug 2023: A propitious start to the Phyang-to-Hunder trek is a visit to the 16th century Phyang monastery. This gompa is on the way to Murubok, where the road ends and the walking trail begins.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p class="MsoNormal">The initial three days of the trail
comprised a steady climb of a total of 18 kilometres and an altitude gain of
2,800 ft to South BC Lasermo (16,300 ft). Camp 1 was at Murubok (13,630 ft),
followed by Phyang Phu (15,560 ft) on Day 2. The trail flanked the left bank of
what one presumes, was the Phyang river.
The dry, gravelly path was broken occasionally by grassy meadows. Throughout the route, the trans-Himalayan
Stok Kangri range lay behind us. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4coPWTFgw3dNshyphenhyphenesnaMbIjmb6Z6cJ3yZDDRBh-pNS7Q6triRs1YMZ-lNSZkHY2LMj1nraiePEsA5FCgP_qzTmSeuCojzhm5z-kyF8f03fgY0SDOjA6p5VPyFi_hN2Vli5k3Mreh93tXKhbgPhNrZ3EcU5rPjga7cJSP5kmBG_NJO512pknzmOkUoX5ah/s1413/PLH%2005.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1413" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4coPWTFgw3dNshyphenhyphenesnaMbIjmb6Z6cJ3yZDDRBh-pNS7Q6triRs1YMZ-lNSZkHY2LMj1nraiePEsA5FCgP_qzTmSeuCojzhm5z-kyF8f03fgY0SDOjA6p5VPyFi_hN2Vli5k3Mreh93tXKhbgPhNrZ3EcU5rPjga7cJSP5kmBG_NJO512pknzmOkUoX5ah/w640-h400/PLH%2005.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">31 Aug 2023: The strenuous climb leading up from the Phyang river towards Phyang Phu.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p class="MsoNormal">The campsites were all picturesque, located
either on the riverbank or quite close to it. The only (minor) setback was when
we found that the water source at the regular campsite of Phyang Phu had dried
up. In fact, both Stanzin and Glory, our two guides, frequently remarked on the
gradual retreat of several water bodies and the diminished flow of water in the
streams and rivers along the trail.
Consequently, we had to walk several kilometres more than planned to reach
a suitable campsite. But this turned out to be a blessing in disguise since,
post lunch, a large herd of bharals descended to the bank across from us and
remained there for several hours, allowing us loads of time to click pictures!
These mountain goats are very shy, and it is not easy to catch a sighting. Talk
about silver linings! </p><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTW6319vCyIBPNkcsUIwY7UcfFvYuuJo7FgQAiFUTgMG975vSY2aVWHHCZe5tz-4FEXV7fg7QfBj2ezyg37OlUwIWjXnROWLZtLaflbJRmAZtg5D4a3W17czENmUXCqQ1V1gniIwynmhzd5V03x9ZKvr1KTEgqahzeUdZlMgUmAfy7YXyjzXjDNGrbaqFt/s1543/PLH%2006.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1543" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTW6319vCyIBPNkcsUIwY7UcfFvYuuJo7FgQAiFUTgMG975vSY2aVWHHCZe5tz-4FEXV7fg7QfBj2ezyg37OlUwIWjXnROWLZtLaflbJRmAZtg5D4a3W17czENmUXCqQ1V1gniIwynmhzd5V03x9ZKvr1KTEgqahzeUdZlMgUmAfy7YXyjzXjDNGrbaqFt/w640-h366/PLH%2006.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">31 Aug 2023: A large herd of bharals -- shy creatures and the snow leopard's favourite nibble-- had descended close to the bank across from our camp at Phyan Phu.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><u><span lang="EN-GB"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>2<sup>nd</sup> September 2023</b></span></span></u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">The fourth day dawned clear, bright, and
sunny. It was our big day – crossing the Lasermo La. Clearly, Lady Luck was on our side! Sunrise
at camp was by 6 am, which was wonderful since we could enjoy a warm breakfast
and make an early start at 6.30 am. The
initial hour involved a steady but gentle climb, the trail snaking through
stones and boulders strewn across the riverbed. But for the cairns placed at
strategic locations, it would have been impossible to locate the route. The
twisting and tortuous track then veered to the right of the valley into a wide
defile, which seemed more like a scene from hell – a chaotic mess of broken
rock segments and huge boulders that had been tumbling down the two slopes over
the years. The right flank soared up to end in an ice-covered ridge. The left
flank, the side leading to the pass, was formed of gravel and brittle
rock. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">Half a kilometre into the defile led to a
sort of knoll, an adjunct to the main slope on our left. Given the altitude,
the climb up this hill – of not more than 200 ft – was quite strenuous. In
retrospect, for me this may have been the most demanding part of the trail,
given the elevation and the steep gradient of the slope.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">The ascent levelled to a small flattish
top. From here started a steady uphill traverse to the pass, no steep slopes on
the way but just a steady increase in altitude.
The main challenge was to regulate our breathing to the rhythm of our
steps. The narrow track, of dry, brittle mud and gravel, was also exposed to a
sharp downhill drop on our right. About 50 ft below the pass, the trail,
steeper than what we had covered so far, zigzagged its way up till we crested the
top. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhArLI8VoKKDYTLaW1PjQznypl-7qwRv7uEQ_pgf01QUhXwgCUTRrI3DI_JFCE7Z35rifRx2oyoaErda9JkgixJj5VS0TjNaYugtpSbmuOM2ZhcFk9oaHRwEchJO4pcy3fx5p7ktbiqyqRr0EsO1c45ImZQfq20vbZJMjWVEpvk6ZViStZiPo8JfDS0Z1ac/s1350/PLH%2008.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1350" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhArLI8VoKKDYTLaW1PjQznypl-7qwRv7uEQ_pgf01QUhXwgCUTRrI3DI_JFCE7Z35rifRx2oyoaErda9JkgixJj5VS0TjNaYugtpSbmuOM2ZhcFk9oaHRwEchJO4pcy3fx5p7ktbiqyqRr0EsO1c45ImZQfq20vbZJMjWVEpvk6ZViStZiPo8JfDS0Z1ac/w640-h420/PLH%2008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: left;">2 Sept 2023: The beginning of the climb to Lasermo La. Scarps with multi-hued surfaces and steep slopes rising to dizzying heights -- stunning landscapes common on most treks in Ladakh. Stanzin (in the foreground) waiting for the rest of the group, seen on the trail below him. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">The pass, with strings of prayer flags
fluttering in the strong, icy cold wind, is a long saddle with the Lasermo
glacier on the other side. And, as all the travel guides mention, we were on a
cusp, flanked by the Indus and the Shyok valleys. In the far distance, on a clear day the
Karakoram range is visible through a shimmering white haze. </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">After taking the regulation photos, we
began the descent. The first part of the
downhill climb was a gradual for a couple of kilometres through the snow field
of the glacier. Fortunately, because of the early start, the snow was still
crisp, crunching comfortingly underfoot. Then followed a taxing trudge of a few
kilometres through the ground moraine formed of ragged and jumbled heaps of
rocks and boulders. This was the section demanding extra caution and care because
even a momentary lapse of concentration could result in a twisted ankle,
damaged knee, or a broken nose. Reaching the snout of the glacier finally was a
big relief, especially to the knees, which take the brunt of the stress in such
a terrain. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">The trail, formed mainly of gravel,
gradually led to the Shyok river, fed by the snowmelt from the glacier we had
just crossed. The walk thereafter was an easy ramble, mainly through grassy
meadows and rocks bright with orange lichen. And, of course, everywhere we
looked we saw tiny flowers in a profusion of colours.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">The campsite, on a flat sandy area with a
brook flowing close by, was a welcome sight. It had been a long day. We had
started at 6.30 am and the first of us reached the North BC Lasermo La at 3.30
pm. We had covered nearly 16 kms, climbed up to a height of 17,890 ft, gaining
nearly 1,600 ft in altitude, and then descended 1,800 ft to the camp at 16,100
ft. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><u><span lang="EN-GB"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">3<sup>rd</sup> – 4<sup>th</sup> September, 2023</span></b><o:p></o:p></span></u></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">The walk from the North BC Lasermo La to Hundar
Doksa, though very long, is largely through gorgeous countryside, barring a
short stretch in the middle. About
halfway through the trek, the trail was obliterated by a cluttered accretion of
blocks of rocks and boulders. However, the debris-covered ice surface was thick
enough to enable secure footholds, as we weaved our way through this broken
terrain. The cause of this disruption
was evidently a massive landslide, caused by heavier than normal rains, that had
simply flattened the hillside! <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjStJk9qkhouDGLnVIzghOW3NBIV37Fx26wmIkmb23AojAuRK_tAMo37sCDSuuE3RG58RYdgJcxPq1Ufs_0xBpj2vItk6QNLE-pZ9Vt-vyXiUMaLTHHjKiw8FVws7_1UWYCoOmYMwpOdsaG81hyphenhyphenQdLPx8p6gbV-uHmev-8Q6Vxyv8L54WD_mAlACbquWiTO/s1326/PLH%2019.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1326" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjStJk9qkhouDGLnVIzghOW3NBIV37Fx26wmIkmb23AojAuRK_tAMo37sCDSuuE3RG58RYdgJcxPq1Ufs_0xBpj2vItk6QNLE-pZ9Vt-vyXiUMaLTHHjKiw8FVws7_1UWYCoOmYMwpOdsaG81hyphenhyphenQdLPx8p6gbV-uHmev-8Q6Vxyv8L54WD_mAlACbquWiTO/w640-h426/PLH%2019.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 Sept 2023: Throughout the route to Hunder Doksa, water bodies shining diamond-bright were a welcome sight to behold. </td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">This arduous walk lasted for about an hour
before we were once again walking along the scenic riverbank. so delightful and
striking that it energises you, immediately lifts your mood and before you know
it, you are smiling broadly. The track,
on the right bank of the river, meandered through lush green meadows, sodden
with moisture. The water was crystal clear and sparkled whenever it caught the
sun’s rays. Wherever the valley widened
out were limpid pools of transparent-as-glass water reflecting the brown slopes
of the scarps, blue sky, and woolly clouds. The valley was flanked by rocky
slopes soaring up majestically heavenwards, silhouetting the sky with
forbidding shapes resembling fortresses and citadels. Ahead, down the valley, the horizon was
broken by high, snow-covered mountains. Every once in a while, a marmot would scurry
towards its hole, disturbed from its reverie by us. An almost otherworldly
feeling grips me when I am on such wilderness treks – a singular reason for my
addiction to trails in remote areas. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBg3WJ9lR6fspFmlq2xG7W99anitNlrp8bhWvPPxvk52sGJpFNRtkb0-AeAnuHLFbcCF3CPhAS6NZM4eAgOL0KrR1bm6MJbWwijzNtd1TSgs31oVIsnM1cDsChjY-tcupIkPhxO2c0Y-H567aQHCkDIkWW4a3jhJe1cNAJRtTviCdoiS5VzFEbNcjCDa8v/s1325/PLH%2022.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="884" data-original-width="1325" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBg3WJ9lR6fspFmlq2xG7W99anitNlrp8bhWvPPxvk52sGJpFNRtkb0-AeAnuHLFbcCF3CPhAS6NZM4eAgOL0KrR1bm6MJbWwijzNtd1TSgs31oVIsnM1cDsChjY-tcupIkPhxO2c0Y-H567aQHCkDIkWW4a3jhJe1cNAJRtTviCdoiS5VzFEbNcjCDa8v/w640-h426/PLH%2022.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 Sept 2023: After crossing the glacier and as we walked along the river bank towards Hunder Doksa, brightly coloured flowers of various shades became a regular feature</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p class="MsoNormal">The final leg of our walk to the Hundar
Doksa camp included a hairy scramble down a sun-baked slope seemingly
comprising only crisp gravel and loose stones. This was one of the side
adventures, a sudden decision leading to a departure from the script, that our
head guide Tenzing is famous for!</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">It was a long day: we had set off at 8.30
am and arrived at 3.30 pm after covering nearly 21 kms, involving a descent of
3,000 ft, to 13,150 ft. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp2Rw1DzxYt8AYn6Ez8J9j3KrBXZNIZKLvlRg6aafy5R0RE7tMdfbrccu6TeyDetu9h7LIZ1UmS7iWO99wHzt-yqKvynajf1m2GoPOXQzkBtdUSJlflY-o2I3t86_zdw9hhFaBEhmPT14VtUlM17ihGUecd6McwMyW-NyItE2dponqEEQLnqQnUWAdWYLQ/s1470/PLH%2024.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="875" data-original-width="1470" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp2Rw1DzxYt8AYn6Ez8J9j3KrBXZNIZKLvlRg6aafy5R0RE7tMdfbrccu6TeyDetu9h7LIZ1UmS7iWO99wHzt-yqKvynajf1m2GoPOXQzkBtdUSJlflY-o2I3t86_zdw9hhFaBEhmPT14VtUlM17ihGUecd6McwMyW-NyItE2dponqEEQLnqQnUWAdWYLQ/w640-h380/PLH%2024.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 Sept 2023: Hunder Doksa village across the Hunder river where we camped -- the first habitation after five days of being in the wilderness. Barley almost ready for harvest</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p class="MsoNormal">After a well-earned sleep, we woke up to
another bright, sunny morning on the penultimate day of our trek. We walked
along a dusty but motorable road until we reached Wachen village and our
awaiting vehicles.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So ended another memorable trek for most of
us, thanks to the meticulous arrangements by South Col Expeditions. We were
well looked after by our caring, patient and yes, witty guides – Stanzin, Glory
and Kunsal – and Lhakpa </span>, the cook from Nepal, who turned out
flavoursome meal after meal under the most adverse of circumstances. But to really enjoy and soak in the stunning sites,
one must be lucky with the weather and hope that the trail is not teeming with
trekkers. We were blessed on both counts
– bright sunny days and not a single group, apart from ours, throughout the
trek!</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">All photographs copyright Ashesh Ambasta - for more photographs of the trek please do visit</span></b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; margin: 0px;"><u></u> <u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; margin: 0px;"><a data-saferedirecturl="https://www.google.com/url?q=https://photos.app.goo.gl/nrskLXjJZ9gJN9wN7&source=gmail&ust=1701492638403000&usg=AOvVaw3dOhE5WoIuU9ZY0XANZ4es" href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/nrskLXjJZ9gJN9wN7" style="color: #1155cc;" target="_blank">https://photos.app.goo.gl/<wbr></wbr>nrskLXjJZ9gJN9wN7</a><u></u><u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small; margin: 0px;"><u></u></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;"> </span></b></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com3Ladakh34.2268475 77.56194195.9166136638211526 42.405691899999994 62.537081336178844 112.7181919tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-35030141157397702862023-10-06T15:05:00.000+05:302023-10-06T15:05:16.082+05:30The Best Himalayan Blogs from Feedspot<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNlrpbMhyphenhyphenjJO0bttTEgIJiIz2qplTVBISYsKCJQgv0bEPp8x0Ys34u6xpmRRUGZiAVr3qUAN-iQmuL10wPTOdpvUYd0uYG4CbCm-Lx7g3zPj87IQUNpiwTkzmzgY-OeqpRmA28VhPDPKmnoUr6sPidOO4bERZZ6IPxbypH6DAw30F9QbTC_Yraparg_bS/s1284/BEST%20HIMALAYAN%20BLOGS.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="822" data-original-width="1284" height="410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXNlrpbMhyphenhyphenjJO0bttTEgIJiIz2qplTVBISYsKCJQgv0bEPp8x0Ys34u6xpmRRUGZiAVr3qUAN-iQmuL10wPTOdpvUYd0uYG4CbCm-Lx7g3zPj87IQUNpiwTkzmzgY-OeqpRmA28VhPDPKmnoUr6sPidOO4bERZZ6IPxbypH6DAw30F9QbTC_Yraparg_bS/w640-h410/BEST%20HIMALAYAN%20BLOGS.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /> <p></p><p>Feedspot recently published a list of the best Himalayan blogs and the link is available at</p><p><a href="https://blog.feedspot.com/himalayan_blogs/?feedid=5614136">https://blog.feedspot.com/himalayan_blogs/?feedid=5614136</a></p><p>The list covers 35 blogs and websites from the thousands of blogs on the web ... many of them also run tours and treks in the Himalaya.</p><p>This blog <a href="http://www.sujoyrdas.blogspot.com">www.sujoyrdas.blogspot.com</a> is no 24 on the list. </p><p>For more information on my treks and photo workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com.">www.southcol.com.</a></p><p>For photographs on the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a></p><p>Best wishes to all for the upcoming festive season and enjoy the holidays!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASR-kgUWiXv2ebhnMniPpmpGwHPChwR0jY8jXjdTPAbCBCU_BWhaJxt7ruCfW6jOHXqsO4n540EDNa4jCQDLqOreyjpW2xoKDc9ZS_bhPyhtof4tscU3kJEdOfNaT7YwPyPZG1IXFShFX71wazyV54iJX4mIOC615Z16Yy1mq8rkkVn42avnZfeq0B-bg/s2048/kala%20pattar%20nov%2023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiASR-kgUWiXv2ebhnMniPpmpGwHPChwR0jY8jXjdTPAbCBCU_BWhaJxt7ruCfW6jOHXqsO4n540EDNa4jCQDLqOreyjpW2xoKDc9ZS_bhPyhtof4tscU3kJEdOfNaT7YwPyPZG1IXFShFX71wazyV54iJX4mIOC615Z16Yy1mq8rkkVn42avnZfeq0B-bg/w640-h480/kala%20pattar%20nov%2023.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-83798892962359836002023-07-02T09:00:00.004+05:302023-07-04T13:33:04.591+05:30Mulde View Point, Dobato and Poon Hill Route and Timings March 2023<p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDsv8plTh0z6nNh9rIp541KTEUlh82TCOlZ1C-ClQyH-LvJDFyImZ_R681E9jpznqASoPJanHcUMw18xvpqGw6RURvR4KSHPQOViGKRzvPEEg7kBa4Cre2CfRS6hUdbXwpdY_CeW9N-GrEAZV3lCcyrBkJI6139nqnYoyUg6ZZnW9hwtRO0m6n0rUxg/s2016/FullSizeRender.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1160" data-original-width="2016" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDDsv8plTh0z6nNh9rIp541KTEUlh82TCOlZ1C-ClQyH-LvJDFyImZ_R681E9jpznqASoPJanHcUMw18xvpqGw6RURvR4KSHPQOViGKRzvPEEg7kBa4Cre2CfRS6hUdbXwpdY_CeW9N-GrEAZV3lCcyrBkJI6139nqnYoyUg6ZZnW9hwtRO0m6n0rUxg/w640-h368/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b style="color: #0b5394; font-size: large; text-align: left;">Mulde View Point and Poon Hill Trek Route and Timings</b></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">With a view to extend the Poon Hill trek by a few days we decided to go a recce of a new route to Dobato and Muldai View Point – the Muldai route can be extended to Khopra Ridge as well.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>February 28th 2023 - Flight Kathmandu to Pokhara drive to Ghandrung </b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">Our Buddha Air flight to Pokhara was at 7.55 am but when we reached the airport we were told that there are not enough passengers for two flights so they sent us on the earlier flight at 7 30 pm. The flight was uneventful with views of Langtang, Ganesh Himal and then Himalchuli and the Manaslu group. Finally just before Pokhara the Annapurnas and Macchapuchare came into view through the early morning fog. We landed at the new Pokhara airport which is big and very swanky with all the modern amenities and facilities. Our jeep ride to Kimche below Ghandrung took around 1 hr 45 min and we then started the walk to Ghandrung. Kimche is around 1700 metres and in an hour we reached Ghandrung which is 1980 metres. I was quite shocked to see the rapid urbanization of this beautiful village. Gone are the slate roofed houses and lodges - ugly new brick and concrete constructions are mushrooming all over the village some three storeys high- there is construction materials piled up everywhere destroying the old charm and beauty of this once upon a time Himalayan village. We walked up past our earlier lodges Milan and Gurung Cottage both which seemed to be quite congested and surrounded by new buildings in a state of semi construction and decided to stay at the Ghandrung Eco Lodge which thankfully had a better view and an open aspect - tomorrow we walk to Tadapani.</p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Pokhara to Kimche by jeep 1 hour 45 min to 2 hours; Kimche to Ghandrung trek 1 hour ; Ghandrung 2032m 28 22 34N 83 48 26 E</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Ncell and NTC both working at Ghandrung 4G reception; Dal Bhat Rs 500 Black Tea Rs 80</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGvMpaLQ4pP1iAvmGPz8EmwD3M51FJqXwOTLBvLpgJh7Y7hb2Ae97tST1NTj-3F4TaYW3HIt47ok2ZaG9ChhXlzi63NI9TC_VvpDXyESNyc8yj9mnDxE-qEZ8660EKvFEVqnOQmDTKqdpmehr5Gzk4Av2wrPDEJqYwV2_bylK4b8a7CrsIbieC1GIWg/s1500/_DSC9192-002.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1001" data-original-width="1500" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtGvMpaLQ4pP1iAvmGPz8EmwD3M51FJqXwOTLBvLpgJh7Y7hb2Ae97tST1NTj-3F4TaYW3HIt47ok2ZaG9ChhXlzi63NI9TC_VvpDXyESNyc8yj9mnDxE-qEZ8660EKvFEVqnOQmDTKqdpmehr5Gzk4Av2wrPDEJqYwV2_bylK4b8a7CrsIbieC1GIWg/w640-h428/_DSC9192-002.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>March 1 2023 Ghandrung to Tadapani 2690m </b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">It was a reasonably clear morning and we saw the mountains from our lodge. I walked down to old Ghandrung village before breakfast to get a photo of the older houses fast vanishing with the mountains. We left around 9-10 am after breakfast. The trail climbed up gradually and in about 35-40 min reached the famous Lonely Planet Lodge which has now added several new rooms. The location is excellent with the mountain views. The trail then started climbing gradually through the forest - in some sections there were some steep climbs - in about an hour it reaches a small bridge across the river and from here on stone steps it climbs very steeply for about 30-40 minutes to reach the lodges of Baisikharka around 2500 metres. This is a welcome tea break and you can catch your breath for a bit before starting out for Tadapani. The trail initially climbs steeply out of Baiskharka again on stone steps in the forest. In about half an hour the steep climbing is done and you reach a resting place in a meadow. From here the gradient eases and it is a fairy level walk with a few ups and downs - the last five minutes it climbs again and enters Tadapani with around 5-6 lodges. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Ghandrung to Lonely Planet Lodge 35 to 40 min; Lonely Planet Lodge to Baisikharka 1 hr 30 to 40 min; Baisikharka to Tadapani 1 hour. Tadapani 2690m 28 23 49 N 83 45 55E</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">NTC working at Tadapani but not data - most lodges here have wifi </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black Tea Rs 80</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-D__bvh-WICmnzln3tETezvFr9wqDTQUMHMwCGW9zPntRLuAC-Oouv234Nr41JTCvr65VE6L2CxrePdzC3H_yiTUzC_buGpyvuPjhZL8u93sIqvgVUuHcjfgLGLgfM2Isw9nyb1WKFQ7qYMhcDTbE3Lth_it8MuZ20n4RsjrfcfEu4mguoPPcueJSpg/s2016/IMG_4832.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="2016" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-D__bvh-WICmnzln3tETezvFr9wqDTQUMHMwCGW9zPntRLuAC-Oouv234Nr41JTCvr65VE6L2CxrePdzC3H_yiTUzC_buGpyvuPjhZL8u93sIqvgVUuHcjfgLGLgfM2Isw9nyb1WKFQ7qYMhcDTbE3Lth_it8MuZ20n4RsjrfcfEu4mguoPPcueJSpg/w640-h480/IMG_4832.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><b style="color: #0b5394;"><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><b style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></b></p>March 2 2023 Tadapani to Dobato 3317m</b><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">It rained quite heavily last afternoon - Nepal has been receiving some rain last few days after more than four months. There was also a heavy hailstorm in the evening and the weather finally cleared up at night when the moon came up. The morning was crystal clear and we left for Dobato after breakfast at 7.55 am. The trail was through the forest and we found the first rhododendrons had started to bloom. The trail climbed initially and then descended before climbing again in about an hour to reach a ridge at around 2800 metres - the trail is well marked with blue and white markers - there is a stone Chautara which serves as a resting place. Take the right trail from here with the blue markers and in about another 20 minutes reach another larger stone Chautara with a sign Tadapani 8 and a small meadow with views of Annapurna South, Huinchuli and Machapuchare. From here there is a steep climb to the first lodge called Heaven View Top Lodge at Meshar Danda about 2950 metres and two hours from Tadapani. The lodge was closed and after a brief water stop we carried on. The trail did an initial steep climb before levelling out and a final last climb brought us to the Hillside lodge at Isharu in about 40 minutes at an altitude of around 3100 metres. We stopped for a tea break here and then carried on climbing steeply again in 15 minutes to the upper Isharu Green Hill lodge. Passing this lodge the trail started climbing again and in about 30 minutes reached a small shed with a place to worship called Kirumsi Baraha. From here we started walking through snow which was due to the heavy downpour yesterday - in the shadow areas most of the snow had frozen over and parts were quite slippery. We plodded on through the snow following the blue and white markers climbing all the way through the forest. As we came closer to Dobato the weather started packing up and clouds rushed up the valley - soon it was back to white out conditions. Finally, in about 1 hr 30 min from Isharu we came to the lodges of Dobato and stopped at Mt Lucky. Within half an hour it started to rain and hail again. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Tadapani to Meshar Danda 2970m 2 hrs; Meshar Danda to Hillside Lodge Isharu 40 min; Isharu to Dobato 1 hr 30 - 1 hr 45 min.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Isharu 3100 metres 28 24 52 N 83 44 50E Dobato 3448m 28 25 24 N 83 44 14E</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Very weak NTC reception at Dobato - the lodge had wifi which was not working - however at the Mulde View Point 45 min up there was NTC 4G reception </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black Tea Rs 80</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0042Jw42_PngOfngM7dUnm_xLJaoDmdAxZKrOnFRJ5cyj3e4cyCHC9PcNqIPhQLoGfkIYjfWIJFOyRXFoIUfxu2HV5oqH_B_MBiGfkKh3I6pxw2OmcVjibvrK2amPYh_fPzB-uzfkTeLQSiwKbaPkwMKSXMXa3uGEQZuN6r4v4PA-C-sgdQyZKOoWNw/s1500/_DSC4464-001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1002" data-original-width="1500" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0042Jw42_PngOfngM7dUnm_xLJaoDmdAxZKrOnFRJ5cyj3e4cyCHC9PcNqIPhQLoGfkIYjfWIJFOyRXFoIUfxu2HV5oqH_B_MBiGfkKh3I6pxw2OmcVjibvrK2amPYh_fPzB-uzfkTeLQSiwKbaPkwMKSXMXa3uGEQZuN6r4v4PA-C-sgdQyZKOoWNw/w640-h428/_DSC4464-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>March 3 2023 Dobato to Mulde View Point to Ghorepani 2850m</b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">The morning was clear and cold and we started out at 7-10 am after breakfast for Muldai View Point - the trail was steep and snow covered and we had to use micro spikes to prevent us from slipping. We reached Muldai in about 50 minutes and were greeted with a splendid view from the Dhaulagiri group right down to the Annapurnas and Machhapuchare. After shooting both photos and videos we left Muldai at around 8 50 am. The trail meandered around the hillside with views on both sides and in about an hour reached a small Chautara next to it was a sign pointing to Deorali on one side and Dobato on the other. The trail then started plunging down very steeply to the forest - due to the snow for the last two days the shady parts of the forest were full of snow and some parts were becoming icy. We continued to descend slowly using our micro spikes and sticks and in about one hour we came to the bottom - from here the trail followed a series of ascents and descents but the snow had ended and the walking was easier. Finally around 11 45 am we reached the lodges of Deorali where we stopped for lunch. We left Deorali at around 12 55 pm - the trail climbed initially for about 20 min and react a small pass on the ridge with prayer flags - from here there were a series of gentle ups and downs on the ridge - on a clear day there is are awesome mountain views from this ridge route but today it was covered in cloud. In about 50 minutes we reached a tea shop on the ridge with a Chautara and prayer flags. From here the trail drops in a series of steps for about 20 minutes until it reaches another Chautara - from here the sharp right trail goes to upper Ghorepani while the trail going straight goes to lower Ghorepani - finally around 3 pm we reached the lodges of Ghorepani after a long day. As the clouds had settled in we were denied a sunset view of the mountains. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Dobato to Mulde View Point 3627m 45 min to 1 hour; Mulde View Point to Deorali 3150m 3 hours ; Deorali to Ghorepani 2850m 2 hours </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Deorali 3150m 28 23 49N 83 43 44N Ghorepani 2850m 28 24 10 N 83 41 57E</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">There was full NTC 4G reception at Ghorepani </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Dal Bhat Rs 700 Black Tea Rs 80</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRoxBVCmfae_zOP_gnP7SZm2g1ScFlP9JZVC7-yF2FflCiRMcP03PK_UfovoEeqiz501_4uNETLKUXflp_n7bbHs_VBjYmXg0Sx-_SKIYujCCxFqqoodmx-37w9B98DyQSlL2V1H9KgXQeTiu6lTM1SPfoWOoECK6gt70rFekBYCCAf8os2jZgoKUDHA/s1844/IMG_4828.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1231" data-original-width="1844" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRoxBVCmfae_zOP_gnP7SZm2g1ScFlP9JZVC7-yF2FflCiRMcP03PK_UfovoEeqiz501_4uNETLKUXflp_n7bbHs_VBjYmXg0Sx-_SKIYujCCxFqqoodmx-37w9B98DyQSlL2V1H9KgXQeTiu6lTM1SPfoWOoECK6gt70rFekBYCCAf8os2jZgoKUDHA/w640-h428/IMG_4828.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>March 4th 2023 Ghorepani to Banthanti 1900m and jeep to Pokhara </b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">We left at 5 40 am in the morning for Poon Hill. The weather was foggy and misty - as we climbed up Annapurna South and Huinchuli came up through the clouds - we reached the top around 6 30 am - the sun was yet to come up - The huge mass of Dhaulagiri appeared through the clouds just the peak getting the golden Ray's of the sun. However the view was hazy not the usual crystal clear morning we had experienced in Muldai. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">We left Ghorepani after breakfast around 9 15 am and continued down on a broad path with the odd rhododendron tree in bloom to Nagthanti in about 1.5 hours - we took a short break and then continued through the forest mainly losing altitude to the upper lodges of Banthanti - as we exited the forest we came upon a broad road for jeeps - this is the road down to Nayapul and then Pokhara - on the other side the road is being extended to Ghorepani which it may well reach in a couple of years putting an end to this trekking route as well. From Banthanti as the road was there we took a jeep to Pokhara and reached in 2.5 hours. However from Banthanti to Hillay the trekking trail and the infamous Ulleri steps are still undisturbed and are being used by a lot of Trekkers. After Hillay to Birethanti unfortunately you have to walk on the road. </p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #0b5394;">Ghorepani to Nagthanti 1 hour 30 min; Nagthanti to upper Banthanti 1 hr 15 min; Banthanti to Hillay by jeep 45 min; Hillay to Pokhara 1 hour 45 min. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-i--fBcfUmUs_5aBoSZUqerW2o8dZqDYwmZ-fzliEgWMI_ZOdv6GbJdixV1zCrvVXrrJOvNwHpnrPwqzi-XowL0_tMFhwMmOxAp7AxGn_6Sw6_bN15EgWDJ02mcArRED5s9QJDMPIhAZTE7vwUqXEhjDD0ekT-CF6jC9Xl5M88zmTDmKyDR-V8eIAQ/s1500/_DSC9268-001.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1500" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL-i--fBcfUmUs_5aBoSZUqerW2o8dZqDYwmZ-fzliEgWMI_ZOdv6GbJdixV1zCrvVXrrJOvNwHpnrPwqzi-XowL0_tMFhwMmOxAp7AxGn_6Sw6_bN15EgWDJ02mcArRED5s9QJDMPIhAZTE7vwUqXEhjDD0ekT-CF6jC9Xl5M88zmTDmKyDR-V8eIAQ/w640-h426/_DSC9268-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">For more information on treks in the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;">For more photographs and essays on the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 0in;"><br /></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com2Poon Hill, Histan Mandali 33200, Nepal28.4001966 83.6892986000000150.089962763821155534 48.533048600000015 56.710430436178846 118.84554860000001tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-83995503144858208862023-06-17T12:35:00.025+05:302023-06-17T12:35:00.135+05:30Kashmir Tarsar Marsar Trek - Route and Timings August 2022<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBDF9IH_QhCFaicO7SqgYFc7TAXTIc7hey1X1yt2SktyB2YJi7KX5tCrkU_iuswDTu84YWimU77FDEnihY8WRV7DaLR7jDgKfXnZFWXrseOJ8X1ivGsIXnEXmU6xtJSlYRzcBTJBFq5HCDTrwmafmevUUAOK3lg4qwM1Dm26l-Qe2NwyVBdzcVB_9uw/s1250/_DSC1530.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1250" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCBDF9IH_QhCFaicO7SqgYFc7TAXTIc7hey1X1yt2SktyB2YJi7KX5tCrkU_iuswDTu84YWimU77FDEnihY8WRV7DaLR7jDgKfXnZFWXrseOJ8X1ivGsIXnEXmU6xtJSlYRzcBTJBFq5HCDTrwmafmevUUAOK3lg4qwM1Dm26l-Qe2NwyVBdzcVB_9uw/w640-h428/_DSC1530.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="color: #222222;">Kashmir Tarsar Marsar Trek August 16 to 20th 2022</span></p><p><span style="color: #222222;">A detailed day wise route desctiption and timings of the popular Tarsar Marsar trek by South Col Expeditions in August 2022 - due to bad weather and lack of days we could not cross over the Sonomas pass to Sumbal but returned to Lidderwat/Aru the same way.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><b style="color: #3d85c6;">August 16th 2022 Pahalgam to Aru to Lidderwat </b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">We drove from Pahalgam to Aru 2440 metres in about
30 minutes and started out from Aru around 8 am. It had rained for 14 hours nonstop
the previous day but the weather had cleared up and the sun was out with blue
skies. The first part of the trail from Aru to the Agricultural station was
extremely muddy and slippery thanks to all the pony traffic as well as the
incessant rains. This portion of the trail took us around one hour which should
have normally taken 30 minutes. We reached the first meadow around 9 am and
after a short break plunged into the forest - this part was also quite muddy
and it was heavy going - finally after around 2 hours from Aru we emerged into
the meadows for a brief while and the trail had dried out somewhat due to the
morning sun. The river Lidder thundered through the gorge below while thick
pine forests surrounded the adjacent hills. We met few tourists and some locals
making their way down from Lidderwat to Pahalgam and some shepherds as well.
Finally around 11.30 am at around 2670 metres we reached a small tea shop -
further up on the ridge was another tea shop serving tea and Maggi noodles. The
distance was around 7 km from Aru. After
a quick break we carried on the trails through the meadows soon descended to
the Lidder river. This idyllic section
of the walk followed the Lidder river and was incredibly beautiful with the
river flowing adjacent to the trail. We soon came to another tea shop - the
third one on the trail from here the path climbed up to another small meadow
before again plunging down a steep path to the river. You finally cross a
bridge across the Lidder and climb up to the meadows of Lidderwat. As we reached Lidderwat and stopped for lunch
the rain came down once again and carried on till around 5 pm in the evening
after which the weather did clear up and we saw some blue skies in the clouds -
hope for tomorrow. </span><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;">
Aru to first meadow 1 hr - should be 30 minutes in dry weather; First meadow to
first tea shop 2 hrs to 2 hrs 15 min; First tea shop to second tea shop 30 min;
Second tea shop to third tea shop 45 min Third tea shop to Lidderwat 45 min to
1 hr <br />
Aru to Lidderwat 4.5 to 5 hours depending on trail conditions - 10.7 km 18695
steps<br />
Aru 2430 m 34 5 31 N 75 15 57E Lidderwat 2775m 34 9 35 N 75 14 31 E <br /></span>
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-8CEg8iUFCNRzqYIH8FtUlPeDhSkj6IUKKv26N2gIxbaOb9LB43BUpOpuELoA8U4YMlyNHGAUKPkvvM9h1k29B9xqd6Ni4s8sffq2V6oRmtahYtheJ0Frmf4bj5D9ord_hDQSYkG3Y00glEGxj1RF5kRe-DTU3pofhAf4RX7igDFx495WHjMJCj5xw/s1250/IMG_3608.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="938" data-original-width="1250" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ-8CEg8iUFCNRzqYIH8FtUlPeDhSkj6IUKKv26N2gIxbaOb9LB43BUpOpuELoA8U4YMlyNHGAUKPkvvM9h1k29B9xqd6Ni4s8sffq2V6oRmtahYtheJ0Frmf4bj5D9ord_hDQSYkG3Y00glEGxj1RF5kRe-DTU3pofhAf4RX7igDFx495WHjMJCj5xw/w640-h480/IMG_3608.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>August 17th Lidderwat to Homwas to Shekwas </b></span><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">As we had to complete the complete the trek to
Sumbal across the Sonomas pass in five days we decided to make a early start in
the hope of getting to the Tarsar camp site by evening. However, it started
raining again at around 1 am in the morning and the rain persisted until around
7.30 am. This dashed our hopes for an early start and also the possibility of
reaching Tarsar the same evening seemed remote. After breakfast we managed to
get away around 8.25 am. The trail starts from the meadows and climbs up
steeply to the first ridge in about 30 minutes. From here the trail continues
to climb though not so steeply until in about 45 minutes it crosses the 3000m
mark. The trail then continues to ascend gradually crossing some small streams
on the way with the river not very far away from the trail. In about two hours
from Lidderwat the trail descends to a bridge across the Lidder at 3120 metres.
From here it climbs again through some rocky sections until it reaches a tea
shop at Homwas 3188m. From Homwas the route crosses a broad meadow and then
hugs the river along a boulder strewn track made all the more difficult by the
pelting rain. From here the trail again crosses a number of small streams
across the meadow before coming into a clearing which is the camp site of
Shekwas 3335m.</span><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;">
Lidderwat to Homwas 2 hr 30 min; Homwas to Shekwas 1 hr 30 min. <br />
Homwas 3188m 34 10 4N 75 12 16E Shekwas 3335m 34 9 37N 75 11 14E<br />
Lidderwat to Shekwas 6 km.</span><br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>August 18 Shekwas to Marsar </b></span><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">It rained the whole night and the weather looked
like clearing in the early morning. Patches of blue sky appeared and then the
sun reluctantly appeared through the clouds. We decided to leave around 8 10 am
and the trail initially left the campsite and climbed upwards and in around
20-25 minutes reached a shepherds hut which was locked. The trail continued to
climb gently through boulder sections until it crossed the river again over
boulders and reached the bottom of a hill - the altitude was 3515 metres and
one hour from Shekwas. In around 20 minutes the meadows on top were crested at
an altitude of 3600 metres - the trail was then through the meadows climbing
steadily until it reached a small pass at around 3725 metres. The trail further
climbed from here to the Tarsar campsite in about 20 min 3780m</span><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;">
Shekwas to river crossing 1 hr River crossing to Tarsar 1 hr 30 min to 1 hr 45
min<br />
River Crossing 3515m 34 9 0 N 75 10 40E Tarsar 3780m 34 8 45N 75 9 26E<br />
Shekwas to Marsar 5.8 km<br /></span>
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUT8A9pvASx5Ode6CZnOWKN8awyOyeFuNK-zUh22SKyladSdi6REz38BrVYhOXFny82L3-fFBmgzyPUmQ2cUjPj5mptnSgB2TdilAvPukP6WpFe3tVb3BUSRrBQ_iJ8Xzhr3r32b3n9cnZt7yh120lfT5zbfk50fQ1Hd6n_zMvma0Z8SfV28tba-PnXQ/s1250/_DSC1482.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="835" data-original-width="1250" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUT8A9pvASx5Ode6CZnOWKN8awyOyeFuNK-zUh22SKyladSdi6REz38BrVYhOXFny82L3-fFBmgzyPUmQ2cUjPj5mptnSgB2TdilAvPukP6WpFe3tVb3BUSRrBQ_iJ8Xzhr3r32b3n9cnZt7yh120lfT5zbfk50fQ1Hd6n_zMvma0Z8SfV28tba-PnXQ/w640-h428/_DSC1482.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>Side Trip to Marsar Top </b></span><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">Due to the inclement weather since the start of the
trek at Aru we lost one day and were not able to do the crossing across to
Sunderser then to the Sonomas pass and finally out at Sumbal. So as a
consolation prize we decided to climb upto to the ridge across the Tarsar lake which
is also known as Marsar top from where both Tarsar and Marsar lakes are
visible. After a half hour break at Tarsar we started for Marsar top. The trail
initially skirted the lake and then immediately entered into a boulder section
- it continued to climb steadily sometimes through grassy sections and
sometimes through boulders for about one hour until it reached the bottom of a
steep zig zag section at around 3850 metres - from here the trail climbed
steeply for about 45 minutes until we got to Marsar top at 3985 metres- it was a
spectacular view point with the Marsar lake visible on one side and the Tarsar
on the other side below the viewpoint. </span><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;">
Tarsar camp site to Marsar viewpoint 1 hr 45 min to 2 hours Marsar viewpoint to
Tarsar camp site 1 hr 15 min to 1 hr 30 min <br />
Marsar viewpoint or Marsar top 3985 metres 34 7 56 N 75 8 22 E</span><br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU9CAMqZPWpruJ1m7nO9OnXkZHSpP9OhRPgUugLWzZs7o7BCHEqTzbwczLzHkNNDFCKMDIiMbvj5cmwApbvLgmBNn1NBxGxZmGLyNL1TFhZ3nUIFS_OKjyS-VGTfQ9nae7Z80WH6JX-jONqMUhEQa0O57gPyCBx7YTyQa6WBMm0knuP268tNFIBMX09g/s1250/_DSC1500.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="834" data-original-width="1250" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU9CAMqZPWpruJ1m7nO9OnXkZHSpP9OhRPgUugLWzZs7o7BCHEqTzbwczLzHkNNDFCKMDIiMbvj5cmwApbvLgmBNn1NBxGxZmGLyNL1TFhZ3nUIFS_OKjyS-VGTfQ9nae7Z80WH6JX-jONqMUhEQa0O57gPyCBx7YTyQa6WBMm0knuP268tNFIBMX09g/w640-h428/_DSC1500.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>August 19 Tarsar down to Lidderwat</b></span><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">As we had to be back in Srinagar on 20th August due
to connecting flights on the 21st we decided to make a push for it and head all
the way down to Lidderwat. After a spectacular day at Tarsar it started raining
in the earring evening around 5 pm and continued relentlessly until around 7
pm. The next morning was very misty with low lying fog over the lake but it
cleared once the sun came up. We left after a late breakfast and reached
Shekwas in about an hour and 45 minutes. After a brief rest in the Shekwas
meadow we started down for Homwas only to find a pony lying dead on the road -
he had very tragically fallen with his heavy load from the trail overhead - it
was a terrible sight. We reached Homwas in about an hour and stopped for lunch
on a meadow with the fast flowing river below. We then crossed the Homwas
bridge and headed down to Lidderwat which took around 2 hours. Luckily for us
the weather held up and it did not rain the whole day. </span><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;">
Tarsar to Shekwas 1 hr 45 min; Shekwas to Homwas 1 hour; Homwas to Lidderwat 2
hours.<br /></span>
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLf-qhjcqklVrwOR6AkO9FpRs-s5pxhG5XCXriJ8aYTHnsKF3yvtlxmtREr7gjN2tMJYX3Yz67gxFDciPCbI8ttZe6jB2bxnydm9SMCrN8z_fBI49tsKCdoC1IrNg9EAUJ1sHkpz7kHCocq-xQl4PBbsyI7yQpJUSlhQdrBL05Orfn_yGSnjN1wvw4iw/s1500/tarsar%20trek.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLf-qhjcqklVrwOR6AkO9FpRs-s5pxhG5XCXriJ8aYTHnsKF3yvtlxmtREr7gjN2tMJYX3Yz67gxFDciPCbI8ttZe6jB2bxnydm9SMCrN8z_fBI49tsKCdoC1IrNg9EAUJ1sHkpz7kHCocq-xQl4PBbsyI7yQpJUSlhQdrBL05Orfn_yGSnjN1wvw4iw/w640-h480/tarsar%20trek.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><b style="color: #3d85c6;">August 20 Lidderwat to Aru</b></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">
Today was the last day of our trek and we had to drive on to Srinagar. We left
after breakfast at around 7.45 am and we were in Aru by about 11.30 am and in Sringar by late afternoon.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">For more details on our treks and photo workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #222222;">For more photographs of the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><br /></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Jammu and Kashmir33.277839 75.341217899999994.9676051638211547 40.18496789999999 61.588072836178846 110.49746789999999tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-55940022367906757822023-06-10T12:34:00.007+05:302023-06-10T12:35:13.436+05:30Gokyo Ama Dablam Base Camp Trek via Phortse October 2021 -Route and Timings<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4660nU9IAdzaRK0g78v1iu7FRV6bOk0MDIJ0sRaVOKILrQaSvEmYNQy-M-oVp0vXTYQ806zuZ9zlmaAyMpeO4lYv5fSGXbT7Q_ODk04_MoBiXC7SkMVFfrJnxJnlM1y1jJzpnHedruAsu0SrC3IlDF0jriKaP8wWHMwIxKblhFzomz6hUHD2QcuKwwg/s900/_DSC0162.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="900" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4660nU9IAdzaRK0g78v1iu7FRV6bOk0MDIJ0sRaVOKILrQaSvEmYNQy-M-oVp0vXTYQ806zuZ9zlmaAyMpeO4lYv5fSGXbT7Q_ODk04_MoBiXC7SkMVFfrJnxJnlM1y1jJzpnHedruAsu0SrC3IlDF0jriKaP8wWHMwIxKblhFzomz6hUHD2QcuKwwg/w640-h426/_DSC0162.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 12pt;">Namche
to Gokyo to Phortse to Pangboche to Namche October 2021</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;">Route details and timings for this route is below<br />
<span style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">October 21 Namche to Dole </span></b></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We left Namche on a sunny clear morning after
the rain with all the peaks visible - the broad trail mostly level with a few
ups and downs was a lovely walk with all the peaks from Taboche to Thamserku
visible including Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We reached the beautiful Ama
Dablam Lodge at Kyanjuma in about less than two hours with many photography
stops on the way. After a tea break at the lodge we started out for Mong la.
Within five minutes there was a sign posted trail junction - the upper trail
went to Gokyo and the lower trail to Everest Base Camp. A new trail had been
constructed in the initial part of the climb with proper hand railings and
steps - this steep climb took about half an hour with mesmerizing mountain
views all around. On reaching the top there was a small resting spot from where
Mongla could be seen as well as the trail leading upwards. We followed the
trail climbing uphill contouring the hillside and had great mountain views all
the way. We stopped for lunch at the Hilltop lodge in Mongla. After lunch we
started out on the rapid descent to Phortse Tenga. The trail dropped fairly
sharply for the first 20 minutes before easing out into a gentler descent - in
about an hour from Mongla we came to the two lodges of Phortse Tenga and the
trail diversion which was marked - the upper trail led to Dole and the lower
trail led to Phortse. The Dole trail initially climbed very gently and in about
20 minutes reached the Dole National Park check post where the permits are
checked. Soon after the trail crosses a waterfall and then begins to climb
steeply fir about 30 minutes before the trail levels off and reaches a resting spot
with a stone bench which provides a welcome break. After this the climb
continues through the rhododendron forest. Across the valley the village of
Phortse is your constant companion in about an hour another waterfall is
reached and ahead you can see the trail contouring up the hillside. Finally the
trail skirts the hillside takes a turn and the lodges of Dole come suddenly
into view. </span><br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="background: white;">Namche 3450m to Kyanjuma 3615m 27 49 22N 86 43
52E 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs Kyanjuma to Mongla 3980m 27 50 22N 86 44 12E 2 hrs
Mongla to Phortse Tenga 1 hour to 1 hour 15 min Phortse Tenga 3650m to Dole
4110m 27 52 4N 86 43 50 E </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">2 hrs to 2 hrs 15 min</span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>October 22nd Dole to Macchermo </b></span></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We woke up to another clear morning - there was
frost outside so the temperature must have fallen below zero Celsius- the
Everest link wifi connection was not working and the Ncell connection without
data was working on top of the hill above Dole. We started out around 8 40 am
and immediately started climbing the hill above Dole. In around 20 minutes we
reached a small pass with prayer flags - the trail continues to climb up and
reaches another small pass ahead you can see the Mountain View Hill Top Lodge
Lhabharma which is reached in another 30 minutes - all around are dazzling
views of the mountains in a 360 degree circle. From the lodge pass another two
small houses and then after the bend see the long broad flattish trail for
about 30 minutes - turn the last bend and see below the grazing flats of Luza
with the blue roofs of the Kangtega View Lodge a good tea stop. From Luza cross
the grazing flats and climb up the hill - the trail again flattens out until
there is a final climb to a small pass and you can see the lodges of Macchermo
below. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">Dole to Lhabharma 4280m 27 52 30N 86 4330E 1 hr
to 1 hr 15 min Lhabarma to Luza 4320m 27 53 37N 86 43 6E 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min
Luza to Machermo 4450m 27 54 11N 86 42 55E 45 min to 1 hr</span></span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWJgvaDs8amoNDIWzL1q2ONJA0KnDWiHOV8hpaKGo17aI8VjAXWHfHamCANb2xWSv5bpaqLIpSPfV6MxhT1rWmR_VRr0OesARuKSxuOBOnHAbY-h7z_qISY9GHy7kyYEwAuKF5QLe_1Axy_a8kZjPBYsKlJfzGsKneB4E60tDR0Vz7hygG-JDgNKbmg/s2200/Cho%20Oyu%20and%20the%20third%20lake%20of%20Gokyo-001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2200" data-original-width="1466" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvWJgvaDs8amoNDIWzL1q2ONJA0KnDWiHOV8hpaKGo17aI8VjAXWHfHamCANb2xWSv5bpaqLIpSPfV6MxhT1rWmR_VRr0OesARuKSxuOBOnHAbY-h7z_qISY9GHy7kyYEwAuKF5QLe_1Axy_a8kZjPBYsKlJfzGsKneB4E60tDR0Vz7hygG-JDgNKbmg/w426-h640/Cho%20Oyu%20and%20the%20third%20lake%20of%20Gokyo-001.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br /><span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>October 23 Machhermo to Gokyo </b></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We left Machermo around 8 am on another very
clear morning - the path immediately climbed steeply to a small pass in around
20 minutes where there was another 360 degree view of the mountains - the path
went downhill for a while and the lodges of Pangka could be seen ahead. In
about 30 minutes we came to a small meadow - both the trails up and flat along
the valley lead to Pangka. We stopped at the newly built Cosy Inn which also
had rooms for a night stay and was unlikely to be very busy as Pangka is
usually a tea or lunch stop. 15 minutes after leaving Pangka there is a sign
post marking the trail on the other bank of the river to Phortse. The trail
then climbed gently in around 30-40 minutes to a resting spot marked as Nigere.
From here the real climbing started up a narrow staircase and a rocky chimney
for about 30 minutes until it reached a metal bridge across the foaming river.
There is a one bar Ncell signal right in the middle of the bridge which
disappeared as soon as we crossed the bridge. From here the trail leveled out
and within ten minutes reached the first lake of Gokyo which often has excellent
reflections of Cho Oyu in the still greenish waters. From the first lake the
path continued to wind up the valley and the second lake soon comes into view -
from here in another 45 minutes you reach the third lake and the lodges of
Gokyo with the stupendous views.</span><br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="background: white;">Machhermo to Pangka 4500m 27 55 30N 86 42 31E 45
min to 1 hr Pangka to Ngire 4510m 30 minutes Ngire to First Lake 4700m 27 55
53N 86 42 27E 45 min First Lake to Second Lake 4734m 27 57 02N 86 41 58E 30 min
Second Lake to Gokyo 4740m 45 min. </span><br /></span>
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>October 25th Gokyo to Phortse - long day</b></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We left Gokyo early by 7 15 am - it was another
clear and crisp day - the walk down to the second lake took a leisurely 30
minutes photographing along the way and then in another 20 minutes we reached
the first lake - from here to the small bridge in 15 min. Here we managed to
get a one bar Ncell signal just possible to make a few calls. The walk downhill
followed on the steep staircase which took around another 30 minutes to the
spot signposted as Ngire. We then reached the signposted marked Phortse with a
bridge across the Imja Khola below - cross the bridge and follow the trail to
the blue lodge of Na which is seen across the river in about 30 minutes from
Ngire. </span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We took a tea break at the Cho La view lodge at
Na (the sign has disappeared) and then started out for Thare. The trail
initially remained fairly level across a very pleasant across a scrub forest in
autumn colours of red, orange, yellow and streams flowing across - this part of
the walk took around 30 minutes after which the trail started climbing up to
the Nima Friendship Lodge at Thare which was closed in about 90 minutes from
Na. By now it was almost noon so we decided to have our packed lunch. We had
not met a single local or Trekker on this trail so far and we would not meet
until we reached the outskirts of Phortse. After lunch we started the steep
climb to Thore - it was mostly uphill and took around 45 minutes to get to the
Kangtega View Lodge which was open in Thore. We stopped here for a welcome
break and a cup of tea. The trail then started meandering around the hill side
- it was a long and tiring walk of around 90 minutes before we reached the big
stupa above Phortse. Towards the end the trail had also been dug up so walking
was difficult. From here the trail followed the downhill path all the way to
the village of Phortse.</span><br />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="background: white;">Gokyo to Na 2 hrs to 2 hrs 30 min Na to Thare 90
min Thare to Thore 45 min Thore to Big Stupa 90 min Big Stupa to Phortse 90 min
to 2 hrs. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Na 4370 m 27 55 0 N 86 42 59 E Thare 4300m 27 53
38N 86 43 38E Thore 4381m 27 53 11 N 86 43 58E Phortse 3825m 27 50 43N 86 44
56E</span></span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">October 26th Phortse to Pangboche by the high
route</span></b></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We left late around 10 30 am as it was a short
day and the clients were very tired after the earlier long walk to Phortse. The
trail climbed up to the top of the village and then turned right climbing
steadily to the top of a small pass from where Tengboche monastery and the
lodges of Devoche could be seen. It then descended for some time before making
a very steep ascent on a stone staircase which again reached a high pint from
where the entire Imja valley, the village of Pangboche and Everest, the Lhotse
wall and Ama Dablam could be seen. From this high point the trail dropped
gradually circling the hill side in a number of bends before dropping down to
the lodges of Upper Pangboche- the monastery of Pangboche is on the way and
we'd visited it to find a prayer service in progress - the monk showed us the
famous Yeti scalp which was lodged in the monastery in safe custody. Ten
minutes from the monastery we descended to the lodges of lower Pangboche.</span><br />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">Phortse to Pangboche 3950metres 27 51 22 N 86 47
34E 3 hours 30 min to 4 hours</span></span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPZBhfAZXlEw3PQPcHBW3SiqcNO8931D65jUpa4hg2KHkJTFMDbHdBcSqQ9JsCyld4SY8iEwTqYZ9DHRVXoeS5wIZN-dEV0RBXB06MkM0FgIZUKve_Hrb3FJsFK95ZOfGguo4eI3fg0Uq3yG8YWyXzs-K4eEbWPSrWxoOY1Vm05bTXKjpnGmwCR-uLg/s2200/The%20view%20from%20the%20high%20route%20between%20Phortse%20and%20Pangboche-001.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2200" data-original-width="1469" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlPZBhfAZXlEw3PQPcHBW3SiqcNO8931D65jUpa4hg2KHkJTFMDbHdBcSqQ9JsCyld4SY8iEwTqYZ9DHRVXoeS5wIZN-dEV0RBXB06MkM0FgIZUKve_Hrb3FJsFK95ZOfGguo4eI3fg0Uq3yG8YWyXzs-K4eEbWPSrWxoOY1Vm05bTXKjpnGmwCR-uLg/w428-h640/The%20view%20from%20the%20high%20route%20between%20Phortse%20and%20Pangboche-001.jpg" width="428" /></a></div><br /><span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>October 27 Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp
4500 metres </b></span></span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face=""Arial","sans-serif"" style="color: #222222; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span style="background: white;">The information available on Ama Dablam Base
Camp on the Internet has mostly been sketchy and so I decided to go up with my
group to see the base camp and check the route and the new lodges built there.
We left Pangboche around 7 15 am walked to the end of the village and passed
the last Sonam Lodge. a little ahead of the Sonam Lodge there is a path going
down to the river - take this path and in 5-10 minutes you are down to a bridge
across the Imja Khola - cross the bridge and then start climbing steadily uphill
for 30-45 minutes to reach the ridge line - there are some multiple trails but
the general direction is uphill. Reach the ridge and swing left on a flattish
trail for about 15-20 minutes. This trail then drops into a broad meadow where
we found yaks grazing and a view to the west of Pumori on the Khumbu Glacier.
From this point Pheriche could also be seen. The trail then begins another long
climb turning to the right for about an hour mostly with rocks and boulders -
it crests another ridge line where you find a sign on a rock saying Lodge 5
min. It is actually 20-30 minutes from here to the lodges! Follow the trail
which again swings right and there are large white arrows on the rocks
indicating the route. Finally turn the last bend and on a meadow there are two
lodges and the tents of the Base Camp. The altitude reads 4500 metres - a climb
of approximately 550 metres from Pangboche which could take anything between
2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on your climbing speed. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">There are two new lodges at the Base Camp - The
older Ama Dablam Base Camp lodge and the new Himalaya Lodge. Both the lodges
would be open in the spring and autumn season and would possibly close in
winter mid December to early March and again in the monsoon months June to mid
September. If you trek to the base camp it makes sense to stay the night to get
a chance to see the spectacular sunset views on Ama Dablam as well as Taboche
across the valley. You can always check in Pangboche if the lodges are open as
the lodge owners are from Pangboche. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Walking 15-20 minutes uphill from the lodges you
come to another flattish meadow where there are more tents - the main base camp
from where the climbers attempt the peak. While we were there Seven Summit
Treks had a group on the mountain and we could see the climbers through the
telescope moving very slowly on the final summit ridge. </span><br />
<span style="background: white;">Ama Dablam Base Camp is a good add on to an
Everest trek and it also helps acclimatisation. If you spend one night here you
can skip the extra night at Pheriche or Dingboche. The way down would be 2-3
hours depending on your downhill skills and can be hard on the knees.</span></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><span style="background: white;">Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp 4500 metres
2.5 to 3.5 hours up and 2 to 3 hours down.</span></span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p><span style="color: #3d85c6;"> </span>For more information on our treks and photo workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="background: white; line-height: normal; margin-bottom: 0in;"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="font-size: 12pt;"><o:p>For photos of the Himalayas do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a> </o:p></span><span style="background-color: transparent;"> </span></p><p></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-7167080277634490752023-05-29T06:07:00.001+05:302023-05-29T06:07:15.750+05:30Everest Seventy Years After the First Ascent May 29th 1953<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdgy046nI0BCbZhVT0p8aYPbuNHZa0G9T-hag03hcRNbAqULOIprCuypXOGxDBALNxwlAVtD5psxnElIOky74ISnvPEYDAVzKZslE7W-4BtZ_cr8Wy1Ss7atVHWb5wZaE1NFrrQJ31Cjc4xzAmUVkkk6T25SVh_OxfEa2gp-tWhPd-gqU-Whp8SdFLg/s1400/_DSC1429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1034" data-original-width="1400" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVdgy046nI0BCbZhVT0p8aYPbuNHZa0G9T-hag03hcRNbAqULOIprCuypXOGxDBALNxwlAVtD5psxnElIOky74ISnvPEYDAVzKZslE7W-4BtZ_cr8Wy1Ss7atVHWb5wZaE1NFrrQJ31Cjc4xzAmUVkkk6T25SVh_OxfEa2gp-tWhPd-gqU-Whp8SdFLg/w640-h472/_DSC1429.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">A condensed version of this article appears in The Hindu May 28th 2023</span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Book Antiqua, serif; font-size: 14.6667px;"><a href="https://www.thehindu.com/society/everest-70-years-later/article66873075.ece">https://www.thehindu.com/society/everest-70-years-later/article66873075.ece</a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;">On
28<sup>th</sup> May 1953, two men started out from the South Col of Everest at
around 26,000 feet to set up Camp Nine at 27,900 feet. Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa
had attempted Everest six times and failed. Edmund Hillary, a bee keeper from
New Zealand, was on the mountain for the second time, having accompanied Eric
Shipton on the Everest Reconnaissance in 1951. The British had made eight
attempts on Everest since 1921 and this could well be their last chance. In the year of the coronation of Queen
Elizabeth II, it was imperative that they succeed. Camp IX at 27,900 feet would
be the highest that men had ever slept. The next morning dawned clear and still as
Tenzing pointed out the tiny dot of Tengboche monastery, 16,000 feet below,
where the Rimpoche had prayed for the safe return of the team. “God of my
father and mother be good to me today” prayed Tenzing. Hillary’s boots were
frozen and he had a tough job trying to unfreeze them for the climb. The duo started
out at 6.30 am and at 11.30 am on 29th May 1953 history was made as the two men
stood on the summit of Everest. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">The
first ascent of Everest was followed by three decades of successful high-altitude
mountaineering in the Himalayas. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">After the
fourteen 8000 metre peaks were climbed, climbers turned their attention on new
routes and unclimbed walls. On Everest itself, in 1963, an American team led by
Willi Unsoeld and Tom Horbein summitted the peak by the west ridge. In an astounding
feat, they completed the first traverse of the mountain through the night by
descending the south East Ridge down to the South Col. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">In 1975 a British team led by Chris Bonington
laid siege to the south west face of Everest and completed the first ascent of
this huge wall. In 1978 Messner and Habeler accomplished the first ascent
without supplementary oxygen and again in 1980 Messner set a new benchmark by
making a solo ascent of the mountain completely unsupported from the north
side. In 1983 an American team climbed the avalanche ravaged the Kangshung face,
one of the last great challenges of Everest. And by the early nineties, the
stage was set for the first guided climbs on the mountain.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">May
2023 marks seventy years of the first ascent of Everest and it is interesting
to see that the lure of Everest has not diminished in any way. Mountaineers
dream to stand on the highest point on earth, every trekker’s bucket list
includes Everest Base Camp and once the Everest season begins in April, arm
chair travelers follow internet dispatches with great interest as this drama of
life and death is played out every year. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Sadly, the mountain has now become a
playground for guided expeditions, with rich clients paying up to sixty
thousand dollars and more for a chance to be guided to the summit.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">But
there are many changes since the days of Hillary and Tenzing. The South Col
route climbed in 1953 is now disdainfully referred to as the “yak trail”. The
dangerous icefall below the Western Cwm is maintained by a team of sherpas
right through the season led by a senior “Icefall Doctor.” In order to make it
possible for inexperienced clients to summit Everest, the entire mountain has
fixed rope from bottom to top. Climbers assisted by their sherpas clip onto the
fixed rope and move up the mountain. Helicopters also play a major role on the
mountain today. There are stories of rich climbers after completing their acclimatization
routine and rotation on the mountain flying to Namche Bazar to a plush hotel or
even Kathmandu to recuperate for a few days before their summit bid. 1953 it
took the British team around three weeks to walk from Banepa outside Kathmandu
to the base camp, a journey which would now take 45 minutes in a helicopter.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Due to the limited “summit windows” when the
jet stream winds stop and the weather is stable, human traffic jams on the summit
ridge are the order of the day. In May 2019, Nirmal Purja, who climbed all the 8000
metre peaks in less than seven months, published a photo of a long line of
climbers in a jam which went viral and provoked a huge uproar. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Due to the slow progress, climbers were stranded
barely two hundred feet below the summit for upto two hours in minus 20C
temperatures and gale force winds waiting for the human jam to clear. Many of
them had finished their oxygen and were at great risk on the mountain. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">In the quest to reach the summit at all costs “turn
around times” as set by the guides are often ignored resulting in a number of fatal
casualties. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">In 1996 twelve climbers died
on the mountain, eight in a single day. Again in 2006 on the north side eleven
climbers lost their lives and in 2012 ten climbers lost their lives.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">But
sadly, the support Sherpas without whom Everest would not be climbed are at
highest risk. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">In 2014 a serac collapsed
in the Icefall and 16 sherpas died. There was a huge uproar from the sherpa
families demanding better compensation and insurance and they closed the
climbing season that year. Sadly, again in 2015 the Nepal earthquake resulted
in a huge avalanche in the Icefall and 22 climbers including sherpas lost their
lives in the worst disaster on the mountain. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">“Everest
was not a private affair, it belonged to many men” wrote Tom Horbein in his classic
book, Everest the West Ridge. Horbein who passed away on May 6</span><sup style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif;">th</sup><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">
2023 at the ripe old age of 92, just a few days short of the sixtieth
anniversary of the first West Ridge climb, could hardly have imagined that
Everest would become a public arena with news and dispatches beamed off the mountain
as the action takes place. Most expeditions set up large communication tents at
Base Camp with laptops, video and sound equipment </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">connected to the climbers on the mountain.
Daily news bulletins, photographs and video are uploaded onto internet sites,
social media and news channels for viewers back home.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">In
2023, Kami Rita Sherpa climbed Everest twice and now leads at 28 ascents as
compared to his nearest rival </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Pasang
Dawa Sherpa </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">who has ascended Everest 27
times including two ascents in 2023.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">In
the 1996 disaster on Everest, leading guide Rob Hall was benighted near the
summit with his client Doug Hansen. Hall would not abandon Hansen and remained
with him as a fierce storm raged on Everest. Base Camp was able to connect Hall
to his pregnant wife in New Zealand. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">“Sleep well my sweetheart, please don’t worry
too much” said Hall signing off as the world watched the disaster unfold. Twelve
days later IMAX filmmaker David Breashears and Ed Viesturs climbing near the
south summit found Hall’s body in an ice hollow.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Though
rescue on 8000 metre peaks is getting more sophisticated with the example of
the recent long line helicopter rescue on Annapurna of Indian climber Baljeet Kaur
in April 2023, it still remains an arduous and dangerous task to rescue a
climber from the death zone above 8000 metres. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">There have been many horrific stories like the
one of David Sharpe in 2006 who lay below the first step of Everest on the
north side badly frostbitten and unable to move. Many climbers passed him by
and spoke to him as well but none could help him. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Sharpe died that night on that cold and
inhospitable ridge which has been the death knell of many a climber. Most Everest
experts agree that a rescue above the “death zone” is an immensely difficult
proposition and beyond the ability of “guided clients” most of whom are
struggling to stay alive themselves.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">One
of the most daring rescues carried out on the mountain during the guided era is
worth recounting. In 1996, Beck Weathers part of the Mountain Madness team led
by Scott Fischer was left for dead on the South Col. Miraculously Beck survived
the night and staggered into camp the next morning. From the South Col, Beck was
helped down to the Western Cwm where at an altitude of around 20,000 feet, Captain
Madan Chettri, a dare devil helicopter pilot evacuated him to a hospital in
Kathmandu without landing the helicopter, an incredible feat in those days.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">Reinhold
Messner, who was the first to climb all the fourteen 8000 metre peaks says “Everest
has become a tourist mountain and clients pay sherpas to be brought to the summit.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">The
commercialization of Everest has led to a number of best-selling books on the
triumph and tragedy that is played out at these altitudes. The most famous is undoubtedly
Jon Krakauer’s into Thin Air which has sold more than three million copies. For
the dark side of an Everest climb, Dark Summit by Nick Heil covering the
infamous 2006 season and High Crimes by Michael Kodas are worth a read.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Book Antiqua",serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">But
despite there being more than ten thousand ascents on the mountain since 1953,
Everest is still Everest. In the words of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, “I needed to
go and the pull of Everest was greater than any force on earth.” </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;">And as I write this more than 450 climbers and
possibly a similar number of sherpas in support are getting ready to jumar up
the fixed ropes to the highest and most sacred place of all – the summit of
Everest. </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Book Antiqua", serif; font-size: 11pt;"> </span></p></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-82062168133722466672023-03-14T13:58:00.002+05:302023-03-14T14:20:49.865+05:30New Roads in the Annapurna Region | Nepal<p><br /></p><p>
</p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfYqb5GhHHyCSduj9U6GwE9V0AI-QzfnoBrG55fMpGJ-p6auQcPn4BO_tdSm3hK096kLy-jHrbu1xgCT0juY8htGwTecEAlWr9X6xBDm7Lu1fuLKkOFT9ArCMOU5lNgRIy3QuZfnkGO4KK2NT1uhkInedkcdJjdaCRf7MGEUFx-fdZUmy9BN1VQh95Hw/s640/2-_DSC0716.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="428" data-original-width="640" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfYqb5GhHHyCSduj9U6GwE9V0AI-QzfnoBrG55fMpGJ-p6auQcPn4BO_tdSm3hK096kLy-jHrbu1xgCT0juY8htGwTecEAlWr9X6xBDm7Lu1fuLKkOFT9ArCMOU5lNgRIy3QuZfnkGO4KK2NT1uhkInedkcdJjdaCRf7MGEUFx-fdZUmy9BN1VQh95Hw/w640-h428/2-_DSC0716.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><o:p><p class="MsoNormal"><o:p><br /></o:p></p> </o:p>In the last few years
a large number of new roads have come up in the Annapurna region (most of them
remain as dirt tracks for four wheel drive jeeps) and these roads can reduce
the trekking days for popular treks in the region. I list some of these roads
below and give the cost of a reserved jeep in some cases where I have used
them.<p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Kimche</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Kimche is about 1 hours
walking below Ghandrung and this road goes upto Nayapul (black top) and then on
a dirt track to Kimche – the black top section is quite good now and the whole
journey by jeep takes about 2 hours. There are also buses running from the
Pokhara bus park. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>NPR 9000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Ghandrung</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">It is possible now to
go all the way upto Ghandrung by taking a lower road (not the Kimche one) by
jeep and it would take about 2.5 hours to reach Ghandrung. An early departure
from Pokhara would make it possible to trek to Tadapani the same day. NPR
10,000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Kimrong Danda</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">The same road which
goes to Ghandrung carries on further to Kimrong Danda possibly a 30 minutes
drive from Ghandrung. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Landrung</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">The approach to the
Annapurna Base Camp trek would be shortened by a day or more by driving to
Landrung in about 3 hours and heading up to Jhinu Danda the same day. But there
is also now a road which is ending below Jhinu so for ABC trekkers looking to
save time this would be the better option (see below). NPR 12,000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to below Jhinu Danda</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">This road goes near
Jhinu Danda in about 3-3.5 hours from Pokhara so from here you could walk to
Chomrong the same day. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>NPR 12,000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Dhampus</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">This walk from Phedi
is now effectively over as the road goes all the way to Dhampus in about 1 hour
minutes from Pokhara. You could do a day trek in this region walking from
Dhampus to Australian Camp and then down to Kande to meet the road and back to
Pokhara. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Pitam Deorali</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pitam Deorali is the
usual first day’s stop for the Mardi Himal trek but now it is possible to drive
here in about 2 to 2.5 hours and go to Forest Camp the same day if you can
leave Pokhara by 7 am.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Mardi Himal Roads</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">There are the
following options for the Mardi trek depending on where you enter or exit the
trek:<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Siding 2
hours NPR 8000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Kalimati <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1 hour 30 min<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Pokhara to Lawang 1
hour 30 min<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Ghorepani Trek</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">The road now goes upto
Banthanti and it is being steadily pushed towards Ghorepani. From Banthanti to
Nayapul would be about 50 min and 1 hour 15 min to Pokhara from there. NPR
10,000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Khopra Trek</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">There are different
approaches and exits for this trek but if you walk from Khopra to Swanta you
can get a jeep from here to Pokhara via Beni which takes 4-5 hours. NPR
18,000/-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span><b><span style="color: #0070c0; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Annapurna Circuit Roads</span></b></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">The Annapurna Circuit
trek has been impacted by roads on both sides – along the Marsyandi from
Besisahar to Manang and along the Kali Gandaki from
Pokhara-Beni-Jomsom-Muktinath. The dirt track from Jomsom goes past Kagbeni all
the way to Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang possibly changing the standard Mustang
trek to a jeep safari. Regarding the circuit the upper route from Pisang to
Manang is still spectacular and after two day acclimatisation in Manang you
could attempt Tilicho/ Thorung La. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> However some alternative walking trails have been built on the other side of the river (referred to as the NAAT trails) and these do by pass the roads to a great extent. The only thing is that th trekking experience in not so enjoyable as you can hear the cars and motorbikes on the other side.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span>For more information
on our treks and workshops please visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com/">www.southcol.com</a> or contact sujoyrdas@gmail.com </p><br /><p></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com1Pokhara, Nepal28.2095831 83.9855674-0.10065073617884579 48.829317399999994 56.519816936178842 119.1418174tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-37100224441695143202022-06-08T05:00:00.002+05:302022-06-08T14:06:12.810+05:30Mallory and Irvine | 8th June 1924 | 98 Years After<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BIT_Cjg8LLUMlwbZxrSHAMr_v-vj41Y3QEd94zWXgatUvMJ-pNG28PUT4_Mu0EDJW4JRQn-oKwMBMm3f5KKS6vCZdyEWZfRR7AlEe8LVeNDPL2YBoelmOHwZ8hXPLwioV9JfQfxVSzfRZPLQzaa5Wu0Z7QpwEYrcNcpvHWR-C56Z3vBAwydsp_6Z4w/s1400/Mallory%20and%20Irvine.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="1400" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7BIT_Cjg8LLUMlwbZxrSHAMr_v-vj41Y3QEd94zWXgatUvMJ-pNG28PUT4_Mu0EDJW4JRQn-oKwMBMm3f5KKS6vCZdyEWZfRR7AlEe8LVeNDPL2YBoelmOHwZ8hXPLwioV9JfQfxVSzfRZPLQzaa5Wu0Z7QpwEYrcNcpvHWR-C56Z3vBAwydsp_6Z4w/w640-h320/Mallory%20and%20Irvine.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">On 8th June 1924, two men left Camp VI (26,700 feet) to make an attempt for the summit of Everest. </span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Camp VI was the highest camp of the British 1924 Everest expedition.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">On the same morning, another British climber, Noel Odell, was making his way up from Camp IV to Camp VI. Odell was a geologist and he was collecting fossils from the slopes of Mount Everest. Odell recalls that it was not the perfect morning to climb Everest. " Rolling banks of mist" were sweeping across the mountain and covering the north face. Neither the face nor the summit ridge could be seen by Odell. There was also a sharp wind which was making climbing very difficult.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Suddenly at 12.50 pm the mist cleared and Odell spotted high above on the ridge, a black dot climbing a rock step, which Odell at that point identified as the Second Step. Soon after Odell saw another black dot following the first black dot. But before Odell could be sure that the second black dot had joined the first, the mist rolled in and blanketed the mountain and this fantastic vision was lost forever.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">The two dots that Odell saw were George Mallory and Andrew Irvine "going strongly for the summit of Everest". </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Mallory and Irvine were never seen again.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Mallory body was found by Conrad Anker in 1999. Irvine has not been found. A few weeks ago some startling news emerged from Mark Synott who was part of a Nat Geo expedition to find Andrew Irvine in 2019. Synott mentioned that he had evidence to prove that Irvine had been found by the Chinese and also his camera. The camera film could not be processed by the Chinese and with it died the secret of the last climb of Mallory and Irvine. See the link below for the article.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://www.salon.com/2022/04/08/the-third-pole-mount-everest-mark-synnott-mystery-china/">https://www.salon.com/2022/04/08/the-third-pole-mount-everest-mark-synnott-mystery-china/</a><br style="background-color: white;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" />But the legend of George Mallory and his last climb lives on.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">In this post we take a look at some photographs and other memorabilia from the Everest expeditions of 1921, 1922 and 1924.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OHA9TpMQWtQ/WTOmIEnYcvI/AAAAAAAALjs/_4FqNtoY_7A8ltBb6C57U0n2gJN8zWoLwCLcB/s1600/_DSC0265.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="838" data-original-width="1200" height="446" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OHA9TpMQWtQ/WTOmIEnYcvI/AAAAAAAALjs/_4FqNtoY_7A8ltBb6C57U0n2gJN8zWoLwCLcB/s640/_DSC0265.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">The 1921 expedition team - Mallory sitting first left</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PdioRTfBDU4/WTS6A55af6I/AAAAAAAALk4/IvGevr-FTzoJ2yrhFhXBaObaSGjwQut6wCLcB/s1600/5144372_f260.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="441" data-original-width="260" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PdioRTfBDU4/WTS6A55af6I/AAAAAAAALk4/IvGevr-FTzoJ2yrhFhXBaObaSGjwQut6wCLcB/s640/5144372_f260.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="376" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Mallory and Irvine boarding S. S. California on their way to India in 1924 </td></tr></tbody></table><p><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bwvXBtAPu0yd0838Na_tHubbDW62j-lojPz7Vj5zCtZu7l0uuCryE5hRnLyo9l5KCVjtahyphenhyphenAUR0O4JfeLjf9SCNFHUzZf4iIK-CiNsjD824vQmXZBMGL4BlFLucVLn_99Bvy67j85WkU/s1600/IMG_0419.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="640" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5bwvXBtAPu0yd0838Na_tHubbDW62j-lojPz7Vj5zCtZu7l0uuCryE5hRnLyo9l5KCVjtahyphenhyphenAUR0O4JfeLjf9SCNFHUzZf4iIK-CiNsjD824vQmXZBMGL4BlFLucVLn_99Bvy67j85WkU/s640/IMG_0419.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Irvine working on oxygen cylinders on the1924 expedition</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4adrT2R4gog/WTOmJd_YwqI/AAAAAAAALj0/K46l4vPkDJAnY1tUfJnil0ziGyN7KCc1ACEw/s1600/_DSC0271.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="862" data-original-width="1200" height="458" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4adrT2R4gog/WTOmJd_YwqI/AAAAAAAALj0/K46l4vPkDJAnY1tUfJnil0ziGyN7KCc1ACEw/s640/_DSC0271.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Members of the 1924 expedition - Standing from left Irvine, Mallory, Norton, Odell, Macdonald. In front: Shebbeare, Bruce, Somervell, Beetham. Members not in the photo : Noel, Hingston, Hazard.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimCKu6ucny4u6Epp01Q4zHmLmr6d8v7v9J7c1sU2yQMq7Syk8UMzGvmEJXbmlmf_GmI5z3cHrO0QA1U1hNUas-X9P0QYB1W6E7XRtjhkiLN0xJWJSTX8uJk-B_mCtxaA2rVR6EmDmwBXp1/s1600/norton+and+somervell.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="967" data-original-width="1200" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimCKu6ucny4u6Epp01Q4zHmLmr6d8v7v9J7c1sU2yQMq7Syk8UMzGvmEJXbmlmf_GmI5z3cHrO0QA1U1hNUas-X9P0QYB1W6E7XRtjhkiLN0xJWJSTX8uJk-B_mCtxaA2rVR6EmDmwBXp1/s640/norton+and+somervell.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Norton and Somervell with their sherpas before the summit attempt<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-baZg1QbXmpE/WTOmObNOOOI/AAAAAAAALkI/lhoI7Uzaw7ANMCm3tm7aGgmxT01vh0WagCEw/s1600/route.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="1200" height="314" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-baZg1QbXmpE/WTOmObNOOOI/AAAAAAAALkI/lhoI7Uzaw7ANMCm3tm7aGgmxT01vh0WagCEw/s640/route.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Route map of Norton and Somervell's attempt</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7c9glQMQ6zc/WTOmMkwWNbI/AAAAAAAALkA/sACLdHCr82gJRu1NZe4q93fLwBubTmU_ACEw/s1600/_DSC0444.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="981" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7c9glQMQ6zc/WTOmMkwWNbI/AAAAAAAALkA/sACLdHCr82gJRu1NZe4q93fLwBubTmU_ACEw/s640/_DSC0444.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="522" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Norton set an altitude record in 1924 without oxygen reaching 8570 metres which remained unchallenged until Messner and Habeler climbed Everest in 1978 without oxygen<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H_GpGtg2ODg/WTOqsrjgGjI/AAAAAAAALkY/AwWzUU9d6DI6PYY2-b-JCbSuMj1A3LAQACLcB/s1600/_DSC0264.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="759" data-original-width="1200" height="404" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H_GpGtg2ODg/WTOqsrjgGjI/AAAAAAAALkY/AwWzUU9d6DI6PYY2-b-JCbSuMj1A3LAQACLcB/s640/_DSC0264.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></div><br />Last photo of Mallory and Irvine leaving for Camp VI 1924<br /><br /><img src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CVdmHvoViTk/VXG30_h99EI/AAAAAAAAJYY/XVVjqqtwD5g/s1600/3-_DSC0267.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px;" /><br /><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: x-small;">The list of provisions for the summit climb found on Mallory's body - he planned to be on 2 cylinders of oxygen. Please note the rations on the left!</span><br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--59kBL3GMGc/WTOqsjXrUBI/AAAAAAAALkc/BHQh3EL9ZQw-tlLozmVQTNdcUVBVUIaoACLcB/s1600/note%2Bto%2Bnoel.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="908" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--59kBL3GMGc/WTOqsjXrUBI/AAAAAAAALkc/BHQh3EL9ZQw-tlLozmVQTNdcUVBVUIaoACLcB/s640/note%2Bto%2Bnoel.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="484" /></a></div>The 8 pm in the note to Noel should be 8 am<br /><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBSWKoN_WHw/WTOqsocEveI/AAAAAAAALkU/mj86tIHm2qQZWE5g58nO5iegtDA_ImoCgCLcB/s1600/_DSC0269.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="780" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DBSWKoN_WHw/WTOqsocEveI/AAAAAAAALkU/mj86tIHm2qQZWE5g58nO5iegtDA_ImoCgCLcB/s640/_DSC0269.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="416" /></a></div>Mallory had no compass on his last climb<br /><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RjM_TrZQUrI/WTOqt06dE6I/AAAAAAAALkg/hTXCGLV7oKEcwVSErVFtpwWES6Q46OGWwCLcB/s1600/route%2Bodell.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="1200" height="362" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RjM_TrZQUrI/WTOqt06dE6I/AAAAAAAALkg/hTXCGLV7oKEcwVSErVFtpwWES6Q46OGWwCLcB/s640/route%2Bodell.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: center;">Map showing position of Odell and the last sighting of Mallory and Irvine</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NozPDBtt9YI/WTOor0AEgVI/AAAAAAAALkM/VyM4S26KXz0tv1oSiVktSvq62VitmsFmACLcB/s1600/cairn.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1043" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NozPDBtt9YI/WTOor0AEgVI/AAAAAAAALkM/VyM4S26KXz0tv1oSiVktSvq62VitmsFmACLcB/s640/cairn.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="556" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uGzBHxv-LZ4/WTS4y2B4lYI/AAAAAAAALk0/wMc4sD-xp14qD3Bf9PWhgcljsy1ulb02wCLcB/s1600/news-001.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="869" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uGzBHxv-LZ4/WTS4y2B4lYI/AAAAAAAALk0/wMc4sD-xp14qD3Bf9PWhgcljsy1ulb02wCLcB/s640/news-001.jpg" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 5px; position: relative;" width="462" /></a></div><p><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: x-small; text-align: center;"> </span><span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #073763;"> </span><span style="color: #3d85c6;"> </span></span><span style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;"> </span><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;">".</span><span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;"><i><b>.... some day you will hear a different story..." George Mallory</b></i></span></span></span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;"><i><b><br /></b></i></span></span></span><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"></span><span face=""trebuchet ms", trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; text-align: center;"><b>All photographs reproduced above are copyright of Royal Geographical Society, John Noel Photographic Collection and their respective owners. </b></span></span></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com4Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-12676339471475297182022-01-26T12:44:00.003+05:302022-02-07T17:12:06.078+05:30The Hunt for Mount Everest by Craig Storti | Book Review<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi1ZMXsgY_nmqtgLEeSIpcUFu8V_OS0vjbm8kamhafRjqQqwZqW6ApAFBN3YisYEUua1atNNWPRbnjltD3Nfu5lwx8Mke-XG1VIIu7eBWuYwZ8zQdkVyBrxAZXMZwh6wXdU6qH_mhYaX0_Ym_snIwZan94gFH5CrvkjACqPPYn4Lbv8Oqkh1YXF0m15qQ=s2148" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="2148" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi1ZMXsgY_nmqtgLEeSIpcUFu8V_OS0vjbm8kamhafRjqQqwZqW6ApAFBN3YisYEUua1atNNWPRbnjltD3Nfu5lwx8Mke-XG1VIIu7eBWuYwZ8zQdkVyBrxAZXMZwh6wXdU6qH_mhYaX0_Ym_snIwZan94gFH5CrvkjACqPPYn4Lbv8Oqkh1YXF0m15qQ=w640-h446" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"> </span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Members of the 1921 Everest Reconnaissance Expedition</span> </b></span></div><p></p><p>This review was first published in The Hindu on August 7th 2021</p><p><a href="https://www.thehindu.com/books/books-reviews/the-hunt-for-mount-everest-review-the-giant-among-pygmies/article35759391.ece">https://www.thehindu.com/books/books-reviews/the-hunt-for-mount-everest-review-the-giant-among-pygmies/article35759391.ece</a></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjT8V6y6lkbDrcdZ2sPsj764L8ynl7KVzA9EqFdI9M9dz8Wia8oRpQitZD3KT8Ctn9lGzmnAs83f1s8cSpZuygh-3lJcy73QiGzss3F4dmIix22ve-zkG5PLTDzcXPcaJZ7lM2ijfH8rhHHm1iDvhw9pC1P-ncebmanYElgH2tZp0xwB0xBf6phqDwHdw=s708" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="708" data-original-width="460" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjT8V6y6lkbDrcdZ2sPsj764L8ynl7KVzA9EqFdI9M9dz8Wia8oRpQitZD3KT8Ctn9lGzmnAs83f1s8cSpZuygh-3lJcy73QiGzss3F4dmIix22ve-zkG5PLTDzcXPcaJZ7lM2ijfH8rhHHm1iDvhw9pC1P-ncebmanYElgH2tZp0xwB0xBf6phqDwHdw=w208-h320" width="208" /></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">For most climbers and armchair mountaineers, the
history of Everest begins with an Indian surveyor named Radhanath Sikdar
rushing into the office of the Surveyor General of India around the 1850s, and
announcing “Sir, I have found the highest mountain in the world!” Craig Storti</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">in his opening chapter “Peak XV” casts his
doubts on this story </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman", "serif"; font-size: 12pt;">and attributes the
discovery of Everest to the Surveyor General Andrew Waugh jointly with John
Hennessey and Sikdar.</span></div><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> In 1921, around
seventy odd years later, the British launched the first expedition to find the
route to the mountain. But, the extraordinary
events which took place in between remain largely unknown, other than through
some books on Tibet, The Great Game and early Himalayan expeditions.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">In his book, Storti brings this all together and conjures up a
racy narrative with larger than life characters that tells this story starting
with an audacious mission to Lhasa in 1903 by Sir Francis Younghusband which in
fact unlocked the key for the British to claim Everest as their own mountain. <span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">In 1893 Younghusband and Charles Bruce were walking
across the polo grounds in Chitral on the North West Frontier when they
conjured up a plan to sneak into Tibet and explore the region around Everest.
This plan finally saw the light of day in 1921.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> Lord Curzon, who
arrived in India in 1899 as Viceroy, was instrumental in the sending the
Younghusband Mission to Lhasa. Curzon remained obsessed with Tibet and was a
part of Great Game between Britain and Russia. He was determined to reach Tibet
before the Russians did. In 1904 Younghusband finally entered Lhasa, but not
before the British troops had mowed down hapless Tibetans using machine gun fire
at a spot called Guru, south of Gyantse. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">From 1904 to 1913, Storti chronicles the
explorations of Cecil Rawling, John Noel and Alexander Kellas, three of the
most important players in the early history of Everest. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> Rawling was
sent by Younghusband to cross and map eight hundred miles of Tibet in 1905. Rawling and map maker Charles Ryder, of the
Survey of India, crossed a 5000 metre pass, the Kura La, and were possibly the
first Westerners to see Everest “Towering up thousands of feet, a glittering
pinnacle of snow… a giant amongst pygmies.” The expedition then dropped down to
the Tingri plains which would later become the main route to the base of the
mountain.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> Captain John
Noel, a gifted photographer and cinematographer, decided in 1913 without
permission of the Lhasa Government to leave Darjeeling and search for Everest.
Relying on the maps of Sarat Chandra Das, one of the Pundits, who had been into
Tibet in 1887 and 1891, Noel entered Tibet through the Choten Nyima La in north
Sikkim but was unfortunately stopped by the Dzongpen of Tinki and his men but
not before Noel got a tantalizing view of Mount Everest around forty miles
away.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> Alexander </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">Kellas</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">, the reticent Scottish
chemist,</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;"> has always been overshadowed by</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">
likes of </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;"> Mallory,</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> Bruce and Norton, </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;"> but Everest historian Walt
Unsworth wrote of Kellas “in terms of Himalayan experience he was the greatest
of all.”</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">
</span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri;">He undertook eight Himalayan expeditions
between 1907 and 1921 and made five first ascents of peaks in north Sikkim including Pauhunri, Kangchenjau and Chomiomo, assisted solely by sherpa porters. </span><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">But the most fascinating part of Kellas’s journey
was his photographs from the Kharta and Kama valleys east of Everest in 1913
even though there is no official record of his entering Tibet. These
photographs were presented in a Royal Geographical Society lecture by John Noel
in 1919 which fired the British imagination and set the ball rolling for the
first expedition to Everest. Charles
Bell, who was British India’s “de-facto ambassador to Tibet”, managed to convince the 13<sup>th</sup> Dalai
Lama to grant permission to the British.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Storti’s fascinating tale now comes to a climax with
the Everest Reconnaissance Expedition of 1921. As George Mallory had said “ It
would be necessary in the first place to find the mountain.” <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">The 1921 expedition did just that leaving Darjeeling
on a wet May morning, entering leech infested and rain drenched Sikkim,
crossing the Jelep La into the cool dry air of the Chumbi valley in Tibet, and
travelled north and then west to Khamba Dzong, Tingri and finally up the
Rongbuk valley. From this now famous viewpoint, Mallory and Bullock were the
first Westerners to see that huge
uninterrupted view of the north face of Everest. In Mallory’s words “The
highest of the world’s great mountains… has to make but a single gesture of its
magnificence to be lord of all.” <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> In the final
chapter, Storti brings to life the oft overlooked role of Oliver Wheeler, the
map maker, who discovered the approach to the north col of Everest, 7020m, through the East Rongbuk
Glacier, which was the highest point reached by the expedition. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">Immaculately researched and presented, <i>The Hunt for Mount Everest</i>, which was
forty years in the making, fills a valuable gap in the early history of Everest
and is recommended reading for all Everest historians and aficionados.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;">For more photographs of Everest and other peaks in the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-48488523709811583182022-01-07T15:31:00.003+05:302022-03-03T14:18:02.542+05:30Mardi Himal Trek Nepal December 2021 | Route and Timings<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzbIHn0FXHCRmuq2KkA9SbwLfjG0jztCs0lVXRtbf3fX5lf3Gh4aSCK0izdndB_uHRhCmrfZsuvfPF8gEVMToqbHKKfl3jlkwPxB2cS2Fqn8UYKn7zgaVfvqxE_rEOm6aT_gbwVBexlZFkCaR0TjOXnp4YTTNzhmlPtPh40pdXJS19UIvXpovIVVA5eg=s1024" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1024" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgzbIHn0FXHCRmuq2KkA9SbwLfjG0jztCs0lVXRtbf3fX5lf3Gh4aSCK0izdndB_uHRhCmrfZsuvfPF8gEVMToqbHKKfl3jlkwPxB2cS2Fqn8UYKn7zgaVfvqxE_rEOm6aT_gbwVBexlZFkCaR0TjOXnp4YTTNzhmlPtPh40pdXJS19UIvXpovIVVA5eg=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>A <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">South Col </a>team walked to Mardi Himal in December 2021 in perfect weather. Here is the detailed description of the route and the timings. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjrF6J84WujwJAMM9Sw21EedJKpEH9BamQLyK3k1fXlIqxZURP-oH0hFK-QsXOtah1apQsmIO1dG0WlkiR5iZYLW61phCzIFkzs2pilYvfUDDNjgy6ICEOSjvxmYRwyQq3wyOfVseuIvs2g4T39z6zyaVSpXb99LyKcL5iYVsEsi21NlrmJeFYlkG2iLQ=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjrF6J84WujwJAMM9Sw21EedJKpEH9BamQLyK3k1fXlIqxZURP-oH0hFK-QsXOtah1apQsmIO1dG0WlkiR5iZYLW61phCzIFkzs2pilYvfUDDNjgy6ICEOSjvxmYRwyQq3wyOfVseuIvs2g4T39z6zyaVSpXb99LyKcL5iYVsEsi21NlrmJeFYlkG2iLQ=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p><b><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">December </span></span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #2b00fe; font-size: 11pt;">6th 2021 Pokhara to Kande by road and
walk to Pitam Deorali </span></b></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">We left Kathmandu for Pokhara by the 8 30 am
flight - luckily for us the weather was good this morning and we reached
Pokhara by 10 am - a micro bus was waiting for us and we drove upto </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">Kande in a hour - the road was very good upto
Kande and had been newly resurfaced. We started out from Kande at 11 15 am and
climbed steeply for the first 45 minutes mainly on steps; there were very few
trekkers on the route - we got to Australian camp in an hour and 15 min - the
clouds had come in by noon and the famous view from there </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">we did not see this time. </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">We took a short break
and then walked down to Pothana in 25 minutes through a beautiful forested
section. We stopped for lunch at Heaven’s Gate, our usual lodge, in the
sunshine. </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">From Pothana the trail to
Pitam Deorali had large sections where a new road is being built and there are
signs in yellow pointing the trekker to the forest trail which criss-crosses
the road - on the way soon after Pothana a new lodge was being built in
the forest sadly cutting a number of trees - a lodge so close to Pothana did
not make sense as Pothana has a number of good lodges. </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"> </span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">Again just before Pitam Deorali there is a new
lodge which has been built in a clearing again by cutting down part of the
forest. The weather was breaking when we reached Deorali and in the evening
there was a heavy thunderstorm with lightning and thunder and rain for around
two hours which would have deposited a lot of snow in the higher altitudes
around Mardi High camp - in the evening after the rain we could see all the
lights of Pokhara valley and on the other side across the valley the
lights of Ghandrung as well - the stars were just coming out in the sky and
clouds studded across the rapidly clearing sky.</span></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="background: white;"> Kande to
Australian Camp 2050m 28 18 13N 83 49 40E 1 hr 15 min to 30
min Australian Camp to Pothana 25 min 1950m 28 18 47 N 83 49 49E</span></span></i><i><span style="color: #222222;"><br />
<span style="background: white;">Pothana to Pitam Deorali 1 hour 2140m 28 19 48N
83 49 47E 2100 metres</span></span></i></span></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i><span style="color: #222222;"><span></span></span></i></span></p><a name='more'></a><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i><span style="color: #222222;"><span style="background: white;"><br /></span></span></i></span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i></i></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgik94zm9VIK5I2WnrLzDKv_RBG5BRX5SRi3_a6mnTOlUnqrenOpG0a6YaMXCtRvP1chShpLIrWFd3LPnNAwXCJJTf-rcUbTUO1Q5OMOIzNW7NKAdeL3xxajIuPccMO_WEvEz1UZCtWoLJcme33LQHpW3m8_JHqz0DqbY44LhHs46gYUG-JI37c4iU5vg=s2000" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="2000" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgik94zm9VIK5I2WnrLzDKv_RBG5BRX5SRi3_a6mnTOlUnqrenOpG0a6YaMXCtRvP1chShpLIrWFd3LPnNAwXCJJTf-rcUbTUO1Q5OMOIzNW7NKAdeL3xxajIuPccMO_WEvEz1UZCtWoLJcme33LQHpW3m8_JHqz0DqbY44LhHs46gYUG-JI37c4iU5vg=w640-h100" width="640" /></a></i></div><i><br /></i><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">December 7th 2021 Pitam Deorali to Forest Camp
2550 metres</span></b></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><b><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></b>
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;">The morning was incredibly clear with fresh snow
on the peaks after last night’s rain - we got away around 8.40 am after
breakfast and in a few minutes came to a brand new lodge with a nice garden and
a good view - the new Lali Guras guest house- soon after there was another new
restaurant coming up Nature Lover Restaurant. The walk today was mostly though
the forest.</span></span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjwXlh9FtX4RWCLS23MSFr0ajstxIN2wNcltYuuNWUeFzYKHOPoZ1QSRFtHE8-jHAAKJSw1yCKYgSuTNFpT9W5HjWYc-SCnUsU45593uFhpImch5DUrCadsXYxhlWYET1ndFm_sw-gqpIJsyePUe2HVzLqTUlQ-bZKdkVWC4gch45rAeRreX-phZnJDSg=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjwXlh9FtX4RWCLS23MSFr0ajstxIN2wNcltYuuNWUeFzYKHOPoZ1QSRFtHE8-jHAAKJSw1yCKYgSuTNFpT9W5HjWYc-SCnUsU45593uFhpImch5DUrCadsXYxhlWYET1ndFm_sw-gqpIJsyePUe2HVzLqTUlQ-bZKdkVWC4gch45rAeRreX-phZnJDSg=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span>
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"> From here the trail started climbing
steeply on typical Nepal steps which carried on for around 40-45 minutes until
it reached a clearing where another new lodge was coming up Suiredanda at an
altitude around 2400 metres. The trail climbs up on steps again and in about 5
minutes reached a ridge with gentle ups and downs and in 30 minutes reaches a
small blue shelter with a sign to Forest Camp and a trail on the left going
down to Lawang. From here the trail goes up and finally drops steeply for 15
minutes to a small pool and a small tea shop which was closed - this was one
hour from Suiredanda. There was a sign here which said Dudh Kharka 45 minutes.
The trail then climbs steeply for about 25 minutes gaining the lost altitude
and comes to a clearing about 2530 metres - the trail then levels out again and
in another 20 minutes reaches the two lodges of Dudh Kharka about 3 hours from
Deorali. There is a good view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchare from here. We
stopped for a tea break and then started climbing gently through the forest -
in 30 minutes we reached a new lodge Hotel Demand at Mushalbari with another
good view of the mountains. From here
there is a trail heading down to Kalimati from where the jeep is also
available. We continued the walk through the forest and about 35 minutes we
reached the lodges of Forest Camp passing a steep downhill trail to Landrung
around 3 hours from here just before Forest Camp.</span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i><span style="background: white;">Pitam
Deorali to Dudh Kharka 2500 metres 28 21 43 N 83 50 51E 3 hrs to 3 hrs 15 min
Dudh Kharka to Forest Camp 2550 metres 28 23 0 N 83 50 36E 1 hour to 1 hour 10
min.</span><br />
</i><br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg4SIkwxXhUeH2UdCSjT29FL9YjTOCkhVasd0lpsOSYgqyH_3oZBwZNhe7BRjkIw_uo2I_GpI8RuidkymLdu3Y4MCkkZfr_J7qBa2d8Tlj5HXJEsCW7rDbOX9BeJ7Gb6-nPGThB0cgW2a3EYJSxuvFAB4T-dOCb_yAMsdmAwwihjUIv8M17wG8HAVMN6g=s2000" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="2000" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg4SIkwxXhUeH2UdCSjT29FL9YjTOCkhVasd0lpsOSYgqyH_3oZBwZNhe7BRjkIw_uo2I_GpI8RuidkymLdu3Y4MCkkZfr_J7qBa2d8Tlj5HXJEsCW7rDbOX9BeJ7Gb6-nPGThB0cgW2a3EYJSxuvFAB4T-dOCb_yAMsdmAwwihjUIv8M17wG8HAVMN6g=w640-h100" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #2b00fe;"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"><b>December 8 2021 Forest Camp to High Camp 3530 metres</b></span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">This is a long day and needs to be paced properly ideally with a lunch break at Badaldanda.</span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">The morning was sunny and clear and we left at 8 am - the trail climbed steeply through the forest in about 30-40 minutes and reached a new lodge at Rest Camp with a dress circle view of Machhapuchare. This is an option to stay rather than at Forest Camp. </span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgznoWjLSU19K4cZWCz3EMsOA-s48zbByDOJ-yNSs5STtwIGj6hEFKJR0XNpMD12KgkcwOJHiVV5M1phDt_JVgc-X9xmE30ogui9ZMVHNmi2lhAhIMqtMRdxOXlXa1k4ebaMKa3QrPOwspblA87BIo-dtjWXVNANYQDUvHBirlReVe306-dhLqWZ57Hag=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgznoWjLSU19K4cZWCz3EMsOA-s48zbByDOJ-yNSs5STtwIGj6hEFKJR0XNpMD12KgkcwOJHiVV5M1phDt_JVgc-X9xmE30ogui9ZMVHNmi2lhAhIMqtMRdxOXlXa1k4ebaMKa3QrPOwspblA87BIo-dtjWXVNANYQDUvHBirlReVe306-dhLqWZ57Hag=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></span></div><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.6667px;"> From Rest camp the trail again climbed stiffly through the forest partly on steps for 35-40 minutes to a tea shop at 2780 metres marked Hotel Mountain Gallery which was closed. The trail again continues to climb steeply through the forest and in about half hour reaches a blue resting shelter - soon after this the climb eases up and in half hour reaches Low Camp 2970m where we took a tea break in the sunshine. </span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"> The trail then climbs very steeply on the steps which is a newly made trail and gains about 100 metres in 15 minutes - the trail eases up and in about an hour enters the first lodge of Badal Danda with a mind blowing view of the peaks - in another 10 minutes we reached the Munal lodge at Badal Danda where we stopped for lunch. </span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiel00PH-wPK2CJzqZWq2I-pyWURPFZ_-j9SA0Z7nVD1NoUCs0CtJRVrjfrZv9ilNbAB5DAAzbwhsVa_GCg8-9Xx7cmyWXbvSWFyL-9KeSXLLLmlvX6EuUaSgoWHPpDVfYU8RzmsbPSeCVqqC5I5vgiVwK9GMtYhhnyc4bmSG2cbtdlGkdT-_evKSnNVg=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1302" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiel00PH-wPK2CJzqZWq2I-pyWURPFZ_-j9SA0Z7nVD1NoUCs0CtJRVrjfrZv9ilNbAB5DAAzbwhsVa_GCg8-9Xx7cmyWXbvSWFyL-9KeSXLLLmlvX6EuUaSgoWHPpDVfYU8RzmsbPSeCVqqC5I5vgiVwK9GMtYhhnyc4bmSG2cbtdlGkdT-_evKSnNVg=w556-h640" width="556" /></a></span></div><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br /><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;">From Badal Danda a new trail on stone steps is in the process of being made and we followed it for most of the way - the trail goes up and down on the ridge with views on both sides. Annapurna south and Hiunchuli are tantalizing close and Machhapuchare dominating the skyline. On a good sunny day this is an incredible walk. As we reached High Camp the clouds dropped into the valley and we were treated to a glorious sunset with the clouds below us. </span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, sans-serif"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHNImq0qcTRbvjnf0KR24ZYRunH1NWjY0ofXMSji1MfxiMZhm-EbVr-6FzL8fdrjI5p0OYQLr7_SMllwQ9IXz_ttQHGikQm5fyRa9oHU43_d66nYv1akp0lmoq2G3Fs7xjZm5y8WTI8pHxt6w4plOHC2f07rkBfZZBwL4cxd7fzLkBojwRhg0aX1cgKQ=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhHNImq0qcTRbvjnf0KR24ZYRunH1NWjY0ofXMSji1MfxiMZhm-EbVr-6FzL8fdrjI5p0OYQLr7_SMllwQ9IXz_ttQHGikQm5fyRa9oHU43_d66nYv1akp0lmoq2G3Fs7xjZm5y8WTI8pHxt6w4plOHC2f07rkBfZZBwL4cxd7fzLkBojwRhg0aX1cgKQ=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></span></div><span face="Arial, sans-serif"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhEfPsoHraXmS162LVdk3oUkxU6pt-zFF_Wh1dQRqgOpWGUS3-da94zKY4GVIfIMgWzTB5kXlCd8j3jMAn3Mev1fuEfbdRCqq6dVDkaQ_kHv8IRWPNn_2qLOdppPlyy4LmVmZdIs7_qc3UrT1oUePCxqtGk2RSOAjsuU9GnlbHR7IriqjDnKyoT_Xuzow=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1044" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhEfPsoHraXmS162LVdk3oUkxU6pt-zFF_Wh1dQRqgOpWGUS3-da94zKY4GVIfIMgWzTB5kXlCd8j3jMAn3Mev1fuEfbdRCqq6dVDkaQ_kHv8IRWPNn_2qLOdppPlyy4LmVmZdIs7_qc3UrT1oUePCxqtGk2RSOAjsuU9GnlbHR7IriqjDnKyoT_Xuzow=w446-h640" width="446" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjaNUiLmVYnEA2BTXbyocNK18jlIFkPuXZMhc3p--JY5NGeoEWfCqBl486te0_zxJQRO1Vc-P7a8Dyj8WowPFWFlmHU6bgQQK0WQTIF7MuR9elVe4dFZSh2YqNJB9x59UZdhSfSJ7qivSD7eg5y_p070RXgpacgvtPl_onIDZVWJSZC67U8O2X5ylGPiw=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="1500" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjaNUiLmVYnEA2BTXbyocNK18jlIFkPuXZMhc3p--JY5NGeoEWfCqBl486te0_zxJQRO1Vc-P7a8Dyj8WowPFWFlmHU6bgQQK0WQTIF7MuR9elVe4dFZSh2YqNJB9x59UZdhSfSJ7qivSD7eg5y_p070RXgpacgvtPl_onIDZVWJSZC67U8O2X5ylGPiw=w640-h336" width="640" /></a></div></span><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.6667px;"><p><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.6667px;"><br /></i></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiJvyeDrBWB6XopZDLbFocLdKAgZB1cJbhAjdrR_ZmGJ-pBnSUBLO-a6s8BPBWsmh-81Yrf110ijWmWI41KWCYUfxPoWJX7RndJC7c_VfH4lLbrdNij7hVhZEw1pBdua60NsK2n2ZphWbhOyqOIC_QLT-yqiWTdfaAV0QdEH4MeNb4g6XRxtm8ASoRJAw=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiJvyeDrBWB6XopZDLbFocLdKAgZB1cJbhAjdrR_ZmGJ-pBnSUBLO-a6s8BPBWsmh-81Yrf110ijWmWI41KWCYUfxPoWJX7RndJC7c_VfH4lLbrdNij7hVhZEw1pBdua60NsK2n2ZphWbhOyqOIC_QLT-yqiWTdfaAV0QdEH4MeNb4g6XRxtm8ASoRJAw=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><br /><i style="font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14.6667px;"><br /></i><p></p>Forest Camp to Rest Camp 2600m 28 23 16N 83 51 1E 30-40 min Rest Camp to Low Camp 2980m 28 24 10N 83 51 24E 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs Low Camp to Badaldanda 3270m 28 23 53N 83 51 18E 1 hr 15 min to 1 hr 30min Badaldanda to High Camp 3530m 28 19 37N 83 46 29E 1 hr 30 min to 1 hr 45 min</i><p></p><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">December 9 2021 High Camp to Mardi Himal View
Point 4000 m</span></b></span></div><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi71zcOk6ZfdQwVpdpHn2ck53HLWUkBvy-PcfBQZFlRz2PmSrBq-XsjPnNAyct1bZN-jT6_amOCZVKyrZl6edL4_WSIJZFnIOsreRqoXtkdvHqclxMR5t2olZ4L93wal1wWKy1DHbBc_ofCBdKJfRuxcIPJtPjqIX3j7Ie3aNHLv4mXzJZcTq3QyGXZ-Q=s2000" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="494" data-original-width="2000" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEi71zcOk6ZfdQwVpdpHn2ck53HLWUkBvy-PcfBQZFlRz2PmSrBq-XsjPnNAyct1bZN-jT6_amOCZVKyrZl6edL4_WSIJZFnIOsreRqoXtkdvHqclxMR5t2olZ4L93wal1wWKy1DHbBc_ofCBdKJfRuxcIPJtPjqIX3j7Ie3aNHLv4mXzJZcTq3QyGXZ-Q=w640-h158" width="640" /></a></div><br /></span><span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background: white; color: #222222;">We left our lodge at 7 30 am on another clear
morning with a dress circle view of the peaks. The trail went through all the
lodges and then started to climb on newly built stone steps which carry on
until the view point. The climb was relentless on the steps and the last 40
minutes climbed gained 200 metres to reach the tea shops of the view point -
from here the trail carries on for another 15 minutes to reach the actual
viewpoint overlooking the valley. Interestingly on the climb to the view point
we could see in the distance behind the lodges of Tadapani which in on the Poon
Hill trek - below us in the valley of the Modi Khola could be seen the lodges
of Chomrong and Sinuwa on the Annapurna Base Camp trek still in shadow. The
view was staggering with Annapurna south and Hiunchuli across the valley, </span></span><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;">Gangapurna
and Annapurna 3 and finally Macchapuchare to complete this jaw dropping panorama.
The view is much closer than Poon Hill which is behind. The trail continues on
after the View Point to the base camp of Mardi Himal peak which would take
another 90 minutes to 2 hours.</span></div><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></div><div><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><i>High Camp to Mardi Himal Base Camp 4000
metres 28 27 4N 83 52 42E 2.5 hrs to 3 hrs up and return journey 1 hour to 1.5
hours.</i></span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;">After a late lunch at High Camp we headed back
all the way down the valley to first to Badaldanda and then onto Low Camp where
we spent the night. The timings for the way down were-</span><br />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><i>High Camp to Badaldanda 1 hr to 1 hr 15
min; Badaldanda to Low Camp 40 min to 50 min.</i></span><br />
<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--></span></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">December 10 2021 Low Camp to Siding 1880 metres</span></b><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: #ffa400;">This is a very steep descent of around 1100
metres in just 3 hours to Siding and can be extremely difficult on the knees.
Trekkers with bad knees are advised to go down very slowly.</span></span></i></span></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="color: #ffa400;"></span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></i></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgEAAFjVYnqGQEMYiduJK-PgdT7Iu0rNriblqkLbQsQqjYkaSBaA6VMx2-K_FY7zXu6KfK6kb0zxxw0u9TN1jtkdEW5h20GSCQPnAbyvQCh3BuvE57zqrRhstMalZkpCkP6F63mflpIz4Y8WJuM3BNBM2mBnzEaYU-uOfb6cOlwgj8wZJWeL0tcpLDbyA=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1059" data-original-width="1500" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgEAAFjVYnqGQEMYiduJK-PgdT7Iu0rNriblqkLbQsQqjYkaSBaA6VMx2-K_FY7zXu6KfK6kb0zxxw0u9TN1jtkdEW5h20GSCQPnAbyvQCh3BuvE57zqrRhstMalZkpCkP6F63mflpIz4Y8WJuM3BNBM2mBnzEaYU-uOfb6cOlwgj8wZJWeL0tcpLDbyA=w640-h452" width="640" /></a></i></div><i><br /><span style="color: #ffa400;"><br /></span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">We made a late start from Low Camp as we had planned to stay the night
at Siding and go to Pokhara the next morning. The trail down to Siding was
marked and within 30 minutes we came to a clearing around 2760 metres where
some new lodges were being built. We continued down on a very steep descent for
another 20 minutes which brought us to another clearing where we took a rest
break at 2625 metres. From here the trail plunged steeply down to Ranju at 2280
metres in around 45 minutes. </span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtUuywwnyK7JFfE11A0Wfh-z1KGAyijEGCZ9v5Uk7_6JH1q4Oby90NDNTSYee_DB8C56iGZkQc6xejbWCf0hwxBdUL1xiXU6dpSvXGGax5UtMX2OGe49cySbSWFSVEbX5cfIALqmZrVkOzgHOlZvMeGQBoEjFwiDAO_rdipc4J_p7A4cLI30vIYlOUQg=s1500" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhtUuywwnyK7JFfE11A0Wfh-z1KGAyijEGCZ9v5Uk7_6JH1q4Oby90NDNTSYee_DB8C56iGZkQc6xejbWCf0hwxBdUL1xiXU6dpSvXGGax5UtMX2OGe49cySbSWFSVEbX5cfIALqmZrVkOzgHOlZvMeGQBoEjFwiDAO_rdipc4J_p7A4cLI30vIYlOUQg=w640-h480" width="640" /></a></div><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-size: 11pt;"><br /></span></span></p> Ranju has two lodges and is a welcome tea break.
From here the steep descent continues and soon the lodges of Siding can be seen
below. The best one at the moment is Trekkers Home with a garden where we
stayed the night. It is also possible to book a jeep and go the same day to
Pokhara which may be a better option rather than staying in Siding.</span><p></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">
<i><span style="background: white;">Low Camp
to Ranju 2280m 28 23 18N 83 51 50E 1 hr 30 min to 1 hr 45 min; Ranju to
Siding 1880m 28 22 45N 83 52 11E 45 min to 1 hr – slow walkers on downhills may
take longer 30 to 45 min.</span></i></span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="background: white; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">December 11 Siding to Pokhara by jeep</span></b></span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><br />
<span style="background: white;">We left by 7 40 am as we wanted to react Pokhara
early. The initial road to Lumre was a dirt track with a lot of stones and
boulders which slowed down the progress - after Lumre the road joins the
highway at Hyanja and soon Pokhara is reached on a good black top road.</span><br />
<i><span style="background: white;">Siding to
Lumre 45 minutes Lumre to Pokhara 50 minutes to 1 hour.</span></i></span></span></span></p><p><span face="Arial, "sans-serif"" lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #222222; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;"><i>For more information on our treks and photo workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></i></span></span></span></p><p><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><i><span face="Arial, sans-serif" style="color: #222222;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">For more photographs on the Mardi Himal region do visit </span><span style="font-size: 14.6667px;"><a href="https://www.sujoydas.com/Nepal-Himalaya/Mardi-Himal-December-2021/">https://www.sujoydas.com/Nepal-Himalaya/Mardi-Himal-December-2021/</a> </span></span></i></span><i style="color: #222222; font-family: Arial, "sans-serif"; font-size: 11pt;"><br />
<!--[endif]--></i></span></span></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com2Annapurna, Narchyang, Nepal28.596111 83.8202780.285877163821155 48.664028 56.906344836178846 118.976528tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-86857198005817849202021-11-16T15:00:00.001+05:302022-03-03T14:18:39.191+05:30Ama Dablam Base Camp | Update October 2021<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLyCkmHO8x6ANvGQPKOz6XhIoJyxplTEoATLa2d93KDKMVaLvCtd-lVw6am2WNXNLftUdl-S-p-AWbRpGwJpFI7aUH7XyptSEaFQBUKbxxicKce9oIbb3UVMRwMWX-8WEegspfy7N6v_P/w640-h480/IMG_2029.jpg" width="640" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The lodges of Ama Dablam base camp<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><b> October 27th 2021</b></p><p>The information available on Ama Dablam Base Camp on the internet has mostly been sketchy and so I decided to go up with my group to see the base camp and check the route and the new lodges built there. </p><p>We left Pangboche around 7- 15 am walked to the end of the village and passed the last Sonam Lodge. A little ahead of the Sonam Lodge there is a path going down to the river - take this path and in 5-10 minutes you are down to a bridge across the Imja Khola - cross the bridge and then start climbing steadily uphill for 30-45 minutes to reach the ridge line - there are some multiple trails but the general direction is uphill. </p><p>Reach the ridge and swing left on a flattish trail for about 15-20 minutes. This trail then drops into a broad meadow where we found yaks grazing and a view to the west including Pumori on the Khumbu Glacier. From this point Pheriche could also be seen below. </p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfW7K_-xq1mysFga4i-OyQieDvgkVU0uTyIHTfG0dXGUtfoDTWkfW0mPKqNwCIBahncjZ1CKaoWHzgWLL-O17t58mpfXDZJPQajuIjZADU7cL0f5Rlt5aR6lltTttd96GpVprY3wzxp_mo/s1500/IMG_2024.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfW7K_-xq1mysFga4i-OyQieDvgkVU0uTyIHTfG0dXGUtfoDTWkfW0mPKqNwCIBahncjZ1CKaoWHzgWLL-O17t58mpfXDZJPQajuIjZADU7cL0f5Rlt5aR6lltTttd96GpVprY3wzxp_mo/w480-h640/IMG_2024.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>The trail then begins another long climb turning to the right for about an hour mostly with rocks and boulders - it crests another ridge line where you find a sign on a rock saying “lodge 5 min”. It is actually 20-30 minutes from here to the lodges! </p><p>Follow the trail which again swings right and there are large white arrows on the rocks indicating the route. Finally turn the last bend and on a meadow there are two lodges and the tents of the Base Camp. The altitude reads 4500 metres - a climb of approximately 550 metres from Pangboche which could take anything between 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on your climbing speed. </p><p>There are two new lodges at the Base Camp - The older Ama Dablam Base Camp lodge and the new Himalaya Lodge. Both the lodges would be open in the spring and autumn season and would possibly close in winter mid December to early March and again in the monsoon months June to mid September. If you trek to the base camp it makes sense to stay the night to get a chance to see the spectacular sunset views on Ama Dablam as well as Taboche across the valley. You can always check in Pangboche if the lodges are open as the lodge owners are from Pangboche. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrlTZUY3-efDGDcP0-qsY58K6CJ5GvSWtPcVOUpKlbXlnsk4ZUlAJL2s_2KTPIYevIpfoO1gmdmky7yO9tVZidUcY-EskdRwqpYyRMbseXKDjmCePzt0NWwZoKLwjFpslSYzjGGXWiIVb/s1500/IMG_E2674.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="1500" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGrlTZUY3-efDGDcP0-qsY58K6CJ5GvSWtPcVOUpKlbXlnsk4ZUlAJL2s_2KTPIYevIpfoO1gmdmky7yO9tVZidUcY-EskdRwqpYyRMbseXKDjmCePzt0NWwZoKLwjFpslSYzjGGXWiIVb/w640-h472/IMG_E2674.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Walking 15-20 minutes uphill from the lodges you come to another flattish meadow where there are more tents - the main base camp from where the climbers attempt the peak. While we were there Seven Summit Treks had a group on the mountain and we could see the climbers through the telescope moving very slowly on the final summit ridge. </p><p>Ama Dablam Base Camp is a good add on to an Everest trek and it also helps acclimatization. If you spend one night here you can skip the extra night at Pheriche or Dingboche. The way down would be 2-3 hours depending on your downhill skills and can be hard on the knees.</p><p><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp 27 51 10N 86 49 10E 4500 metres 2.5 to 3.5 hours up and 2 to 3 hours down. </b></span></i></p><p><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"></span></i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEh5XKQlNevpXzEFuGCIT37XDiW3HEOIiPtTQru75jMZDuvmdkioG4HqUPGPciARzIcYUwsVE4rwDFadfeLPdt7eXADvs9CuGuODGX1HUVBLmgp9nrIO4ehthf6iVYBC-FBKQsEJsE2BgC/s1500/IMG_2023.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEh5XKQlNevpXzEFuGCIT37XDiW3HEOIiPtTQru75jMZDuvmdkioG4HqUPGPciARzIcYUwsVE4rwDFadfeLPdt7eXADvs9CuGuODGX1HUVBLmgp9nrIO4ehthf6iVYBC-FBKQsEJsE2BgC/w640-h480/IMG_2023.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view on the descent - Kwangde, the Imja Khola, lower and upper Pangboche, Tengboche monaster, part of Phortse village, Mongla and the Everest view hotel on the ridge below Kwangde</td></tr></tbody></table><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><br /><b>For more information on our treks and photo workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com">www.southcol.com</a></b></span></i><p></p><p><i><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>For photographs of the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a></b></span></i></p><p><br /></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com1Ama Dablam27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-28271713905475785792021-09-14T11:04:00.001+05:302022-03-03T14:19:06.781+05:30Kashmir Great Lakes Trek | August 2021 Updated Route and Timigs<p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDcx1aZdgZZE9SZ21IKqhucro6cdqoCfKlqjoNTWzvJEObySxEFhNq3mL3nipLaqfJzgt-GD2aOKpXzMp2pAZ7iaPIJSviQCc8wlb8wOdjz3sN73-5RjN5ujau3wB-XYosQdWIHfmqXPgz/s914/south+col+banner.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="741" data-original-width="914" height="518" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDcx1aZdgZZE9SZ21IKqhucro6cdqoCfKlqjoNTWzvJEObySxEFhNq3mL3nipLaqfJzgt-GD2aOKpXzMp2pAZ7iaPIJSviQCc8wlb8wOdjz3sN73-5RjN5ujau3wB-XYosQdWIHfmqXPgz/w640-h518/south+col+banner.jpg" width="640" /></a></p><br /><p></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The Great Lakes is one of the signature treks in Kashmir and has become extremely popular especially in the busy summer season of July and August. There have been reports that in late July this year there were more than four hundred trekkers on the trail at one time! However, our <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">South Col Expeditions</a> team went in second half of August 2021 and we did not encounter many groups - the rush had eased by then. This is very rewarding trek and more so if done in the shoulder seasons - last week of June and last week of August into mid September. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The trek is usually done in six days - some of the days are long and tedious - but we did the route in seven days breaking up the first day into two days for better acclimatisation as we were flying straight into Srinagar and then driving immediately to Sonamarg. This approach gave a gentle start to the walk and was appreciated by all our trekkers. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The timings for the walk was recorded on Strava by one of our trekkers Dr Rajesh Tope and these screenshots are included here for reference. It should be noted that the timings recorded by Strava are the actual walking timings so stops for rest, lunch, photographs etc. should be added.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;"> <span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Day
1 Srinagar to Sonamarg Altitude: 2670m <span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Time taken: 3 hours drive - </span></b></span></span></p><p><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We fly
into Srinagar by noon and then after quick lunch we drive from Srinagar airport
to the base camp at Sonamarg which is called Shitkadi.Night at Shitkadi campsite.</span></span></p><p><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span><p></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Day
2 Sonamarg (Shitkadi) to Shekdur (Tabletop) Altitude</b>: 3250m Steep Ascent 5.8 km short day </span><span style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: 10pt;">·<span style="font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--></span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Time taken: 3 hours - within the
first 15-20 min into the trek we come to the meadows. A steady uphill climb of
approx. 1½ hrs brings us at the level of the Army Camp. We further
climb to the ridge and crossover and pass through meadows and Maple &
Silver Birch forests to reach our beautiful campsite for the day. Dinner and
overnight stay at camp in Shekhdur also known as Tabletop. </span><span face="Calibri, sans-serif"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8lIbuy9U09bP4xFbRJy306CMiY0I5xo355ihQvBy80Io7r0QhO25qcjMGBLUAPFpX7hZ2dSD8C1h043V3gseaamETgY-d3aTCicg3XY35PktojcFK1b2aL7qywqaNxjziz1WXi_PJON2/s931/KGL+day+1.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="931" data-original-width="714" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8lIbuy9U09bP4xFbRJy306CMiY0I5xo355ihQvBy80Io7r0QhO25qcjMGBLUAPFpX7hZ2dSD8C1h043V3gseaamETgY-d3aTCicg3XY35PktojcFK1b2aL7qywqaNxjziz1WXi_PJON2/w490-h640/KGL+day+1.JPG" width="490" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Day
3 Shekdur (Tabletop) to Nichnai Altitude: 3,680 m short day </b></span><b><o:p></o:p></b></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
</p><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;">·<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>Time taken 3-4 hours, 5.7 km moderate.
A steady uphill 15 min. climb from our campsite followed by ½ hr of more
or less flat walk through Silver Birch forest and another 20 – 30 min.
Walk gently down to the stream in Nichnai Valley. The route from here onwards
initially is through a rocky terrain, later on interspersed with meadows. From
the stream it takes about 2½ hrs steady climb to reach Nichnai Base camp. We camp in the flowery meadows of Nichnai.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVypQC7c2LeGHah_B1VuNiXOdVOSo51qUu0zJoVEWrz0Ozr8bDbdt7L8WxSq7JY54mo-DEASjSKtkD0X3OPk4mH9h7ERWXkJCh_iZwsxs5JurzFR3UitCJeB9OM1vWmU06TDUC6FtD4LKY/s935/KGL+Day+2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="935" data-original-width="738" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVypQC7c2LeGHah_B1VuNiXOdVOSo51qUu0zJoVEWrz0Ozr8bDbdt7L8WxSq7JY54mo-DEASjSKtkD0X3OPk4mH9h7ERWXkJCh_iZwsxs5JurzFR3UitCJeB9OM1vWmU06TDUC6FtD4LKY/w506-h640/KGL+Day+2.JPG" width="506" /></a></div><br /><div><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Day
4 19<sup>th</sup> Aug Nichnai to Kishansar/Vishansar Valley
Altitude: 3,650 m </span><o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black;">Time: 6 hours, 10.28 kms<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moderate. 1.5 hours of gradual ascent
followed by an hour-long climb to the pass. A steep descent from the pass for
about an hour easing off into a flat walk.<o:p></o:p></span></span></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We ascend into the Kishansar/Vishansar
Valley—a beautiful valley with two lakes resting soothingly before two lofty
mountain peaks. The lakes abound with colourful trout fish. Both of these lakes
have a religious significance and they drain into Kishanganga River that
meanders through Gurez valley.</span><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfedAdb8UNEy_-SbaXG6-0G1jUSnFEfRq14OfSgjYMbRSDxdhZsfX9DTBfv4jEn2azW7d4XrdjHyePbq1W0yLqagu1v02p5F6UK8eDUx4QUav7ZUYOdfUWm7ldZQ-sagT58qutOHtjFTr2/s986/KGL+day+3.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="722" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfedAdb8UNEy_-SbaXG6-0G1jUSnFEfRq14OfSgjYMbRSDxdhZsfX9DTBfv4jEn2azW7d4XrdjHyePbq1W0yLqagu1v02p5F6UK8eDUx4QUav7ZUYOdfUWm7ldZQ-sagT58qutOHtjFTr2/w468-h640/KGL+day+3.JPG" width="468" /></a></div><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b style="color: #2b00fe;">Day
5 Kishansar/Vishansar
Valley to Gadsar Altitude: 3650m </b></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Time
taken: 7-8 hours, 15 kms Moderate. 1.5-2 hours of steep ascent followed by
1 hour of steep descent, easing off into a level walk<span style="color: #2b00fe;">.</span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.75in; text-align: justify; text-indent: -0.25in;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">We enter into the Gadsar Valley over
Gadsar pass. The pass gives a view of both Kishansar/Vishansar valley on one
side and the Gadsar valley on the other. Enchant yourself with long wavy
meadows dotted with multi-coloured flowers. The Gadsar Valley is famous for its
lake and sinking watersand. We pitch the tents beside a shimmering canal that
comes out of the Gadsar Lake. Legends say the water and fish from the Gadsar
Lake have healing powers.</span><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGbJlVUDFxUxT8FLCZxlplmB3jM6QawFkNnd-hcMNRl_2dpqDC9cQcN-oQfVPbECH6hdPcAcn2YIv6AlI40fUlrSbwibNLobSDslaW_z1DdEYHJVJhpSdUIkncXMwAJbIwrZ-VUp6V7Fp/s1154/KGL+day+4.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" data-original-height="1154" data-original-width="716" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLGbJlVUDFxUxT8FLCZxlplmB3jM6QawFkNnd-hcMNRl_2dpqDC9cQcN-oQfVPbECH6hdPcAcn2YIv6AlI40fUlrSbwibNLobSDslaW_z1DdEYHJVJhpSdUIkncXMwAJbIwrZ-VUp6V7Fp/w398-h640/KGL+day+4.JPG" width="398" /></a></div><br /><div><p style="margin: 0in 0in 6pt;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Day 6 Gadsar to Satsar Altitude: 3,600 m</span><o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">·<span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span>Time taken: 5-6 hours, 14 kms Moderate; 1.5 hours of steep ascent followed by a level walk.<o:p></o:p></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">On the sixth day of the trek, the trail becomes mild and relaxing with a repetition· of mild ascents and descents through large meadows that stretch along a succession of a fascinating mountain range. The Satsar valley holds seven alpine lakes; we camp for the night beside one of the canals that snake around this valley</span></span></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2XTYsI3A-QWXxg7xXgJi24jL3U3R87PXVbTQ7ny90VSQwUvS05J4BD7gvpLJolY7-kJv_OgU10P7D8iRm3weoIfExJph8qlQoZs1Ikom9Aq3uO74zzc0Vsa4eaSuosztN8s4SP9OCjVh6/s1008/KGL+day+5.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1008" data-original-width="732" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2XTYsI3A-QWXxg7xXgJi24jL3U3R87PXVbTQ7ny90VSQwUvS05J4BD7gvpLJolY7-kJv_OgU10P7D8iRm3weoIfExJph8qlQoZs1Ikom9Aq3uO74zzc0Vsa4eaSuosztN8s4SP9OCjVh6/w464-h640/KGL+day+5.JPG" width="464" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><p style="margin: 0in 0in 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Day
7 Satsar to Nandkol Altitude: 3,587 m </span> </b><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;">Time taken: 6 hours, 9 kms
Difficult. </span></span></p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 6pt; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">30 minutes each of gradual ascent and descent followed by a steep
ascent for about 45 and then by a steep descent. Similarly ascending and
descending trail all the way through.</span></span></p>
<div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The seventh day takes us
over the Zajibal pass 4110 metres. The pass cuts the Satsar Valley and Gangbal valley.
We cover a mild gradient that leads us to the Nundkol Lake lying
judiciously at· the foot of Harmukh. The Harmukh, the lake and the reflection
of the Harmukh in the lake make it majestic.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2Ez_0YEQC5WbQTHKwx8zo7gMH4YEXeKJwGQ5eeNZ5ZO_otkNj6fzLS28Y_XD06qSbzFdtgv5b-8Qg5TFYHJJLDJiGMEAqoYHRdX6OLK7xFatKVqT5Fn0nzO-twjJE6VSadUZ99qDfK_X/s1014/KGL+day+6.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="732" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK2Ez_0YEQC5WbQTHKwx8zo7gMH4YEXeKJwGQ5eeNZ5ZO_otkNj6fzLS28Y_XD06qSbzFdtgv5b-8Qg5TFYHJJLDJiGMEAqoYHRdX6OLK7xFatKVqT5Fn0nzO-twjJE6VSadUZ99qDfK_X/w462-h640/KGL+day+6.JPG" width="462" /></a></div><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Day
8 Gangabal to Naranag Altitude: 2,271 m </span><o:p></o:p></span></b></p>
<p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span><!--[endif]-->Time taken: 6-7 hours, 14 kms
Moderate. A mix of ascents and descents for 6 km followed by a very steep
descent all the way down. We lose 1300 metres in the day. On the last day of
the trek, we descend into the Naranag valley. The same day we will drive
to Srinagar for the night stay.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style="margin-bottom: 6.0pt; margin-left: .5in; margin-right: 0in; margin-top: 0in; margin: 0in 0in 6pt 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; tab-stops: list .5in; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguA4CxaQdC0Mr8kQlABdaHzbTuaX_aof_AjkXq_xNtCmtYbJ_gjaEfAfnF0Cw_OFzEPwUVKYmxRx61O6tDne8SYzoomRxAnoXK0iV2TnKWfxiQvYHZAMuscpZUi-MXpQjxdJE9_eDwYVPT/s1085/KGL+day+7.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1085" data-original-width="730" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguA4CxaQdC0Mr8kQlABdaHzbTuaX_aof_AjkXq_xNtCmtYbJ_gjaEfAfnF0Cw_OFzEPwUVKYmxRx61O6tDne8SYzoomRxAnoXK0iV2TnKWfxiQvYHZAMuscpZUi-MXpQjxdJE9_eDwYVPT/w430-h640/KGL+day+7.JPG" width="430" /></a></div>We plan to do the Great Lakes trek again in August 2022. For more information on our treks and workshops do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">www.southcol.com</a> and for photographs from the Himalaya do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com" target="_blank">www.sujoydas.com</a><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div></span></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Sonamarg34.3031616 75.2931115.9929277638211573 40.136860999999996 62.613395436178848 110.449361tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-65658637102376538492021-08-04T18:38:00.002+05:302022-03-03T14:19:55.343+05:30Ladakh | Markha Valley Route and Timings Update July 2021<p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQDtfiFQ7tnw542HwLJYMOHH_0FKpDb1eo0fjiAeyGK2D4ZsjDYtF5Wjct_Nm5ac6bS0xPVvg8whpxXQoUDINdoXvxqY3a-Zq6aUnf8LMb9GNuuClHyz563xelvuHlNYT6zQtkaHS9tav/s1500/IMG_2061.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsQDtfiFQ7tnw542HwLJYMOHH_0FKpDb1eo0fjiAeyGK2D4ZsjDYtF5Wjct_Nm5ac6bS0xPVvg8whpxXQoUDINdoXvxqY3a-Zq6aUnf8LMb9GNuuClHyz563xelvuHlNYT6zQtkaHS9tav/w640-h480/IMG_2061.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><p class="MsoNormal"><i><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>Update- Though we did the trek from Skiu, the road now goes
as far as Sara and possibly if the river is low as far as Markha. We therefore
suggest that to drive from Leh to Sara on the first day (around 3 hours) and
then walk after lunch to Markha. This will reduce one day from the trek and it
will now become four to five days. Due to the pandemic the home stays were
closed but it is possible to do this trek as a full home stay trek without
tents and pony support once the covid situation eases up.</b></span></i></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWP5PyZ5zH-crhoRFilA6mkiGiyD8Z_SSl7FhKZnM-fvJ5A4AY_KblVJnaBc3U9lD9pPNEQU0qyNiN9OI5YuL9Df4bvTyozdHNIxNL0zbKlE_YSvjxMO2Ht752wY-7UzTShNI5VfgjyG4N/s1500/IMG_1851.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="1500" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWP5PyZ5zH-crhoRFilA6mkiGiyD8Z_SSl7FhKZnM-fvJ5A4AY_KblVJnaBc3U9lD9pPNEQU0qyNiN9OI5YuL9Df4bvTyozdHNIxNL0zbKlE_YSvjxMO2Ht752wY-7UzTShNI5VfgjyG4N/w640-h360/IMG_1851.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of the peaks from Leh</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="color: #222222;"><br /><br /></span><span><a name='more'></a></span>
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b>July 13 2021 drive Leh to Skiu and trek Skiu to
Sara</b></span></span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; color: #222222; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">We started from Leh at 8 am and reached Chilling
at 9 30 am. The road is now excellent and black top and there is now a
permanent bridge over the river so it is now possible to drive upto Skiu - we
reached Skiu around 10 15 am where our ponies met us and we started at 10 30
am. The dirt track road continues to Markha in the dry season so it is now
possible to drive to Markha and start the trek from there - we had planned to
walk the first day to Sara which is about 4 to 5 hours away. We followed the
dirk track which has been built on the old trail and in about 90 minutes to
reached Pendse where the tea shop run by the Skiu Women's Cooperative was
closed due to the pandemic and lack of tourists. We had lunch next to the tea
shop on the culvert and then started out for Sara at 12 30 pm . The road climbs
gently gaining altitude slowly and in about an hour you reach a diversion with
a road going down to the Markha river - the road going straight reaches a
bridge which has not yet been completed and so it is not possible to walk up
that way. The river crossing was about knee deep and took us around 30 minutes
to get the group across - change shoes into sandals dry your feet etc. The road
then continued for another 75-90 minutes and we reached the home stays of Sara
- we camped in the garden of a very nice Home stay</span><br />
<b><span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">S</span><span style="color: #3d85c6;">kiu to Pendse 90 minutes Pendse to River crossing
1 hour 15 min; River Crossing to Sara 1 hour to 1 hour 15 min</span></span></span><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Skiu 3361 metres 33 58 46 N 77 16 25 E N Pendse
3446 metres 33 57 27 N 77 18 1 E Sara 3558 metres 33 55 20 N 77 21 15E</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Skin to Sara 14 km</span> One river crossing <span><!--more--></span></span></span></b><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">July 14 2021 Sara to Markha to Umlung</span></b></span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">We left Sara at 7 30 am and within half an
hour reached a bridge - a new bridge for vehicles was being constructed there -
the trail then climbed up to Chalak village and ahead three chortens could be
seen ahead on the ridge. We reached those chortens in about 75 to 90 minutes
since leaving Sara. One hour from here going up the valley we reached a small
pass and just below that were three coloured chortens. The village of Markha
lay ahead about an hour or so. In about 30 minutes from these chortens we
reached a river crossing - after the crossing it's a hot walk to Markha which
takes another 45 minutes. We stopped in Markha for lunch and then after a break
proceeded to Umlung. Markha village was full of mustard fields yet to turn
yellow- about 45 min to an hour from Markha we reached another river - just in
front of us was a fascinating rock formation - a gorge to the right leads to
the wild Jumlam trek into Zanskar - we proceeded straight and then climbed up
to a small pass ahead high up on an impossible ridge was the Tacha monastery
reached on a very steep zig zag upward trail. From the pass it took us another
30 minutes to the campground of Umlung.</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Sara to three chortens 75 to 90 minutes
three chortens to small pass before Markha 1 hour Small pass to river crossing
30 min River crossing to Markha monastery 45 min </span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Markha to next river crossing 1 hour River
crossing to Umlung 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min.</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Markha 3750 metres 33 53 14 N 77 25 18E
Umlung 3846 metres 33 52 7 N 77 25 50 E</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Sara to Markha 11 km Markha to Umlung 5.5 km</span>
Two river crossings</span></b></span><br /><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">July 15 2021 Umlung to Hanker to Taughutse</span></b></span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">We left Umlung around 7 50 am and went down from
the camp site following the river valley - it was a partially cloudy morning -
the days have been very warm in the Markha with day temperatures touching 27 to
30 Celsius. The trail at the end of the valley climbed gently for about
15 minutes and then reached a small pass with mane stones and prayer flags
about 75 minutes from Umlung. From here looking down the valley the houses of
Hanker could be seen amidst the green trees and this was a pleasant flattish
walk - we got to Hanker in about an hour and decided to stop there at a home
stay for tea. It was a very pleasant spot and we spent an hour resting and
lazing in the sun. We finally left Hanker a little after 11 am skirted the
village and almost immediately made a stiff 15 minute climb to reach some
houses on a plateau surrounded by chortens and mane walls. Looking from here
down the valley we could see beautiful yellow mustard fields in checkerboard
patterns and behind them the snow clad peak of Kangyatse who would be our
companion for the next few days. We walked along these fields and going
down to the river came to a bridge with an arrow which said way to Nimaling.
This would be about an hour from Hanker. We decided to make a lunch stop here
next to the river and stopped for around 30 minutes. The trail then followed
the river on the left bank including some tricky sections which had to be
gingerly navigated by climbing over rocks to avoid the water. The trail then
left the valley and climbed up steeply for around 10 minutes before levelling
up again above the river. Soon a sign appeared Taughutse 20 minutes it was
around 45 minutes away. Finally we crossed a bridge over the river and within
10 minutes of the bridge reached the camping grounds lush green as no treks
were possible since October 2019 which was the end of the trekking season
in Ladakh.</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Umlung to small pass above Hanker 1 hr 15 min
Small pass to Hanker 1 hr Hanker to bridge 1 hour bridge to Taughutse 1.5 hours</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Hanker 3945 metres 33 50 13 N 77 30 6E Taughutse
4245 metres 33 48 42 N 77 32</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Umlung to Hanker 6.2 km Hanker to Taughutse 5.2 km</span>
One river crossing</span></b></span><br />
<br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">July 16 2021 Taughutse to Lake Camp below Kangyatse</span></b></span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">It was another brilliant morning at Taughutse and
we left around 8 am for the lake camp. This is not a regular camp spot but we
stop here for the brilliant view of Kangyatse and the high route walk to
Nimaling the next day. A few minutes after the camp we came across a section
where streams were flowing right across the rocks in multiple places and we had
to gingerly navigate this section. The trail then came upto a broad meadow - in
front there were some broken shepherds camps - do not go up here but take the
trail on the right side which skirts these camps and goes up the valley. Very
soon the trail starts to climb steeply again through a rocky section and
finally makes a sharp zig zag turn to react a pass around 4600 metres in about
2 hours walking from Taughutse. This is a good place to stop for a mid morning
rest. From here the trail again climbed gently following a fast slowing stream
passing a number of mani walls with exquisite inscriptions. The rock formations
in the valley north of these walls were also tremendous. In about 45 min to one
hour from the pas we reached a small lake on the trail - we climbed up and
behind that was a another bigger lake with Kangyatse behind and a new statue of
Guru Padmasambhava in the water in the middle of the lake which in my view
tarnished the natural beauty of this magical location.</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Taughutse to small pass 2 hours Small pass to Lake
camp 45 min to 1 hour</span> Lake Camp 4660 meters 33 48 22 N 77 33 33 E </span></b></span></span><b style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">Taughutse to Lake camp 7 km</span></b><p></p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZzXDz5VmwR2dwLL-2SovMoOAs1IWN98p5gZ_HMSdeXKWvNm-2sRsJVhsGOdWo5dSsG8IRcgGbVQLqt5p15iOY-ziGbAy-tp1XOAyrOHaQpLN9bVHQ4gOJQdQJszw1SZGT0llFW77ikHw/s1500/IMG_1971.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIZzXDz5VmwR2dwLL-2SovMoOAs1IWN98p5gZ_HMSdeXKWvNm-2sRsJVhsGOdWo5dSsG8IRcgGbVQLqt5p15iOY-ziGbAy-tp1XOAyrOHaQpLN9bVHQ4gOJQdQJszw1SZGT0llFW77ikHw/w640-h480/IMG_1971.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p class="MsoNormal"><br />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">July 17th 2021 Lake camp to Nimaling</span></b></span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white; color: #222222;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">The Lake Camp where South Col Expeditions make a
night stop on the Markha trek is not a regular stop for other groups. The
reason is that it is hardly two hours from Nimaling, the base for crossing the
Kongmaru La 5150 metres. However the location of the lake just below the peak
of Kang Yatse makes this a superb campsite possibly the best on the entire
trek. On this visit rather than do the conventional two hour walk along the
valley to Nimaling I decided to climb another 300 metres or so to the grazing
pastures below Kangyatse and then descend to Nimaling by passing the valley
route. We started late around 8 45 am and followed the trail from the lake due
south towards Kangyatse. The trail then veered to the east and some cairns
could be seen on top of a hill. We climbed to the top in around an hour. The
meadows were simply splendid yaks grazed on the lush green vegetation,
the ladakh pika or mouse hate scurried in and out of its burrow searching for
food, overhead two lammergeiers soared with the thermals while a multitude of
finches, redstarts and thrushes skimmed through the lush vegetation. On would
imagine Ladakh to be arid and dry but not these meadows in summer above
Nimaling. We came to a stream which ran below Kangyatse and followed it
gently upstream. Our altitude showed 4960 metres, almost 300 metres higher than
Lake Camp. Across the valley we could see quite clearly the trail to the
Kongmaru La. It was a sparkling July day with the temperatures around a
comfortable 24 Celsius. A light wind blowing across the meadows helped to cool
things down. We then walked in a north easterly direction towards Nimaling and
started to descend from the pastures. In about half an hour we could see the
tea tents of Nimaling below us and in another half hour we reached our camp
site. For those of you who have some time and are on a camping trek, the Lake
camp and the high route to Nimaling is greatly recommended.</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<b><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Lake Camp to Nimaling via the high route 3 to 4
hours. However, there are no well trodden trails you need to follow the yak
trails and preferably have a guide with you who knows the way.</span></span><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">The distance we walked was around 7 km and we
reached upto 4960 metres.</span></span></span></b><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" /><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
<span style="background: white;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; float: none; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"><b><span style="color: #3d85c6;">July 18th 2021 Nimaling to Kongmaru La to Chukirmo
to Chogdo - drive to Leh</span></b></span> <span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadAPUj7FJ_ahPLXBZEvMXyRUf_BDH4Ialjf8Lx-zMuB3Kx6k8KSwEPD_2E4-f2p_nTET_-PIX-82FVjbYqyLA0rPfHmV_u10qGDo3ZAOkUWOOpjNlCeEHXdp8EtJOTZyvHBSeQCrJoTmv/s1500/IMG_2042.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadAPUj7FJ_ahPLXBZEvMXyRUf_BDH4Ialjf8Lx-zMuB3Kx6k8KSwEPD_2E4-f2p_nTET_-PIX-82FVjbYqyLA0rPfHmV_u10qGDo3ZAOkUWOOpjNlCeEHXdp8EtJOTZyvHBSeQCrJoTmv/w640-h480/IMG_2042.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br />
<p class="MsoNormal"></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH41QwUUG9gNBUxcwVhVL5DkDvBqdDXM_kWBRGn4KIpgJ5uyVu94ucnYZLZgduICmp9dPehhLXNQ4kkhPnNzYCbwLOaWHTrp7b9DcCBIMoLxKER3_S9kIX0-FOOTIdR9QUT27sIlNgYub1/s1500/IMG_2099.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="844" data-original-width="1500" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH41QwUUG9gNBUxcwVhVL5DkDvBqdDXM_kWBRGn4KIpgJ5uyVu94ucnYZLZgduICmp9dPehhLXNQ4kkhPnNzYCbwLOaWHTrp7b9DcCBIMoLxKER3_S9kIX0-FOOTIdR9QUT27sIlNgYub1/w640-h360/IMG_2099.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peaks from Kongmaru la 5263 metres</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #222222; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">We left Nimaling around 6.30am. It was a clear morning and
Kangyatse was clearly visible. We climbed steadily and in about an hour reached
a meadow where a large number of Ladakh pika were scurrying in and out of their
burrows. From here we could see the steep climb upto the top of the pass. In
the meadows at an altitude of around 5000 metres there were some beautiful blue
flowers flowering in the rocks. We reached the top of Kongmaru la around 9 30
am after numerous stops. We could see the entire view including Dzo Jongo and
the Kangyatse peaks. The descent from Kongmaru la was steep and for the first
hour zigzagged around the hillside losing around 300 metres where we stopped in
a green clearing for lunch – some bharal were grazing nearby. It then entered
the gorge of the river valley where the trail had been damaged due to floods.
We found numerous landslides and zig zags - there were numerous ups and downs -
climbing out of the river bed and onto the trail above the rocks and then down
to the river bed again to avoid the landslide sections. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We also noticed that in the afternoon the
river waters begins to rise dangerously due to glacial melt higher up and the
waters of the Chuksirmo Khola was now a raging torrent which had overtaken the
trail in many places. A walk from the pass to Chogdo which should take around
5-6 hours finally ended in 8-9 hours after numerous river crossings too many to
mention. It was an exhausting end to the trek. Due to the poor trail
conditions, groups should either camp below the pass in the green clearing
where water is available and descend to Chogdo in the next morning when water
levels will be low or alternatively leave Nimaling very early by 5 am so that
you are across the pass by 8 am and down to Chogdo by 2-3 pm before the water
levels rise.<b> </b></span><b><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Nimaling to Kongmaru La 3 km Kongmaru La to
Chukirmo 8 km</span><span style="color: #222222; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
</span><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Nimaling to Kongmaru La 2 to 3 hours</span></span><span style="color: #222222; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
</span><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Kongmaru La to Chukirmo 5-6 <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>hours</span> to Chogdo 45 min from Chukirmo (
this should be the timing, we took a lot more due to the river conditions)</span><span style="color: #222222; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br />
</span><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Kongmaru La 5250 metres 33 47 25 N 77 37 2 E</span></span><span style="color: #222222; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;" />
</span></b><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><b><span style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; font-variant-caps: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-decoration-color: initial; text-decoration-style: initial; text-decoration-thickness: initial; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;">Chukirmo 4100 metres 33 49 29 N 77 39 7 E</span> Chogdo 3800 metres</b><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbXZDkNJm505k6QGxdroHyKzulZHcfLL-jMbp3qpsH_fAtW83Kx_lyOlEQcRBGJ7OKM2TRICxfj3KJ_ucvLqL5UYM8_ljknntsz6YSRd34GhYktWI9_H2Bzr84ZudSiAfDvl1srvCcyzn/s1500/IMG_1892.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKbXZDkNJm505k6QGxdroHyKzulZHcfLL-jMbp3qpsH_fAtW83Kx_lyOlEQcRBGJ7OKM2TRICxfj3KJ_ucvLqL5UYM8_ljknntsz6YSRd34GhYktWI9_H2Bzr84ZudSiAfDvl1srvCcyzn/w640-h480/IMG_1892.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="background: white; color: #3d85c6; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="background: white; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">For a short video on the Markha trek do visit<span style="color: #3d85c6; font-weight: bold;"> </span></span><span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S3RIUcfAb0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S3RIUcfAb0</a></b></span></p><p class="MsoNormal">For more on our treks and expeditions do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com" style="color: #3d85c6;">www.southcol.com</a> </p><span><!--more--></span><span><!--more--></span>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-77600865154668924892021-06-08T02:30:00.035+05:302021-06-08T02:30:00.197+05:30Mallory and Irvine | Everest Tibet side 8th June 1924<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XOWs2QOpGJM6tPGa6sFe3s0cZXsLE_Zte8NuRzOOo3L5sNLlyPWQRNHkbFxPR6f1MSvxGkm0sHhGtjugm_RCi3247HmH6jSuODHg36atZCiic5i_b3tuIvLJfbQ6Ykmbb7AUBL5omxL1/s1500/mallory+and+irvine+1924.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1196" data-original-width="1500" height="510" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2XOWs2QOpGJM6tPGa6sFe3s0cZXsLE_Zte8NuRzOOo3L5sNLlyPWQRNHkbFxPR6f1MSvxGkm0sHhGtjugm_RCi3247HmH6jSuODHg36atZCiic5i_b3tuIvLJfbQ6Ykmbb7AUBL5omxL1/w640-h510/mallory+and+irvine+1924.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><i style="color: #0b5394; font-family: inherit;"><b>‘The question remains – “Has Mt Everest been climbed?” It must be left unanswered, for there is no direct evidence. But bearing in mind the circumstances ….. and considering their position when last seen, I think myself there is a strong probability that Mallory and Irvine succeeded.’ Noel Odell, The Fight for Everest 1924.</b></i><p></p><p></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">On 8th June 1924, two men left Camp VI (26,700 feet) to attempt to reach the summit of Everest, 29,029 feet. Camp VI was the highest camp of the British 1924 Everest expedition.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">On the same morning, another British climber, Noel Odell, was making his way up from Camp IV to Camp VI. Odell was a geologist and he was collecting fossils from the slopes of Mount Everest. Odell recalls that it was not the perfect morning to climb Everest. “Rolling banks of mist" were sweeping across the mountain and covering the north face. There was also a sharp wind which made climbing very difficult. Neither the north face nor the summit ridge could be seen by Odell. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">At 12.50 pm, there was “a sudden clearing in the atmosphere” and “the whole summit ridge and the final peak of Everest unveiled.” Odell spotted high above on the ridge, a black dot climbing a rock step, which Odell at that point identified as the Second Step. Soon after Odell saw another black dot following the first black dot. But before Odell could be sure that the second black dot had joined the first, the mist rolled in and blanketed the mountain and this fantastic vision was lost forever.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The two dots that Odell saw were George Mallory and Andrew Irvine "going strongly for the summit of Everest". Mallory and Irvine were never seen again.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">But even today, ninety seven years after the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine, the legend of George Mallory is still alive. Books are being written about Mallory, expeditions are being planned to find Andrew Irvine and his camera because Everest researchers believe that the camera will unlock the secret of Mallory's last climb. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">In 1999, Conrad Anker found Mallory at 26,750 feet lying face down on the slopes of Everest - Irvine has not been found.</span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">In 2019, an expedition was organised to climb Everest from the North side and attempt to find Irvine. The team summitted Everest but Irvine was not found. Mark Synnott one of the expedition members has written a book on the expedition which has been recently released: The Third Pole. The detailed account of the expedition is here <a href="https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/article/our-team-climbed-everest-to-try-to-solve-its-greatest-mystery-feature">https://www.nationalgeographic.com/magazine/article/our-team-climbed-everest-to-try-to-solve-its-greatest-mystery-feature</a></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">This year 2021, is the centenary of the first Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1921. To commemorate the event the Alpine Club has organized an exhibition in London and released a book in two volumes on the Everest Expeditions of 1921, 1922 and 1924. </span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The link is here <a href="http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/club-news/825-everest-by-those-who-were-there">http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/club-news/825-everest-by-those-who-were-there</a></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">In this post we take a look at some photographs and other memorabilia from the Everest expeditions of 1921, 1922 and 1924. <span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWY5DbntiRogOmB-K86dEjBZEE6QYXwHwSSUL41SbBYWhiaSUMWDexM97xh90z9TBFNtXPBoOI20V56MevhqoN7qGJ0t2J-SFklBb1Vq7qPSFOg4eYzSsjTkTrcb6TsYTWdUoQJj1tM7WV/s1600/_DSC0265.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="447" data-original-width="640" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWY5DbntiRogOmB-K86dEjBZEE6QYXwHwSSUL41SbBYWhiaSUMWDexM97xh90z9TBFNtXPBoOI20V56MevhqoN7qGJ0t2J-SFklBb1Vq7qPSFOg4eYzSsjTkTrcb6TsYTWdUoQJj1tM7WV/s640/_DSC0265.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Members of the 1921 Expedition - <span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Standing: Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Heron, Raeburn.</span><br /><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Sitting: Mallory, Wheeler, Bullock, Morshead.</span> <br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b><br /><br /></b></span></div><div style="background-color: white; text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #0b5394; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; font-weight: bold; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSdz-MkxZmIQ5kE6uuIY17mHuarXL3f5FPKAOjVYR92j6jRM2HjvKT97BfMrQNmK_rMlRkaLkvDKoeB4T0H2_1MG51HD2Yj0laDNIAF-aMaYscM1NferNK3VqGrRPgmDjDiMMahDffTxWq/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="793" data-original-width="1024" height="495" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSdz-MkxZmIQ5kE6uuIY17mHuarXL3f5FPKAOjVYR92j6jRM2HjvKT97BfMrQNmK_rMlRkaLkvDKoeB4T0H2_1MG51HD2Yj0laDNIAF-aMaYscM1NferNK3VqGrRPgmDjDiMMahDffTxWq/w640-h495/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Members of the 1924 expedition - Standing from left Irvine, Mallory, Norton, Odell, Macdonald. In front: Shebbeare, Bruce, Somervell, Beetham. Members not in the photo : Noel, Hingston, Hazard.</span><br /><br /></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b><br /></b></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>"Higher in the sky than imagination had ventured to dream, the top of Everest itself appeared"</b></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"><br /><br /><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b></b></span><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KtGV9AvFCGY/VznHxNXQ6jI/AAAAAAAAKfM/d5L4LaXIgyIBBd87HiMYt3QEL1SPtp3YwCLcB/s1600/_DSC0266.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KtGV9AvFCGY/VznHxNXQ6jI/AAAAAAAAKfM/d5L4LaXIgyIBBd87HiMYt3QEL1SPtp3YwCLcB/s640/_DSC0266.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Everest view from the Pang La pass in Tibet<br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBvQ0celMtiynEDLrqDEiSoacuN8BLMw0YDmC2xIAaIyj8q0NfQjhzo49ie-_j4k5sgTruSXuDH054VFE8IjnUBf71XSt7hYO4DkVr-Jbe3L29ZCaRvFZxe6W4zM1b-7oGFmuEjdKzbEak/s1600/5144372_f260.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="441" data-original-width="260" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBvQ0celMtiynEDLrqDEiSoacuN8BLMw0YDmC2xIAaIyj8q0NfQjhzo49ie-_j4k5sgTruSXuDH054VFE8IjnUBf71XSt7hYO4DkVr-Jbe3L29ZCaRvFZxe6W4zM1b-7oGFmuEjdKzbEak/s640/5144372_f260.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="376" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Mallory and Irvine on the ship S S California which brought them to India in 1924</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e26k-zgflA4/VznI0mtftyI/AAAAAAAAKfg/IjFBAisX3GcHWcNnaPfCuat3jbiKnpPvQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0419.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-e26k-zgflA4/VznI0mtftyI/AAAAAAAAKfg/IjFBAisX3GcHWcNnaPfCuat3jbiKnpPvQCLcB/s640/IMG_0419.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Andrew Irvine working on oxygen cylinders<br /><br /><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmEqr0sDSz-EnJUvpNvJNgeDd4Z6UUyHH0N4YiOwqw8t1-xw-ddZyDYY0iI4ysfH8PmTcwbHsJOMLF9eMriEQAsUAi_IHZGUw7JyPwalHg4UaXTTMCTa488Ihgs9P6VeEpTHnDKd-8d2gs/s1600/norton+and+somervell.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="640" height="514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmEqr0sDSz-EnJUvpNvJNgeDd4Z6UUyHH0N4YiOwqw8t1-xw-ddZyDYY0iI4ysfH8PmTcwbHsJOMLF9eMriEQAsUAi_IHZGUw7JyPwalHg4UaXTTMCTa488Ihgs9P6VeEpTHnDKd-8d2gs/s640/norton+and+somervell.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Norton and Somervell with their sherpas before their summit attempt</td></tr></tbody></table><p><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTPuuvsnek-dBVGG3StSPEhXhvlY2jG5K68RfpF1kDUIquu7E1J2GoXnyE_kvk-x8T3ZD1_2Q2Sj3n5YrKhdzmXxSbVmyWvdUIVzQfhbf56Xgwo0W8hhLt-cS-6-ZqadobEB0OnUnzN5CM/s1600/route.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="589" data-original-width="1200" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTPuuvsnek-dBVGG3StSPEhXhvlY2jG5K68RfpF1kDUIquu7E1J2GoXnyE_kvk-x8T3ZD1_2Q2Sj3n5YrKhdzmXxSbVmyWvdUIVzQfhbf56Xgwo0W8hhLt-cS-6-ZqadobEB0OnUnzN5CM/s640/route.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Norton and Somervell's climb - Norton reaches 28,000 feet without oxygen </td></tr></tbody></table><p><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsNNVP6RxRushA3yjOVR0O3f5SQDatatk32FvDZc2dlWF4DtOVdTkokbG2fH7ad9SZw4cDxNvFHd3EggeoRgF3fd5nOPtOKhD4soOTQfzxd7QIlxsFNPKYCxHIav-_ShhdJ_xFEQmklShY/s1600/norton.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="523" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsNNVP6RxRushA3yjOVR0O3f5SQDatatk32FvDZc2dlWF4DtOVdTkokbG2fH7ad9SZw4cDxNvFHd3EggeoRgF3fd5nOPtOKhD4soOTQfzxd7QIlxsFNPKYCxHIav-_ShhdJ_xFEQmklShY/s640/norton.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="522" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;"><span style="font-size: 12.8px;">Norton set an altitude record in 1924 without oxygen reaching 8570 metres which remained unchallenged until Messner and Habeler climbed Everest in 1978 without oxygen</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; text-align: center;"><b><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br />"I cannot tell you how it possesses me"</span></b><br /><b><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span></b><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2MpaIbll75hnf5P3el2L_KYwnzBr4SJTMcVT4SzMRnDBwPBVa_Y0VmLDHlGHaqY75FfcmBZOf_r1f0k1Iv4F28ceYq__yJ3tOIiYapNU93fhNM_1BjZHiCGUE-ExKS-03Blg_dQDMpD5/s1600/route+odell.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="1200" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw2MpaIbll75hnf5P3el2L_KYwnzBr4SJTMcVT4SzMRnDBwPBVa_Y0VmLDHlGHaqY75FfcmBZOf_r1f0k1Iv4F28ceYq__yJ3tOIiYapNU93fhNM_1BjZHiCGUE-ExKS-03Blg_dQDMpD5/s640/route+odell.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Mallory and Irvine's climb</td></tr></tbody></table><b><span style="color: #0b5394;"><br /></span></b></div><p><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;" /></p><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0WAxZ6H5t-0/VznI9SNXFpI/AAAAAAAAKfw/RzUkH_FTJpgSF86Ry7nD9VIwwfC7-UKsgCLcB/s1600/IMG_0418.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0WAxZ6H5t-0/VznI9SNXFpI/AAAAAAAAKfw/RzUkH_FTJpgSF86Ry7nD9VIwwfC7-UKsgCLcB/s640/IMG_0418.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="478" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Mallory's watch found in 1999 by Conrad Anker and the team</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-dxwnGr_vDFhNvD_cFDBLTHgNSm2pOq-o8eWMX8ua9ke-yDuBSs2MHi2hfIMhxkP2z3eF-ZCA9T_2F1FV3zy1ZBXaeM-VRpNdmoWfiVW8q1dZi1_q4w2he16j2WSYowCBgsw_8N0YLPFC/s1600/note+to+noel.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="908" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-dxwnGr_vDFhNvD_cFDBLTHgNSm2pOq-o8eWMX8ua9ke-yDuBSs2MHi2hfIMhxkP2z3eF-ZCA9T_2F1FV3zy1ZBXaeM-VRpNdmoWfiVW8q1dZi1_q4w2he16j2WSYowCBgsw_8N0YLPFC/s640/note+to+noel.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="484" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Note from Mallory to Noel - the 8 pm in the note is obviously a mistake and should be 8 am!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZNgzlx6-GLbYLwyeJOILnzuNqIfCKncBnbE_7VWGBTd5InHUBqcuOW-2Rx7Iw8cXaLOZ1ONgj1yekiWIInnmr5ZJ6nRr2VIxVtscLU8__vtDykPsZowsgNyK7Nr33UILJDEE3qRXhCwj/s1600/_DSC0269.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="780" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLZNgzlx6-GLbYLwyeJOILnzuNqIfCKncBnbE_7VWGBTd5InHUBqcuOW-2Rx7Iw8cXaLOZ1ONgj1yekiWIInnmr5ZJ6nRr2VIxVtscLU8__vtDykPsZowsgNyK7Nr33UILJDEE3qRXhCwj/s640/_DSC0269.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="416" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Mallory's note to Odell which he found in Camp VI - the weather when they started out was good as Mallory mentions in the note - Perfect weather for the job!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: #0b5394;"><b>"Again and for the last time we advance up the Rongbuk glacier for victory or final defeat "</b></span></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdf5IZUtIPbRz26DMkrMQrbrmOCDgmwNQYpCTn2k6GjuwXGe-iimQFF5J3rZezkPtQ1FauFH5EZWUisuefbcN056N-OvLdGAZcp6vO_jPLo0MQRuJpaZIq93gsMYcsJxqdwa3z6CFjlLx/s1600/_DSC0262.JPG" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdf5IZUtIPbRz26DMkrMQrbrmOCDgmwNQYpCTn2k6GjuwXGe-iimQFF5J3rZezkPtQ1FauFH5EZWUisuefbcN056N-OvLdGAZcp6vO_jPLo0MQRuJpaZIq93gsMYcsJxqdwa3z6CFjlLx/s640/_DSC0262.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="480" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;">Letter from George Mallory to his daughter</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5VTdmkD_plS6VQm-CPGE99Eq_fFAmfEKz_z2SV5atBXnkikqT4ogriUqdKqIqSTonQcIAGkz3aZMK8Xp9tzl0qlUA-2ldSRIjLBcgUdiS7MIR6mt9F7ombRwafJTkqnovGcKTtO4lKNy/s1600/cairn.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1043" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5VTdmkD_plS6VQm-CPGE99Eq_fFAmfEKz_z2SV5atBXnkikqT4ogriUqdKqIqSTonQcIAGkz3aZMK8Xp9tzl0qlUA-2ldSRIjLBcgUdiS7MIR6mt9F7ombRwafJTkqnovGcKTtO4lKNy/s640/cairn.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="556" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 10.56px;">Memorial of the three Everest Expeditions 1921,1922 and 1924<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51gxpPLF7f0EAMw_2zZRc2eN_nKQ0v9rox1YjG06ENtKPXji92IwBpJ8097fmVS5Ncv9qIlJCtaJt9rq1GStkTVOgudoAk3CwuuqE_8N0OyqG-FQjXPm22ONp0Si74vy1hTunKDwqgUI_/s1600/news-001.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="869" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi51gxpPLF7f0EAMw_2zZRc2eN_nKQ0v9rox1YjG06ENtKPXji92IwBpJ8097fmVS5Ncv9qIlJCtaJt9rq1GStkTVOgudoAk3CwuuqE_8N0OyqG-FQjXPm22ONp0Si74vy1hTunKDwqgUI_/s640/news-001.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="462" /></a></div><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; font-family: "Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif; font-size: 13.2px; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZV2CwZUm6DdtjKsxtwgoIihlZ_F2FZ5qAlI7s2q1JKpKbcclO5H5VC1m6IFGcL0ER4k7ssk1-phKOPtYY8RAlJXVFoXjl879ne8VJXpPyC7uVdPQdGaBB6L1E78FTPckT6jiXkcLsP78A/s1600/_DSC8840.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZV2CwZUm6DdtjKsxtwgoIihlZ_F2FZ5qAlI7s2q1JKpKbcclO5H5VC1m6IFGcL0ER4k7ssk1-phKOPtYY8RAlJXVFoXjl879ne8VJXpPyC7uVdPQdGaBB6L1E78FTPckT6jiXkcLsP78A/s640/_DSC8840.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="426" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><div><span style="font-size: x-small;">1924 oxygen cylinders at the Planters Club Darjeeling</span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></div><div><b style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="font-size: small;">"...some day you will hear a different story..."</span></b></div><div><b style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></b></div><b style="font-family: times, "times new roman", serif; font-size: 13.2px;"><span style="color: red;">All photographs reproduced above are copyright of Royal Geographical Society, John Noel Photographic Collection and their respective owners. </span></b><b><span style="color: red;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></b><div><b style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></b></div></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-8005048324485629072021-05-29T02:00:00.074+05:302021-05-29T02:00:00.205+05:30Everest | 29th May 1953 - The First Ascent<p><span style="font-family: inherit;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigiFZUv3GAPHpSkPW9BMToEbdP1Ms5w55AxKSHyyGYTALTmgCMyW7a2j16epuBlsuNWDHc0cgKXfozsXf-JoP1RqunCMOmdUHKcAQJ40b_LMZ-Qajd05yT-0X-vc0kenozW7sev2GhXz2n/s1400/_DSC1429.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1034" data-original-width="1400" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigiFZUv3GAPHpSkPW9BMToEbdP1Ms5w55AxKSHyyGYTALTmgCMyW7a2j16epuBlsuNWDHc0cgKXfozsXf-JoP1RqunCMOmdUHKcAQJ40b_LMZ-Qajd05yT-0X-vc0kenozW7sev2GhXz2n/w640-h472/_DSC1429.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /> </span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Today is sixty eight years since the first ascent of Everest.</span><p></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">On 29th May 1953 at 11.30 am, a Sherpa and a New Zealander became the first men to stand on top of the highest peak on this planet. However the intervening years has seen a sea change as far as Everest is concerned. The mountain has now become a playground for guided expeditions, with clients paying between thirty thousand to eighty thousand dollars or more to stand on the highest point on earth. The South Col route climbed in 1953 is now disdainfully referred to as the “yak trail”. The dangerous icefall below the Western Cwm is maintained by a team of sherpas right through the season led by a senior “Icefall Doctor.” and ropes are fixed from Base Camp to the summit to allow "clients" to reach the top of the mountain. </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">Due to the covid pandemic there were no attempts on the mountain in 2020. </span></span><div><span style="color: #222222;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="color: #222222;">A record number of 400 plus climbers and 40 plus expeditions were issued climbing permits in 2021 despite the covid wave. <br /></span><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><div>The large number of climbers, sherpas and support staff at base camp around 1500 or so resulted in a covid outbreak at Base Camp and as per information received around 100 to 150 covid cases were detected – a majority were evacuated to Kathmandu hospitals and the rest which were milder cases remained isolated in tents at base camp. Lukas Furtenbach, an Austrian operator, decided to cancel his expedition midway due this high covid risk which he deemed unacceptable.</div><div><br /></div><div>In an interesting development, a team from Mountain Professionals set out from the South Col at 5 am on May 23rd 2021 and reached the summit by afternoon - possibly the first time in many, many years that a team has climbed Everest in the day enjoying sunny weather, gazing at the magnificent views, warmer temperatures and above all no long lines, headlamps and struggling along in the cold dark night. There were advised by a meteorologist that there would be a day window on the 23rd May and they gladly seized the opportunity and had the mountain to themselves.</div><div><br /></div><div>However the effect of the two cyclones over India and Nepal hampered the progress of the teams. As I write this post Cyclone Yaas is over Nepal and depositing heavy snow on the slopes of Everest. </div><div><br /></div><div>For the first time the Icefall Doctors team have agreed to keep the Icefall open until 3rd June 2021, to allow the remaining teams on the mountain a chance to summit if they are able to get another weather window on 30/31st May 2021.</div><div style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></div></span></span></div><div><div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><span style="background-color: white;"><i><b><span style="color: #073763;"> </span><span style="color: #0b5394;">Kami Rita Sherpa created a new record this year by summiting Everest 25 times as a part of the Sherpa team who fixed the ropes to the summit - perhaps next year Kami will break his own record.</span></b></i></span></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">However, this post recounts through photographs, the 1953 climb, the historic ascent of the first two men to summit Everest and the team of climbers and sherpas who supported them through this endeavour.</span></span></span></div><div><span><a name='more'></a></span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5x2R2q-HqIE/WSQ6ZkbQS5I/AAAAAAAALfc/PJhqgd6YpXwqCILsO3RqNhAm-SzhNnwdwCEw/s1600/7.3.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="436" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5x2R2q-HqIE/WSQ6ZkbQS5I/AAAAAAAALfc/PJhqgd6YpXwqCILsO3RqNhAm-SzhNnwdwCEw/s640/7.3.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Bourdillon and Evans on their return from the South Summit on May 26th 1953 - Bourdillon had wanted to make a push for the summit</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-reqbzO8kRig/WSQ6Z2En7mI/AAAAAAAALfg/AnjpblRgs3Ulw-mj0tjavBvWlV67-pCEgCEw/s1600/Alfred%2B13.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-reqbzO8kRig/WSQ6Z2En7mI/AAAAAAAALfg/AnjpblRgs3Ulw-mj0tjavBvWlV67-pCEgCEw/s640/Alfred%2B13.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="586" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Nawang Gombu, nephew of Tenzing Norgay, crossing the icefall ladders - Gombu later became the first man to climb Everest twice in 1963 and 1965</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByAcCdCLW0AeNUo9r3oLIRzyUEgUE4MUkx_G995mW0DLjdm84kO63WdxVc7cyHJDIIwSKbLav_J7LMUrKmUIuGrLxgH2uXX6Km0Yg5eVIZzHiM8P9MFxI265W9vq6ughddWIJ7HGREvbr/s1600/George+Lowe+photo.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="865" data-original-width="1200" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjByAcCdCLW0AeNUo9r3oLIRzyUEgUE4MUkx_G995mW0DLjdm84kO63WdxVc7cyHJDIIwSKbLav_J7LMUrKmUIuGrLxgH2uXX6Km0Yg5eVIZzHiM8P9MFxI265W9vq6ughddWIJ7HGREvbr/s640/George+Lowe+photo.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The five men who helped Hillary and Tenzing to carry to Camp 9 27,800 feet - John Hunt, Da Namgyal, Alf Gregory, Any Nyima and George Lowe - Photo George Lowe Collection</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PFUK2a-CZ2Y/WSQ6d2mfacI/AAAAAAAALf0/zA2Zz1BGXKsAF2LSqFEdhoyYasyHxNAQgCEw/s1600/_DSC1431.JPG" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PFUK2a-CZ2Y/WSQ6d2mfacI/AAAAAAAALf0/zA2Zz1BGXKsAF2LSqFEdhoyYasyHxNAQgCEw/s640/_DSC1431.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="410" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The map of the Khumbu icefall and the route followed by the 1953 expedition<br /><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ue7yEnSWVbA/WSQ6ZoLuHPI/AAAAAAAALfY/ExzZY1bsBHY92UE_2GVqAA-7OyhcU0zewCEw/s1600/British%2BEverest%2BExpedition%2B1953.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ue7yEnSWVbA/WSQ6ZoLuHPI/AAAAAAAALfY/ExzZY1bsBHY92UE_2GVqAA-7OyhcU0zewCEw/s640/British%2BEverest%2BExpedition%2B1953.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">From left: John Hunt, Ed Hillary, Tenzing, Ang Nyima, Alfred Gregory and George Lowe after the ascent</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sGT1OD5DF7Q/WSQ6blmvH9I/AAAAAAAALfk/GcEGCIASNS0ZfY6lv3tZ_k5gWfDb9SZrwCEw/s1600/Telegram-1953-enlarged.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sGT1OD5DF7Q/WSQ6blmvH9I/AAAAAAAALfk/GcEGCIASNS0ZfY6lv3tZ_k5gWfDb9SZrwCEw/s640/Telegram-1953-enlarged.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="560" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The code which was later used in the telegram to send the news before the Queen's coronation</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--aBNUFKQ8EU/WSQ9eAoi4hI/AAAAAAAALgU/Nmsv-mt2jHcSaJmcbb5OArS1SyhMIHdkQCLcB/s1600/letter-expl-telegram-enlarg.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--aBNUFKQ8EU/WSQ9eAoi4hI/AAAAAAAALgU/Nmsv-mt2jHcSaJmcbb5OArS1SyhMIHdkQCLcB/s640/letter-expl-telegram-enlarg.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The telegram sent by John Hunt after the ascent</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pZKHToIsmwc/WSQ6cnute2I/AAAAAAAALfo/8iA43T9ssoQz0F2uxsDwz7il9DJu33LywCEw/s1600/London%2B1953%2Bfter%2Beverest.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="516" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pZKHToIsmwc/WSQ6cnute2I/AAAAAAAALfo/8iA43T9ssoQz0F2uxsDwz7il9DJu33LywCEw/s640/London%2B1953%2Bfter%2Beverest.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Hunt, Hillary and Tenzing in London</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3t9FBFo32AuMWjdkxsrJOAQZaZCZtgHRfeiJQ2VBaxjX5cejvhluG59dd51NH-zxj8aERjGhXrsbPkut8CHwNu6RLfHcfXhNvqH0rEqD3NM5UBv2kDiQsA_zkJ8iKiv_3OAlRZZryztU/s1500/Sherpas+1953.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="898" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI3t9FBFo32AuMWjdkxsrJOAQZaZCZtgHRfeiJQ2VBaxjX5cejvhluG59dd51NH-zxj8aERjGhXrsbPkut8CHwNu6RLfHcfXhNvqH0rEqD3NM5UBv2kDiQsA_zkJ8iKiv_3OAlRZZryztU/w384-h640/Sherpas+1953.jpg" width="384" /></a></div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9e8m0VIau0M/WSQ9T-FbkiI/AAAAAAAALgQ/xi5c_DBe0Uk40N8kMvenWdBSpJ55NZkuwCLcB/s1600/everest-adictamente.blogspot.com%2B%252812%2529.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9e8m0VIau0M/WSQ9T-FbkiI/AAAAAAAALgQ/xi5c_DBe0Uk40N8kMvenWdBSpJ55NZkuwCLcB/s640/everest-adictamente.blogspot.com%2B%252812%2529.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The full expedition team with the sherpas</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-my_HBlhI0QI/WSWSI6xB_zI/AAAAAAAALhg/-moTURKmoiACBRNRnz-oqr5tG2OXSc66wCLcB/s1600/_DSC1432.JPG" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="926" data-original-width="1024" height="578" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-my_HBlhI0QI/WSWSI6xB_zI/AAAAAAAALhg/-moTURKmoiACBRNRnz-oqr5tG2OXSc66wCLcB/s640/_DSC1432.JPG" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Tenzing and his mother at Tengboche monastery after the climb</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tFCJHKp6ZXs/WSpeD7eFliI/AAAAAAAALiI/slPy4qPL0IYiAxu54ok9hKcFATigKmc1ACLcB/s1600/Everest%2Bclimbed.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="1024" height="428" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tFCJHKp6ZXs/WSpeD7eFliI/AAAAAAAALiI/slPy4qPL0IYiAxu54ok9hKcFATigKmc1ACLcB/s640/Everest%2Bclimbed.jpg" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; padding: 5px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="background-color: white; clear: both; color: #222222; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPnkxrYKi1UFptrp0BZR5cPwK8ENcrzaoVCxB9pYy-gLK8_122o2WI69xJHxja1LgXSKRPNFMCPbweVaf2I36YQZyZWGtiQDq21w6DedNdoPc4zrocTvYOyargEDjDH98WdWQLwZIMd-A/s1600/tenzingedsmile.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="549" data-original-width="976" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUPnkxrYKi1UFptrp0BZR5cPwK8ENcrzaoVCxB9pYy-gLK8_122o2WI69xJHxja1LgXSKRPNFMCPbweVaf2I36YQZyZWGtiQDq21w6DedNdoPc4zrocTvYOyargEDjDH98WdWQLwZIMd-A/s640/tenzingedsmile.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Tenzing and Hillary at Tengboche monastery after the successful climb</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9E8T9bKJ2gHHyPxJ2aF4dGHqNo2Rix8WzAMkk851foooqC_PN6C4Zxy0vbZppntr_96alR_ZbLDGPFGoHZskob70Zp3NNejIvmcXIKq62PM29LJRvFefRTdQqKlmMJSwGeOau0tw1FDis/s1600/Tenzing+sketch+for+Ullman.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="679" data-original-width="960" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9E8T9bKJ2gHHyPxJ2aF4dGHqNo2Rix8WzAMkk851foooqC_PN6C4Zxy0vbZppntr_96alR_ZbLDGPFGoHZskob70Zp3NNejIvmcXIKq62PM29LJRvFefRTdQqKlmMJSwGeOau0tw1FDis/s640/Tenzing+sketch+for+Ullman.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sketch map drawn by Tenzing for his biographer James Ramsay Ullman </span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM3YAowznuhSXZZrKwNRubmHKNuDZILu3_albcJV_T2VK-lZqw-z29QGiXvWRelEgbH0Kv7EVOmsyzWybAkHUxGLH0GD4KwJf0dqetAUpqLPdnAn2bpuOG5oObs9USSRFDmZtkyNaZY_Aj/s1600/the+times+evereet+color+supplement.jpg" style="color: #888888; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM3YAowznuhSXZZrKwNRubmHKNuDZILu3_albcJV_T2VK-lZqw-z29QGiXvWRelEgbH0Kv7EVOmsyzWybAkHUxGLH0GD4KwJf0dqetAUpqLPdnAn2bpuOG5oObs9USSRFDmZtkyNaZY_Aj/s640/the+times+evereet+color+supplement.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="416" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span><span style="font-family: inherit;">The signed colour supplement of The Times</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;">For a webinar on the life of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa do visit this youtube link </div><div style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://youtu.be/N3EtwBBRq9o">https://youtu.be/N3EtwBBRq9o</a></div><br /></span></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="background-color: white;"><b><span style="color: #073763; font-family: inherit;">All photographs in this post are copyright the ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY and the respective owners. This post is non-commercial. </span></b></div></div></div></div></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com8Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-71706035414722906292021-05-22T02:00:00.036+05:302021-05-22T12:12:25.404+05:30Everest West Ridge | The First Ascent May 22nd 1963<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwrrHoGRAEQmn5iZUSWDodmrGAyuEWB5njgc5UFkZy0EcqJBRlSqK2PQBMJ-jIwPyQ-7hmIHTRdjE8gd2teWctEr6tlQHxadfc8MG6qJ1qX7QXYyRFEdkLlXxfUS0YYiJd6F4WbxL58-rn/s737/Tom-H-1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="737" data-original-width="737" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwrrHoGRAEQmn5iZUSWDodmrGAyuEWB5njgc5UFkZy0EcqJBRlSqK2PQBMJ-jIwPyQ-7hmIHTRdjE8gd2teWctEr6tlQHxadfc8MG6qJ1qX7QXYyRFEdkLlXxfUS0YYiJd6F4WbxL58-rn/w640-h640/Tom-H-1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Tom Horbein</div><p></p><p><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Merriweather, Georgia, serif;"><span style="color: #181818; font-size: 14px;">“</span><i><span style="color: #0b5394;">Evenings were peaceful, smoke settling in the quiet air to soften the dusk, lights twinkling on the ridge we would camp on tomorrow, clouds dimming the outline of our pass for the day after. Growing excitement lured my thoughts again and again to the West Ridge….</span></i></span></p><i><span style="color: #0b5394;"><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Merriweather, Georgia, serif;">There was loneliness, too, as the sun set, but only rarely now did doubts return. Then I felt sinkingly as if my whole life lay behind me. Once on the mountain I knew (or trusted) that this would give way to total absorption with the task at hand. But at times I wondered if I had not come a long way only to find what I really sought was something I had left behind.” </span></span></i><i style="background-color: white; color: #0b5394;"><span style="font-family: Merriweather, Georgia, serif;">― </span><span class="authorOrTitle" face="Lato, "Helvetica Neue", Helvetica, sans-serif" style="font-weight: bold;">Thomas F. Hornbein</span></i><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #222222; font-family: inherit;">Today is the 58th anniversary of the first ascent of the West ridge of Everest and the first traverse of the mountain.</span></p><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">On 21</span><sup style="background-color: white; color: #222222;">st</sup><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> May 1963 at six o’clock in the evening two climbers reached 27,205 feet (8300 metres) to set up </span><st1:place style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">Camp</st1:placetype> <st1:placename w:st="on">5W</st1:placename></st1:place><span face=""Trebuchet MS", Trebuchet, sans-serif" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"> on the west ridge of Everest. Tom Horbein a US anesthesiologist then 32 years old and Willi Unsoeld , a mountain guide then 36 years of age were poised for the final push to the summit of Everest by a new route.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #222222;" /></span><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">It had not been easy for these two men. The 1963 American Everest Expedition led by Norman Dyhrenfurth had squarely set its sights on a first American ascent by the <st1:place w:st="on">South Col</st1:place> route. On May 1<sup>st 1963</sup>, Jim Whittaker accompanied by Sherpa Nawang Gombu, Tenzing’s nephew, made the first American ascent to become the fifth and six men to stand of the summit after the British in 1953 and Swiss in 1954.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; position: relative; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLsD6k0-QWQ2a_gaJha_S0616x2shFks-n0ovJ3dl0gDGxi-9b6SMLczZ9OMets2kz2GSe7K8ChyphenhyphencB7wy14AIe5C3Wf8vrHDyHP1rzqfYjoqPtuhV9u7Ht5C18FJqy7llDh3WF9XQf0bQN/s1600/Everest_Infographic_04192012_MAIN.jpg" style="color: #2187bb; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1400" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLsD6k0-QWQ2a_gaJha_S0616x2shFks-n0ovJ3dl0gDGxi-9b6SMLczZ9OMets2kz2GSe7K8ChyphenhyphencB7wy14AIe5C3Wf8vrHDyHP1rzqfYjoqPtuhV9u7Ht5C18FJqy7llDh3WF9XQf0bQN/s640/Everest_Infographic_04192012_MAIN.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Photo Courtesy -<a href="http://www.outsideonline.com/" style="color: #2187bb; text-decoration-line: none;" target="_blank"> outsideonline.com</a></span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;">But Horbein and Unsoeld had other ideas. Working doggedly with the meager resources including limited oxygen the duo set up camps on the virgin west ridge route.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">On the day of their summit climb, Barry Bishop, a National Geographic photographer, and Lute Jerstad were also attempting the summit by the South Col route. Bishop and Jerstad reached the summit around 4 pm but did not find any evidence of the west ridge team who were still two hours below the top.<br /><br /></span></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background: rgb(255, 255, 255); border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 5px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qjhfac1sg38/UZR7I-mS_PI/AAAAAAAAHBc/MRBnXbKxns4/s1600/Everest_Hornbein.west._04132012.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #2187bb; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qjhfac1sg38/UZR7I-mS_PI/AAAAAAAAHBc/MRBnXbKxns4/s400/Everest_Hornbein.west._04132012.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="262" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Horbein on the West Ridge- Photo Courtesy Willi Unsoeld</span></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The West ridge pair reached the summit at 6.15 pm on 22<sup>nd</sup> May 1963 and became the 11<sup>th</sup> and 12<sup>th</sup> men to climb Everest and the fifth and sixth of their expedition. But in the context of the history of Everest it was an enormous “first”: a climb by the West Ridge for the first time and more was to follow. They had been climbing for more than eleven hours since dawn. They saw the boot prints of Whittaker and Gombu and fresh prints which they knew must be of Bishop and Jerstad.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Maynard Miller and Jimmy Roberts at Advance Base (around 23,500 feet) below had scanned the heights throughout the day and kept the radio open. Around 7 pm when it was almost dark and anxiety had risen, Willi Unsoeld’s voice came through the radio. They had just summitted Everest he said and were descending by the south <st1:place w:st="on">east ridge</st1:place> in the dark on a route known to neither.<br /><br /><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">“Roger, Roger” Maynad called back through the crackle and wind.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><o:p> </o:p> And then he heard Willi’s voice again faint and indistinct reciting:</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">“…. I have promises to keep,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And miles to go before we sleep,</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">And miles to go before we sleep….”</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The “promises” were to Willi’s wife Joelene that Everest would be his last big mountain.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The west ridgers left the summit around two hours behind the south col team. With a flickering flashlight whose batteries were fast waning, the two climbers descended, following the boot prints and ice axe marks of Jerstad and Bishop. But soon the last light faded from the sky and night descended on the slopes of Everest. The climbers reduced the 150 feet rope into half so that they could remain closer to each other.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Jerstad and Bishop’s descent of the south <st1:place w:st="on">east ridge</st1:place> earlier was also not without drama. The seventy mile gusts were dragging the climbers towards the edge of the ridge and in Bishop’s words “ A section of the cornice at my chest gave way and I had a sudden hair raising view of the Kangshung glacier 10,000 feet below”. Bishop unroped himself and managed to return to the trail.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Suddenly they began to hear voices in the wilderness “Helloo, Helloo” and thought it was a rescue party from <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">Camp</st1:placetype> <st1:placename w:st="on">VI</st1:placename></st1:place> coming up in searching for them. Then they realized that the voices were from above. The West ridge climbers had descended in record time and caught up with the <st1:place w:st="on">South Col</st1:place> team!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The four climbers then descended together down the south <st1:place w:st="on">east ridge</st1:place>. The torch which Unsoeld had finally gave way and in the glimmer of starlight the climbers stumbled down. Finally at 12.30 midnight it was not possible to continue any further and the four Everesters sat down for what would be the highest bivouac at that time.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In 1953 Herman Buhl on his descent from Nanga Parbat and in 1955 Walter Bonatti and his porter had also spent the night at around 26,000 feet on <st1:place w:st="on">K2</st1:place> and survived though not without loss.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But the bivouac of the Americans was around 28,000 feet. However, luck was on their side. It was one night in fifty that the jet stream winds were silent on Everest!</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"> In Everest- The West Ridge, Horbein wrote:</span></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="color: #222222;"><br /> </span><i><span><span style="color: #073763;"><b>"The night was overpoweringly empty. Stars shed cold, unshimmering light. The heat lightning dancing along the plains spoke of a world of warmth and flatness. The black silhouette of <st1:place w:st="on">Lhotse</st1:place> lurked half-sensed, half-seen, still below. Only the ridge we were on rose higher, disappearing into the night, a last lonely outpost of the world."</b></span><span style="color: #222222;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></i></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-attachment: initial; background-clip: initial; background-image: initial; background-origin: initial; background-position: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-size: initial; border: 1px solid rgb(238, 238, 238); box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 1px 1px 5px; color: #222222; float: left; margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-right: 1em; padding: 5px; position: relative;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsnTXX38SK3yjTJwNiA4WmSIdl88Kx5O_diNqOO8_nKAroqP72EaZIG46UIwiB0pq2Qe9usVpKZP2y_nRSdRBRJ-hveUNOPJrL2br9e5tFZoIlFIHejcsYfuQKG22YqXVrwf0bkFZ0fAE/s1600/West+Rdige.jpg" style="clear: left; color: #2187bb; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-decoration-line: none;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="384" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmsnTXX38SK3yjTJwNiA4WmSIdl88Kx5O_diNqOO8_nKAroqP72EaZIG46UIwiB0pq2Qe9usVpKZP2y_nRSdRBRJ-hveUNOPJrL2br9e5tFZoIlFIHejcsYfuQKG22YqXVrwf0bkFZ0fAE/s400/West+Rdige.jpg" style="background: transparent; border: none; box-shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.1) 0px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; position: relative;" width="276" /></span></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Climbers on the West Ridge of Everest Photo:<br />Barry Bishop from Everest The West Ridge</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="font-family: inherit;">Amazingly, despite all odds the climbers survived to greet the icy dawn. National Geographic photographer Barry Bishop writes that it was one of finest mornings he had ever seen but he and his camera was too frozen to take a single photograph.</span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">But the bivouac took a heavy toll. Unsoeld lost nine toes to frostbite and Bishop six. Jerstad and Horbein were extremely lucky to get away unscathed.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Since the first West Ridge climb in 1963, there have been about sixty attempts on the route with about half a dozen successful climbs including the West Ridge direct. The number of deaths and the number of summiteers on this route have been about the same making it one of the hardest routes on Everest.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In 2012 two teams from the <st1:place w:st="on">USA</st1:place> including crack climbers like Conrad Anker, Cory Richards, Jake Norton and David Morton attempted the west ridge to commemorate the 1963 expedition. Unfavourable conditions forced both teams to give up the west ridge route.<br /><br /><o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In 1979 Unsoeld died on an avalanche on <st1:place w:st="on">Mount Rainier</st1:place> - one of the peaks he used to guide. Horbein recollects that Unsoeld and he spoke each year on May 22<sup>nd,</sup> the anniversary of their west ridge climb. After Unsoeld’s death Horbein speaks to his widow Jolene on that day.<o:p></o:p></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div class="MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; color: #222222;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">In the end, expedition leader Norman Dyhrenfurth, though pushing for the <st1:place w:st="on">South Col</st1:place> ascent gave the west ridge team full credit. Dyhrenfurth said “For years it had been the dream of mountaineers to do a major Himalayan traverse. We were particularly happy and proud that this was not only the first Himalayan traverse but that it was on Everest.”</span></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-0.322113236178847 51.7687251 56.29835443617884 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-6497462760110734092021-05-20T11:12:00.003+05:302021-05-20T11:22:00.348+05:30Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1921 | 100 Years Ago<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhNPEoqpUXEWhbffbH0yNJ2_7QrGR04Isr9F1ykIkz-zMCgHcQUHz9v_Z1x4tR0eEM_yX2dPEpO6K6M0JubxyDJpR4eY8ZSloLSVjwDjpM9XbVQFdmNdhk8KXg5oGemCJ1kCwZn-zWwq5/s576/1921_Mount_Everest_expedition_members_%2528cropped2%2529+%25281%2529.gif.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="435" data-original-width="576" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhNPEoqpUXEWhbffbH0yNJ2_7QrGR04Isr9F1ykIkz-zMCgHcQUHz9v_Z1x4tR0eEM_yX2dPEpO6K6M0JubxyDJpR4eY8ZSloLSVjwDjpM9XbVQFdmNdhk8KXg5oGemCJ1kCwZn-zWwq5/s16000/1921_Mount_Everest_expedition_members_%2528cropped2%2529+%25281%2529.gif.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Members of the 1921 expedition Standing: Wollaston, Howard-Bury, Heron, Raeburn. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">Sitting: Mallory, Wheeler, Bullock, Morshead. The ninth member Alexander Kellas had passed away en route to Everest on 5th June 1921</span></span></p><p>2021 is 100 years of the first Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1921. On January 11th 1921 this is what Sir Francis Younghusband said in The Times London:</p><p><i>From The Times: January 11, 1921</i></p><p></p><p>Sir Francis Younghusband, President of the Royal Geographical Society, announced at a meeting of the Society last night that the political obstacles to the proposed attempt to climb Mount Everest have been removed, that a preliminary reconnaissance will be made of the ground this year, and that the actual attempt on the summit will follow in 1922. </p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p> As has been previously stated in The Times, the Society and the Alpine Club have been planning an expedition to scale Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, for the past 18 months, but on November 8 Sir Francis informed the Society that in the view of the Government of India there were political reasons against proceeding further with preparations. </p><p>Last night, however, he was able to announce news from the Secretary of State for India that the Tibetan Government had been approached, and had given permission for an expedition to be sent to explore the peak. Such an expedition, said the President, must be essentially a great adventure. High risks will have to be run, and severe hardships endured — risks from icy slopes and rocky precipices, and such avalanches as buried Mummery’s party on Nanga Parbat 26 years ago; and hardships from intense cold, terrific winds, and blinding snowstorms. In addition, there will be the unknown factor of the capacity of a human being to stand great exertion at a height more than 4,000ft higher than man has as yet ascended any mountain.</p><p> The expedition will also be in the highest degree scientific. The summit will never be reached unless we have first explored all the approaches to it through country at present entirely unknown; and then examined, mapped, and photographed the mountain itself in fullest detaIl. In the present year the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society propose to organize a reconnaissance party to acquire this geographical knowledge. Next year we will send to Tibet a climbing party to apply it in a great effort to reach the summit. We hope that the reconnaissance party may cross into Tibet when the passes open, about the end of May. The results of their work will be examined during next winter and final plans made for the assault upon the mountain in 1922.</p><p>The Alpine Club has launched an exhibition Everest By Those Who Were There 1921, 1922 and 1924 - the details are available in the following link:</p><p><br /><a href="goog_1173451053">http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/news/club-news/825-everest-by-those-who-were-there?fbclid=IwAR00CneG-Q-yDxrXt2EiWB6lgCU5p-knqneUlG3zefLoLYE5xUf4oPIbjmI</a></p><p style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;"><br /></span></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com0Mt Everest27.9881206 86.9249751-1.97424342491718 51.7687251 57.950484624917181 122.0812251tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-10159115499419213292021-01-28T12:00:00.002+05:302021-02-05T14:50:06.035+05:30THE FANTASTICAL KINGDOM OF LO | Guest Post by Persis Anklesaria<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKKhRRfnKShBXk1E4wlZQM63OHZK30J8FnbO-YFFYfrksKjqRqLYTVi6CRYvlL88nXY0x0cO_0dHIbpj_x2TqUJLfvCQy8FxiC_sGGQbG-L_xe4Uzk0LGNdKCNcajCAlKNGKJOTT6TA8Z/s2000/IMG_1502.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="2000" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyKKhRRfnKShBXk1E4wlZQM63OHZK30J8FnbO-YFFYfrksKjqRqLYTVi6CRYvlL88nXY0x0cO_0dHIbpj_x2TqUJLfvCQy8FxiC_sGGQbG-L_xe4Uzk0LGNdKCNcajCAlKNGKJOTT6TA8Z/w640-h196/IMG_1502.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><i><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLo00j1-LB2txFiYK3cbZbeTqKnIke8nteIt3m5wYyLY8kXD8TmwyGhPQjYBjEMdu-2KXDt_TF3_8blAMf2wkF_i-rU05x88-cqDh61POk3dCUZspnVo2PVKP44BRqykE6hx-6iwy_I8zc/s1141/persis+tsum+valley.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1141" data-original-width="771" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLo00j1-LB2txFiYK3cbZbeTqKnIke8nteIt3m5wYyLY8kXD8TmwyGhPQjYBjEMdu-2KXDt_TF3_8blAMf2wkF_i-rU05x88-cqDh61POk3dCUZspnVo2PVKP44BRqykE6hx-6iwy_I8zc/w135-h200/persis+tsum+valley.JPG" width="135" /></a></span></i></div><i><span style="font-size: medium;">Persis Anklesaria, is a veteran <a href="http://www.southcol.com" target="_blank">South Col</a> trekker, keen photographer and gifted writer. In this post she recounts her journey to the once forbidden kingdom of Mustang - a fascinating part of the Himalayan rain shadow.</span></i><p></p><p></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Wedged between the Himalayas and shuttered
Tibet, lies an ancient Buddhist kingdom within the borders of Hindu Nepal.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">The kingdom of Lo.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">--------------------<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyTextFirstIndent" style="text-indent: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;">In the year 1380, the warrior chieftain Ame Pal,
gained control of </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;">the trade routes between India and Tibet</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;">, established a kingdom and built Lo
Manthang --- a grand walled capital of palaces, monasteries and <i>gompas</i></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;">.</span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyTextFirstIndent" style="text-indent: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyTextFirstIndent" style="text-indent: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Nothing much has changed since then.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sheltered behind 26,000 ft. high peaks, the <i>Lobas</i>
continue to live a centuries old existence, farming, raising livestock and
preserving their ancient faith. Today, this domain of approximately 13
settlements is the last bastion of pure Tibetan culture, its monasteries the
finest example of Buddhist art, and Ame Pal’s capital the best-preserved
medieval fortification in the world. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Georgia;">Till the 1950’s the only route into Mustang was on horseback via
treacherous passes. Now, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">a
Chinese road extends from Lhasa to Kathmandu, daily flights bring in a gaggle
of tourists.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Before a way of life
disappears forever, eight <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Southcol</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Expedition </i>trekkers including me, embark
on a 7-day, 64km climb from Jomsom airstrip (9000 ft.),<span style="color: #c0504d; mso-themecolor: accent2;"> </span>northwards to Lo Manthang (12,400ft.). <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">-----------------------------<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">As the Tara Air,
16-seater lifts off, Pokhara’s lake and green fields slip away, melting into
puffy clouds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Within minutes the skies
darken as we tunnel between the world’s two greatest mountain ranges at wingtip
distance. The Annapurna Peak metamorphoses into her fabled fish tail, while
across the aisle, the east face of Dhaulagiri, 26,000ft of dazzling beauty
floats past the windows. Below us the light-speckled Kali Gandaki River, its plunging
gorges, valleys and tributaries, bisect the terrain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Half-an-hour later we are in Jomsom, a brown,
barren, rocky desert.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> <span></span></o:p></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">After a brief
breakfast we’re off, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">to Kagbeni our first night-stop. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="background: white; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The nine km t</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">rail lowers us to the river spread wide across the
valley, and lifts us to dizzy heights exposing us to Mustang’s infamous winds. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>W</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">hipping caps off our heads, and blinding us in spiralling dust, it’s a
shame that we barely pause to admire the terrain. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Entering the ancient
trading post, we soon get lost in its maze of Tibetan-style mud houses with
tiny doors and windows<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">. </i>Twigs and
straw piled on roofs dry in the afternoon sun, and goat skull talismans dangle
from doorways.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Low-tunnel alleyways lead
to courtyards of prayer wheels and <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">chortens,</i>
and clanging pans to teahouse kitchens. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt;">Lunch
awaits--- watery <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">dal</i>, overcooked <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">bhat,</i> and mutilated greens devoured </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">under the gaze of a
smiling Dalai Lama hanging from the walls<span style="color: #c0504d; mso-themecolor: accent2;">. </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">As we walk past </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">the school that evening, children
suspend their game of volleyball to greet us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>‘Hi ya!’ they chant, in fake American accents. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">sit beside a little, old lady.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She would have been in her late teens when
the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Khampas</i>, freedom fighters from
Tibet, were staging raids across the border.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Although welcomed by the locals, the <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Khampa</i>
experience in Mustang was calamitous. There was little food, some got so
desperate they cooked and ate their shoes, many starved to death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By 1969 the resistance fizzled out and Nepal
shut the border. Tibet remains sealed, though illicit trade continues through a
practice of bribes, gifts and percentages. </span><span style="color: #ff6600; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #ff6600; font-size: 14pt;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD9VEX6suRqmcM5nDS9XKpOgrDHzkiJKggk7f5Qn3EvUQz1sNoeCTW03cOL4wgYQbcPJXY7PerKF5h4WHAoGwOpTmtjiKPGvjkSrG89mDhmqC7QIfip5wWjbFeuty3HQjcPjSGcOTZWkWk/s1024/01.+Yamdo+La%252C+Towards+Lunch-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="1024" height="268" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD9VEX6suRqmcM5nDS9XKpOgrDHzkiJKggk7f5Qn3EvUQz1sNoeCTW03cOL4wgYQbcPJXY7PerKF5h4WHAoGwOpTmtjiKPGvjkSrG89mDhmqC7QIfip5wWjbFeuty3HQjcPjSGcOTZWkWk/w640-h268/01.+Yamdo+La%252C+Towards+Lunch-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Yamdo La</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #ff6600; font-size: 14pt;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt;"></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">The<b> </b>next<b> </b>day we start
ascending the Passes or <i>Las, </i>each one opening onto progressively more
remote and beautiful valleys. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;">Yamdo La (13,200ft.),
not only is it the highest we climb on this trek, but the views into the next
valley are dramatically different from the past few days. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"> Leaving
behind cluttered skies, rugged slopes, darkened valleys, we crest the pass and squinting
in bright sunshine, gaze on a new world of rounded, caramel-brown hills rolling
all the way to the horizon under vacant blue skies. Nepal seems to halt at Yamdo La while Tibet
beckons. We spin like giddy dervishes
enjoying the contrasting views.</span></p><p></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #ff6600; font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">With one eye on the remarkable vistas, the
other scours constantly for food and rest. Spotted! </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">On a solitary
trail ribboning to infinity, a solitary teahouse. But distances are deceptive; via
steep and dangerous shortcuts its hours before we stumble into our lunch stop. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVf7jw8ViXTF4x5OkHmY3Et1dhyphenhyphen-BKD5MMljbL5sWHxwk70p61GYB1OoY-7rYhpSmWMFIn0PdcchjzARZvQtCfI3c5cUECJpP83VKHo9efFIg3dPcr9hVz-BoVjgqs8YymvZgys-83HJ8f/s1024/04.+Twilght%252C+settlement+of+Gelling-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1024" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVf7jw8ViXTF4x5OkHmY3Et1dhyphenhyphen-BKD5MMljbL5sWHxwk70p61GYB1OoY-7rYhpSmWMFIn0PdcchjzARZvQtCfI3c5cUECJpP83VKHo9efFIg3dPcr9hVz-BoVjgqs8YymvZgys-83HJ8f/w640-h424/04.+Twilght%252C+settlement+of+Gelling-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Twilight - settlement of Gelling</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Post-lunch another <i>La,</i>
but this one’s a quickie. Finally, by the orange glow of twilight, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">we wind
down to Gelling (11,800ft.). L</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;">ong shadows on the hills, diffused light falling over a broken wall,
shafts striking a blood-red monastery, I reach for my camera. Parking myself on a boulder I watch the sun
slip away, plunging the valley into darkness, the tip of Annapurna catching the
last light. </span><span style="color: red; font-size: 14pt;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: red; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsC2hcEdzU8FeT2Lt7IMgQuWaQViF7dYv2nHRFlPLlJnsf6yHJEXRBXi2c8S78hEOGhnJQ96xAmm-bamGOq7MwuN-nyOQj300_9EKge27mXzwoXuNrM2rC6MffJ_E0riUI6PWDvNQLY6p_/s1024/05.+Gami+for+apple+pie-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1024" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsC2hcEdzU8FeT2Lt7IMgQuWaQViF7dYv2nHRFlPLlJnsf6yHJEXRBXi2c8S78hEOGhnJQ96xAmm-bamGOq7MwuN-nyOQj300_9EKge27mXzwoXuNrM2rC6MffJ_E0riUI6PWDvNQLY6p_/w640-h424/05.+Gami+for+apple+pie-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gami for apple pie</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-US" style="color: red; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;">Next morning, the <i>Las</i> continue before we descend for </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">lunch</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;">to Gami, nestling at the foot
of a majestic rock face</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">. T</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt;">he Japanese fell in
love with this charming settlement, built a hospital, and introduced apple
farming. And yes, there’s Japanese-style apple strudel on the menu and we binge
as if we’ve never seen apples! </span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0290eiIPgkiG-JII5bVVWE1x0Uybvzdp40YM6WYHebFHkMNcSS5oVRLf0S8O-aZsOmieS0_oThabjkQ-Eoa5aJTRIj2wHpU9bA9WnFuTgawAMg77wkszco7Yx1i1qdinvLQ-ywqvqszu/s1024/07.+Red+Cliffs+of++Drakmar-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="554" data-original-width="1024" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir0290eiIPgkiG-JII5bVVWE1x0Uybvzdp40YM6WYHebFHkMNcSS5oVRLf0S8O-aZsOmieS0_oThabjkQ-Eoa5aJTRIj2wHpU9bA9WnFuTgawAMg77wkszco7Yx1i1qdinvLQ-ywqvqszu/w640-h346/07.+Red+Cliffs+of++Drakmar-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The red cliffs of Drakmar</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-themecolor: text1;">A perfect afternoon of honey sunshine follows as we climb past Nepal’s
longest <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mani</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wall</i> in</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;">to the next valley.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The trail is gentle, it’s </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-themecolor: text1;">eerily quiet, our
only companions, goats flooding down the slopes in a frenzy of tinkles.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;"> As we descend, colors deepen,</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;">from flamingo pink, to
earthy rust, and finally to an astonishing red. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are in a valley of soaring, blood-colored
cliffs pockmarked with 2000-year-old caves--- The Red Cliffs of Drakmar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>To add to the magic, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;">clouds scurry across
the sky, shifting shadows and reworking the landscape.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-themecolor: text1;">We halt in our tracks in utter amazement.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;">Playing with our cameras, taking groupies,
taking selfies, it’s hours </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-themecolor: text1;">before we tumble into
our forgettable lodge and devour unremarkable food.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">By the fifth day the landscape flattens</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are on a </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">treeless</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">path,</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">
en route to Ghar Gompa, Mustang’s </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">oldest and most sacred Buddhist monastery</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Legends swirl
around this structure, site of a fearsome battle between the 8<sup>th</sup>
century Indian Tantric, Guru Padmasambha and the demoness he vanquished.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He disemboweled her, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">unravelled her intestines where a 1000ft long <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">mani</i> <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">wall</i>
stands and poured her blood down the red cliffs of Drakmar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Over her heart he built Ghar Gompa and
established Buddhism in the valley.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="tab-stops: 70.9pt;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">The Gompa feels like a cave locked for centuries, pitch dark save for flickering
butter lamps and light from a skylight high above. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Along the walls are glass cases with dusty figures
wrapped in ripped silk scarves, at the end of the room is the seated
Padmasambha.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wall-to-ceiling
paintings damaged by neglect and moisture are reduced to smudges of color; here
a delicate hand, there a blue face, fangs and bulging eyes. The place is
strangely evocative<span style="color: red;"> </span>in the light of the dancing
lamps but as cold as a tomb, much better to be in the sun with the furry mascot
of <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">Ghar Gompa</i>. Full of doggy wisdom,
he sits on the top-most step, gazing at fluttering prayer flags, not caring a
hoot for trespassers. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;">The
next day, our final trek, the final La, our first views of Ame Pal’s fabled
city, we’re buoyant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;">The air is dry, we are treading on soft, fine sand at 13,000 ft. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;">We
hadn’t bargained for a</span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-themecolor: text1;"> </span><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-themecolor: text1;">5-hour march through a <i>desert</i>; no ups, no downs, no views, no
to-rest-boulders, no mid-morning tea… a long litany of complaints, but nothing
now matters. Snow peaks have come into view and I spot the fluttering flags
atop Lo La. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;">Lo La or Windy Pass lives up to its name, b</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-themecolor: text1;">linding us in spiralling clouds of dust, we can barely stand. Determined
to record the occasion,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;">my back to
the gale, I fumble with camera settings, then spin on my heels and </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-themecolor: text1;">through a dusty lens, and eyes squeezed half-shut, I search…</span><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"></span></span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_nM6-zn-_Uerg22tgblb_OWiiaFfV1mXACxs9FciR3heyg7WWnggadJvuQs7yDH-Y8tbIPOVXmP5A2z_VkU9HyQwWgLvOkqAKEfUbZHyT-bsLALafPdAz8-5rAcHOT-ZFe6ZtFOrDN2JQ/s1024/08.+1st+glimpse+of+Lo+Manthang%252C+Lo+La-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="622" data-original-width="1024" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_nM6-zn-_Uerg22tgblb_OWiiaFfV1mXACxs9FciR3heyg7WWnggadJvuQs7yDH-Y8tbIPOVXmP5A2z_VkU9HyQwWgLvOkqAKEfUbZHyT-bsLALafPdAz8-5rAcHOT-ZFe6ZtFOrDN2JQ/w640-h388/08.+1st+glimpse+of+Lo+Manthang%252C+Lo+La-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fitst glimpse of Lo Manthang from the Lho La</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"><br /> </span></span></span><p></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-themecolor: text1;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p> </o:p></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: "Times New Roman"; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;">…It’s a higgledy-piggledy,
puzzle of a landscape. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; text-indent: 0cm;">Lo
Manthang, her turrets barely visible, nestles at the bottom of a valley
surrounded by patterned, coloured hills, while above snow peaks command the
horizon. Had the conditions been more hospitable, we could have paused to
savour the moment, but all I can think of is an empty water bottle, my parched
throat and the howling winds. </span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">The road descends, meandering endlessly, round mound after mound, after
mound. Walls and turrets appear and reappear in mirage upon dusty mirage, but
the city eludes. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Hours later, squinting into the sockets of a suspended, centuries-old
yak skull, we knock at the gates of </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Ame Pal’s city of
pelf and piety.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Straddling the trade routes, Ame Pal’s markets teemed with heckling
merchants, and Ame Pal, shrewd cookie, taxed them exorbitantly and built his
fortified capital. Mud walls soaring 6mts. high, his palace, a 9-cornered
skyscraper, and monasteries of gilded Buddhas and floor-to-ceiling Mandalas
encrusted with gemstones. It is believed that over 2000 monks lived in his
‘City of Prayers’, their drums and chants echoing through the valley.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Markets? Prayers? We hear no drums, but enter a quadrangle lined with --
hold your breath -- Mahindra Boleros. Locals in cowboy gear, their ponies, with
tails bedecked in bows and ribbons crowd the courtyard, while monks strut their
stuff in dark glasses and swirling robes. An acrid smell of animal dung hangs
in the air as </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-font-kerning: 12.0pt;">cattle munch by the roadside and chickens
squawk between our legs. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: red; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Signboards</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> advertise cafes
and lodges, <i>Mustang Mystique</i>--- hold your breath again--- <i>Mona Lisa
Guest House.</i><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Whew, I’ll be damned,
Mahindra and Leonardo sharing a courtyard!<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Our lodge, <i>Mystique
Himalayan</i> and its menu is all we need.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We consume everything except <i>dal</i> <i>bhat</i>, sip tea from Donald
Duck cups, retire to enjoy a siesta, and spend the rest of the evening in
showers emptying the water tanks. In an orgy of soap and splashing, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I watch 7 days of
scum curl down the drain.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No wonder I’m
humming.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Then to bed and
dreaming…we have three days and four nights in Lo.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p align="center" class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">----------------------------<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoBodyText"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">I pull
the curtains aside, let the sunshine in, and get down to bag-sorting and settling
in.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt;"> <span lang="EN-GB"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Another quick shower, fresh and shinning, I
step out into a perfect Lo morning.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>25<sup>th</sup>
April 2015, what’s not to like today?</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">After a brief
tour of the town, we cram into a <i>Thangka</i> shop, the size of a broom
cupboard. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The artist, happy to
explain his handiwork, is deep in Buddhist<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>afterlife --- doom and damnation, a fiery hell, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">witches
roasting in their cauldrons … <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">the
conversation’s going swimmingly.</span><span style="color: red;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">At first, we hardly notice it---the
tinkle of brushes in their pots, the swinging of <i>tankhas</i> from their
hangings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: text1;">I’m half-amused, the ultimate Lo
experience, meeting a Lo witch? </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><i><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">Lobas</span></i></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: text1;"> believe their valleys are haunted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>H</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">ot headed demons, ghostly apparitions and evil spirits lurk round every
corner, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: text1;">unleashing
blizzards and storms, their little tricksters in the kitchen, curdle milk,
steal chickens, and drink the precious water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: text1;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: black; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-themecolor: text1;">But </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">s</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">omethings
amiss. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trembling persists.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">A</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"> low rumble reaches up from the belly of the mountains, </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">the ground begins to heave, the walls begin
to tilt, the dancing brushes tip over their cups, and we fly out of the
room.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Cambria; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Finally,
it’s over. In the deafening silence, we whisper, “That was an earthquake”.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzVgbIBuv4faHIV7_AzOkkRtaSgwB0egfClP3pTiaeA5y97b7Va1Q4f-CLb90XXPgZkkfUtBWBzbCAtYeL0LYor-g0VJcIxCsaJVNr3a9XqAXhIch4SPRi04LAdX0YfGpF_CuJa90YuQ3/s1024/14.+Lo+Manthang%252C+%2527Upper+Mustang+Express%2527-001.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="680" data-original-width="1024" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWzVgbIBuv4faHIV7_AzOkkRtaSgwB0egfClP3pTiaeA5y97b7Va1Q4f-CLb90XXPgZkkfUtBWBzbCAtYeL0LYor-g0VJcIxCsaJVNr3a9XqAXhIch4SPRi04LAdX0YfGpF_CuJa90YuQ3/w640-h424/14.+Lo+Manthang%252C+%2527Upper+Mustang+Express%2527-001.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Lo Manthang - The Upper Mustang Express</td></tr></tbody></table><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><br /></span><p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">In the
meantime, a very ill <i>fellow</i> <i>trekker</i>, stuck in a very empty lodge
is needing help.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sham our guide and Vikram, one of our porters, carry her down, Lo’s only doctor is called, and it’s suggested she
be moved immediately to lower altitudes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Our team leader pays an arm and a leg for a Bolero, “The Upper Mustang
Express”, and we flee with our <i>fellow trekker</i> attached to an oxygen
cylinder. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">It’s
grey, it’s drizzling and painfully slow as we manoeuvre round fallen
boulders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The mood is funereal, but our
driver seems unfazed. With film music renting the air, he’s enjoying the
swinging ride, singing and spitting with gay abandon. It didn’t help that he
looked 12 years old.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">By the
time we get to the steep passes, it’s almost dark, the rain has turned the
track into slush, the tyres don’t grip, and each elbow bend is a backward slide.
Finally, at Yamdo La, the “Express” gives up and we climb into a second
vehicle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After three such swaps we get
to Samar well past sundown. Thinking we had escaped from the jaws of death, I
sleep soundly, grateful an evil day had passed. How wrong I was!</span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoListParagraph"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify; text-justify: inter-ideograph;"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">Over breakfast, everyone’s
looking glumly into their porridge, a heavy silence hangs in the air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>And where are the porters? Sham, Vikram?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Oblivious to me, well past midnight the phones suddenly sprang to life
and news began flooding in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was
worse, far worse than we’d ever imagined. Kathmandu Valley was the epicentre.
The injured, the dead?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Crazy numbers
were flying around. Worst of all Sham received an SOS from home---his father and his home gone forever. The true horror of it all finally sinks
in.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Rushing
to relieve Sham we are on the road again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Jomsom is in panic. Pounded by aftershocks the town is camping on the
runway and our flights have been cancelled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Thankful for rooms and a meagre meal, we sleep fitfully, fully dressed with
our shoes on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">At the
crack of dawn, we are on the move again; another arm and a leg, for a 10-hour
journey on a rutted road, past some surreal views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the ground, devastation with uprooted
trees and pylons --- up in the sky, Dhaulagiri flashing her very best! </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Pokhara
is untouched but unnervingly quiet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Shops are open --- gems and carpets on display--- but the tourists have
fled. With nothing better to do, we spend 3 days, calling home, taking
obscenely long siestas, eating Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and waiting with
trepidation for our flight to Kathmandu.</span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Powerless, without
food or water, her air choked with dust and her priceless heritage in ruins,
noisy, boisterous Kathmandu has been defeated. So many lives lost, I can’t
bring myself to ask the dreaded question. My favourite pagoda in Durbar Square,
young couples used to run up her steps seeking privacy and great views, ‘Is it
still standing?’ ‘Rubble.’ <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Wasn’t I glad to
flee the country, get home to a house that wasn’t shaking, and a great mum, so
calm so composed so full of kisses.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Three
months later Mum passed away.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This diary
is a tribute to her encouragement to venture out and seek adventure among the
high peaks.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were a great team.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was the first to see the pictures, the
last to edit the diaries, and in between, there was natter, and chuckling over
cups of coffee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>‘Mustang is unfinished
busines, you should return’, she said. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: 0cm;"><!--[if !supportLists]--><span style="font-family: Symbol; font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;"><span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><!--[endif]--><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">I did. The following
year we were on the trail again.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
colours had changed as had the seasons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The skies were clearer, scattered patches of monsoon green were climbing
up the Passes, and the fields were ripe with harvest. </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;">Same lodge, same
room, same roommate, we’re back in Lo Manthang with a packed schedule.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Palace is too damaged to visit, but we
spend hours in Ame Pal’s 600-year-old <i>gompas</i>, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">examine the world’s finest
collection of <i>Mandalas</i> by the light of our cell phones,</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"> drive to the famous Chosar Caves, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">and finally,
surrounded by bubbling streams, golden meadows and the last of harvest, we trot
all morning on our farting ponies with a whistling pony man.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"> </span><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;">And
so, I exorcised the ghosts of 2015--- a sad tumultuous year with so much, so
cherished, gone forever.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 14pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size: 14pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-IN;"><a href="mailto:persis4@gmail.com">persis4@gmail.com</a> </span></p><p></p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com5Mustang, Nepal28.9985065 83.84730150.68827266382115582 48.6910515 57.308740336178843 119.0035515tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-64082737287953228032021-01-11T17:10:00.000+05:302021-01-11T17:10:45.388+05:30Kanha National Park | Safari Permits and Charges<p> </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI9xAaH_O8UF3pGoDYcq5OmeMY1zF2KX5JOxPv24RBimOvATX_VHPyOCYuIawiu8CO5QGlOLQ3kzVK7V97ez8HKT17mU_CfP8xVHVFw4_fCOmOEJdTU9Dz2j3ej8M8KS2mGPhdL6SP_zMs/s1621/IMG_1272.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1164" data-original-width="1621" height="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI9xAaH_O8UF3pGoDYcq5OmeMY1zF2KX5JOxPv24RBimOvATX_VHPyOCYuIawiu8CO5QGlOLQ3kzVK7V97ez8HKT17mU_CfP8xVHVFw4_fCOmOEJdTU9Dz2j3ej8M8KS2mGPhdL6SP_zMs/w640-h460/IMG_1272.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Kanha National Park Safaris</span></b></p><p>The updated safari charges and other rules for 2021 as on date (January 11th 2021) are given below:</p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Safari Permit bookings</span></b></p><p>All safaris except full day safaris can be booked on the official site <a href="https://forest.mponline.gov.in/">https://forest.mponline.gov.in/</a> . One has to register on tis site & after going to wild life section you need to fill details like name, age, gender, nationality, photo id proof numbers. For Indian nationals Aadhar card, passport, driving license, voter id etc are valid. For Non-Indians passport details & country is mandatory. Permits to enter the park must be booked on line prior to the date of visit. These permits get exhausted quickly so they should be booked well in advance. We had booked one month ahead. The cost of the permit of the full Gypsy (maximum six persons plus driver plus guide) is Rs 1550/-. </p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Zones </span></b></p><p>There are four core area zones in Kanha – Kanha, Kisli, Mukki and Sarhi. There are also four buffer zones Khatia, Khapa, Sijora & Phen. There are two entry gates for all these zones Khatia and Mukki. The core areas are in great demand as sightings are usually better in the core area though tigers have been regularly seen in the buffer areas. The vehicles permitted in each zone are given in the screenshot below.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqARhPKjQnUWIhQaxNSRe8judiufKCoIdNz4bXTQcgMm-3lff2q7sHQiQit7lCfFLVFVUFQzgn3t7B4Uwr_rOGwoRInJI0Xp94KHUj5w-v5XsZ8ONMJstYrRbCnEISeB-833Acw3S7QGY/s1301/kanha+carrying+capacity.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="488" data-original-width="1301" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZqARhPKjQnUWIhQaxNSRe8judiufKCoIdNz4bXTQcgMm-3lff2q7sHQiQit7lCfFLVFVUFQzgn3t7B4Uwr_rOGwoRInJI0Xp94KHUj5w-v5XsZ8ONMJstYrRbCnEISeB-833Acw3S7QGY/w640-h240/kanha+carrying+capacity.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><div><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Cost of Jeeps</span></b></div><div>The cost of hiring a jeep (gypsy) and driver at the park gates is Rs 2500/- per safari and usually from the hotels/lodges depending on the distance from the gate is around Rs 3000/- per safari. A maximum of six guests are allowed in each jeep plus guide and driver.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5KRW_-yMu41QeDiHPzvex9O5DgKELUQ-R3FecYrCdnnckIt1EZRRZcl-Aotf5nh-TKffVSZEh9rhgRhNPKg056qLEZP0rHqjzJXa_InGizZK48JCopDK1seLlYEMONtdg_lvdjjSH1w8/s1632/IMG_1288.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1224" data-original-width="1632" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5KRW_-yMu41QeDiHPzvex9O5DgKELUQ-R3FecYrCdnnckIt1EZRRZcl-Aotf5nh-TKffVSZEh9rhgRhNPKg056qLEZP0rHqjzJXa_InGizZK48JCopDK1seLlYEMONtdg_lvdjjSH1w8/w640-h480/IMG_1288.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Guide Fees</span></b></div><div>The forest department provides a guide with each jeep – cost of the guide is Rs 600 per safari. </div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Single seat safari bookings</b></span></div><div>It is also possible to book single seat safaris on line – the cost for this is Rs 260 per person excluding jeep cost and guide. </div><div><br /></div><div><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">Khatia Night Safari at Kanha</span></b></div><div>Night Safari is organised at Khatia Zone in the buffer. The ride is in an open jeep from 7 pm to 10pm – only three vehicles are allowed and booking is on first come first serve basis one day before the safari. The cost of the full vehicle, permit, guide is presently around Rs 5000/- per night safari for six guests.</div><div><br /></div><div><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Full Day Safari</b></span></div><div>There is a provision for booking a full day safari at Kanha covering all the zones without restriction – this is often used by photographers and naturalists – there are six permitted in a jeep along with guide and driver. Charges are not quoted on the MP Tourism web site but can be are very high. Permission needs to be taken from the Field Director for the full day safaris.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>For photographs from Kanha please do visit -</div><div> <a href="https://www.sujoydas.com/Indian-Wildlife/Kanha-National-Park-India/">https://www.sujoydas.com/Indian-Wildlife/Kanha-National-Park-India/</a> </div><div><br /></div>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com1Kanha, Madhya Pradesh 481111, India22.2815606 80.6181218-6.0286732361788467 45.4618718 50.591794436178844 115.7743718tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-58723550025133683892020-11-24T16:59:00.006+05:302021-02-10T19:42:38.341+05:30Sikkim | Phoktey Dara Trek November 2020 with South Col Expeditions<p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4ub8u0dSDUDiBxgZoA1xUZmyR3CFUHFHDLh0oiiLiwwsFrpAOK7UVWe4s_Z-7HAK1m8HAdonFtXp7-t81I22tiaJAMewFGJtIAsHlX1ARIAgeCfzp283bmO21CcfnAnWH7dvwL_eCN6J/s1500/IMG_0813-001.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="646" data-original-width="1500" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm4ub8u0dSDUDiBxgZoA1xUZmyR3CFUHFHDLh0oiiLiwwsFrpAOK7UVWe4s_Z-7HAK1m8HAdonFtXp7-t81I22tiaJAMewFGJtIAsHlX1ARIAgeCfzp283bmO21CcfnAnWH7dvwL_eCN6J/w640-h276/IMG_0813-001.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kangchenjunga range from Rinchinpong/Kaluk West Sikkim <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> <b>The Chiwabhanjan Phoktey Dara Trek October 30th to November 8th 2020</b><p></p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">October 30th 2020</span></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYEBAzyMA6v9nQF0YQEftG4ytMKUlquDKCpWbCETkK7IsWSxPKMfAX05e75xPcLFDjwzR8tzTK3Ifl-h88z3dgX6Vh_A7AphVP9tE0zT82d9v6GtOJonSncBWpqbu37AV5vRSX-1OIlWk/s1600/IMG_0802.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlYEBAzyMA6v9nQF0YQEftG4ytMKUlquDKCpWbCETkK7IsWSxPKMfAX05e75xPcLFDjwzR8tzTK3Ifl-h88z3dgX6Vh_A7AphVP9tE0zT82d9v6GtOJonSncBWpqbu37AV5vRSX-1OIlWk/w640-h480/IMG_0802.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>After more than ten months since our last trek in December 2019, a South Col Expeditions team took a leap of faith and with proper protection and sanitization against covid 19 decided to do a small trek route in West Sikkim. The route popularly known as Phoktey Dara offers a dress circle view of Kangchenjunga and three other 8000 metre peaks Everest, Lhotse and Makalu. The route straddles the border of India and Nepal. After navigating the airports of Calcutta and Bagdogra with double masks, shields and sanitisers, we started around 1.40 pm in the afternoon from Bagdogra airport. The city traffic was heavy and we got to Sevoke and the Coronation bridge in about an hour. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL4a9gmRBc6Rh53QRW9KdFMYqBXqvIB3H92NSBMdKkh4T7_O6YMjWNn-hRWZyEAAGmuOHas_4XO4_crAe77x3MQJ3nsY60mA-5py4TclKuKJKq0zz1D8WwjkY6lGqVXWaKVgswBSUSjqab/s1500/IMG_0804.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL4a9gmRBc6Rh53QRW9KdFMYqBXqvIB3H92NSBMdKkh4T7_O6YMjWNn-hRWZyEAAGmuOHas_4XO4_crAe77x3MQJ3nsY60mA-5py4TclKuKJKq0zz1D8WwjkY6lGqVXWaKVgswBSUSjqab/w640-h480/IMG_0804.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p> Soon the Teesta was next to us but the Teesta dam project had changed the entire complexion of the river. It was now a silent reservoir, eerie and still. Nothing moved nothing stirred. There were no rapids no noise of the river rushing down from the high glaciers making its way to the plains of Bengal. The environmental degradation due to the Teesta project will definitely have a lost lasting impact on this region and unfortunately we could not prevent it. Soon after Rambi Bazar we entered the landslide zone and the road was ravaged after the monsoon. Going was slow and traffic also heavy. Finally around 3.50 pm we entered Teesta Bazar and crossed the bridge and headed to Melli passing the Kalimpong turn off. We crossed the Melli bridge in ten minutes and showed our Sikkim Tourist registration cards at the check post. There was no other covid related checking like temperature or any other self declaration. Sikkim does not require any covid negative certificate at present. The road from Melli to Jorethang which used to be a beautiful drive along the Rangeet has also been badly damaged by landslides- it took us an hour to reach Jorethang around 5.10 pm and we decided to stop by the Legship bridge for a quick meal for of delicious momos and soup. We left Joretang at 5.30 pm in the dark and headed up to Reshi - on our right higher up we could see the lights of Namchi. Sikkim has a very strong electrification programme and I believe almost all villages big or small have now been given electricity. Around 7 pm we finally entered Rinchinpong and were greeted by an incredible sight - it was full moon night Lakshmi Purnima and the moon was shining bright and clear on the Kangchenjunga range from our lodge room - the Ghonday Resort. In front were the twin towns of Gayzing and Pelling brightly illuminated with flickering lights and the headlamps of the passing jeeps. It was an amazing view and the clarity after the monsoon was also incredible.</p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Bagdogra to Melli 2 hours 25 min; Melli to Jorethang 1 hour; Jorethang to Rinchinpong/ Kaluk 1 hour 30 min.</b></span></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">31st October 2020</span></b> - Rest day at Kaluk</p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>1st November 2020 - Uttarey to Chitrey</b></span></p><p><span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #2b00fe; text-align: center;"><span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJHDeXCsvdWqvu4z6gYnN7bOQIIsoXlTK7g3fx1g6cFrBY0NxJe7ENBZxAlohzpgx8tNQts9LZgkeWGvbdZDQ6xVal1Nl_iCnnZcScsepZVWk4iqcWPIzIW_M2HEJt30qYhQ2s1Z0G4K2/s1500/IMG_0845.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAJHDeXCsvdWqvu4z6gYnN7bOQIIsoXlTK7g3fx1g6cFrBY0NxJe7ENBZxAlohzpgx8tNQts9LZgkeWGvbdZDQ6xVal1Nl_iCnnZcScsepZVWk4iqcWPIzIW_M2HEJt30qYhQ2s1Z0G4K2/w640-h480/IMG_0845.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></div><span><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #2b00fe; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwaqguMhgrn13GyYs21AeMZyX-09TvNngr_geO51zc1yVujfPATwj5Gley-vJZrz1APvRJ7JMx9MuOLIwmF8IgGWV8QQNlMflVe3SqrNm0MsRg9w2npA_qyuzYg2a2mQixFEf6YffW4d1/s1500/IMG_0844.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwaqguMhgrn13GyYs21AeMZyX-09TvNngr_geO51zc1yVujfPATwj5Gley-vJZrz1APvRJ7JMx9MuOLIwmF8IgGWV8QQNlMflVe3SqrNm0MsRg9w2npA_qyuzYg2a2mQixFEf6YffW4d1/w640-h480/IMG_0844.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: #2b00fe; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwY5OAOq-M23QGsftOaVtNPp_wa0_lPn8sQn_A8KD5qBWdTHb3fBdpld5e2h0z8np_BowFBlIitf6VWGOFf8Z4UlxTW5q792P69Yq4-jqdqcyLQ3V_85ftZ8ZhYD2CjVVk7pp0f4rgb7pw/s1500/IMG_0864.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="706" data-original-width="1500" height="302" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwY5OAOq-M23QGsftOaVtNPp_wa0_lPn8sQn_A8KD5qBWdTHb3fBdpld5e2h0z8np_BowFBlIitf6VWGOFf8Z4UlxTW5q792P69Yq4-jqdqcyLQ3V_85ftZ8ZhYD2CjVVk7pp0f4rgb7pw/w640-h302/IMG_0864.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p style="color: #2b00fe;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><br /></span></p>We left Kaluk at around 8 am on another fine crystal clear autumn morning with all the peaks visible. Passing Dentam we saw the famous Sikkim Alpine Cheese factory which we plan to visit on our way back - we reached Uttarey around 9 am - we went to the Police Station to show our permits and were told that we needed three passport photos - we managed to get the photos taken in a shop across the Police Station. Finally at around 10 am we were off. We followed the road pass the Police Station for about 20 minutes and then passed a rainbow trout hatchery. Soon after this there is a bridge and before the bridge on the left side is a short cut trail into the forest. This is the trail you must take to Chitrey do not continue on the main road. The trail was damp and the stones moss covered - we saw a beautiful pink orchid clinging to a tree with moss laden branches - it was a typical Sikkim forest. Within 10 minutes you come to another bridge with prayer flags - do not cross that bridge continue along the trail which climbs steadily. In about 75 minutes you cross another wooden bridge and soon after reach the gates of the Barsey Rhododendron Sanctuary. The Airtel 4G signal begins to get weaker from here and eventually in an hour or so fades away. From here the trail climbed steadily through a dark forest without any sun reaching the forest floor - in about 90 minutes from the gate you cross another bridge - just before this is the only sunny patch on this section of the trail and we stopped for lunch here in the sun. The trail then makes a steep climb for about 30 minutes and reaches a sign which says Sanctuary Gate 2000 metres - I presume it refers to the lower gate which we passed. In another 30 minutes the trail levels off and enters a clearing with a large SSB para military camp which is in fact Chitrey 2668 metres. The camping site is above the SSB camp.</span><p></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Uttarey to Barsey Rhododendron Gate 1 hr 30 min Gate to Bridge for lunch 1 hr 30 min Bridge to Chitrey 1 hr to 1 hr 15 min.</b></span></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Uttarey 1924 metres Chitrey 2668 metres 27 16 9N 88 2 26 E metres average time 4 hours distance 7.7 km</b></span></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>2nd November 2020 Chitrey to Chiwabhanjan to Kalijhar</b></span></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9gHLkuVx4I3KfGRpLAfMnfIY_LOyb7uiF5W9yj0fZ-G-a5Ve_ulFFmkOaVOrfR9QHJWk4058x41BYl8W6megvs16aZodPtwUlEMywUovtJGhguEW2SPJLG4nLeD4MEN1CTnWGUECaYtad/s1136/IMG_0901.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="1136" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9gHLkuVx4I3KfGRpLAfMnfIY_LOyb7uiF5W9yj0fZ-G-a5Ve_ulFFmkOaVOrfR9QHJWk4058x41BYl8W6megvs16aZodPtwUlEMywUovtJGhguEW2SPJLG4nLeD4MEN1CTnWGUECaYtad/w640-h360/IMG_0901.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtF3WNusiGkR4WThxP0rVBzS7x9L8XxggYujbOc00rmQ-sZQyrkbKwQX209B0BEk0lKbhlwmAfh4ZU9l74I4-2oyzFqTTLJpC-y4UNG1Ul7VuZhSmj4gM2RsQhftE5GJ1ENawcTxtvzJkC/s1136/IMG_0902.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="1136" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtF3WNusiGkR4WThxP0rVBzS7x9L8XxggYujbOc00rmQ-sZQyrkbKwQX209B0BEk0lKbhlwmAfh4ZU9l74I4-2oyzFqTTLJpC-y4UNG1Ul7VuZhSmj4gM2RsQhftE5GJ1ENawcTxtvzJkC/w640-h360/IMG_0902.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Peakfinder - mountains from Phoktey Dara <br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CPYjn7ac8sVIyznpc25Y2ZzcPWRWLq6WR55w7abcV_RypyW19LeBODH7LGh6Qb1xroCxdV6Mk2GODv78mKiViZwhkHtJblkk-00VE5pObqHhoeUIZFW6DKMR9jxsW3HB_9gNZPgolp5f/s1500/IMG_0905.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4CPYjn7ac8sVIyznpc25Y2ZzcPWRWLq6WR55w7abcV_RypyW19LeBODH7LGh6Qb1xroCxdV6Mk2GODv78mKiViZwhkHtJblkk-00VE5pObqHhoeUIZFW6DKMR9jxsW3HB_9gNZPgolp5f/w640-h480/IMG_0905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></span><p></p><p>It was a sunny morning at Chitrey and luckily the sun hit our tents soon after 6 am so we warmed up in no time. We had breakfast in the sun and then left around 8.30 am for Chiwabhanjan. The climb to Chiwabhanjan is relentless- it goes up stone steps with little relief. In about 30 minutes we reached a spot from where we could see the SSB camp of Chitrey below and this spot also has an Airtel 4G signal. The climb continues up the steps till Chiwabhanjan is reached in around 1 hr 45 min to 2 hours - the altitude is around 3135 metres. We had to show our permits at the Police Checkpost and they asked for another set of passports photos so do carry at least three passport photos with you. The weather unfortunately had started to pack up when we left Chiwabhanjan with clouds rolling up the valley and the wind was also picking up. The trail was travelled south east below the SSB camp skirting the hill and soon we came across the Nepal Police Post with the Nepal flag flying - it was a much easier walk skirting the hillside with mild ups and downs passing through a beautiful rhododendron forest - I spotted the rhododendron Dalhousie not that common in Sikkim and immortalized in Hooker’s Himalayan Journals. This part of the trail would be a riot of colour in the spring late March to mid April when rhododendrons of different colours would be in bloom. One hour from Chiwabhanjan there is a trail junction - do not take the smaller trail going uphill but continue on the level trail going straight - the rhododendron forest continues far below to the west you can see a new road which is trying to link Uttarey to Chiwabhanjan. In about 30 minutes you reach another trail junction which was a sunny pleasant spot where we stopped for lunch - again here take the larger uphill trail don't follow the smaller trail on the left. If you look up here on the right you can see a hill top that is Phoktey Dara. Follow the uphill trail for about 30-40 minutes to reach the camp site of Kalijhar 3462 metres. Unfortunately that afternoon and evening the wind had picked up and there was white out conditions at our camp - we could not see any views and we spent the afternoon in our tent reading and staying warm hoping for a clear morning tomorrow- while we were setting up out tents at Kalijhar we suddenly spotted a Nepal Police patrol making a round of the area - they were within Indian territory which apparently is quite common for both sides while they patrol the border.</p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Chitrey to Chiwabhanjan 3135 metres 27 16 15 N 88 1 54 E 1 hr 45 min to 2 hrs - 2 km Chiwabhanjan to Kalijhar 3462 metres 27 14 57 N 88 2 6 E 2 hr 30 min 3 km</b></span></p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">November 3rd 2020</span></b></p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMiwn8cKTSpKni0H458OubU6d8bpBJTzEXgfNKu0ZZfgXfrD56vDEUsTVVFoq0qw9IJ9qqIW3auWmA2_9K1UT-BgbyoYNX9PH3_LZozvSErnIaXVnbRW8rsGClhV1QOkoui0aqw5wHMyb/s1500/IMG_0916.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpMiwn8cKTSpKni0H458OubU6d8bpBJTzEXgfNKu0ZZfgXfrD56vDEUsTVVFoq0qw9IJ9qqIW3auWmA2_9K1UT-BgbyoYNX9PH3_LZozvSErnIaXVnbRW8rsGClhV1QOkoui0aqw5wHMyb/w640-h480/IMG_0916.JPG" width="640" /></a></b></div><b><br /><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><br /></span></b><p></p><p>The night was one without any sleep - a storm with high wind speeds raged over Kalijhar - the tent poles were bending and straightening up with the wind and the incessant roar of the wind was most difficult and frightening at times. I got up a number of times to put rocks on the sides to anchor the tent and the fly sheet better - luckily we survived the night and the tent lasted the storm. Both our dining tent and toilet tent had collapsed in the storm. The morning was clear with the wind having come down a bit and across the valley from us was the Kangchenjunga range in all its glory. We decided to walk up to Phoktey Dara a viewpoint above Kalijar to see both Kangchenjunga and the Nepal peaks. The walk took 40 minutes and we saw the Kanchenjunga view which is similar to the one from Sandakphu but closer. Further to the west we could look into the valleys of Nepal while higher up the peaks of Makalu, Lhotse, Chamlang and Baruntse were visible. It was earlier mentioned that Everest could be seen from here but it was hidden behind the bulk of Makalu. We had planned to spend a rest day at Kalijhar but when we returned back to camp the wind was still raging and we decided to have breakfast and head down to Thulo Dhap for the night. We left Kalijhar a little after 11 am and the trail continued to skirt the hillside - far below we could see another SSB camp and looking back we could see Chiwabhanjan. The first part of this trail is beautiful with the Kangchenjunga range right across the valley. In about 30 minutes the trail leaves the ridge and plummets down into the valley through rhododendron forests. In about 45 minutes of leaving Kalijhar you reach a pleasant clearing in the forest which can serve as a rest spot. After this the trail continues a relentless descent through the forest reaching the camp site of Thulo Dhap in a meadow with a stream running near the camp in about 2 hours from Kalijhar.</p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Kalijhar to Phoktey Dara 3610 metres 27 14 59 N 88 1 51 E 40 min up 25 min down Kalijhar to Thulo Dhap 2893 metres 27 14 52 N 88 3 11 E 2 hrs 3.5 km</b></span></p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>November 4th 2020</b></span></p><p><span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span><span style="text-align: left;">The morning at Thulo Dhap was beautiful and clear with the mountains visible. We had planned a late start as we had a short day - it was also still with no wind a great change after the stormy night at Kalijhar. We left Thulo Dhap at around 9.25 am after pancakes and cheese omelettes for breakfast - the trail crosses the broad meadow where rhododendron bushes have been systematically planted for afforestation. It then begins a short steep climb through a forest for 20 minutes and reaches a sign saying Thulodhap 500 metres meant for Trekkers coming the other way - the trail then eases up and passes through a section with ferns and bamboo forest - the train then meanders through ups and downs before dropping sharply to a clearing in one hour from Thulodhap which is Hangeypani which does not have a mountain view.</span></span></div><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2sJ7rA8KqdjDckWDEinb7yI7FgFXub2pBpSODJv8EBSWXspC2AYjBlnuyOSI-EqJiVyXZS6FFOg7T6TZg01XQ7NfE3QnnpiteFQARkmeU-W0vxM3VA-Ki8gujCcyX3P1mZzKGFJbx9HU/s1500/IMG_0941.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1125" data-original-width="1500" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc2sJ7rA8KqdjDckWDEinb7yI7FgFXub2pBpSODJv8EBSWXspC2AYjBlnuyOSI-EqJiVyXZS6FFOg7T6TZg01XQ7NfE3QnnpiteFQARkmeU-W0vxM3VA-Ki8gujCcyX3P1mZzKGFJbx9HU/w640-h480/IMG_0941.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><span><br /></span><p></p><p>We left Hangeypani at around 10 30 am - the trail climb for about 2 minutes to a small clearing with a chautara and then drops down for 15 minutes through a rhododendron and bamboo forest - it then levels out through gentle ups and downs and in about 45-50 minutes reaches another clearing with the view of the mountains behind which is Achaley 2876 metres.</p><p>From Achaley we decided to go further down and crossing the meadow we found on the right a small trail which goes onto Jorbutey and Barsey- if you are going to Uttarey take the straight trail in front. The trail now begins a steep drop through the forest losing altitude very rapidly and finally in an hour or so from Achaley it reaches a small meadow with a water source which is called Uttarpani where we decided to stop in the bright Autumn sunshine 2688 metres - 188 metres below Achaley and a very pleasant spot for a half rest day.</p><p><span style="color: #2b00fe;"><b>Thulo Dhap to Hangeypani 2860 metres 27 14 46 N 88 3 44 E 50 min to 1 hour 1.5 km Hangeypani to Achaley 2876 metres 27 14 46 N 88 4 23 E 50 min 1.5 km Achaley to Uttarpani 2688 metres 27 15 2 N 88 4 41 E 1.5 km</b></span></p><p><b style="color: #2b00fe;">November 5 2020 Uttarpani to Uttarey 1974 metres</b></p><p>It was a very cold and damp night at Utttarpani - perhaps because it was in the forest there was condensation on the tent and this resulted in the inner walls getting damp and our sleeping bags were also damp. When we woke up in the morning the outside tent walls had frozen so the temperatures had dropped below freezing. We could not dry the tent as we wanted to leave and it was packed in a damp condition. The sun came up thankfully and warmed us and we left around 8 40 am after breakfast. Like the previous day the trail continued to descend rapidly through the forest - the early morning backlight was spectacular illuminating the ferns, lichens, lianas and leaves in a translucent light. In about 75 minutes we reached a chautara on the left side of the trail and soon after that we reached a trail junction. The left hand trail is a direct short cut route which comes to Uttarey in about an hour whereas the right hand trail goes to the Hillary Tenzing Memorial Park and then reaches Uttarey walking through a scenic village route. We took the right hand path as we wanted to see the Park which had two huge gold statues of Tenzing and Hillary. From the Park we walked downhill through some very scenic village houses with corn drying in the sun marigold blossoms and white prayer flags fluttering in the sunshine. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVTFgb7ZB30BdNGANqdvY1iRqjfJLFslKPTuhEjZMkRmZGUx3YehYICebIq-NO_VrviZnuOHUmIfqGmTThttHFOd0leOs7qSmQKJMdE9jcIXhYuSzWxkfslGvz7FLNBQN2-hjo0wR1e6cE/s1500/IMG_0994.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1125" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVTFgb7ZB30BdNGANqdvY1iRqjfJLFslKPTuhEjZMkRmZGUx3YehYICebIq-NO_VrviZnuOHUmIfqGmTThttHFOd0leOs7qSmQKJMdE9jcIXhYuSzWxkfslGvz7FLNBQN2-hjo0wR1e6cE/w480-h640/IMG_0994.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br /><p>Uttarpani to Hillary Tenzing Park 2 hrs 20 min Hillary Tenzing Park to Uttarey 1 hr 30 min</p><p><b><span style="color: #2b00fe;">NOTE </span></b></p><p>As we had a number of extra days we took short walks every day but the route can be easily done in four days as under:</p><p> Day 1 Uttarey to Chitrey; Day 2 Chirtrey to Kalijhar; Day 3 Kalijhar to Acchaley and finally Day 4 Acchaley to Uttarey. </p><p>It is possibly easier to walk in the direction mentioned above from Uttarey as other than the steep Chitrey to Chiwabhanjan section there is no major uphill on this route.</p><p>For more information on our treks and tours do visit <a href="http://www.southcol.com.">www.southcol.com.</a></p><p>For photographs from the Himalayas do visit <a href="http://www.sujoydas.com">www.sujoydas.com</a> </p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com2Sikkim, India27.5329718 88.5122178-2.533160471370369 53.3559678 57.599104071370363 123.6684678tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-72276957239915272672020-10-14T10:23:00.003+05:302020-10-14T10:27:07.953+05:30Nepal Trekking | Open and Closed regions Autumn 2020<p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib55c-ma712IsslnDT4tFqTIqRkiSyUvyxHFmXI9T2o8QQ1CgpShQbxiKywE1-SVgHvIC3CrVgDUcx6b2MD1MTxacNLjpvqqybrnhXr8BYOjFJVsG9J-AMDPs9QSFPGN_MccWlI93vkxDM/s1250/IMG_2614.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="938" data-original-width="1250" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib55c-ma712IsslnDT4tFqTIqRkiSyUvyxHFmXI9T2o8QQ1CgpShQbxiKywE1-SVgHvIC3CrVgDUcx6b2MD1MTxacNLjpvqqybrnhXr8BYOjFJVsG9J-AMDPs9QSFPGN_MccWlI93vkxDM/w640-h480/IMG_2614.JPG" width="640" /></a></p><br /><p>Important information for all those who plan to trek in Nepal this autumn - please see below what is open and closed.</p><p>Please note that this information is collected from October 5th to 10th 2020 and can change at any time. Nepal rules can also change - there is a proposal as on date to allow tourists only from mid November 2020 and not October 17th 2020 - it is yet to be confirmed by the Government.</p><p>Other rules like PCR negative test 24 hours before any other restrictions like rapid antigen test on arrival is to be followed.</p><p>1. Tsho Rolpa -> No trekking and outsiders are allowed</p><p>contact -> Naa view point hotel 9843813119 / 9840531500</p><p>2. Everest Region -> Allowed, required PCR Negative result report required of no longer than 72 hours</p><p>3. Manang / Tilicho -> not allowed</p><p>Contact -> Hotel Yak and Resturant (Manang)9841461082, Khangsarkang hotel 9843172015</p><p>4. Gosaikunda -> Allowed</p><p>Contact -> Deurali Hotel 9849434107, Hotel yak n nak In chandanbari : 9741203099</p><p>5. Mustang -> Not Allowed</p><p>Majestic mustang "hotel north pole" 981-3727397</p><p>6. Timbung Pokhari Trek-> Allowed</p><p>facebook page "Timbung Pokhari -Trek Divine" for more informatio</p><p>7. Sikles Trek-> Trekking and outsiders are not Allowed</p><p>Contact -> Namaste Guest House</p><p>8. Annapurna Base Camp Trek -> Not Allowed</p><p>Contact -> Real Chhomrong: 9846359659</p><p>9. Mardi Himal Trek -> Allowed</p><p>Contact -> Hotel Fishtail And Restaurant (High Camp) 9856014765, Hotel Green View And Restaurant 98065369</p><p>10. Dolpo Phoksundo Trek -> Trekking is Allowed with PCR Negative Report, documents from ward office and permit from NP</p><p>Contact -> Tashi Homestay, 9848304204 Tashi Lama, Ringmo</p><p>11. Mundhum Trail Trek -> Allowed</p><p>12. Panchpokhari Trek -> Allowed</p><p>Contact -> Resham Tamang 9741337147 Ngima chhiring Tamang 9843497149</p><p>13. Poonhill Trek -> Not Allowed</p><p>Contact -> Hotel Old Village Inn 9856047031, Kamala Lodge and Restaurant – 977-9846646349</p><p>14. Helambu, Ama Yangri -> Not Allowed from Tarkhegyang side</p><p>15. Langtang -> Allowed, required pcr report</p>Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7932613559197877044.post-76147017167642786622020-08-29T17:23:00.000+05:302020-08-30T11:02:44.846+05:30Green Lakes Trek Zemu Valley | Sikkim<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8woZty-roagD1mr0D4O9YUX8QczI-uJI6wIFqKtGzl7yNmKRo3x2KVgzfNlzu8f5PUlMSwWVYKVmtb2v8VL3klfCp4QDkDI491BRu5DUZSpS_18JrL_nYoDQlP9vOZbf-bnYSc9XA7bP/s1600/Zemu-Gletscher+4570+zum+Siniolchu+%252B+Kangchenjunga.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1504" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8woZty-roagD1mr0D4O9YUX8QczI-uJI6wIFqKtGzl7yNmKRo3x2KVgzfNlzu8f5PUlMSwWVYKVmtb2v8VL3klfCp4QDkDI491BRu5DUZSpS_18JrL_nYoDQlP9vOZbf-bnYSc9XA7bP/s640/Zemu-Gletscher+4570+zum+Siniolchu+%252B+Kangchenjunga.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo from the Zemu Valley with the peaks courtesy www.himalayan-info.org</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><span style="font-family: inherit;">The north east base camp of Kangchenjunga in the Zemu Valley has been "out of bounds" due a rigid permit system imposed by the Government of India and Sikkim. However, if you can manage the hassles associated with getting the permits then it is one of the most rewarding walks in the Himalaya. <a href="http://www.southcol.com/">South Col</a> has trekked this route twice the last time in October 2014. The details of the route are below:</span></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">October 27<sup>th</sup>
2014 Gangtok to Lachen 2750 metres 6-7 hours<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">We left Gangtok on a sunny autumn morning with Kangchenjunga
floating in the clouds. The road followed the North Sikkim highway and we
followed the valley of the Teesta river all the way to Chungthang where the
permits were checked. Travelling along this road I thought of the early
pioneers like Paul Bauer, Douglas Freshfield, and Vittorio Sella who has walked
along Teesta valley on their way to Lachen. We stayed the night at the very
luxurious and comfortable Apple Orchard Hotel. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">October 28<sup>th</sup>
2014 - Drive Lachen to Zema and then trek Zema to Tallem 3250 metres <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>4½ hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The morning was cold and
cloudy and the group had breakfast at Apple Orchard at 8 AM and left by 9.30
AM. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was a problem with one of our
vehicles so we walked part of the way until Zema. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There was another problem at Zema about the
weight of porter loads but this was also sorted out. We left Zema at 10.30 AM
after receiving Khadas for our full group. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
trail went down from Zema to the river and there were a lot of landslides to be
crossed on the trail in the first two hours – the upper trail has been damaged
by landslides and the current lower trail follows the Zemu Chu river. In many
sections there is no trail and the path requires clambering from boulder to
boulder using both hands. There is a steep section like a chimney which needs
to be climbed up with cascading water spraying the trekker from a nearby
waterfall. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We stopped for lunch around
1.20 PM in a clearing near the river. There is a proper trail after lunch which
climbs above the Zemu Chu through some very pleasant forest of ferns and
rhododendrons. Just before the camp site of Tallem, the trail passes through a
large meadow which at this season had plenty of dried flowers. It would have
been a spectacular site in summer. Tallem was reached around 3 PM – the walk
took 4½ hours with a half hour lunch stop. The weather remained cloudy in the
evening with low mist covering the tree tops.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">October 29<sup>th</sup>
2014 – Tallem to Jakthang 3663 metres 3 - 3½ hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">It drizzled at night and we saw snow on all the ridges above Tallem.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had breakfast at 7.30 AM and left Tallem
around 8 AM. Ten minutes out of Tallem was the bridge which had been repaired
by funds from Khangri and South Col.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
shot a video on the bridge with trekkers crossing as well as lots of photos. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then passed through a beautiful meadow with
rhododendrons forests on the hills above and followed the Zemu Chu. About an
hour out of Tallem the path left the river and began to climb into the forest.
Ferns, moss, lichen covered the forest floor damp and dripping in the clinging mist
while rhododendrons flanked both sides of the path. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The whole valley must be riot of colour in the
summer months of May and June. The climb continued for about an hour until it
reached a saddle from when the trail dropped for about half an hour and crossed
small streams. The trail then leveled off and entered the ruined log hut of
Jakthang by 11 AM. The weather had broken in the last half hour of the walk and
it started snowing at Jakthang. It snowed for about three hours until 2 0pm or
so. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My North Face tent was carried by a
porter who had not covered it in plastic. We put up the wet tent but the floor
was wet as well and I shifted into Ajmal’s tent as I was worried about the sleeping
bag getting wet. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The weather has been
bad last 2 days more like the monsoon with lower temperatures and snow most
unusual for late October. Hopefully the weather will clear up tomorrow after
all the snow.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">October 30<sup>th</sup>
2014 – Jakthang to Yabuk 4004 metres 4½ to 5½ hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The morning was clear and the sun hit Jakthang around 7.40 AM. I
managed to dry my tent and left Jakthang around 8.40 AM. The path initially
followed the Zema Chu and climbed for about 20 minutes when it reached a small
saddle – a route on the right goes from here to Muguthang via the Theu La which
looks like the main trail – we took the left hand trail and descended to a
stone bridge. Do not take the right trail as that climbs up relentlessly
towards Theu La. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>From the stone bridge
the trail travels through the rhododendron forests along a well defined if over
grown footpath. Streams often flow across the trail and ferns and creepers
above the forest floor. The trail continues to climb steadily for around two
hours following the Zemu Chu. It then leaves the river and makes an ascent for
about an hour and finally crossing a ridge emerges in a broad meadow with a
single ruined two storey hut which is Yabuk. As we were making our way to Yabuk
in the last one hour the weather began to break and grey clouds were funneling their
way up the valley. Around 3 PM it started to snow very lightly and this
continued through the evening. One of the porters was not well and had high
fever. Ajmal was also quite exhausted and lay down on arriving camp. The snow
continued through <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the day till around 8
PM and I dusted it off my tent. The night was possibly - 3ºC or so.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">October 31<sup>st</sup>
2014 – Rest Day at Yabuk<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The morning dawned fine and clear and the sun quickly washed away
all the snow and frost from the rhododendron shrubs and dwarf juniper. We were
at the edge of the tree line camped <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>in a
meadow which had an old dilapidated double storey <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>hut which was used as for cooking as well as
shelter for the porters. The height was close to 4000 metres and an
acclimatization day was mandatory here. We put out all our damp clothing and
sleeping bags in the welcome sunshine. After a late breakfast, Kumar and I
started up the valley to reach a high point from where the Zemu glacier as well
as the Siniolchu group would be visible. We left Yabuk at 9.50 AM on a stone
path and saw two redstarts immediately near the camp. The trail climbed gently
for around 15 minutes and then went down some steep steps before making a stiff
climb for about 45 minutes across boulders and scree slopes. As we climbed to reach
the top of the ridge Siniolchu, little Siniolchu also marked as 6538m and Simvu
came into view. We reached the top at around 11 AM and in front and to the
right saw part of Nepal Peak but Kangchenjunga was still hidden. Satisfied with
the 300 metre odd acclimatisation walk we descended to Yabuk in 40 min and met
Persis, Ajmal, Hanif and Binod coming up. They stopped 30 min short of the top
and we descended together after taking some photos. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had a good pasta lunch in the sunshine.
Clouds once again rolled up the valley from 3 PM and we were enveloped in white
out. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I spent the Spent the afternoon in
my tent reading Freshfields account of his 1899 Zemu Valley visit in Round
Kangchenjunga. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">November 1<sup>st</sup>
2014 – Yabuk to Rest Camp 4480 metres 4 to 5 hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The earlier evening the clouds lifted by 7 PM and the moon came
out through the clouds. I took some shots before going to bed. The night was
cold and clear with all the stars visible. We left at 8 AM for the Rest Camp.
In an hour and fifteen minutes we reached the pass which we had visited last
morning. The trail then crossed the ridge and in about fifteen minutes descends
to a small wooden bridge across a small stream. The trail then climbed for
about 15 min and then reached a wide meadow which is known as Sona camp about 1
hr -30 min from Yabuk. From Sona Camp the trail continued to climb gently for
about an hour until it reached a broad opening in the valley covered with white
stones which resembled a broad river bed. From this river bed the trail climbs
again across some brush, dwarf rhododendron and finally reaches a broad meadow
below Siniolchu <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>which is the Rest Camp.
The Camp is not marked but there are some broken stone ruins which are used as
a shelter for the porters.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">November 2<sup>nd</sup>
2014 Rest Camp to Green Lakes 5050 metres 3½ to 5 hrs<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">The morning was exquisite and the complete arc of peaks from
Siniolchu to Kangchenjunga including the Twins and Nepal Peak were visible. We
left late around 8.40 am as there was a lot of photography to do. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>For a change breakfast was hot puris and aloo
dum eaten outdoors with Kangchenjunga behind – an idyllic spot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is no proper trail to Green Lakes and a
guide who has been before is essential. The path leaves Rest Camp through grass
and moss and walking is difficult as your feet sinks into the brush. Within
half an hour you reach a river bed with a few streams flowing across. We passed
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>through the river bed and reached <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>a broad grassy meadow. At the end of the
meadow which is reached in about 1½ hrs from Rest Camp, the path climbs for a
bit before reaching another rocky and dry riverbed. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Follow this river bed for about 30 minutes –
at one instance it forks take the broader left hand fork which is the trail. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The path then follows another level meadow
with stones and scree. The end of the meadow reaches the Zemu glacier which is
just below and offers a fascinating view point. Take a sharp right turn at this
point and again navigate through brush / grass / and some rocky patches – the
trail is not well defined – heading now towards the end of the valley. The
Green Lake plain where tents are normally pitched is about an hour’s walk from
the Zemu glacier view point. The original Green Lake has dried up. There is
another small pool of water next to it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">November 3<sup>rd</sup>
2014 Green Lakes to Yabuk 5 – 6 hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">It was a splendid night of 2<sup>nd</sup> Nov – the low mist and clouds
cleared by 7 PM and then the moon came on the valley illuminating first Simvu
and then Kangchenjunga in a heavenly glow. I photographed until 8.30 PM. Hanif
also used my tripod and photographed. The night was very cold and even in the
bag with 2 layers it was uncomfortable – the toe warmers are a waste did not
work at all – thinking down booties may be better. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The morning was superb as well – climbed to
around 200 metres above the Green Lake plain on a very different path. Shot a
video of the whole panorama from the top – stupendous including the Zemu
glacier below. Got down by 9.40 AM slipped on the way down not serious and
started down the valley. About 45 min from Green Lakes the view opened up and I
saw both the north-east and north-west ridges of Kangchenjunga along with
Pyramid Peak and Langpo Peak on the right and Simvu and little Siniolchu 6538m.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>on the left. We reached Rest Camp at
noon and had lunch. The weather had packed up and it started to snow with a
cold wind blowing. We came down and suddenly we were in a valley encased in autumn
in colours. Red orange green rhododendron bushes dinging to the rocks, patches
of snow and a grey – green Zemu Chu thundering <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>through the valley. We reached the pass called
Yabuk Pass around 2 PM and the wind had miraculously stopped and the snow had
ended. We photographed walking down from the pass enjoying the autumn colours
and reached Yabuk at 3 PM happy to be out of the snow. Hot Chocolate and finger
chips followed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">November 4<sup>th</sup>
2014 Yabuk to Jakthang 4 hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">It was another clear and beautiful morning at Yabuk. I got up when
the sun hit the tent and after a late breakfast left Yabuk at 10 AM. The forest
was beautiful <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>lot of shooting <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>into the mountains. The forests were beautiful
and the rhododendron <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>cover extended from
the river bottom to the top of the high mountains. We reached Jakthang around 1
PM and it started raining from 3 PM. The drizzle continued through the night
and my tent was leaking. Spent part of the night trying to remove the drops of
water from the roof. The tent floor was also wet and had a tough time to keep
sleeping bag and other clothes dry. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">November 5<sup>th</sup>
2014 Jakthang <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>to Lachen 6 hrs.<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">At 4 AM the rain stopped. I came out of the tent and found the sky
heavily overcast and it was looking like more rain. We were supposed to go up
to Tallem (3 hrs.) but I decided to push the party to Lachen and get away from
the rain. We set off at 8 AM – the path was extremely wet and slippery – the
forest floor was coated with slimy moss and crossing a bridge I slipped on the
log and fell into the small stream on my backpack – my boots <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>were wet and so were my socks. Continued down
the valley photographing the ferns, moss and lichen on the forest floor. It
continued to be cloudy as we walked through the forest. Around 11.30 we reached
the Tallem bridge and photographed Persis crossing the bridge. We passed
through Tallem and descended through the forest to the river. We stopped for
lunch at the old lunch stop. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We then
started after lunch to navigate the landslide section which had it old
problems. Finally around 4 pm we reached Zema where the vehicles were waiting
for us and we managed to get into Lachen before nightfall. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">November 6<sup>th</sup>
2014 Lachen to Gangtok 6-7 hours<o:p></o:p></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;">For more information and photos on the Green Lakes trek do visit+</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/green-lakes-trek-in-north-sikkim/">https://www.southcol.com/treks-nepal/green-lakes-trek-in-north-sikkim/</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-/">https://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Green-Lakes-Trek-in-North-/</a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Forests-of-the-Zemu-Valley">https://www.sujoydas.com/Sikkim-Himalaya/The-Forests-of-the-Zemu-Valley</a></div>
Sujoy Dashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10207362961662482877noreply@blogger.com1Sikkim, India27.5329718 88.512217825.731979799999998 85.9304308 29.3339638 91.094004800000008